Organic Is Now A Bit Tight
La Torrazzetta is a historic, family-run organic estate in Borgo Priolo, in the heart of the Oltrepò Pavese — the largest wine region of Lombardy, located about one hour south of Milan. Founded in 1984 by Franco Fiori and his wife Gianna, it was the very first winery in the entire Oltrepò Pavese to convert to organic farming — a decision taken at a time when "organic" was an unknown concept, considered by many to be a folly, something strange, hazardous, unnecessary, and risky. Franco, a graduate in Construction Engineering from Milan Polytechnic, inherited the family farm from his father Carlo in the early 1980s and chose to devote himself entirely to the land, to wine production, and to the preservation of the territory. His motivation was both philosophical and deeply personal: the family lived in the heart of the countryside, and their three small children spent their days playing in the vineyards and fields. Today, the estate is managed by the next generation — Paolo, Sergio, and Giulia Fiori — who have pushed the philosophy even further: "Organic is now a bit tight for us," they declare. "Our wines can now be defined as Natural." The estate produces 25,000 to 30,000 bottles annually from vineyards on clayey soils with outcrops of clayey marl and sand, at 170 meters elevation, with south-west exposure. All wines are not filtered, and the estate is a proud member of F.I.V.I. — the Italian Federation of Independent Vinegrowers.
A Folly That Became A Foundation
The story of La Torrazzetta begins in 1984, when Franco Fiori inherited the family farm from his father Carlo, who had owned the Torrazzetta property since the early twentieth century. Franco was not a career vigneron; he was a graduate in Construction Engineering from Milan Polytechnic, a man of science and structure. But when he inherited the farm in the early 1980s, he made a decision that would transform not only his life but the entire Oltrepò Pavese wine region: he chose to devote himself entirely to the land, to the ever-growing care of wine production, to the preservation of the territory, and to local production. And he chose to do it organically — at a time when the word "organic" was virtually unknown in Italian viticulture, considered by most with distrust, as something strange, hazardous, unnecessary, and risky.
The motivation was both philosophical and deeply personal. Franco and his wife Gianna — a former mathematics teacher in high schools — lived in the heart of the countryside, and their three small children spent their days playing in the vineyards and fields. The decision to convert to organic was not merely about producing healthier wines or safeguarding the terrain; it was about protecting the health of their own family, ensuring that the soil their children ran through was free of synthetic chemicals, that the air they breathed was clean, that the water they drank was unpolluted. Gianna became the heart and soul of Torrazzetta, dedicating herself to the ambitious project alongside her husband and managing relationships with customers and companies with the warmth and precision that defined the estate's character.
For decades, the Fiori family tended their vines with the patience and rigor that only a small-scale, family-run farm can afford. They faced skepticism from neighbors, challenges from pests and diseases that conventional farmers controlled with chemicals, and the constant pressure of lower yields that organic farming demands. But they persisted, guided by a belief that the health of the land and the authenticity of the wine were inextricably linked. Year by year, they improved the quality of their wines, thanks to the continuous efforts of family members and the assistants who supported them and still work with them today. What began as a "folly" became a foundation — the first stone in what would become a regional movement toward organic and natural viticulture.
Today, the estate is managed by the next generation: Paolo, the first child of Franco and Gianna, is passionate about the countryside, the vineyard, and the vintage, and currently works in the kitchen of the agritourism restaurant, using ingredients from the farm's organic garden to pair with Torrazzetta wines. Sergio, the second-born, is dedicated to the management of the company and is particularly responsible for the vineyard, the winery, and the organic garden, together with his father. Giulia, a graduate in industrial design from Milan Polytechnic, helps run the family business, especially the agritourism services, client contacts, and the development of marketing and communication. Together, they have pushed the philosophy even further: "Organic is now a bit tight for us," they declare. "Our wines can now be defined as Natural." This is not a rejection of their heritage; it is an evolution of it — a commitment to even healthier wines, greater safeguarding of the territory, and the continued protection of the environment and the health of their customers.
"In 1984 Torrazzetta was the first wine-making company in Oltrepò Pavese to convert to organic farming, thanks to the foresight of Franco Fiori and his wife Gianna. This decision was taken during a time when this was not yet considered to be a commercial advantage, but was seen by most with distrust, as something strange, hazardous, unnecessary and risky."
— La Torrazzetta
Clayey Marl & Sand at 170 Meters
La Torrazzetta's vineyards are located in the municipality of Borgo Priolo, in the Oltrepò Pavese — the largest wine region of Lombardy, located about one hour south of Milan. The vineyards are divided between two sites: one part in Pavarolo, the other in Torrazzetta, where the main body of the farm and the wine-making cellar are located. The soils are clayey with outcrops of clayey marl and sand — a composition that is classic for the lower hills of the Oltrepò Pavese, providing body, structure, and a certain rustic character to the wines. The elevation is 170 meters above sea level, with south-west exposure that ensures optimal afternoon sun and good drainage.
The clayey soils of Borgo Priolo are the foundation of the estate's wine quality. The clay retains moisture and imparts body and depth to the grapes, while the marl outcrops contribute minerality and the sand ensures drainage. This is not the light, chalky soil of higher elevations; it is a heavier, more robust composition that gives the wines a certain weight and structure — particularly favorable for red varieties like Croatina and Barbera, which thrive in these conditions. The south-west exposure means the vines receive the warm afternoon sun, which develops sugar and color, while the moderate elevation preserves enough acidity to keep the wines fresh and balanced. The result is grapes of solid character: concentrated, earthy, and capable of producing wines with genuine ageing potential.
The climate is continental with moderate influence from the nearby Po Valley and the Apennine foothills. Summers are warm and sun-drenched, thanks to the south-west exposure, but rarely oppressive due to the elevation and the breezes that sweep across the Oltrepò hills. Winters are cold, with frost that naturally controls pests and diseases. Rainfall is moderate, and the organic farming practices — including grassing-over between the rows — help retain soil moisture and prevent erosion. The combination of warm days, cool nights, and clayey-marly soils creates ideal conditions for the estate's varieties: the heat develops the color and sugar that define great Croatina and Barbera, while the clay and diurnal shifts preserve the acidity and structure necessary for wines of longevity.
Farming is certified organic and deeply traditional. The cultivation of the vineyards is conducted in the counter-espalier manner with Guyot pruning, at a planting density of about 4,000 vines per hectare. Grassing-over is carried out in order to preserve the life and biodiversity of the vineyard — a practice that was revolutionary in 1984 and remains essential today. Only organic fertilisers are used, and the vines are pruned in the field so as to return the nutrients to the soil. Vineyard treatments are conducted using only traditional products such as sulphur and copper — the same materials that farmers have used for centuries. This is not maximum-yield agriculture; it is maximum-integrity viticulture, where the health of the soil, the safety of the family, and the authenticity of the wine are the only metrics that matter.
Classic lower Oltrepò Pavese geology — clay retains moisture, imparts body and depth; marl outcrops contribute minerality; sand ensures drainage. Heavy, robust composition giving wines weight and structure. Particularly favorable for Croatina and Barbera. The foundation of solid, earthy, age-worthy wines.
Warm sun-drenched summers with south-west exposure. Cold winters with natural frost pest control. Moderate elevation preserving acidity. Breezes across Oltrepò hills preventing excessive heat. Ideal for red varieties — heat develops color and sugar; clay and cool nights preserve acidity and structure.
First organic winery in Oltrepò Pavese. Counter-espalier with Guyot pruning, 4,000 vines/ha. Grassing-over for biodiversity. Only organic fertilisers, pruning in field to return nutrients. Traditional treatments: sulphur and copper only. No synthetic chemicals — ever. Maximum-integrity viticulture as family tradition.
Member of Italian Federation of Independent Vinegrowers — from A (vineyard care) to Z (marketing). Family-run from vineyard to bottle. Next generation pushing beyond organic to natural. "Organic is now a bit tight for us." Evolution, not rejection, of heritage. Unfiltered wines as standard practice.
Not Filtered, Fine Lees & Second/Third Passage Barriques
At La Torrazzetta, the cellar philosophy is one of patience, tradition, and minimal intervention — a natural extension of the organic farming practiced in the vineyard since 1984. The Fiori family believes that the best wine is made by allowing nature to do its work, with the vigneron's role limited to guiding rather than controlling. The winemaking process is designed to preserve the purity of the fruit: grapes are crushed within 2–3 hours of harvesting, fermentation occurs at controlled temperatures, and the wines are left to refine on their own fine lees for several months in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. For wines destined for ageing, refinement takes place in French oak barrels of second or third passage (225L) for 12 to 36 months, depending on the type of wine. The result is a portfolio of wines that are honest, traditional, and deeply expressive of the Oltrepò Pavese terroir — from the rustic "Curmà" Croatina to the elegant méthode classique sparkling wines.
The techniques are demanding, traditional, and deeply rooted in the history of the Oltrepò Pavese:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's organically farmed vineyards. The Fiori family monitors each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to be crushed within 2–3 hours. This rapid processing is crucial for preserving freshness and preventing oxidation. Every year, only the best of the production is destined to be bottled — a total of 25,000 to 30,000 bottles, depending on the vintage. The rest is sold in bulk or used for other purposes, ensuring that every bottle that bears the Torrazzetta label meets the family's exacting standards.
"Curmà" — The Unfiltered Croatina: The "Curmà" is La Torrazzetta's flagship red — a pure Croatina (locally known as Bonarda) that embodies everything the estate stands for: tradition, authenticity, and unwavering respect for the grape. The grapes are hand-harvested in mid-to-late September, destemmed by soft crushing, and decanted into stainless steel tanks for fermentation at a controlled temperature of less than 25°C. Maceration of the skins lasts about 14 days, carried out with punching down and periodic repassing to extract color, tannins, and aromatics without overwhelming the wine's natural freshness. Malolactic fermentation occurs in the tank in the spring following vinification. The wine then ages for 18 months in stainless steel and a minimum of 6 months in the bottle before release. Crucially, the Curmà is **not filtered** — a deliberate choice that preserves the wine's natural texture, flavor layers, and living energy. The result is an intense red, fruity and fragrant, dry, rightly tannic and full — "the wine of our grandparents," as the family describes it. It is proof that Croatina, when handled with patience and respect, can produce wines of genuine depth and character.
Barbera — The Vibrant Red: The estate's Barbera is produced with the same meticulous care as the Curmà. The grapes are hand-harvested, fermented at controlled temperature, and aged in a combination of stainless steel and second-passage French oak barriques. The result is a wine of vibrant acidity, red fruit character, and a freshness that makes it immediately approachable yet capable of ageing. Cherry, plum, spice, and a distinct earthy undertone speak of the clayey-marly soils beneath the vineyard. It is the lively, joyful face of the estate's red philosophy — a wine for the table, for the moment, for the pleasure of drinking something honest and alive.
White Wines — Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Riesling: La Torrazzetta produces a range of white wines from varieties that thrive in the Oltrepò Pavese climate. The Pinot Grigio is fresh, mineral, and immediately drinkable — a wine of citrus, almond, and a crisp, clean finish. The Chardonnay is richer, more structured, with notes of white peach, vanilla from careful oak ageing, and a creamy texture that speaks of the fine lees contact. The Riesling — a rarity in the Oltrepò — is aromatic, petrol-tinged, and capable of surprising complexity, proving that the region's clayey soils and continental climate can support this demanding variety when handled with expertise. All whites are fermented at controlled temperatures and aged on their fine lees, developing texture and depth without losing freshness.
Méthode Classique Sparkling Wines — "Aurora" & "Aurora Noir": La Torrazzetta is one of the few wineries in the Oltrepò Pavese to directly carry out all phases of sparkling wine production: drafting (bottling), refermentation in the bottle, aging on the lees, manual remuage, disgorging, dosing, and packaging. The "Aurora" is a white sparkling wine — likely based on Pinot Nero or Chardonnay — that undergoes traditional method production with extended lees ageing, resulting in a wine of fine persistent mousse, autolytic complexity, and elegant structure. The "Aurora Noir" is a rosé or blanc de noirs sparkling wine from Pinot Nero, with a delicate pink hue, red berry aromatics, and a crisp, mineral finish. Every 12 months, all bottles of sparkling wine are stirred and reconnected to encourage the further mixing of the yeasts and improve their refinement. This is not industrial sparkling production; it is artisanal craftsmanship, carried out by hand, with patience, and with a deep understanding of the méthode classique.
Dessert & Meditation Wines: The estate also produces sweet and meditation wines — passiti or late-harvest expressions that showcase the concentrated, dried fruit character of grapes left to desiccate on the vine or in controlled conditions. These are wines of extraordinary depth and richness: honeyed, complex, with notes of dried apricot, fig, and candied citrus. They are not merely dessert wines; they are contemplative wines, meant to be sipped slowly, savored, and paired with aged cheeses, foie gras, or simply good conversation.
Sustainable Packaging & The Cantina del Pellegrino: The estate's commitment to sustainability extends beyond the vineyard and cellar to the bottle itself. For its still wines, Torrazzetta exclusively uses stoppers from Nomacorc — the world leader in cork alternatives. The Select Green wine stopper is the first in the world to leave no carbon footprint, fully biodegradable, obtained from renewable bio-polymers extracted from sugar cane. It allows a continuous and controlled flow of oxygen, enabling the wines to develop for many years without any loss of quality. The estate also dedicates itself to the recovery of discarded barrels, reusing them as decorative elements — both in their original state and imaginatively modified into furniture and furnishings — and the recovery of everyday objects from early rural farming culture to preserve the memory of times gone by. Next to the winery is the "Cantina del Pellegrino" — the Cellar of the Pilgrim — a beautiful space created from the staves of old barrels, where visitors can enjoy breakfast, coffee breaks, tastings, and direct purchases of the estate's products.
Ageing & Bottling: The estate's approach to ageing is deliberately patient and traditional. After fermentation, the wines are left to refine on their own fine lees for several months in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks — a period that develops texture, complexity, and a creamy mouthfeel. Wines destined for ageing subsequently refine in French oak barrels of second or third passage (225L) for a period of 12 to 36 months, depending on the type of wine. There is no new oak dominance — the family uses only second and third passage barrels to avoid overwhelming the wines with toast or vanilla. The wines are bottled without filtration, preserving their natural character and living energy. The result is wines that are pure, honest, and unmistakably Torrazzetta — alive, evolving, and deeply rooted in the Oltrepò Pavese terroir.
"Curmà" — "100% Croatina, 14 Days Skin Maceration, 18 Months Stainless Steel, 6 Months Bottle, Not Filtered — The Wine of Our Grandparents"
The "Curmà" is La Torrazzetta's most iconic and celebrated wine — a pure Croatina (Bonarda) that embodies everything the Fiori family stands for: tradition, authenticity, unwavering respect for the grape, and a refusal to compromise on quality. It is not merely a red wine; it is a liquid archive of Oltrepò Pavese viticultural history, a testament to four decades of organic farming, and a declaration that the simplest wines, when made with patience and integrity, can achieve extraordinary depth and character.
The grapes come from the estate's organically farmed vineyards in Borgo Priolo, on clayey soils with outcrops of clayey marl and sand at 170 meters elevation, with south-west exposure. The vines are cultivated in the counter-espalier manner with Guyot pruning, at a density of 4,000 vines per hectare, and have been farmed organically since 1984 — the first in the region to do so. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers have ever touched these vines. The grassing-over between rows preserves biodiversity, and the pruning in the field returns nutrients to the soil. The result is grapes of solid, earthy character — concentrated, healthy, and deeply expressive of their terroir.
The harvest takes place in mid-to-late September, entirely by hand, with meticulous selection of only the finest bunches. The grapes are destemmed by soft crushing and decanted into stainless steel tanks for fermentation, which occurs at a controlled temperature of less than 25°C — cool enough to preserve freshness and aromatics, warm enough to extract color and tannins. Maceration of the skins lasts about 14 days, carried out with punching down and periodic repassing to ensure full yet gentle extraction. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in the tank in the spring following vinification, softening the wine's acidity and adding complexity.
After fermentation, the wine ages for 18 months in stainless steel tanks — a period that allows it to develop on its fine lees, gaining texture, depth, and a certain creaminess without any influence from wood. A minimum of 6 months in the bottle follows, allowing the wine to integrate, settle, and reveal its full potential. Crucially, the Curmà is **not filtered** — a deliberate choice that preserves the wine's natural sediment, texture, and living energy. This is not a polished, industrial wine; it is an honest, artisanal product that carries the imprint of the vineyard, the season, and the hands that made it.
In the glass, it is intense ruby red with a garnet rim that hints at its ageing potential. The nose is fruity and fragrant — wild berry, cherry, plum, and a distinct earthy, almost balsamic undertone that speaks of the clayey-marly soils. There are notes of dried herbs, leather, and a subtle spice that develops with time in the bottle. The palate is dry, rightly tannic and full — structured yet approachable, with vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh and a long, savoury finish that invites another sip. This is not a heavy, over-extracted wine; it is a wine of balance, honesty, and Oltrepò soul — proof that Croatina, when grown organically and aged with patience, can achieve a depth and character that rivals more celebrated varieties.
The Curmà demands respect. It will reward 5–10 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, leathery, and dried fruit complexity. Serve at 18°C after a brief decant, with braised meats, aged cheeses, polenta, or simply on its own as a contemplative red. This is the wine that carries the legacy of Franco Fiori's 1984 vision — from a "folly" that others distrusted to the flagship of a family that never wavered. Every bottle is a testament to the power of belief in organic agriculture, the transformative potential of unfiltered winemaking, and the enduring magic of wines that honor tradition rather than chase trends. ~$18–$28 / ~€16–€25.
The La Torrazzetta Range
The Fiori family produces an artisanal, organic portfolio from their vineyards in Borgo Priolo, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, and crafted with minimal intervention in a cellar built in 1934 and modified since the 1940s to meet production needs. Grapes are crushed within 2–3 hours of harvesting. Fermentation at controlled temperatures. Wines refine on fine lees in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Ageing wines mature in second/third passage French oak barriques (225L) for 12–36 months. All sparkling wines produced entirely on-site: drafting, refermentation, lees ageing, manual remuage, disgorging, dosing, and packaging. Not filtered. Annual production: 25,000–30,000 bottles of the best wine only. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
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Retailers / Where to buy (international)
Official winery shop – ships to 21 EU countries; full range. Torrazzetta Winery Shop
Torrazzetta (farm site, Wines page) – states shipping across Italy & Europe; contact for specifics. Agriturismo Torrazzetta vicino a Pavia
Vini.ws (IT/EU) – online retailer with Torrazzetta selections. vini.ws
Spumanteria Opera (IT/EU) – lists Torrazzetta “Luce” Metodo Classico. spumanteriaopera.com
Vivino marketplace (global) – winery & product pages (e.g., Luce, Luce Extra Brut, Râcà), which surface merchants by country. Vivino+3Vivino+3Vivino+3

