Donostia / San Sebastián
Wine Bars and Tapas Bars - Pintxo
What to Expect
San Sebastian (Donostia) is the undisputed pintxos capital of the world, with more Michelin stars per capita than any other city. But beyond the traditional gildas and txuleta steaks, a natural wine revolution is taking root. From Parte Vieja's historic taverns to Gros' hipster surf scene, expect Txakoli poured from height, skin-contact Txuri Urdina, and zero-sulfite Garnacha from the mountains. The ritual here is txikiteo—bar-hopping with one pintxo and one drink at each stop.
Parte Vieja (Old Town)
The natural wine hideout in the heart of the Old Town. This is San Sebastian's temple to natural, ecological, and biodynamic wines—a carefully curated selection from small producers who prioritize sustainability and biodiversity. Run by José, the space is original and creative, offering wines made with minimal intervention that truly reflect their terroir. The atmosphere is intimate and educational; they regularly host tastings and events for those wanting to dive deep into the world of natural wine. It's a sanctuary away from the bustling pintxos bars, where you can discover rare bottles from Basque Country and beyond. The selection changes frequently based on what's available from their network of small-scale winemakers.
The most gourmet pintxos bar in San Sebastian and the place where you "can't order wrong." Hidden on a narrow street in Parte Vieja, this is where local chefs eat. Everything is made to order—not grabbed from the counter—featuring modern Basque cuisine that respects tradition while pushing boundaries. The octopus is legendary, the pig's ear is surprisingly divine, and the beef cheek melts in your mouth. They offer different portion sizes depending on your group size, making it perfect for sharing. The wine list includes natural and low-intervention options alongside classic Riojas and Txakolis. It's always packed, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. The energy is high, the food is exceptional, and this spot alone is worth the trip to Donostia.
The grand dame of San Sebastian pintxos and quite possibly the most Instagrammed food in the city. Ganbara is famous for its seasonal wild mushrooms grilled with egg yolk (hongos a la plancha)—at nearly €20 for a small ration, it's expensive but utterly perfect. The mushrooms have a rich, meaty texture, and the raw egg yolk brings the dish together in silky harmony. Also legendary are the kokotxas (hake throats) gently poached with garlic and olive oil, and the mini-croissants stuffed with jamón de Jabugo. The bar is always crowded with tourists and locals, but the quality justifies the wait. Stacked plates of seasonal ingredients sit on the counter waiting to be cooked. Yes, it's pricier than other spots, but as one of the city's most famous establishments, it's essential for understanding San Sebastian's pintxos culture.
The Valhalla of fresh anchovy dishes. This award-winning bar is a haven for anchoas (anchovies) and txangurro (spider crab). If you love anchovies, this is your paradise—if you don't, skip it. The bar offers multiple renditions of salt-cured anchovies on thick slices of baguette with black olives, piquillo peppers, and aioli. The "Gilda" (the city's most famous pintxo) was invented nearby, but Txepetxa elevates it with premium ingredients. The atmosphere is no-frills and traditional, with marble countertops and standing room only. Order a glass of Txakoli (the local slightly sparkling white wine poured from height) with your anchovy toast. It's a flavor bomb of salty, fishy, vinegary perfection that locals have been enjoying for generations. Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz lists it as one of his favorites.
Don't let the name fool you—this busy haven for food lovers is one of the best pintxos bars in the Old Town. The specialty is grilled foie gras toast, but the real stars are the gilda (the original pintxo of pepper, olive, and anchovy skewer) and the txistorra (smoked paprika sausage). The txipirón plancha (grilled baby squid) on a bed of parsley-garlic sauce with aged balsamic vinegar from Modena is a revelation—tender, flavorful, and perfectly sauced. The atmosphere is buzzy and lively, with a long counter packed with colorful pintxos. It's the kind of place where you order one or two dishes, a zurito (small beer) or Txakoli, and then move to the next spot. The curried sea urchin cream is another standout for adventurous eaters. Legend says the gilda was invented in 1946 at nearby Casa Vallés.
The pintxos that feel like a hug for the soul. Located on the same street as La Cuchara, Borda Berri offers hearty, comforting dishes that warm you from the inside out. The signature is orzo "risotto" with local Idiazabal cheese—a unique Basque take on Italian rice that uses pasta instead. The rich beef cheeks (carrillera) are braised until they melt in your mouth, and the portions are generous. Adventurous eaters should try the pig ears (oreja)—soft, tasty slabs of meat that are surprisingly delicious. The menu changes seasonally based on what's available, ensuring everything is fresh and local. The crowd is always pumping, creating a warm, convivial atmosphere perfect for rainy San Sebastian days. It's less refined than Ganbara but more approachable, making it a local favorite for substantial, satisfying bites.
The modern pintxos laboratory where presentation meets innovation. Zeruko specializes in avant-garde pintxos that look as good as they taste—smoking cod arrives at your table on mini grills, allowing you to cook it yourself. The kokotxas (hake throats) on skewers over hot grills with test tube sauces are interactive theater. The bar counter groans under the weight of colorful, elaborate creations that push the boundaries of traditional pintxos. While some purists prefer classic bars, Zeruko represents the evolution of Basque cuisine—technique-forward but rooted in quality ingredients. The sea urchin with avocado and goat cheese with foie gras and honey are standout combinations. Arrive right when it opens (12:30 PM) to avoid crowds. It's slightly more expensive than traditional spots but offers an experience you won't forget.
The cool kids' playground run by young restaurateurs who've worked in the city's best kitchens. A Fuego Negro (meaning "Black Fire") takes modern pintxos to the next level with creative presentations and Basque craft beers on tap. The razor clams with burrata are a revelation—surf and turf reimagined—and the variety of local brews makes this a favorite among younger locals. The space is relaxed and chilled-out, with black decor and contemporary vibes that offer a respite from traditional taverns. The "taco talo" (squid on corn flatbread with kimchi) represents the global influence on Basque cuisine. It's less touristy than nearby spots but just as delicious, making it perfect for those seeking authentic innovation. Closed Mondays; open evenings Tuesday-Friday and all day weekends.
The birthplace of Basque cheesecake. This unassuming bar is world-famous for creating the "burnt" Basque cheesecake—creamy, caramelized on top, and oozing in the center. But La Viña is more than dessert; their tortilla de patatas (Spanish potato omelet) is legendary, though it sells out instantly—arrive at 10:30 AM sharp when they open. The bar also serves excellent txuleta (T-bone steak) and traditional pintxos. The space is tiny and always packed, but the cheesecake alone is worth the pilgrimage. The recipe has been copied globally, but nothing beats the original. Pair your cheesecake with a glass of sweet wine or digestif. It's become so popular that some locals avoid it, but food tourists can't miss the origin of this now-iconic dessert. Open 10:30 AM-5 PM and 6:30 PM-midnight, closed Mondays.
Gros (Surf & Hipster)
The riverside temple of natural wine and seasonal cooking. Overlooking the Urumea River and Zurriola Beach (San Sebastian's surf spot), MUKA is run by two chefs from Mugaritz (one of the world's best restaurants) who are also olive oil producers and natural wine fanatics. The menu reflects their produce-worshipping philosophy: less-is-more dishes like anchovies in emulsified lemon garum, paper-thin crystal peppers, and grilled baby leeks kissed by smoke. The grill is central to the kitchen, threading through everything from octopus to leeks. The natural wine list is exceptional, curated by owners who truly understand minimal intervention. The terrace offers Belle Époque architecture views while you drink skin-contact Txuri Urdina. It's our favorite seasonal menu in the city—sophisticated but never stuffy. Book ahead; this is where the food crowd gathers.
The local favorite for wood-fired peppers and octopus. Located in the Gros neighborhood (away from Old Town tourist crowds), this is where surfers fuel up after hitting Zurriola Beach. The pimientos asados leña (wood-roasted peppers) smothered in garlic and olive oil are genuinely some of the best plates in the entire city—smoky, sweet, and deeply flavorful. The pulpo a la brasa (grilled octopus) on paprika-infused mashed potato is tender and perfectly charred. Also excellent is the carne cocida con tomate (pulled beef in tomato sauce)—hearty and comforting. The atmosphere is buzzy and local, with reasonable prices and a cool, surf-vibe energy. It's a stone's throw from the Old Town but feels worlds away from the tourist trail. Perfect for experiencing how locals actually eat.
The family institution since 1950 famous for the Itxaso pintxo. This bright, family-owned bar (3rd generation now) is worth leaving the Old Town to discover. The signature is a crumbly, buttery pastry filled with monkfish in txakoli and leek cream, topped with crispy fried leeks—like a sophisticated wedding canapé. The atmosphere is welcoming and distinctly local, with none of the tourist crush you'll find in Parte Vieja. Opened in 1950, it's survived by evolving while respecting tradition. The wine list includes local Txakoli and Rioja, and the bar offers a range of both traditional and creative pintxos. It's the perfect example of why you should explore Gros—authenticity, quality, and space to breathe. The family pride is palpable in every dish.
Centro & Amara (Local & Relaxed)
The oldest pintxos bar in San Sebastian (1928) and home of the legendary Delicia. This historic bar is one of the few places that feels genuinely untouched by time, serving locals since 1928. The must-order is the "Delicia"—a slice of bread topped with two thin slices of hard-boiled egg, salt-cured anchovy, finely chopped onion and garlic vinaigrette, finished with a dash of Worcestershire sauce. It's a flavor explosion that represents Basque simplicity at its finest. Unlike the cramped Old Town bars, La Espiga is spacious and relaxed—you can actually sit down and enjoy your food without fighting crowds. The space feels more like a traditional tavern than a tourist hotspot. It's the perfect spot to escape the madness of Parte Vieja while eating history. Every bite is a solid 10/10.
The prawn brochette perfectionists. This classic little bar is where locals go for the definitive brocheta de gambas—a skewer loaded with five perfectly cooked prawns, bright vinegary pepper sauce, all served on bread. The technique is simple but flawless: pull the skewer before you bite. While waiting for a table at nearby Bar Nestor, drop in here for the ultimate seafood snack. The bar is tiny and traditional, with a marble counter and standing room, but the prawns are consistently rated the best in the city. It's the kind of place where the simplicity of execution makes you realize why Basque cuisine is revered. Order one brocheta, a glass of Txakoli, and then move to your next destination—that's the txikiteo way.
The txuleta steak and tortilla legend. This isn't strictly a pintxos bar—it's a temple to two dishes: the famous tortilla (Spanish omelet) and massive txuleta (T-bone steak). The tortilla is legendary and sells out instantly at 1 PM and 8 PM daily—you must arrive two hours early to reserve a slice. The txuleta runs about €60/kg and can easily feed four people, served with tomato salad and pimientos de Padrón. The steak is huge, pink, and flavored by the fat running along the edge. After your meal, say yes to the digestif shot—espresso, condensed milk, rum/whisky, and cinnamon. It's not a place for a quick snack; it's a destination. The atmosphere is lively and chaotic, with shared tables and a sense of occasion. Essential for understanding Basque meat culture.
Boulevard & Alameda
The natural wine oasis from the pintxos madness. Run by Cynthia and Santi since 2018, Arenales is an escape from the standing-room-only crush of the Old Town. Located on the Boulevard just steps from Parte Vieja, this small restaurant-bar specializes in "generic modern" cuisine that actually thrills—local cheese cream over roasted carrots with torn mint, blood sausage brioche with romaine, and cecina with olive oil and almonds. But the real star is the wine: what started as a small selection has evolved into a 14-page list with only three conventional wines. The rest is natural, organic, and biodynamic from small producers, often sourced directly from wineries so rare that international collectors message them asking if they ship. The owners let you taste before buying, and the service is impeccable. It's the best place in the city for natural wine discovery without pretension.
The oldest wine shop in San Sebastian for aged vintages. Established as the city's premier wine emporium, Vinos Ezeiza is where serious collectors and sommeliers shop for old vintage Spanish wines. They specialize in aged Riojas, rare sherries, and hard-to-find bottles from traditional producers. The staff has encyclopedic knowledge and can guide you to exceptional bottles from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. While it's primarily a shop for purchasing bottles to go, the experience of browsing their cellar is worth the visit for any wine lover. They stock natural and low-intervention wines alongside classic appellations. If you're looking for a special bottle to bring home or want to understand Spanish wine history, this is the place. The wooden shelves and old-world atmosphere make it feel like stepping into a vinous time capsule.
The family-owned gem for nearly 100 years. Located in the heart of Parte Vieja, this historic wine shop has been family-owned for almost a century. Ainhoa, the current owner, runs the shop with passion and deep knowledge. They specialize in traditional Basque wines—Txakoli, Rioja, and local natural wines—alongside their famous homemade patxarán (sloe berry liqueur). The shop is tiny but packed with carefully selected bottles, and the staff takes time to explain each wine's story. It's the perfect spot to pick up bottles for a picnic on La Concha beach or to find gifts for wine-loving friends back home. The historic wooden interior and personal service make it stand out from commercial wine shops. They know their regulars by name and treat visitors like old friends.
The meat lover's paradise and solomillo specialists. Gandarias is always rammed with people for good reason—their solomillo (seared sirloin steak pintxo) with green pepper and sea salt is legendary. Also excellent are the duck breast brochettes and house-made croquettes. The atmosphere is lively and bustling, with a long counter packed with tempting cold pintxos and hot dishes made to order. They also have a full restaurant upstairs if you want a sit-down meal featuring their famous T-bone steak (book ahead). The txangurro (spider crab) is another standout—fresh, sweet, and perfectly prepared. It's traditional but executed flawlessly, drawing both tourists and locals. Yes, you might end up ordering a plateful instead of just one or two, and that's perfectly acceptable here. The energy is infectious.
