Going Against the Tide
Lusenti Vini is a certified organic, family-run estate in the heart of Val Tidone, on the Piacenza hills of Emilia-Romagna. Led by mother and daughter Lodovica and Martina Lusenti, the winery cultivates 20 hectares of vineyards on rich clay and limestone soils, championing indigenous varieties and a minimalist, non-intrusive approach to winemaking. What began as Lodovica's bold return to the family farm in 2000 — after a career in fashion — has evolved into one of the most distinctive voices in the Colli Piacentini. In 2023, the estate split its production into two distinct lines: Lodovica's traditional, reflective line and Martina's experimental, contemporary line, proving that going against the tide is a gift in the Lusenti family. All wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, unfined, unfiltered, and many are made with zero added sulfur.
From Fashion to the Vineyard
The Lusenti family has been farming the land of Val Tidone for generations, rooted in the rolling hills of the Colli Piacentini, near the town of Ziano Piacentino in the province of Piacenza. This is a territory of extraordinary agricultural richness — where the Po Valley's fertility meets the mineral complexity of the Apennine foothills, where clay and limestone soils have shaped distinctive wines for centuries. The Colli Piacentini is a wine region of remarkable diversity, home to some of Italy's most distinctive indigenous varieties: Ortrugo, Malvasia di Candia, Barbera, Croatina, and Bonarda. It is a land that demands respect and patience, and the Lusenti family has answered that demand across generations.
In 2000, the estate entered a transformative new chapter. Lodovica Lusenti — who had built a career in the fashion industry — made a life-changing decision to return to her family's land and devote herself entirely to viticulture. It was not a calculated career move; it was an act of faith in tradition, a belief that the best way to honor her family's farming heritage was to be present, hands-on, and uncompromising. She brought a fresh perspective and a fierce commitment to natural viticulture, transforming the family estate into a haven for organic, low-intervention winemaking. The vineyards were completely converted to certified organic cultivation — a bold choice in an era when conventional farming dominated the region.
In 2009, Lodovica made her first single-variety, cloudy, bottle-fermented wines — a move that was considered sacrilege by many in Piacenza at the time. While other producers favored the Charmat method for its cleanliness and clarity, Lodovica went against the tide, bottling a fragrant, cloudy elixir that captured the raw spirit of her terroir. It was widely talked about and considered by locals as a "well-executed novelty." But for Lodovica, it was not novelty — it was honesty. Bottle-fermented wines had always existed in the region; she was simply refusing to let industrial convenience erase tradition.
In 2017, Martina Lusenti joined the company, bringing her own creative oenological ideas and a deep fascination with recovery — of old vineyards, abandoned techniques, and forgotten vessels. The recovery of what has been "abandoned" has always fascinated her. She introduced stoneware amphorae, expanded the selection of bottle-fermented wines, and pushed the estate toward even bolder expressions. In 2023, mother and daughter made a decisive choice: they split the Lusenti label into two distinct lines to provide more clarity for their customers. As Martina explains, drawing on Heraclitus: "Reality is composed of opposite elements; no element exists without its opposite, and each defines the other, making them inextricably linked and dependent on one another." The two lines are distinct and separate, but they coexist because they are interconnected — two souls of the same estate, two interpretations of the same land.
"Going against the tide is a gift in our family, and I, too, am 'afflicted' by it. It's no accident that I am my mother's daughter."
— Martina Lusenti
Val Tidone Clay & Certified Organic
Lusenti Vini's 20 hectares of vineyards are located in the heart of Val Tidone, on the Piacenza hills of Emilia-Romagna — a landscape of rolling hills, ancient villages, and deep agricultural tradition. The estate sits on rich clay and limestone soils typical of the Colli Piacentini, soils that provide excellent drainage, mineral richness, and a unique terroir expression that defines the wines' character. The clay retains moisture during dry periods while the limestone contributes minerality and structure, creating ideal conditions for both white and red varieties. The hillsides ensure natural drainage, preventing waterlogging and encouraging the vines to dig deep for nutrients, while the elevation provides significant diurnal temperature shifts that preserve acidity and develop complexity.
The climate is continental with Apennine influence — warm, sun-drenched summers that develop sugar and color in the grapes, cool nights that preserve acidity and aromatic freshness. The constant breezes that sweep across the Val Tidone hills help to prevent fungal diseases and maintain vine health naturally. Rainfall is moderate, and the estate's organic practices — including biodiversity management and manual cultivation — help maintain soil structure and prevent erosion. The combination of warm days, cool nights, clay-limestone soils, and hillside exposure creates ideal conditions for the estate's diverse varieties: the heat develops aromatics and sugar, while the altitude and cool nights preserve the vibrant acidity that defines both the whites and reds of the Colli Piacentini.
Farming is certified organic and deeply respectful of biodiversity. Lodovica avoids all chemical pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilizers, focusing instead on maintaining a healthy, biodiverse ecosystem where the vineyard thrives as part of a larger natural balance. The vineyards are worked by hand — planting, pruning, training, harvesting — with Lodovica and Martina personally overseeing every operation. The estate's organic certification is not a marketing label; it is a reflection of a genuine commitment to environmental stewardship, to the health of the soil, the vines, and the people who drink the wines. The result is grapes of exceptional quality — healthy, concentrated, and deeply expressive of the Val Tidone terroir.
The estate champions the indigenous grapes of the Colli Piacentini with fierce pride. Ortrugo — the region's signature white grape — thrives in these clay-limestone soils, producing wines of bright acidity and distinctive character. Malvasia di Candia, with its extraordinary aromatic intensity, finds its fullest expression here. Barbera and Croatina, the classic red varieties of the region, develop depth and vibrancy on these hillsides. Bonarda — another regional treasure — contributes to blends that speak of tradition and place. The Lusenti family does not chase international varieties or fashionable trends; they believe that the soul of the Colli Piacentini is found in its native grapes, and their mission is to reveal that soul in every bottle.
Rolling Piacenza hills with rich clay and limestone soils. Excellent natural drainage. Mineral backbone contributing complexity and structure. Significant diurnal temperature shifts. Ideal for both white and red indigenous varieties. Hillside exposure maximizes sun exposure and airflow.
Warm sun-drenched summers, cool nights preserving acidity. Constant breezes prevent fungal diseases naturally. Moderate rainfall managed by organic practices. Ideal for diverse varieties — heat develops aromatics and sugar; cool nights preserve vibrant acidity and freshness.
No chemical pesticides, herbicides, or synthetic fertilizers. Focus on healthy, biodiverse ecosystem. Manual cultivation only — all operations by hand. Organic certification reflecting genuine environmental commitment. Maximum-integrity viticulture guided by respect for nature and family tradition.
Lodovica's traditional line: reflective, wise, rooted in history — wines for the fireplace and jazz. Martina's experimental line: contemporary, pop, fresh — wines for the sunset and the sea. Two distinct philosophies, one interconnected family. Going against the tide, together.
Indigenous Yeasts & Zero Added Sulfur
At Lusenti Vini, the cellar philosophy is one of deep non-intrusion — a commitment to letting the grapes, the terroir, and the indigenous yeasts speak without interference. All wines are fermented exclusively with indigenous yeasts present on the grapes themselves. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. The wines are unfined and unfiltered, preserving their full flavor, texture, and character. Lodovica is a champion of "Senza Solfiti Aggiunti" (without added sulfites) — many of her wines are made with zero added sulfur, a radical choice that demands pristine fruit, immaculate cellar hygiene, and unwavering confidence in the wine's natural stability. The result is a portfolio of wines that are honest, vibrant, and deeply expressive of the Val Tidone terroir — from the iconic cloudy pét-nat "O" to the complex skin-contact Malvasia, each a testament to the power of minimal intervention.
The techniques are demanding, traditional, and deeply rooted in the history of the Colli Piacentini:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's 20 hectares of certified organic vineyards. Lodovica and Martina monitor each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness. Every operation is conducted with the precision that only dedicated vignerons can provide. The grapes for each label are harvested at optimal maturity, ensuring that every wine expresses the full potential of its specific variety and site.
"O" — The Ortrugo Pét-Nat: The "O" is Lusenti Vini's signature wine — a cloudy, naturally fizzy pét-nat made from 100% Ortrugo, the native white grape of the Colli Piacentini. It is a wine that encapsulates the estate's entire philosophy: indigenous yeasts, bottle fermentation, zero added sulfur, unfined, unfiltered, and utterly authentic. In the glass, it is hazy and alive — a fragrant, cloudy elixir that captures the raw spirit of Val Tidone. The nose is vibrant with citrus, white flowers, and a distinct yeasty, bread-dough character from the bottle fermentation. The palate is fresh, textured, and effervescent, with a crisp acidity and a mineral finish that speaks of the clay-limestone soils. It is a wine of immediate joy and profound honesty — proof that the most traditional methods, when executed with skill and passion, can produce wines of genuine modern relevance. The "O" is not a novelty; it is a restoration of what was always meant to be.
Ortrugo — The Region's Signature White: Beyond the pét-nat, Lusenti produces a still Ortrugo that showcases the variety's natural crisp acidity and fresh, lively character. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts and aged with minimal intervention, it is a wine of bright citrus, almond, and a distinct saline finish. It is the everyday white that proves simplicity and authenticity can be profound — a wine that belongs on every table in the Colli Piacentini and beyond. It is fresh, vibrant, and immediately drinkable, yet capable of surprising depth when paired with the region's rich cuisine.
Malvasia di Candia — Dry & Sweet: The winery makes both a dry and a sweet version of this extraordinarily aromatic grape. The dry Malvasia is often made with extended skin contact, resulting in complex, textured "orange" wines that challenge preconceptions and reward curiosity. The sweet version captures the grape's natural honeyed richness, producing a dessert wine of extraordinary fragrance and elegance. Both versions are fermented spontaneously, aged with patience, and bottled without fining or filtration. The Malvasia di Candia is a variety of extraordinary potential — intensely aromatic, with notes of white flowers, peach, apricot, and a subtle spiciness that makes it utterly distinctive. In Lodovica and Martina's hands, it achieves a depth and character that few producers in the region can match.
Vino Rosso — Barbera & Bonarda: The Vino Rosso is a classic blend of Barbera and Bonarda, the traditional red pairing of the Colli Piacentini. It is a fresh, fruit-forward wine that is perfect for everyday drinking — ruby-purple in color, rich with notes of ripe red fruits, plum, and a subtle earthy undertone. The Barbera contributes its hallmark vibrant acidity, while the Bonarda adds depth, softness, and a certain rustic charm. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts and aged in neutral vessels, it is a wine of immediate pleasure and surprising complexity — the approachable, joyful face of the estate's red philosophy, yet deeply rooted in the traditions of the region.
Skin-Contact Whites & Amphora Experiments: Martina's experimental line pushes the boundaries of what Colli Piacentini whites can be. Extended skin contact transforms the aromatic Malvasia and Ortrugo into textured, tannic, complex "orange" wines that challenge the palate and expand the region's vinous vocabulary. Stoneware amphorae — introduced by Martina as part of her fascination with abandoned techniques — provide a neutral, breathable vessel that allows the wines to develop slowly and purely, without the influence of oak or stainless steel. These are wines for the curious, the adventurous, and those who believe that tradition is not a cage but a foundation for exploration.
Ageing & Bottling: The estate's approach to ageing is deliberately patient and non-intrusive. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a variety of vessels — stainless steel tanks for freshness, old wood for subtle complexity, concrete for mineral purity, and stoneware amphorae for Martina's experimental line. There is no new oak dominance, no toast or vanilla excess — only the gift of time and the unique character of each vessel. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration, preserving their natural textures and flavors. Sulfur is used sparingly, if at all — many wines are bottled with zero added sulfites. The result is wines that are pure, honest, and unmistakably Lusenti — alive, evolving, and deeply rooted in the Val Tidone terroir.
"O" — "Cloudy Ortrugo Pét-Nat, Bottle-Fermented, Indigenous Yeasts, Zero Added Sulfur, Unfined & Unfiltered — The Signature Wine, The Boldest Tradition"
The "O" is Lusenti Vini's most distinctive and celebrated wine — a cloudy, naturally fizzy pét-nat made from 100% Ortrugo, the native white grape of the Colli Piacentini. It is not merely a wine; it is a manifesto, a restoration of tradition in an age of industrial convenience, and proof that going against the tide can produce something truly extraordinary.
When Lodovica first produced her single-variety, cloudy, bottle-fermented wines in 2009, the people of Piacenza called it a "well-executed novelty." But bottle-fermented wines had always existed in the region — they were simply overshadowed by the Charmat method, which was cleaner, clearer, and more commercially convenient. Lodovica refused to let industrial progress erase tradition. She bottled a fragrant, cloudy elixir that captured the raw, unfiltered spirit of her terroir, and in doing so, she created the wine that would define her estate.
The grapes come from the estate's certified organic vineyards in Val Tidone, on the clay-limestone hills of the Colli Piacentini. The vines are cultivated without chemical pesticides, herbicides, or synthetic fertilizers, with meticulous manual care and a focus on biodiversity. The harvest is entirely by hand, with rigorous selection of only the healthiest, most aromatic bunches. In the cellar, the grapes are gently pressed and the must is transferred to bottle with its indigenous yeasts — no commercial strains, no temperature control, no enzymes. Fermentation completes in the bottle, creating a natural, gentle effervescence that is alive and ever-changing.
In the glass, it is hazy and golden — unfiltered, unfined, and utterly honest. The nose is vibrant and complex — citrus peel, white flowers, green apple, and a distinct yeasty, bread-dough character that speaks of the bottle fermentation. There are notes of almond, herbs, and a subtle minerality that reflects the clay-limestone soils. The palate is fresh, textured, and effervescent, with a crisp acidity, a gentle mousse, and a long, saline finish that lingers and invites another sip. This is not a sterile, industrial sparkling wine; it is a living, evolving expression of Ortrugo, of Val Tidone, and of the Lusenti family's refusal to compromise.
The "O" demands to be drunk fresh and joyfully — by the sea at sunset, surrounded by friends, with an infectious soundtrack and no pretension. It is the wine that carries the legacy of Lodovica's bold return to the land and Martina's experimental spirit. Serve well-chilled, with seafood, light pasta dishes, or simply on its own as an aperitif. This is the wine that proves tradition is not a cage but a foundation for authenticity — and that going against the tide is, indeed, a gift. ~$16–$24 / ~€14–€22.
The Lusenti Vini Range
Lodovica and Martina Lusenti produce an artisanal, organic portfolio from their 20 hectares of certified organic vineyards in Ziano Piacentino, Val Tidone, Colli Piacentini, Emilia-Romagna. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, unfined, unfiltered, and crafted with minimal to zero intervention. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. Many wines are made with zero added sulfur. The portfolio is divided into two lines: Lodovica's traditional, reflective line and Martina's experimental, contemporary line. Annual production: approximately 100,000 bottles. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.