Wine from the Heart of Brda
Kmetija Štekar is a family-run natural winery in the Brda region of western Slovenia, an area with steep slopes, rich biodiversity, and a long history of winemaking. [^230^] For generations, the Štekar family has farmed five hectares of vineyards around the village of Kojsko, at 180 meters above sea level, with south and southwest exposure. [^230^] Janko and Tamara Štekar are the current custodians, farming organically without synthetic chemicals, using natural plant-based treatments when needed. In the cellar, they follow ancient traditions of long maceration and spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts. [^230^] They were the first certified organic winery in the Goriška Brda region, achieving certification in 2006 under the supervision of the KON CERT institute from Maribor. [^235^] Their belief is simple and profound: wine is a living being, and it should be treated as such. [^235^]
Generations in Brda — Pioneers of Organic Viticulture
The Štekar family has been farming in the Goriška Brda hills for generations, tending vines, orchards, and gardens in one of Slovenia's most beautiful and historically significant wine regions. Brda shares its terroir with neighbouring Collio in Italy — the same steep slopes, the same ponka soils, the same Mediterranean climate moderated by Alpine coolness. [^230^] The Štekar vineyards are situated around the village of Kojsko, at 180 meters above sea level, with south and southwest exposure that captures the sun and ripens the grapes evenly throughout the season. [^230^]
In 2006, Kmetija Štekar became the first certified organic winery in the Goriška Brda region — a pioneering move at a time when organic viticulture was still considered eccentric in this part of Slovenia. [^235^] The certification, overseen by the KON CERT institute from Maribor, was not merely a marketing decision but a philosophical commitment. Janko and Tamara believed — and continue to believe — that the health of the soil, the vines, and the surrounding ecosystem is the foundation of everything that follows in the cellar. Without healthy grapes, there can be no authentic wine.
The family is deeply rooted in the community and the land. They operate Hiša Štekar, the first tourist farm in the region, which has been welcoming guests since 1986. [^234^] The rooms are named after wine varieties — Ribolla Gialla, Merlot — and furnished in an olden-times' style that gives visitors the feeling that the world has stopped for a moment. [^234^] They also run Glamping Senesalina, four prestige glamping houses in the valley of Snežatno, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding scenery. [^234^] This is not a winery that exists in isolation; it is a farm, a home, and a way of life that encompasses agriculture, hospitality, and a profound respect for tradition.
"We believe that wine is a living being and we should treat it as such."
— Janko & Tamara Štekar
Certified Organic, Grassed Vines & Natural Treatments
Kmetija Štekar adheres to organic farming principles certified by KON CERT, maintaining vineyards without synthetic chemicals. [^235^] All their vineyards are grassed over, and they use the same protective measures for vine protection as their ancestors did before the rise of chemistry. [^235^] They also employ more modern natural methods such as preparations from algae, microorganisms, carrot extract, and similar plant-based treatments. [^235^] They do not fertilise the soil; instead, they maintain its fertility through frequent mulching and grass mowing, which turns the cuttings into nitrogen and compost — a closed loop that returns nutrients to the earth without external inputs.
The estate encompasses 5 hectares of vineyards, situated on the steep slopes that characterise the Brda-Collio borderland. [^230^] [^238^] The soils are the same ponka — marl and sandstone — that underlies the great wines of Collio, providing both excellent drainage and a mineral richness that is unmistakable in the glass. The south and southwest exposure ensures full sun throughout the day, while the elevation of 180 meters provides a moderating coolness that preserves acidity and extends the growing season. The result is a terroir that is both generous and demanding — producing grapes of genuine character and complexity, but only for those who tend the vines with patience and respect.
Janko and Tamara cultivate a diverse palette of indigenous and international varieties, including Ribolla Gialla (Rebula), Malvasia, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Glera, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. [^231^] [^234^] The focus, however, is on the varieties that have grown in this region for centuries — grapes that have adapted to the local climate, soil, and culture. Ribolla Gialla is the signature white of Brda, a grape of extraordinary acidity and mineral depth. Malvasia adds aromatic complexity and a distinctive Mediterranean character. The reds — Merlot and Pinot Noir — find a natural home in the ponka soils, producing wines that are structured, savoury, and built for ageing.
Certified organic since 2006 by KON CERT institute from Maribor. Pioneers of organic viticulture in Goriška Brda. No synthetic chemicals. [^235^]
All vineyards grassed over. Fertility maintained through mulching and grass mowing — natural nitrogen and compost. No artificial fertilisers. [^235^]
Traditional methods combined with modern natural approaches — algae preparations, microorganisms, carrot extract. Ancestors' wisdom plus innovation. [^235^]
Marl and sandstone ponka soils at 180m elevation, south and southwest exposure. The same terroir that produces the great wines of neighbouring Collio. [^230^]
Spontaneous Fermentation, No Selected Yeasts & Minimal Sulfur
In the cellar, Kmetija Štekar follows ancient traditions of long maceration and spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts. [^230^] For all wines, fermentation is spontaneous — they do not use selected yeasts. [^235^] They do not add sulfur unless absolutely necessary. [^235^] Their wines are not filtered, and fine sediments may appear in the bottle, which along with tannins protect the wine from oxidation. [^235^] This hands-off approach produces wines that are authentic, expressive, and deeply connected to their place of origin. [^230^]
The Malvazija is an orange wine produced from local Malvasia grapes with spontaneous fermentation in steel tank — a wine that captures the aromatic complexity of the variety and the mineral backbone of the Brda terroir through extended skin contact. [^232^] The Belo is a natural white wine made from a blend of Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Glera — a cuvée that showcases the diversity of varieties that thrive in this region and the harmony that can be achieved when they are blended with care and respect. [^231^]
The Pinot Draga is a white wine from Pinot Blanc — a variety that finds a natural home in the ponka soils of Brda, producing wines of quiet elegance and stony minerality. [^240^] The Filip line represents the more experimental, premium face of the estate — wines that push boundaries while remaining rooted in tradition. [^234^] Whether classic or experimental, every Štekar wine carries the same signature: purity, authenticity, and a sense of place that is unmistakably Brda.
The result is a range of wines that are soulful and approachable, combining depth with drinkability — crafted with care across generations. [^230^] They are wines that do not shout; they are wines that whisper, that reveal themselves gradually, that demand attention and repay it with layers of flavour and a sense of place that is rare in the modern wine world. Janko and Tamara Štekar have proven that organic farming, traditional winemaking, and a deep respect for the land can produce wines that stand among the finest of Brda and Collio — wines that are not merely consumed, but experienced.
Malvazija — "Orange Wine from Local Malvasia"
The Malvazija is Kmetija Štekar's most distinctive wine — an orange wine that has become a calling card for the estate and a benchmark for the style in the Brda region. [^232^]
Made from 100% Malvasia Istriana grown on the organically farmed, grassed-over vineyards of Kojsko, the grapes are hand-harvested and spontaneously fermented in steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine undergoes extended skin maceration, extracting colour, tannin, and aromatic compounds that transform the white grape into something amber, textured, and savoury. [^232^]
In the glass, it is golden-orange and hazy, with aromas of dried apricot, wild herbs, and a distinct mineral salinity from the ponka soils. The palate is structured and tannic, with a freshness that belies its extraction and a finish that speaks of the Mediterranean sun and the Alpine coolness that defines Brda. It is not filtered, and fine sediments may appear in the bottle — a sign of its living, evolving nature, protected from oxidation by the very tannins and sediments that some might consider imperfections. It is a wine of courage and conviction — a testament to the Štekar family's belief that wine is a living being, and that to filter it, to strip it of its natural protection, would be to diminish its soul. ~€22–€30 / ~$24–$33.
The Kmetija Štekar Range
Kmetija Štekar produces a diverse range of organic natural wines from 5 hectares of certified organic vineyards in Kojsko, Goriška Brda. All wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, made without selected yeasts, unfiltered, and with minimal sulfur only when necessary. The portfolio spans classic lines and more experimental cuvées, reflecting the family's deep connection to tradition and their willingness to explore. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.