Soft & Fuzzy Orange

Paolo Foppiani is not a newcomer to the Val Trebbia — he is the inheritor of a bond that stretches back approximately 150 years. The Foppiani family has owned the agricultural property in the locality of Fognano, near Bobbio, for generations. Bobbio itself is a town of extraordinary historical resonance — known as the "City of the Dolcetto" and home to the ancient Abbey of San Colombano, a center of learning and culture since the 7th century. The Val Trebbia is one of the most beautiful valleys in Italy, immortalized by Ernest Hemingway, who called it "the most beautiful valley in the world." It is in this landscape, between the medieval towers of Bobbio and the winding turquoise river, that Paolo tends his family's vines.

The estate is modest in scale but vast in history. The total property spans 110 hectares, with 3 hectares planted to vine (some sources indicate up to 7 hectares of vineyards across the property). Paolo took up the mantle of winemaker with a clear vision: to transform the family's agricultural legacy into natural wines that speak honestly of their place. He did not do this alone. His friendship and collaboration with Giulio Armani — the legendary winemaker of La Stoppa and Denavolo — has been transformative. Giulio serves as Paolo's enological consultant, bringing decades of experience in extended skin-contact white winemaking, spontaneous fermentation, and zero-sulfur philosophy to the Fognano cellar. This mentorship is visible in every bottle: the Vino di Fognano Bianco is made with Giulio's direct involvement, a collaboration between two generations of Val Trebbia winemakers.

Paolo is a quiet, dedicated farmer — not a loud evangelist for natural wine, but a practitioner who lets his wines speak. The vineyard and cellar are both certified organic by ICEA, a rigorous Italian certification body. The farming is manual, the treatments limited to copper and sulfur, the harvest entirely by hand. In the cellar, the philosophy is one of absolute minimal intervention: indigenous yeasts, no temperature control, no enzymes, no additives, no filtration, and zero added sulfites. The result is a portfolio of wines that are alive, hazy, and gently expressive — wines that feel "soft and fuzzy" rather than harsh or aggressively tannic. This is skin-contact wine without the edges, orange wine with a gentle soul.

The Fognano estate sits in a landscape of rare beauty. The vineyards are surrounded by woods, meadows, and the rolling hills that define the Val Trebbia. The property includes not only vines but also the broader agricultural heritage of the family — a working landscape that has sustained the Foppiani family for a century and a half. Paolo's work is a continuation of this legacy, but also a reinvention: where his ancestors may have sold grapes or made wine for local consumption, Paolo crafts wines that travel the world, finding their way to natural wine bars in Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo. Yet the spirit remains local, rooted, and deeply connected to the land that has always been his.

At Fognano, the cellar philosophy is one of absolute minimal intervention — not as a posture, but as a practice rooted in organic certification, guided by Giulio Armani's mentorship, and refined by Paolo's own quiet dedication. All wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts only — no commercial strains, no temperature control, no enzymes, no additives. The wines are unfiltered and bottled with zero added sulfites. This is natural winemaking in its purest form: the grapes are transformed by their own yeasts, in their own time, with no correction, no manipulation, and no preservation beyond the wine's own natural stability. The result is a portfolio of wines that are hazy, alive, and gently expressive — wines that feel "soft and fuzzy" rather than aggressively structured.

The techniques are straightforward, traditional, and deeply personal:

Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's organic vineyards. The harvest occurs in the last week of September, with Paolo monitoring each variety daily to determine the optimal moment of phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness. The separation between varieties is maintained throughout the process, ensuring that each cuvée expresses the distinct character of its specific grapes. The manual harvest allows for a direct relationship with the plant, for careful selection in the field, and for the preservation of grape integrity from vine to vessel.

"Vino di Fognano Bianco" — The Orange Wine: The Vino di Fognano Bianco is the estate's signature wine — an orange wine of Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and Ortrugo that has become a benchmark for gentle, approachable skin-contact white wine. Made with the direct help of Giulio Armani, the grapes undergo 15 days of maceration on their skins in stainless steel tanks, then age for 8–10 months in steel before bottling. The result is golden and zesty in the glass, soft and fuzzy on the palate — skin-contact wine without the harsh edges. Grapefruit, Cara Cara orange, mango, and tart yellow stone fruit dominate the rainbow of yellow and orange flavors, countered by scrubby florals — chamomile, sage, saltbush. There is a firm and tangy spine of acidity, but a little time and an increase in temperature aid in providing a wine that is all at once cohesive, alive, and very darn delicious. At 10.5% alcohol, it is light, refreshing, and endlessly drinkable. Serve at 11–12°C. ~$20–$28 / ~€18–€25.

"Vino di Fognano Rosso" — The Still Red: The Vino di Fognano Rosso is a natural red made from Barbera and Bonarda (some vintages also include Pinot Noir or Dolcetto, depending on the year). The grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, and crushed, then macerated on their skins for 15 days before ageing for 10 months in stainless steel tanks. The result is a wine of bright cherry fruit, vibrant acidity, and earthy undertones — a classic Colli Piacentini red made with zero intervention. Unfiltered, with zero added sulfites, it is a wine that demands honest food: charcuterie, aged cheeses, pasta with ragù, or simply a glass among friends. The 2019 vintage is 11.5% alcohol — light, fresh, and alive. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.

"Rosa di Fognano" — The Rosato: The Rosa di Fognano is a rosato that captures the gentle, floral side of the estate. Made from a blend of red and white varieties (the exact blend varies by vintage), it is a wine of delicacy and freshness. The color is pale salmon, the nose a mix of wild strawberries, rose petals, and citrus zest. The palate is light, crisp, and mineral — a wine of summer afternoons and simple pleasures. Like all Fognano wines, it is spontaneously fermented, unfiltered, and bottled with zero added sulfites. Serve well chilled. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.

"Le Bolle di Fognano" — The Pét-Nat: Le Bolle di Fognano is the estate's pétillant naturel — a festive, zesty sparkling rosato made from 100% Barbera. The wine is bottled during fermentation, allowing the natural production of CO2 to create gentle, creamy bubbles without any added sugar or yeast. At 11.5% alcohol, it is light, refreshing, and joyfully effervescent. The nose offers red fruit, wildflowers, and a subtle yeasty complexity. The palate is creamy, with soft bubbles and a subtle umami finish that speaks of the calcareous soils. It is a wine of celebration, of spontaneity, of the simple pleasure of bubbles made honestly. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or with light appetizers. ~$22–$30 / ~€20–€27.

Vessels & Ageing: Paolo works exclusively with stainless steel tanks for fermentation and ageing — a choice that reflects his preference for neutral vessels that preserve the purity of the fruit and the clarity of the terroir. There is no oak, no amphora, no barrique — only the clean, honest interaction of wine and steel. The stainless steel provides thermal stability, prevents oxidation, and allows the wines to develop their own character without external influence. The ageing periods are relatively short — 8–10 months for the Bianco, 10 months for the Rosso — preserving the wines' freshness, vitality, and gentle appeal. All wines are bottled unfiltered, preserving their natural haze, their living yeasts, and their authentic textures. Zero sulfur is added — a radical choice that demands pristine fruit, immaculate cellar hygiene, and absolute confidence in the wine's natural stability.