The Savagnin Empire
Domaine de la Pinte is one of the largest and most historically significant estates in the Jura — a 34-hectare biodynamic domaine in Arbois and Pupillin that has been at the forefront of organic and natural winemaking since long before it became fashionable. Founded in 1953 by Roger Martin at the lieu-dit "La Pinte à la Capitaine" on the blue marls of the Lias, the estate was originally planted with 14 hectares of Savagnin — then the largest single planting of the variety in the region. In 1955, Roger undertook the monumental task of constructing three vaulted cellars of cut stone, each 70 metres long, to accommodate the seven-year ageing required for Vin Jaune. Today, his son Pierre Martin continues this legacy, having expanded the estate to 34 hectares: 17 of Savagnin, 6 of Chardonnay, 7 of Poulsard, 2 of Trousseau, and 2 of Pinot Noir. In 1999, the estate made the brave and prescient choice to convert entirely to organic viticulture. By 2009, they had progressed to full biodynamic farming, achieving Demeter certification. The estate's commitment to ecological agriculture is total: shallow ploughing that preserves soil structure rather than destroying it, compost and manure to encourage microbial harmony, and biodynamic preparations that bring life to the hard marl soils. In the cellar, indigenous yeasts — encouraged by the vineyard's healthy microbiome — drive all fermentations. Sulfur is limited and never systematic: a small amount may be added to the juice before fermentation, rarely during ageing, and sometimes not at all. The wines are aged on fine lees, extracted according to the lunar calendar, and transferred by gravity wherever possible. Managed day-to-day by estate manager Samuel Berger, with vinification and exports overseen by Emmanuelle Goydavin, Domaine de la Pinte has reached a level of quality across its entire range that is both deeply satisfying and remarkably affordable — a testament to the idea that scale and integrity are not mutually exclusive.
Roger's Vision, Pierre's Expansion
Domaine de la Pinte was founded in 1953 by Roger Martin in the lieu-dit "La Pinte à la Capitaine," on the blue marls of the Lias formation that stretches from Arbois to Château-Chalon. At 400 metres altitude, this was prime Savagnin territory, and Roger planted 14 hectares of the variety — making it the largest Savagnin domain in the Jura at the time. But Roger was not merely a farmer; he was a builder with foresight. In 1955, he began constructing three enormous vaulted cellars of cut stone, each 70 metres in length. The investment was necessary because Vin Jaune — the region's iconic wine — requires a minimum of seven years of oxidative ageing under flor before release. Roger needed space for seven successive harvests [^82^][^84^].
Today, Roger's son Pierre Martin carries the torch, having expanded the estate from its original 14 hectares to 34 hectares spread across Arbois and Pupillin. The planting is diverse: 17 hectares of Savagnin (still the estate's signature), 6 of Chardonnay, 7 of Poulsard, 2 of Trousseau, and 2 of Pinot Noir. The expansion into Pupillin brought lighter, chalk-clay soils ideal for Chardonnay, while the original Arbois parcels on blue Lias marl remain the heart of the Savagnin and red wine programme. The estate has long been managed with outside expertise: Bruno Ciofi oversaw operations from 2009 to 2015, followed by Samuel Berger, who continues as estate manager today. Emmanuelle Goydavin handles vinification, maturation, and exports [^84^][^86^].
The estate's environmental commitment began early and deepened over time. Organic conversion started in 1999 — a brave choice in an era when chemical agriculture dominated the Jura. By 2009, the estate had progressed to full biodynamic farming, achieving Demeter certification. This was not a marketing decision but a philosophical one: Roger and Pierre believed that healthy soil produces healthy grapes, and that the hard marl soils of the Jura needed life, not chemistry, to reveal their potential. The estate has since become a model for large-scale biodynamic viticulture in a challenging climate [^82^][^85^].
"The discovery of a good wine is increasingly better for mankind than the discovery of a new star."
— Leonardo da Vinci
Arbois & Pupillin, Two Terroirs, One Philosophy
The estate's 34 hectares are divided between two distinct Jura terroirs. In Arbois, the original "La Pinte à la Capitaine" parcels sit on the blue marls of the Lias — the same formation that defines Château-Chalon's noblest sites. These deep, iridescent marls and clay-siliceous compact soils are ideal for Savagnin and the Jura's native red varieties. The blue marl's high limestone content gives the wines a distinctive mineral tension and saline backbone, while the clay provides structure and ageing potential. The Savagnin vines here average 50 years of age, with some parcels dating back to Roger's original plantings [^82^][^84^].
In Pupillin, the soils shift to lighter, chalk-clay formations at lower altitudes on the hillsides. This is where the estate's 6 hectares of Chardonnay thrive, producing whites of freshness and approachability that complement the more structured Arbois wines. The Pupillin microclimate is slightly warmer and more sheltered, allowing Chardonnay to achieve full phenolic ripeness while maintaining the Jura's signature acidity. The combination of the two terroirs gives the estate a breadth of expression that smaller domaines cannot match [^84^][^86^].
Farming is strictly biodynamic (Demeter certified), with no synthetic chemicals, no herbicides, and no heavy machinery. Shallow ploughing preserves soil structure and encourages harmony between microorganisms, minerals, trace elements, and micro-fauna. Compost and manure replace chemical fertilisers, increasing microbial activity and humus formation in the hard marl soils. The biodynamic approach also encourages the development of indigenous yeasts on the grape skins — yeasts that will later drive fermentation in the cellar. All vineyard work follows lunar cycles, and harvest is manual into small crates. This is large-scale farming with small-scale attention [^82^][^86^].
The Lias formation is the oldest and most limestone-rich of the Jura's geological layers. The blue marls here are deep, iridescent, and compact — soils that force vines to struggle and produce concentrated fruit. The high calcium content gives Savagnin and red wines a distinctive mineral tension and saline backbone. This is where the estate's oldest vines grow, including the original Savagnin plantings from 1953.
The Pupillin parcels sit on lighter, chalk-clay soils that are more forgiving than the Arbois marls. This terroir is ideal for Chardonnay, providing the freshness and fruit expression that balance the estate's more structured wines. The slightly warmer microclimate and better drainage allow for consistent ripening, making Pupillin a reliable source of quality white wine in challenging vintages.
Roger Martin's 1955 construction of three 70-metre vaulted cellars of cut stone was a visionary investment. Designed to hold seven successive vintages of Vin Jaune — the legal minimum ageing period — these cellars are the spiritual and practical heart of the estate. Their stone construction provides natural temperature stability and the dry, ventilated conditions necessary for the development of flor yeast. They remain in use today, a testament to Roger's foresight.
Since achieving Demeter certification in 2009, the estate has followed strict biodynamic protocols. Herbal teas, compost preparations, and fermented plant extracts replace conventional treatments. All vineyard work — pruning, treatments, harvest — is timed to lunar phases. The goal is not merely to avoid chemicals but to actively enliven the soil, encouraging the biodiversity and microbial health that make natural winemaking possible.
Gravity, Lees & Lunar Rhythms
Domaine de la Pinte's cellar philosophy is a natural extension of its biodynamic farming: let the vineyard speak, and intervene only when necessary. All fermentations are carried out by indigenous yeasts — the same yeasts that develop naturally on the grape skins thanks to the estate's healthy vineyard microbiome. No selected yeasts, no enzymes, no artificial additives. The fermentation vessels are diverse: barriques, demi-muids, and large foudres, chosen according to the grape variety and the desired expression. Fermentation durations vary, allowing each wine to find its own rhythm [^82^][^84^].
The wines are aged on fine lees throughout their maturation, which provides natural protection against oxidation and bacterial spoilage. This lees contact is a form of natural preservative that reduces the need for sulfur — a key principle of the estate's low-intervention approach. Racking and other cellar operations are performed according to the lunar calendar, following biodynamic principles that extend from vineyard to bottle. Gravity is used for wine transfers wherever possible, minimising the disturbance that pumping can cause [^82^][^86^].
Sulfur is used with extreme restraint and never as a matter of course. A small amount may be added to the juice before fermentation begins, primarily to stabilise the must and prevent early oxidation. Occasionally, a tiny addition is made during ageing, but often none is needed at all — the combination of healthy fruit, indigenous yeasts, and lees ageing provides sufficient natural protection. The wines are not fined or filtered, preserving their natural texture and the living quality that comes from minimal manipulation [^82^].
The estate produces the full spectrum of classic Jura wines: Vin Jaune from the Savagnin, oxidative and ouillé whites, delicate reds from Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir, and the sweet Vin de Paille. The quality has varied in the past, as the estate navigated the transition to organic and biodynamic farming, but recent years have seen a consistent rise in quality across the entire range. Today, Domaine de la Pinte offers some of the best value in the Jura — wines of authenticity and terroir expression at prices that remain accessible [^84^].
Le Nez dans le Vert — The Organic Wine Fair
In March 2011, Domaine de la Pinte hosted the first edition of "Le Nez dans le Vert" — a gathering of 24 organic and biodynamic Jura producers that has since become a landmark event in the region's natural wine calendar. Held in the estate's monumental cellars, the fair drew nearly 1,000 visitors on its consumer day, with parking stretching down the long access road. The atmosphere was serious but relaxed, with a self-service organic lunch that almost managed to feed everyone. On the trade day, sommeliers, wine shop owners, and press arrived from surprisingly long distances. The event showcased the estate's role not just as a producer but as a community hub — a place where the Jura's organic movement could gather, share, and grow. Stéphane Tissot, Domaine Ganevat, Domaine Pignier, and even the elusive Pierre Overnoy/Emmanuel Houillon were among the participants. For Domaine de la Pinte, it was confirmation that their early commitment to organic farming had helped catalyse a regional transformation.
Scale With Soul
What sets Domaine de la Pinte apart in the Jura's crowded landscape of small, artisanal producers is its ability to combine scale with integrity. At 34 hectares, it is one of the largest biodynamic estates in the region — yet it maintains the attention to detail and commitment to natural methods that define the best small domaines. This is not industrial organic farming; it is biodynamic viticulture practised with patience and precision across a significant landholding. The result is a range of wines that are both authentic and affordable — a rare combination in today's natural wine market [^84^][^86^].
The estate's influence extends beyond its own bottles. By hosting "Le Nez dans le Vert" and participating in the Jura's organic movement from its earliest days, Domaine de la Pinte has helped create the conditions for the region's current reputation as a hub of natural winemaking. The estate proves that large-scale biodynamics is possible in a challenging climate, and that the Jura's unique terroirs can produce wines of distinction without chemical intervention. As exports grow and international attention increases, the estate remains grounded in its original mission: to produce honest wines that reflect the land they come from [^84^][^85^].
Under Samuel Berger's management and Emmanuelle Goydavin's winemaking, the estate continues to evolve. New cuvées have been introduced, quality has stabilised at a high level, and the range now offers something for every Jura enthusiast — from the iconic Vin Jaune to fresh, approachable Chardonnays and the ethereal reds that define the region. The future is focused on constant refinement: better vineyard work, gentler cellar handling, and continued adherence to the biodynamic principles that have guided the estate since 1999. Domaine de la Pinte is proof that the Jura's past and future can coexist — Roger's 1953 vision and Pierre's 21st-century biodynamics, side by side in the same glass [^84^].
"The whole range has now reached a really pleasing level, all whilst keeping prices attainable."
— iDealwine
The Domaine de la Pinte Range
All wines are farmed biodynamically (Demeter certified since 2009), hand-harvested, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged on fine lees. Sulfur is limited and not systematic — a small amount may be added before fermentation, rarely during ageing, and sometimes not at all. The wines are not fined or filtered. Gravity is used for transfers where possible, and all cellar operations follow lunar cycles. The range covers all classic Jura styles, with a particular emphasis on Savagnin and Vin Jaune [^82^][^84^].