Between Reality & Madness
Manuel Pulcini is a young, passionate natural wine producer in the province of Lucca, Tuscany — a Roman by birth who became Pisan by adoption, and who has found his true home among the abandoned vineyards of the Lucchese hills. Founded in 2016, his "Land Recovery" project is a mission to restore forgotten vineyard parcels, primarily around the village of San Macario a Monte, and to produce wines that are "almost in balance between reality and madness, between concrete and abstract." Manuel studied enology in Pisa and worked in prestigious Tuscan wineries before becoming disillusioned with conventional winemaking. Drawn to biodynamic farming and natural fermentation, he now follows the dictates of biodynamic agriculture across approximately 2.5 hectares, with no chemical products in the vineyard, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and a back-to-basics, no-frills approach that honors ancient traditions. Known affectionately by locals as the "amico dei nonni" — friend of the grandpas — Manuel is a vigneron who respects the elders, their knowledge, and the land they once cultivated.
The Friend of the Grandpas
Manuel Pulcini is a Roman by birth, but his soul belongs to Tuscany. From childhood, his life revolved around the world of wine — helping his parents in the cellar on the outskirts of Rome, absorbing the rhythms of fermentation, harvest, and the changing seasons. This early immersion shaped him profoundly, but it was not until he moved to Pisa to study enology that his path truly began to take shape. In the classrooms and cellars of Tuscany, Manuel learned the technical foundations of winemaking — but he also began to question the conventions he was being taught.
After completing his studies, Manuel worked in several prestigious Tuscan wineries — places of reputation, tradition, and commercial success. But the more he worked within the conventional system, the more disillusioned he became. The chemical interventions, the standardized protocols, the loss of individuality in favor of market appeal — all of this grated against his instincts. He was drawn instead to the principles of biodynamic farming and natural fermentation, to a way of making wine that honored the land rather than manipulating it. In 2016, he made the decisive choice: he would start his own project, not by buying prime vineyard land, but by renting and restoring abandoned vineyards — a "Land Recovery" initiative that would give new life to forgotten parcels and forgotten grapes.
The project is centered around the village of San Macario a Monte, in the province of Lucca — a landscape of rolling hills, ancient olive groves, and vineyard parcels that had been left to grow wild after their elderly owners could no longer tend them. Manuel approached these abandoned plots with the respect of an archaeologist and the passion of a lover — clearing the weeds, restoring the vines, and learning from the old farmers who still remembered how these vineyards were once cultivated. The locals quickly took to him, giving him the affectionate nickname "amico dei nonni" — friend of the grandpas — a nod to his genuine respect for the region's elders and their traditional knowledge. This is not mere sentimentality; it is practical wisdom. The old contadini know things that cannot be found in textbooks — the microclimates of each slope, the behavior of each variety, the signs that indicate when to harvest and when to wait.
Manuel's wines are described as existing "tra realtà e follia, tra concreto ed astratto" — between reality and madness, between concrete and abstract. This is not marketing language; it is an honest description of what happens when a young vigneron, trained in the conventions of modern enology, decides to follow his instincts into the unknown. The wines are unpredictable, alive, and deeply personal — each one a reflection of the specific vineyard, the specific vintage, and the specific choices made in the cellar. The labels, adorned with striking artistic portraits and bold typography, reflect this spirit: they are not traditional wine labels; they are statements of identity, declarations of independence, invitations to enter a world where wine is not a product but an act of creation.
"Il ritorno alla natura in questa folle società globalizzata, l'uomo che riscopre gli antichi valori del passato e ritorna a lavorare la terra, l'atto di creazione di una bevanda nobile con solo il sudore della fronte e forza di volontà. Questi sono gli elementi che ispirano i vini di Manuel Pulcini, queste le caratteristiche che si trovano in un bicchiere del suo vino, quasi in bilico tra realtà e follia, tra concreto ed astratto."
— ApeTime Magazine
Lucca Hills & Land Recovery
Manuel Pulcini's vineyards are located in the province of Lucca, Tuscany, primarily around the village of San Macario a Monte — a landscape of extraordinary agricultural richness that has, in recent decades, seen many of its vineyard parcels abandoned as elderly farmers retired and younger generations moved to the cities. The "Land Recovery" project is Manuel's response to this decline: a systematic effort to identify, rent, restore, and cultivate these forgotten vineyards, bringing them back into production and preserving the genetic heritage of the old vines that still cling to life among the weeds. It is a form of agricultural archaeology — a rescue mission for vines, knowledge, and a way of life that is in danger of disappearing.
The farming follows the dictates of biodynamic agriculture across approximately 2.5 hectares — a small but intensively cared-for area that allows Manuel to give each vineyard the individual attention it requires. No chemical products touch the soil: no synthetic pesticides, no herbicides, no industrial fertilizers. The focus is on soil vitality, biodiversity, and the natural balance of the vineyard ecosystem. Biodynamic preparations are used to enhance soil health and plant resilience, and the lunar calendar guides many of the vineyard operations. The result is a farming system that is not merely sustainable but regenerative — one that improves the land with each passing season and creates conditions for the vines to express their full potential.
The grape varieties reflect the history of the abandoned parcels Manuel has recovered — a mix of indigenous Tuscan grapes and well-adapted international varieties that were planted by previous generations. Sangiovese is the backbone, the defining red grape of Tuscany, found in nearly every recovered parcel. Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo are native companions — varieties that have grown alongside Sangiovese for centuries, contributing softness, fragrance, and complexity to the blends. Trebbiano and Malvasia form the white wine foundation — the classic Tuscan white duo, adapted to the Lucchese climate and soil. Vermentino adds aromatic complexity and a coastal freshness. And among the international varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Alicante appear in the old vineyards — remnants of past experiments, now integrated into Manuel's natural winemaking philosophy and given new expression through minimal intervention.
The landscape of San Macario a Monte is one of extraordinary beauty and agricultural diversity — olive groves, vineyards, woodland, and wild scrub intermingle in a patchwork that has been shaped by centuries of human cultivation. The elevation provides cool nights that preserve acidity, while the southern exposure ensures full phenolic ripeness. The soils are a mix of clay, limestone, and alluvial deposits — complex terroir that gives wines of structure, minerality, and depth. Each recovered parcel has its own character, its own microclimate, its own story — and Manuel honors these differences by vinifying separately, allowing each vineyard to speak in its own voice.
Systematic effort to identify, rent, restore, and cultivate abandoned vineyard parcels around San Macario a Monte. Agricultural archaeology — rescue mission for vines, knowledge, and way of life. Old vines cleared of weeds, restored to production. Genetic heritage preserved. Elderly farmers' traditional knowledge honored and recorded.
~2.5 hectares farmed biodynamically. No chemical products — no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or industrial fertilizers. Biodynamic preparations for soil health and plant resilience. Lunar calendar guides operations. Regenerative agriculture — land improves each season. Soil vitality and biodiversity as priorities. Individual attention to each parcel.
Indigenous: Sangiovese (backbone), Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermentino. International (from old plantings): Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Alicante. All recovered from abandoned parcels. Each variety adapted to specific Lucchese conditions. Vinified separately to preserve individual character. Genetic heritage of old vines preserved.
San Macario a Monte, province of Lucca. Rolling hills, ancient olive groves, woodland. Cool nights preserve acidity; southern exposure drives ripeness. Clay, limestone, alluvial soils — complex mineral backbone. Each parcel has distinct microclimate and character. Landscape of extraordinary agricultural diversity and beauty.
Spontaneous Fermentation & No Frills
At Manuel Pulcini, the cellar philosophy is one of back-to-basics minimalism — a no-frills approach that honors ancient traditions and allows the wine to express the specific character of each recovered vineyard. The guiding principle is simple: the wine must be the mirror of the territory where it is produced, modulated in its nuances by the course of the seasons. In the cellar, Manuel gently coaxes his wines through natural fermentations and elaborates them without chemical and technical "artifices." This is not a rejection of knowledge; it is a commitment to using knowledge in service of nature rather than in opposition to it. The result is a portfolio of wines that are honest, complex, approachable, and deeply expressive of the Lucchese hills.
The techniques are varied and experimental, shaped by Manuel's curiosity and his desire to explore the full potential of each grape and each parcel:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's recovered biodynamic vineyards. Manuel monitors each parcel daily, tasting berries and waiting for the optimal moment of phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness. The separation between parcels and varieties is maintained throughout the process, ensuring that each wine expresses the distinct character of its specific origin. Some varieties are harvested early to preserve acidity and freshness; others are left longer to develop full maturity and complexity.
"Marròca" — The White: The Marròca is Manuel's most celebrated white wine — a blend that captures the essence of the Lucchese hills in a bottle of extraordinary character and complexity. The name comes from local Tuscan mythology: Marròca was an aloof but dangerous being who lurked in nearby wells, and parents warned their children she would kidnap those who ventured too close. Now that we are all of drinking age, we can gladly fall into — and for — this wine's bewitching qualities. The blend is mostly Trebbiano (75%) together with Malvasia, Vermentino, and other white varieties found in the recovered parcels. Part of the Malvasia is macerated for 10 days, conferring structure and infinite food-matching possibilities. The wine matures in stainless steel for around six months. The color is clear straw-yellow with yellow reflections. The nose has distinct white and yellow floral notes on a slightly saline background. The palate has a flavorful progression with a lovely brackish note and a light smoky hint in the aftertaste — a satisfying, flavorful, and nervous drop. Water is the element that defines this wine — as opposed to fire, air, and earth — giving it a fluid, mineral, almost aquatic character. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.
"Vizioramingo" — The Red: The Vizioramingo is Manuel's flagship red — a wine whose name means "Vagabond Vice," reflecting Manuel's journey from parcel to parcel like an old ramingo (vagabond, tramp) in pursuit of the most noble vizio (vice). The blend is approximately 75% Sangiovese, supplemented with Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon — all harvested from the recovered vineyard parcels. The harmony they produce is beautiful: sustained but not overpowering, soft and balanced with a velvety robe. The nose is peppery, with splashes of black cherry and dark plum. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins, vibrant acidity, and a delicate, lingering finish. Some of the wine sees time in old oak barrels, adding subtle complexity without overwhelming the fruit. This is a wine of balance and elegance — a wine that proves natural winemaking can produce reds of both immediacy and depth. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.
"Pista Mutta" — The Rosato: The Pista Mutta — whose name refers to the original method of "pista mutta" (crushed by foot) — is Manuel's rosé, made from a saignée of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The grapes are crushed whole with the feet, macerated for 12 hours, then directly pressed. This is the original, ancestral method of making rosé — a technique that extracts just enough color and flavor from the skins to give the wine its delicate pink hue and fresh, fruity character. The result is a wine of extraordinary vibrancy and immediacy: wild strawberry, raspberry, rose petal, and citrus zest dance on the nose, while the palate is crisp, refreshing, and mineral — a wine of summer afternoons and simple pleasures. Serve well chilled. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.
"Attenzione Volatili" — The Orange Wine: The Attenzione Volatili — "Beware of Volatiles" — is Manuel's orange wine, a striking cuvée made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante, and Malvasia. The Cabernet Sauvignon is harvested early, before full maturity, and pressed directly as whole bunches without skin contact, then fermented separately. Meanwhile, the Malvasia and a small quantity of Alicante undergo brief maceration on the skins and are co-fermented together. The two components are then blended, creating a wine of extraordinary complexity and tension — the fresh, crisp character of early-harvested Cabernet married to the textured, tannic depth of skin-contact Malvasia and Alicante. The result is amber-orange, hazy and alive, with aromas of dried apricot, orange peel, wild herbs, and a distinct mineral backbone. The palate is structured, savory, and endlessly fascinating — a wine that demands attention and rewards patience. Serve at 12–14°C. ~$24–$34 / ~€22–€31.
"Bercio" — The Fresh White: The Bercio is Manuel's freshest, most approachable white — a blend of Vermentino, Trebbiano, and Malvasia that is all about acidity, brightness, and immediate pleasure. The name evokes a local place or character, grounding the wine in the specific geography of the Lucchese hills. The grapes are hand-harvested, gently pressed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel. The result is a wine of crystalline purity — green apple, lemon zest, white flowers, and a crisp, mouthwatering acidity that makes it perfect as an aperitif or with light seafood dishes. It is "acidino fresco" — a little acidic, a little fresh — exactly what you want on a hot Tuscan afternoon. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. ~$16–$24 / ~€14–€22.
"Le Déjeuner des Gottars" — The Special Cuvée: Le Déjeuner des Gottars is Manuel's special cuvée — a wine of limited production and extraordinary character, named with a playful reference to the "gottars" (local dialect for something or someone rustic, perhaps). This is a wine that showcases the full range of Manuel's experimental spirit: different fermentation techniques, different vessels, different blending proportions, all guided by intuition and the specific qualities of the vintage. The exact composition varies by year, but the result is always a wine of depth, complexity, and unmistakable personality — a wine that captures the essence of the Land Recovery project in its most concentrated form. ~$26–$36 / ~€24–€33.
Vessels & Ageing: Manuel works with a mix of old oak barrels and stainless steel tanks — a varied approach that allows him to choose the vessel that best allows each wine to express its unique character without being overshadowed. Stainless steel is used for the fresher, more immediate wines like Bercio and Marròca — preserving purity, preventing oxidation, and allowing the fruit to shine. Old oak barrels are used for the more structured reds like Vizioramingo — adding subtle complexity, softening tannins, and developing depth without introducing the flavors of new wood. The choice of vessel is always deliberate, always in service of the wine's natural expression. All wines are unfined and unfiltered, with minimal or no added sulfites, preserving their natural textures, living yeasts, and authentic flavors.
"Marròca" — "75% Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermentino — 10-Day Malvasia Maceration, Stainless Steel Ageing, Indigenous Yeasts, Unfined, Unfiltered — The Bewitching Water-Wine of Lucca"
The Marròca is Manuel Pulcini's most celebrated and distinctive wine — a white blend of extraordinary character and complexity that encapsulates everything Manuel believes about natural winemaking, Land Recovery, and the transformative power of patience and respect. It is not merely a white wine; it is a mythological experience in liquid form, a wine named for a local spirit who lurked in wells, and a testament to the bewitching qualities that can emerge when indigenous varieties are farmed biodynamically and made with minimal intervention.
The name "Marròca" comes from local Tuscan mythology — an aloof but dangerous being who lurked in nearby wells, and parents warned their children she would kidnap those who ventured too close. But now that we are all of drinking age, we can gladly fall into — and for — this wine's bewitching qualities. The label, adorned with a striking watercolor portrait of a blue-haired woman emerging from watery depths, captures this mythological essence — a wine that is fluid, mysterious, and slightly dangerous in its beauty.
The grapes come from Manuel's recovered biodynamic vineyards around San Macario a Monte — mostly Trebbiano (75%) together with Malvasia, Vermentino, and other white varieties found in the abandoned parcels. The viticulture is biodynamic: no chemical products, no synthetic interventions, only the natural vitality of the soil and the local ecosystem. The harvest is entirely by hand, with rigorous selection of only the healthiest bunches. In the cellar, the grapes are gently pressed and the must is transferred to stainless steel tanks, where spontaneous fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts.
The defining technique is the 10-day maceration of part of the Malvasia on its skins — a period of extended skin contact that extracts color, tannin, and phenolic compounds, transforming the wine from a simple white into something structured, textured, and infinitely food-friendly. This is not an orange wine in the conventional sense; it is a white wine with body, with grip, with a savory complexity that makes it a perfect companion for a wide range of dishes. After fermentation, the wine matures in stainless steel for around six months, preserving its freshness and purity.
In the glass, it is clear straw-yellow with yellow reflections. The nose is distinct and evolving: white and yellow floral notes — jasmine, chamomile, honeysuckle — on a slightly saline, almost brackish background. There are notes of nectarine, citrus zest, and a light smoky hint that speaks of the skin contact and the indigenous yeasts. The palate has a flavorful progression: crisp acidity, textured mouthfeel, lovely brackish minerality, and a long, satisfying finish with a touch of smoke in the aftertaste. Water is the element that defines this wine — as opposed to fire, air, and earth — giving it a fluid, mineral, almost aquatic character that is unique in the world of Tuscan whites.
The Marròca is a wine of the table — it pairs beautifully with seafood, grilled vegetables, light pasta dishes, aged cheeses, or simply with good bread and olive oil. Serve at 10–12°C. It will develop more honeyed, nutty, and oxidative complexity with 2–3 years of ageing. Every bottle is a testament to the power of Land Recovery, the beauty of indigenous varieties, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the land without excessive intervention. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.
The Manuel Pulcini Range
Manuel Pulcini produces a small, artisanal portfolio from his recovered biodynamic vineyards around San Macario a Monte, province of Lucca, Tuscany. All wines are made from estate-grown or recovered grapes, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered. No commercial yeasts, no chemical additives, no heavy filtration. Sulfur is kept to a minimum or not used at all. The portfolio spans whites, reds, rosés, and orange wines — each one an honest, experimental expression of the Lucchese hills and the Land Recovery project. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.