Alsace
What to Expect
Alsace, the enchanting borderland between France and Germany, is experiencing a natural wine revolution that challenges its centuries-old reputation for stately Rieslings and precise Grand Crus. Between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine, in storybook villages of half-timbered houses, a new generation of vignerons and cavistes is reimagining the region's wine identity. In Strasbourg's bohemian Krutenau quarter, natural wine bars occupy medieval cellars and barges on the Ill River, serving zero-sulfur Pinot Blanc and skin-contact Gewürztraminer alongside choucroute garnie. Colmar's Renaissance courtyards now hide natural wine temples where biodynamic Alsace meets Loire Cabernet Franc. Even in the hallowed Grand Cru villages like Riquewihr—where wine has flowed since 1553—ancient cellars now age natural Pinot Gris in Georgian qvevris.
Strasbourg Krutenau (The Bohemian Quarter)
The Gothic natural wine cathedral of the Krutenau. Located on Rue de Zurich, Le Purgatoire occupies a vaulted medieval space with exposed brick, candlelight, and 700+ wine references. Owner Damien curates a list challenging Alsatian conventions—skin-contact Pinot Gris, pét-nat Sylvaner, and oxidative Gewürztraminer. The "cuisine de partage" features filet de canard rôti and legendary crème brûlée à la catalane. No reservations; the terrace is the neighborhood's living room in summer.
The artisan caviste bridging tradition and rebellion. Run by a collective of winemakers, Oenosphère offers both bottle shop and standing-room tasting bar. Focus on small-scale Alsatian organic producers—Domaine Marcel Deiss, René Muré, Christian Binner—plus Loire and Italian imports. Thursday evenings feature "dégustations sauvages" (wild tastings) for €20. The mixed charcuterie plates include house-made rilettes and pungent Munster cheese from the Vosges.
The floating wine sanctuary on the Ill River. This converted barge restaurant and bar rocks gently while you drink, offering 50 wines by the glass and 1,500 references. The concept is "vin de paysage" (landscape wine) from river regions—Alsace's Ill, the Loire, Rhine, and Rhône. Menu features féra (lake fish), crayfish from Vosges streams, and traditional eel. The atmosphere is romantic with views of the cathedral spire.
The transalpine natural wine bridge. Vino Strada brings Italian passion to Alsatian precision—terracotta floors, wooden wine boxes, and fresh burrata. They champion natural Italian producers (Etna wines, Friulano, mountain Nebbiolo) alongside Alsatian winemakers using Italian methods: amphora-aged Pinot Blanc, whole-cluster Pinot Noir fermented like Barolo. The "apéro transalpine" offers €15 for wine, affettati misti, and a lesson in shared viticultural DNA.
Petite France (Historic Canals)
The natural wine lighthouse on the water. In a 16th-century former toll house overlooking the Ill River, this shop-cum-bar has been Strasbourg's natural wine embassy since 2010. The selection is uncompromising: 100% organic/biodynamic, zero tolerance for sulfites, featuring André Ostertag, Julie Beyer, Pierre Frick, and Les Vins du Clair Obscur. The "dégustation libre" concept lets you taste any bottle before buying. Cheese selection includes aged Munster from the Vosges.
The cozy natural wine nook off the beaten path. On quiet Place Saint-Nicolas-aux-Ondes, JAJA (slang for wine) offers mismatched vintage furniture, local art, and vinyl spinning French chanson or German electronica. The list is exclusively French natural wine—Alsace, Jura, Savoie, and Loire—focusing on "vins de copain" from tiny producers without websites, alongside cult favorites like Ganevat and Overnoy. Winter Sundays feature pot-au-feu.
Colmar (The Fairytale Capital)
The vegan-natural wine revolution in the Renaissance city. In a converted café on Avenue de la République, Aries is 100% vegan and 100% natural, featuring organic Alsatian producers like Domaine Marcel Deiss and René Muré. The minimalist space offers sophisticated vegan gastronomy—fermented vegetables, cashew cheeses, and seasonal tartines. Monthly "soirées nature" bring winemakers to discuss biodynamics.
The sensory explosion in the old town. A cave-à-manger near Maison des Têtes with stone walls and just 20 covers. "Assiettes gourmandes" pair local foie gras with vendange tardive Gewürztraminer, or wild boar terrine with natural Pinot Noir. The wine list changes weekly featuring Georgian amber wines, Catalan Cava, and forgotten Alsatian varieties like Auxerrois. No website—just word-of-mouth.
The rooftop natural wine hideaway. Hidden above a traditional restaurant, this rooftop terrace offers 360° views of Colmar's multicolored medieval rooftops and the Vosges Mountains. The list focuses on "vins de hauteur"—crisp Alsatian Rieslings from steep slopes, Savoie Jacquère, and Jura wines. The "aperitivo alsacien" features flammekueche, pretzels with Munster, and Crémant d'Alsace method ancestrale.
The Wine Villages (Riquewihr & Grand Crus)
The 1557 cellar where time stands still. In Riquewihr's walled medieval village, the Klack family has made wine since 1628 in a stone vault dating from 1557. Current winemaker Daniel steers the estate toward biodynamics while maintaining tradition. The cellar contains the world's oldest barrels still holding wine (100-130 years old, Guinness recognized). Specializes in "vins de garde naturels"—Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling spanning 20 years of vintages.
The apostle of complantation and terroir. In Bergheim, Mathieu and Jean-Michel Deiss fight for wines expressing terroir rather than grape variety. They champion "complantation" (multiple varieties in one vineyard), biodynamics, agroforestry, and extremely low yields. Their Grand Cru Schoenenbourg "Altenberg" is a masterclass in complexity—a field blend co-fermented in old oak, changing every five minutes in the glass.
The Burgundian-Alsatian fusion biodynamic project. The Trapet family—Burgundian royalty from Gevrey-Chambertin since 1859—met Alsatian viticulture in 2003. Run by Pierre and Louis Trapet, they apply Burgundian precision to Grand Cru Schoenenbourg with biodynamic certification (since 2007), high-density plantings (10,000 vines/hectare), and horse-drawn plowing. They offer "dégustations comparatives" comparing Alsatian and Burgundian wines.
