Unchained & Unafraid

Martin Obenaus's story begins in Glaubendorf, a village in the Weinviertel region of Lower Austria, known locally as "Locus Fidei" — the Place of Faith. It is a landscape of rolling hills, loess soils, and ancient winegrowing traditions, where the continental climate brings hot summers, cold winters, and the diurnal temperature shifts that preserve acidity and aromatic intensity in the grapes. Martin is a young, dynamic winemaker — bearded, energetic, often seen in a cap with his arms crossed — who has become inextricably linked to his vineyards. His passion is reflected not in words alone, but in a seductive range of wines that challenge conventions and celebrate the freedom of nature unchained.

The decision to work biodynamically was a logical consequence of Martin's philosophy, not a marketing strategy. For years, he had been treating his vines and the soil with respect, evaluating and serving their individual needs thoroughly. Official conversion to Demeter biodynamic certification began in 2018, though biodynamic practices had been in place since 2012. The certification — AT-BIO-401 — is the formal recognition of a way of working that Martin had already embraced: less intervention, more observation, supporting natural balance rather than forcing it. "Should we not take a look back into the past in order to remain fit for the future?" he asks — a question that guides every decision in the vineyard and the cellar.

Martin's path to wine was not inherited but chosen. He is an activist — full of energy, an artisan who does his stuff himself. "If you do your stuff yourself, you don't have to buy it and you can also develop a personal connection to the piece," he says. This DIY ethos extends to every aspect of the estate: he helped design the kettle for the teas he brings out in the vineyards. He uses a "worm box" in which worms and bacteria convert vegetables into highly effective compost earth, which he blends into compost tea and sprays on his vineyards. He builds his own insect hotels — designed for harboring those indispensable little helpers — and places them in suitable locations throughout the vineyards. Biodiversity, flora, and fauna are not buzzwords but the key to his philosophy and to biodynamics.

The wild hare with antlers — the "jackalope" — is Martin's emblem and the face of every bottle. It is a creature of myth, of imagination, of the freedom to be something other than what nature strictly dictates. On the playful "MO:" line, the hare appears with green antlers (MO:Weiß), red antlers (MO:Rot), and pink antlers (MO:Rosé). On the serious "Unchained" line, it appears in stark black and white, sometimes with a moon, sometimes with a sun — a symbol of the cosmic rhythms that govern biodynamic farming. The hare is Martin's alter ego: wild, free, creative, unchained from convention, yet deeply rooted in the earth.

Martin Obenaus's cellar philosophy is perfectly captured by his motto: "less is more and timing is everything." In an era when modern food industries have infiltrated the wine business — with additives for color stability, acids for balance, industrial yeasts for consistency, sugar for alcohol, fining agents for clarity, and filtration for sterility — Martin has chosen the opposite path. He does not optimize until "system" is the only thing that remains of "ecosystem." Instead, he lets natural medicine treat the symptoms caused by the previous "medicine." He compares today's "modern" economy and working methods with those of our grandparents' generation, noting that the latter treated their resources with more respect and in a way that preserved them for the next generation. "A clever farmer always thinks about the future."

The winemaking is minimal, respectful, and deeply informed by the estate's biodynamic philosophy. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with wild yeasts — no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. The wines are neither fined nor filtered, preserving their natural textures, living yeasts, and authentic flavors. Sulfur is kept to an absolute minimum. The result is a portfolio of wines that are alive, authentic, and deeply connected to the place from which they come — wines that carry the imprint of the Weinviertel's loess soils, the continental climate, and Martin's conviction that wine should be natural, honest, and unafraid.

"MO:Weiß" — The Playful White: The MO:Weiß is Martin's entry-level white — a lean, flinty expression with very little intervention, made primarily from Grüner Veltliner with possible additions of Riesling and Müller-Thurgau. The "MO:" line is playful, approachable, and designed for immediate pleasure — wines that say "don't be afraid" with every sip. Organic, biodynamic, vegan, natural, low sulphite. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, unfined, unfiltered. In the glass, it is pale straw with green reflections and a natural haze. The nose offers green apple, citrus, white pepper, and a distinct mineral, herbal note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, a clean, precise mouthfeel, and a long, refreshing, mineral finish. It is a wine of joy — natural, fresh, alive. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink young. ~€12–€18 / ~$14–$20.

"MO:Rot" — The Playful Red: The MO:Rot is Martin's entry-level red — a juicy, approachable wine made from Zweigelt and possibly other red varieties. Like its white counterpart, it carries the wild hare with red antlers on its label — a symbol of energy, passion, and the freedom to enjoy wine without pretension. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, unfined, unfiltered. In the glass, it is ruby with garnet reflections. The nose offers red cherry, plum, wild herbs, and a subtle mineral note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with soft tannins, lively acidity, and a clean, refreshing, fruit-driven finish. It is a wine for everyday pleasure — honest, unfiltered, alive. Serve at 14–16°C. Drink within 2–3 years. ~€12–€18 / ~$14–$20.

"MO:Rosé" — The Playful Pink: The MO:Rosé is Martin's playful pink — a wine made for sunny afternoons, festive tables, and the simple pleasure of sharing. The hare appears with pink antlers on the label, a wink to those who take wine too seriously. Hand-harvested, gently pressed, spontaneously fermented, aged in steel. In the glass, it is salmon-pink with luminous clarity. The nose offers strawberry, rose petal, citrus, and a subtle mineral note. The palate is light, with crisp acidity, a clean, refreshing mouthfeel, and a long, savory finish. It is a wine of celebration — natural, fresh, unchained. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink young. ~€12–€18 / ~$14–$20.

"Unchained Locus Fidei" — The Terroir White: The Unchained Locus Fidei is Martin's serious, terroir-driven white — a wine that captures the essence of Glaubendorf, the Place of Faith, in every bottle. Made from Grüner Veltliner and possibly other white varieties, it is the flagship of the "Unchained" line: more structured, more complex, more contemplative than the playful "MO:" wines. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, aged on lees for extended periods, unfined, unfiltered. In the glass, it is straw yellow with golden reflections and a natural haze. The nose offers intense white pepper, ripe peach, dried herbs, and a profound mineral, smoky note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with textured mouthfeel, vibrant acidity, and a long, layered, savory finish. It is a wine of depth and place — for those who seek the soul of the Weinviertel. Serve at 10–12°C. Ages 5–10 years. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28.

"Unchained Stein Holz" — The Stone & Wood: The Unchained Stein Holz is Martin's expression of the interplay between stone (stein) and wood (holz) — a wine that explores the tension between mineral terroir and the subtle influence of oak ageing. The name suggests a dialogue between the vineyard and the cellar, between nature and human craft. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, aged in a mix of vessels — possibly including amphora, concrete, and older oak. In the glass, it is golden yellow with luminous intensity. The nose offers citrus, white flowers, almond, and a distinct mineral, smoky note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with creamy texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, slightly nutty finish. It is a wine of intellectual and sensory depth — for those who seek something truly unique. Serve at 10–12°C. Ages 5–10 years. ~€20–€28 / ~$22–$30.

"Unchained Roter Veltliner" — The Heritage White: The Unchained Roter Veltliner is Martin's tribute to an ancient, nearly forgotten variety — Roter Veltliner, a red-skinned white grape that was once common in the Weinviertel but has nearly disappeared. By reviving this heritage variety, Martin is not only preserving biodiversity but also exploring a flavor profile that is unlike anything else in his portfolio. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, possibly with some skin contact to extract color and tannin from the red skins, aged in neutral vessels. In the glass, it is copper-amber with hazy, luminous intensity. The nose offers dried apricot, orange peel, wild honey, and a distinct mineral, earthy note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with gripping texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, tannic finish. It is a wine of memory and mission — proof that tradition, when honored with modern understanding, can produce something both timeless and contemporary. Serve at 10–12°C. Ages 5–10 years. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28.

"Unchained Rot" — The Serious Red: The Unchained Rot is Martin's top-tier red — a wine of structure, depth, and ageing potential that represents the absolute peak of his red program. Made from Zweigelt and possibly other red varieties, it is hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, macerated with care, and aged for extended periods in older oak or other vessels. Unfined, unfiltered, minimal sulfur. In the glass, it is deep ruby with garnet reflections. The nose offers intense dark cherry, blackberry, wild herbs, graphite, and a smoky, earthy mineral note. The palate is full-bodied, with structured tannins, electric acidity, and a finish that unfolds in layers — savory, spicy, mineral, deeply satisfying. It is a wine for the cellar and the contemplative drinker. Serve at 16–18°C. Ages 5–10 years. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28.

Vessels & Ageing: Martin works with a variety of vessels, each chosen to serve the wine's natural expression rather than impose a house style. Stainless steel tanks preserve freshness and primary fruit — essential for the playful "MO:" line. Older oak barrels provide slow micro-oxygenation and the development of complex tertiary aromas without masking the terroir with wood flavor — perfect for the serious "Unchained" wines. Amphora and concrete allow for the purest, most unadorned expression of fruit and mineral character — part of Martin's ongoing exploration of ancient and modern techniques. The common thread is restraint: no new oak to dominate, no additives to correct, no manipulation to standardize. Just the grape, the yeast, the vessel, and time. Extended lees contact builds texture and savory depth. No fining, no filtration. Minimal sulfur. The result is a portfolio of wines that are unmistakably Martin Obenaus — natural, fresh, alive, deeply connected to the loess soils of Glaubendorf, and to Martin's conviction that the best wines come from unchaining nature rather than controlling it.