Wine from the Schist Slopes of the Sausal
Weingut Karl Schnabel–Ermihof is one of Austria's most uncompromising natural wine estates — a family-run biodynamic property on the Sausal mountain in South Styria, where Karl and Eva Schnabel, together with their three sons, produce puritanical natural wines that have never seen a chemical input, either in the vineyard or the cellar. [^61^] [^70^] The estate has been farmed organically for generations, and since Karl and Eva took over the traditional winery in 1998, they have pushed the philosophy even further: all wines are fermented spontaneously, aged and bottled without sulfur or any other additives, without fining, without filtration, and without any chemical or technical manipulation whatsoever. [^61^] [^65^] The barren, poor Sausal soil — siliceous primary rock in the form of schist — is the defining force behind every bottle, giving the wines a ferrous minerality, vertical complexity, and a durability that is rare in the natural wine world. [^61^] [^64^] Demeter certified since 2003, the Schnabels are part of a tight-knit circle of Styrian natural wine pioneers that includes the Musters, Werlitsch, and Tauss — a community that has made Südsteiermark one of the most exciting natural wine regions on earth. [^69^]
From Generations of Organic Farming to Puritanical Natural Wine
The Schnabel family's Ermihof estate sits on the Sausal — an Inselberg, an isolated mountain rising from the South Styrian landscape, with the wine village of Kitzeck at its heart. [^70^] Farming on this estate has been organic for generations. There has never been a conventionally farmed vintage, never a spray of synthetic chemicals, never a shortcut taken in the name of yield or convenience. [^61^]
In 1998, Karl and Eva Schnabel took over the traditional winery from the previous generation. They did not inherit a modern, technologically equipped cellar — they inherited a way of thinking. And they deepened it. Under their stewardship, the estate achieved Demeter biodynamic certification in 2003, joining a small but influential group of Styrian producers who were redefining what Austrian wine could be when nature, not the winemaker, was placed in charge. [^69^]
Today, the estate is a true family operation. Karl and Eva work alongside their three sons, passing down not just techniques but a philosophy — a way of seeing the vineyard as a living organism, the wine as a cultural good of original tradition, and the consumer as someone deserving of complete transparency. [^61^] [^70^] There is no marketing department, no export strategy designed by consultants, no compromise for the sake of marketability. The Schnabels make wine the way their land demands, and they trust that the right drinkers will find them.
This trust has been rewarded. Weingut Karl Schnabel–Ermihof is listed on Raisin, the natural wine discovery platform, with 17 wines currently recommended — a significant portfolio for a small family estate. [^69^] Their wines are sought after by natural wine enthusiasts across Europe and beyond, prized for their purity, their minerality, and their almost defiant adherence to principle.
"All of our wines are fermented grape juice, nothing else."
— Karl & Eva Schnabel, Weingut Karl Schnabel–Ermihof
Demeter Biodynamic, Schist Soils & Three Distinct Vineyards
The Sausal mountain is not an easy place to grow grapes. The soils are barren and poor — siliceous primary rock in the form of schist, with little organic matter and minimal water retention. [^61^] [^64^] This is not the lush, fertile valley floor of the Wachau or the gentle rolling hills of the Weinviertel. This is a rugged, exposed mountainside where vines must struggle, where roots must penetrate deep into fractured rock to find moisture and minerals, and where every grape is hard-won.
But this struggle is the source of the Schnabel wines' character. The schist soils — some coloured red-brown by iron deposits — give the wines a pronounced minerality, a ferrous, stony backbone that runs through every cuvée. [^64^] The poor soil forces the vines to produce small yields of intensely flavoured grapes, and the high altitude — vineyards reaching 520 metres — ensures cool nights, slow ripening, and vibrant natural acidity. The result is wines that are deep and finely structured, vertically complex, and remarkably durable even after opening. [^64^]
The estate is divided into three distinct vineyards, each with its own soil character and microclimate. Hochegg is characterised by rough siliceous primary rock with red-brown slate coloured by iron deposits, on an open, high, steep south-facing hillside with a very airy microclimate. [^64^] Koregg, at 520 metres, has a very barren siliceous primary rock soil with little humus build-up; the deep slaty rock has a finer stone structure, and the vineyard sits in a sheltered position within the Sausal hilly landscape. [^64^] Kreuzegg, at 500 metres, consists of weathered siliceous primary rock with a covering of humus, with an open view of the Koralp mountains. [^64^]
The farming is biodynamic and Demeter certified, meaning the Schnabels work with the lunar calendar, use biodynamic preparations, maintain biodiversity, and treat the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem. [^69^] There are no herbicides, no pesticides, no synthetic fertilisers. The cover crops between vine rows are allowed to grow wild, encouraging insect life and soil health. The result is a vineyard that is alive — not a monoculture, but a thriving community of plants, animals, and microorganisms that support the vines and, ultimately, the wines.
Full biodynamic certification since 2003. Farming according to Rudolf Steiner's principles, with lunar calendar work, biodynamic preparations, and holistic ecosystem management. [^69^]
The Ermihof has never been farmed conventionally. Organic viticulture is not a recent conversion but a multi-generational inheritance, deeply embedded in the family's identity. [^61^]
Barren, poor soils of siliceous primary rock and schist. Iron-deposited red-brown slate at Hochegg, fine deep slaty rock at Koregg, weathered schist with humus at Kreuzegg. [^64^]
Hochegg (airy, iron-rich, steep south face), Koregg (sheltered, 520m, fine stone), Kreuzegg (500m, humus cover, Koralp views). Each vineyard gives a different expression of Sausal terroir. [^64^]
Puritanical Natural Wine & the Handwriting of the Winemaker
The Schnabels describe their winemaking as "puritanical" — a word that captures both the rigour and the spiritual dimension of their approach. [^65^] Since 2007, all of their wines have been aged and bottled without the addition of sulfur. [^65^] But the commitment goes further: there is no chemical manipulation, no technical intervention, no treatment agents, no enzymes, no cultured yeasts, no temperature control, no fining, and no filtration. [^61^] [^64^]
Fermentation is entirely spontaneous — driven by the indigenous yeasts that live on the grape skins and in the winery environment. [^64^] The Schnabels trust these yeasts to do their work at their own pace, in their own time. There is no rushing, no forcing, no attempt to standardise outcomes. Each vintage is allowed to express itself fully, with the "handwriting of the winemaker" — Karl and Eva's intuitive, experienced touch — guiding rather than dominating the process. [^61^]
The wines are aged for long periods — far longer than conventional Styrian wines — allowing them to develop depth, complexity, and a kind of inner stability that comes only with time. [^64^] The Schnabels believe that natural wines, when made without sulfur and without manipulation, need time to find their balance. The result is wines that are not only lively and elegant but also remarkably durable — they hold up beautifully after opening, and many improve with years in the bottle. [^64^]
All wines are vegan — a natural consequence of the no-additive philosophy, as no animal-derived fining agents are ever used. [^64^] The wines are also dry and suitable for diabetics, as no residual sugar is added and fermentation runs to full dryness. [^64^] This is wine in its most stripped-back, honest form: fermented grape juice, nothing else, reflecting the Sausal soil, the vintage, and the quiet, persistent labour of a family that has never known any other way.
Pinot Noir Hochegg — "Shining Queen"
The Pinot Noir Hochegg is the estate's most extraordinary wine — a cuvée that has earned the moniker "Shining Queen" and "Animating Exotic" on the Schnabels' own tasting notes. [^64^] [^67^]
Coming from the iron-rich, red-brown schist soils of the Hochegg vineyard, this Pinot Noir is unlike any other in Austria. The schist gives it a ferrous, stony backbone that lifts the delicate red fruit and earthy spice of the grape into something more profound. The wine is spontaneously fermented, aged without sulfur, and bottled unfiltered — yet it possesses a clarity and luminosity that justifies its name.
The 2018 vintage — released as a Limited Edition N.1 — is described by the Schnabels as "the most extraordinary wine we have ever had in our history." [^67^] After two years of careful elevage, it emerged as a wine of rare depth and elegance: bright cherry and wild strawberry, underlaid with smoke, iron, and dried herbs, finishing with a minerality that seems to come from the mountain itself. It is a wine that demands patience, rewards contemplation, and proves that natural wine, when made with this level of care and terroir, can rival the greatest Pinot Noirs of the world. ~€45–€65 / ~$50–$72.
The Ermihof Range
Weingut Karl Schnabel–Ermihof produces a focused range of white, red, rosé, and orange wines from their biodynamic vineyards on the Sausal mountain. All wines are spontaneously fermented, aged without sulfur or any additives, unfiltered, and vegan. [^61^] [^64^] The portfolio is built around three distinct vineyard sites — Hochegg, Koregg, and Kreuzegg — each giving a different expression of schist terroir. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.