Wine from the Ancient Village of Borc Dodòn
Denis Montanar is a fourth-generation winemaker in Villa Vicentina, a small village in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy, whose wines have become synonymous with the authentic, terroir-driven expression of this historically rich and culturally complex wine region. [^155^] [^157^] Inheriting his family's agricultural legacy — four generations of farmers tending fields of soybeans, spelt, wheat, and grapes — Denis began producing wine in 1989 after taking over his grandfather's vineyards. [^155^] By 1995, he officially established the Azienda Agricola Denis Montanar winery, and within a few years had won over consumers for the authenticity of his wines. [^157^] Since 1996, Denis has adhered to organic farming practices, banning any treatment with chemical compounds or synthetic substances in the vineyard. [^157^] In the cellar, he employs spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, long macerations in open vats of fiberglass or wood, no addition of selected yeasts, no clarification, and no filtration. [^157^] The estate's name — Borc Dodòn — is the ancient village around which the winery is developed, an all-round rural project rooted in the history of the territory. [^157^]
From Four Generations of Farmers to a Terroir-Driven Vision
The Denis Montanar farm is located in Villa Vicentina, in the province of Udine in southeastern Friuli — a region where the Adriatic Sea meets the Julian Alps, creating a unique microclimate of warm sea breezes and cool mountain air. [^155^] [^157^] Four generations of farmers before Denis dedicated themselves to tending the fields between soybeans, spelt, wheat, and grapes. This agricultural heritage is not merely a backstory; it is the foundation of Denis's philosophy. He grew up understanding that the land must be respected, that the seasons dictate the work, and that quality comes from patience rather than shortcuts.
In 1989, Denis inherited the vineyards from his grandfather and rented additional surrounding vineyards, starting his first winery production. [^157^] He was not a newcomer to agriculture — he had been working the land since childhood — but winemaking represented a new chapter, a way to transform the family's raw material into something that could travel, that could tell the story of Borc Dodòn to the world. By 1995, the winery officially took the name Denis Montanar, and within a few years, the authenticity of his wines had won over a growing circle of devoted drinkers. [^157^]
The name Borc Dodòn — the ancient village around which the winery is developed — is more than a brand. It is a declaration of rootedness, an all-round rural project that draws its values from the history of the territory. [^157^] Denis's wines are named with the "Cru" that comes from the long-time name of the area, making each bottle a "Territorial Brand" — a wine that cannot be separated from the place that produced it. [^165^] This approach is antithetical to the globalised wine industry, where grapes are sourced from anonymous vineyards and wines are designed by marketing teams. For Denis, the wine is the territory, and the territory is the wine.
Today, the Borc Dodòn project has expanded to encompass many hectares under cultivation, with more than 10 hectares planted with vines. [^157^] The estate produces approximately 20,000 bottles per year — a small, focused output that allows Denis to maintain hands-on control of every stage of production. [^157^] He is a member of RAW WINE, the global community of organic, biodynamic, and natural wine producers, and his wines are listed on Raisin, the natural wine discovery platform. [^161^] [^168^]
"Denis Montanar wines are unique: they are named with the 'Cru' that comes from the long-time name of the area making each bottle a 'Territorial Brand'."
— Have & Meyer
Organic Since 1996, Renaissance du Terroir & Indigenous Varieties
Since 1996, Denis Montanar has adhered to organic farming practices and the "Renaissance du Terroir" protocol — a rigorous standard that bans any treatment with chemical compounds or synthetic substances in the vineyard. [^157^] This was not a marketing decision but a philosophical one. Denis believes that the soil, the vines, and the ecosystem must be allowed to function as nature intended, without the artificial interventions that have become standard in conventional viticulture.
The estate spans approximately 10.5 hectares, with vineyards planted on sandy, clay-rich soils that benefit from the proximity to the Adriatic Sea. [^155^] The sea moderates temperature, providing warm breezes that help ripen grapes while preserving acidity. The soils are a mix of sand and clay — the sand ensuring good drainage, the clay providing water retention and mineral richness. This combination is ideal for the indigenous varieties that Denis favours, allowing them to develop full flavour while maintaining the freshness and structure that define Friulian wine.
Denis cultivates a variety of indigenous and historical grape varieties, including Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Tocai Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. [^155^] [^157^] The focus is on varieties that have grown in this region for centuries — grapes that have adapted to the local climate, soil, and culture. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, with its deep colour and peppery spice, is the signature red of Friuli. Tocai Friulano (now simply Friulano) is the quintessential white — mineral, almond-scented, and utterly distinctive. Verduzzo Friulano adds a honeyed, slightly tannic dimension that is unique to this corner of Italy.
The farming is hands-on and meticulous. Denis tends his vines with the same care that his grandfather did, observing the seasons, responding to the weather, and making decisions based on experience rather than algorithms. The result is a vineyard that is healthy, balanced, and expressive — a living ecosystem that produces grapes of genuine character and complexity.
Full organic farming since 1996, adhering to the "Renaissance du Terroir" protocol. No synthetic chemicals, no artificial fertilisers, no shortcuts. [^157^]
Vineyards on sandy, clay-rich soils near the Adriatic Sea. Good drainage from sand, water retention and minerals from clay. Ideal for indigenous varieties. [^155^]
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Tocai Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano, Pinot Bianco, plus Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Historical grapes of Friuli. [^155^] [^157^]
An all-round rural project rooted in the history of the territory. Wines named with the ancient "Cru" names of the area — each bottle a Territorial Brand. [^157^] [^165^]
Spontaneous Fermentation, Long Macerations & No Filtration
Denis Montanar's winemaking is characterised by minimal intervention and maximum respect for the raw material. In the cellar, he employs spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts — no selected yeasts, no enzymes, no artificial aids. [^157^] The grapes are destemmed and fermented in open vats of fiberglass or wood, with macerations that vary in length depending on the variety and the vintage. [^157^] For the white wines, maceration may be brief or extended — the latter creating the orange wines for which Denis has become known. For the reds, the skins remain in contact with the juice for as long as necessary to extract colour, tannin, and flavour, without over-extraction or harshness.
There is no clarification and no filtration. [^157^] Denis believes that removing the natural sediments and proteins from wine strips it of its character, its texture, and its ability to age. The wines are bottled with their natural cloudiness, their living yeast, and their full complement of polyphenols. This approach demands patience from the drinker — the wines may throw a sediment, they may evolve unpredictably in the bottle — but it rewards with authenticity and depth.
Aging takes place in steel tanks, cement, or large wooden barrels, depending on the wine's style and structure. [^155^] The whites — Friulano, Verduzzo, Pinot Bianco — are typically aged in steel or cement to preserve their freshness and minerality. The reds — Refosco, Merlot, Cabernet Franc — may see time in large wooden barrels, which rounds their tannins and adds complexity without masking the fruit. The orange wines, made with extended skin contact, are aged in a combination of vessels to develop their unique texture and savoury depth.
The result is a range of wines that are elegant, authentic, and unmistakably of Friuli. They are not wines that shout; they are wines that whisper, that reveal themselves gradually, that demand attention and repay it with layers of flavour and a sense of place that is rare in the modern wine world. Denis's specialities include orange wine — a style that has become increasingly associated with his name — but his entire range, from the freshest white to the most structured red, carries the same signature: purity, terroir, and time. [^157^]
San-Drigo Friulano — "Laser Sharp, Floral, Earthy and Herbal"
The San-Drigo Friulano is Denis Montanar's most celebrated white wine — a cuvée that captures everything that makes Friulano one of Italy's greatest indigenous white grapes. [^162^] [^166^]
Named after the ancient Cru of San-Drigo, the wine is made from 100% Tocai Friulano (now simply Friulano) grown on the sandy, clay-rich soils of Villa Vicentina. The grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, and spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts. After fermentation, the wine is aged in steel tanks for 8 months and bottled unfiltered with minimal sulfur. [^164^]
In the glass, it is laser sharp, floral, earthy, and herbal all at once — heavy on the citrus peel that balances more textured tropical notes, white flowers, and an unexpected mineral salinity from the Adriatic proximity. The palate is medium-bodied with crushed pear, citrus pith, and a long, almond-scented finish that is the hallmark of great Friulano. It is a wine of precision and poetry — a testament to Denis's belief that the wine must express the territory, not the winemaker's ego. ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$42.
The Denis Montanar Range
Denis Montanar produces approximately 20,000 bottles per year from his 10.5 hectares of organically farmed vineyards in Villa Vicentina, Friuli Venezia Giulia. [^157^] All wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, and bottled with minimal sulfur. The portfolio is built around indigenous Friulian varieties and the ancient Cru names of the Borc Dodòn territory. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.