The Rotterdam Sommelier, the Surfboard & the Van Called Bennie
Niloufar Sharifi Esfarani is one of the most exciting new voices in Catalan natural wine — a Rotterdam-born, surf-obsessed former sommelier who traded her wine list for a surfboard, her restaurant for a vineyard, and her hometown for the foothills of Montserrat. After cutting her teeth at De Matroos en Het Meisje — one of Rotterdam's most celebrated restaurants — she left everything behind to travel Europe's West coast with her surfboard and her van, Bennie. A harvest in the Médoc changed her life. Stints at Reyneke in Stellenbosch (biodynamic) and Nibiru in Kamptal (zero-addition) forged her philosophy. In 2023, she landed in the Alt Penedès, rented two plots in the shadow of Montserrat's jagged peaks, and began making wines that are bold, bright, and full of character — just like the winemaker herself. Her motto is simple and unapologetic: "always made without crap."
The Rotterdam Sommelier, the Surfboard & the Zero-Addition Hand
Niloufar Sharifi Esfarani is not a winemaker who inherited a family estate or studied enology at a prestigious university. She is a self-made force of nature — a woman who built her winemaking career from curiosity, courage, and an irrepressible desire to be outside. Born and raised in Rotterdam, she began her career not in a vineyard but behind a wine list — as a sommelier at De Matroos en Het Meisje, one of the Netherlands' most celebrated restaurants. There, she developed the palate, the knowledge, and the confidence that would later serve her in the cellar. But the restaurant world, for all its pleasures, could not contain her.
At a young age, Niloufar made a decision that would alter the course of her life: she left her career as a sommelier behind. With her surfboard in hand, she set off to travel the West coast of Europe — not as a tourist, but as a seeker. She was looking for something she could not name, something that existed beyond the walls of restaurants and the pages of wine lists. And she found it — or rather, it found her — in the Médoc, France, where she helped with the harvest of a Dutch winemaker just 25 minutes from her favourite surf spot. It was there, between the vines and the waves, that she realised her passion for wine extended far beyond serving it. She wanted to create it.
What followed was a global apprenticeship that reads like a map of the natural wine world. Dissatisfied with conventional winemaking, Niloufar sought out the most radical practitioners she could find. In Stellenbosch, South Africa, she worked at Reyneke — one of the Cape's pioneering biodynamic estates — where she learned the rhythms of biodynamic viticulture: the lunar calendar, the compost preparations, the recognition that the vineyard is a living organism. That same year, she travelled to Kamptal, Austria, to work at Nibiru — a winery committed to making wines without any additions whatsoever. No sulfites. No selected yeasts. No enzymes. No corrections. Only grape, time, and intention. It was here that Niloufar's philosophy crystallised: wine should be honest, pure, and unmediated — a direct translation of grape and place into liquid.
After gaining several years of experience across three continents, Niloufar was ready for the next step. As a travelling winemaker, she set off through Europe in her trusted van, Bennie — a vehicle that became her home, her cellar, and her symbol of freedom. The journey led her to the Alt Penedès, in the foothills of the legendary Montserrat mountain, where she rented two plots and began producing her own wines in 2023. The first cuvées — Pink Moon, Mitja Lluna, and Last Dance — were the result of a deeply rooted belief in natural wine and a commitment to organic, biodynamic, and regenerative farming. Today, Niloufar produces a growing portfolio of still and sparkling wines, both from her own rented vineyards and from carefully sourced local fruit, all united by a single, unapologetic principle: "always made without crap."
Alt Penedès, the Montserrat Foothills & the Mediterranean Hand
The Alt Penedès is the upper, inland half of Catalonia's most important wine region — a landscape of rolling hills, calcareous soils, and ancient viticultural tradition that stretches from the Mediterranean coast toward the jagged peaks of Montserrat. For Niloufar, the Alt Penedès is not merely a terroir but a stage — a place where the drama of Montserrat's serrated silhouette provides the backdrop for a winemaking project that is as much about personal transformation as it is about grape transformation. The mountain, with its Benedictine monastery perched impossibly on its peaks, has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. For Niloufar, it is a place of arrival — the end of a long journey that began in Rotterdam and passed through France, South Africa, and Austria.
Niloufar rents two plots in the foothills of Montserrat — vineyards that she farms with the same biodynamic and regenerative principles she learned at Reyneke and Nibiru. The soils are calcareous clay and limestone — a combination that retains moisture in the dry Catalan summers, provides minerals to the vines, and imparts a distinctive freshness and structure to the wines. The elevation, in the shadow of Montserrat, creates a cooler microclimate than the lower Penedès, preserving acidity and aromatic complexity in a way that flat, coastal vineyards cannot match. The diurnal temperature variation — hot days, cool nights — is the secret weapon of the Alt Penedès, and Niloufar has learned to harness it.
In addition to her own rented plots, Niloufar works with carefully sourced local fruit from growers who share her commitment to organic and regenerative farming. This dual approach — estate fruit and sourced fruit — gives her a palette of terroirs and varieties that extends beyond her own vineyards. The Xarel·lo comes from old vines on calcareous soils. The Garnacha comes from sun-drenched slopes. The Tempranillo comes from cooler, higher parcels. And the Moscatel de Alejandría and Hárslevelű — the latter a Hungarian variety rarely seen in Catalonia — come from experimental plantings that reflect Niloufar's refusal to accept the boundaries of conventional viticulture. Together, these grapes form a portfolio that is as diverse as her journey, as bold as her personality, and as honest as her philosophy.
The Alt Penedès is the upper, inland portion of the Penedès wine region — a landscape of rolling hills, calcareous soils, and cooler temperatures that produces wines of greater freshness, structure, and aromatic complexity than the coastal Baix Penedès. It is the heartland of Xarel·lo, the grape that defines Catalan white wine, and a region with a long tradition of both still wine and Cava production. For Niloufar, the Alt Penedès offered something that no other region could: proximity to Barcelona, a thriving natural wine community, affordable land to rent, and the dramatic presence of Montserrat as a daily reminder that wine is about more than commerce — it is about place, spirit, and transformation.
Montserrat is one of Catalonia's most iconic landmarks — a multi-peaked mountain range of bizarrely shaped rock formations, home to the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Montserrat and the famous Black Madonna. For centuries, it has been a place of pilgrimage, prayer, and artistic inspiration. For Niloufar, Montserrat is a daily presence — the mountain that watches over her vineyards, the silhouette that greets her every morning, and the symbol of a landscape that demands respect. The foothills of Montserrat provide a cooler microclimate, a dramatic backdrop, and a spiritual dimension to her winemaking that no technical manual can teach. The mountain is not merely geography; it is a character in the story of every wine she makes.
The soils of the Alt Penedès are predominantly calcareous clay and limestone — a combination that is poor in organic matter, free-draining, and rich in minerals. These soils force vine roots to dig deep in search of water and nutrients, creating wines of marked freshness, firm acidity, and pronounced mineral character. For Xarel·lo, the signature grape of the region, these soils are ideal — highlighting the variety's natural citrus precision, white flower aromatics, and almond-brittle texture. For the red varieties that Niloufar works with — Garnacha, Tempranillo, Merlot — the calcareous soils provide a backbone of acidity and structure that prevents the wines from becoming heavy or overripe. The result is a portfolio of wines that are fresh, vibrant, and unmistakably Mediterranean.
Niloufar's farming philosophy is rooted in the biodynamic and regenerative practices she learned at Reyneke in South Africa and Nibiru in Austria. She does not use synthetic chemicals, herbicides, or fertilizers. Instead, she focuses on building soil health through cover crops, compost, and biodiversity — recognising that the vineyard is part of a larger ecosystem and that the health of the soil determines the health of the wine. The two plots she rents are farmed with minimal intervention, allowing the indigenous yeast populations to thrive and the grape skins to carry the microbial complexity that makes natural fermentation possible. For Niloufar, this is not a certification checkbox but a way of life — the only way she knows how to work, because it is the only way that makes sense.
Zero Additions, Indigenous Yeast & the Surfboard Hand
The winemaking philosophy of Niloufar is one of radical honesty and infectious energy — a methodology forged not in a classroom but on a surfboard, in a South African biodynamic vineyard, and in an Austrian cellar where the only rule was: add nothing. Niloufar does not follow recipes; she follows her instincts — honed by years of tasting, travelling, and working alongside some of the most progressive winemakers in the world. Her approach is deliberately simple and deliberately brave: healthy grapes, indigenous yeasts, no additions, no corrections, no filtration. The result is wine that tastes of grape, place, and the irrepressible personality of the woman who made it.
The whites are made with a light touch that preserves freshness and aromatic purity. The Xarel·lo — the backbone of her white portfolio — is hand-harvested, gently pressed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts at low temperature in stainless steel or neutral oak. The wine is aged on fine lees until bottling, developing a texture of surprising depth and a character that combines green apple, lemon zest, white flowers, and the calcareous minerality of the Montserrat foothills. The Touch of Light is a white of luminous clarity — a wine that lives up to its name, offering brightness, precision, and an almost electric freshness that makes it irresistible on a hot Catalan afternoon.
The reds are made with the same zero-addition philosophy but with a generosity that reflects the Mediterranean sun. Last Dance is a soft, drinkable red — aged in chestnut barrels, with soft rounded tannins and bright, easy red fruits that make it the perfect companion for a casual dinner or a sunset on the beach. The Garnacha cuvées are solar and generous — hand-harvested, destemmed, and macerated gently to preserve the grape's natural fruit and avoid over-extraction. The Tempranillo adds structure and depth, while the Merlot contributes a plush, approachable texture that makes these wines immediately appealing and deeply drinkable.
The sparkling and orange wines push the boundaries of what Catalan wine can be. Pink Moon is a pale, dry, lightly fizzy rosé — a wine of immediate charm and uncomplicated pleasure that captures the spirit of Mediterranean summers. Mitja Lluna — "half moon" in Catalan — is another expression of Niloufar's playful approach to winemaking, a wine that defies easy categorisation and rewards curiosity. And the orange wines, made from varieties like Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo) and Moscatel de Alejandría with skin maceration, are textured, grippy, and adventurous — wines for those who understand that the best discoveries happen outside the lines. What unites them all is Niloufar's signature: bold, bright, and full of character — just like the winemaker herself.
Zero Additions, Indigenous Yeast & the Covenant of "Without Crap"
The guiding principle of Niloufar's winemaking is distilled into four words: "always made without crap." It is not a marketing slogan; it is a covenant with the drinker — a promise that what is in the bottle is only what the vineyard and the fermentation created. The organic and regenerative farming provides healthy, complex grapes with robust indigenous yeast populations. The hand-harvesting preserves the integrity of the fruit. The low-temperature fermentation preserves aromatics and freshness. The lees aging adds texture and depth. And the absence of sulfites, selected yeasts, enzymes, and filtration means that every wine is a pure, unmediated expression of grape, place, and vintage — with all the risk, unpredictability, and brilliance that entails. For Niloufar, this is not dogma but the only way she knows how to work: with honesty, with energy, with a surfboard never far from reach, and with the stubborn conviction that the best wines are made by those who have the courage to do less — one wave, one harvest, one honest bottle at a time.
Pink Moon, Last Dance, Touch of Light & the Honest Hand
The Niloufar portfolio is a reflection of a journey that spans three continents and a dozen vineyards — a collection of cuvées that span white, red, orange, rosé, and sparkling, made from both estate fruit and carefully sourced local grapes, all united by organic and regenerative farming, zero additions, indigenous yeast fermentation, and a philosophy of radical honesty that privileges the voice of the grape over the hand of the winemaker. Niloufar's wines are not shy — they are bold, bright, and full of character, made by a woman who spent her twenties surfing, harvesting, and refusing to accept the boundaries of conventional winemaking. Production is small and highly allocated — a young project with a growing following in the natural wine bars of Barcelona, Rotterdam, and beyond. The cuvées are distributed through specialist natural wine importers and shops across Europe.
The Rotterdam Sommelier, the Montserrat Arrival & the Catalan Crown
Niloufar is not merely a winemaker; she is a force of nature who has redefined what it means to enter the wine world from the outside — a Rotterdam-born sommelier who left everything behind, travelled three continents in a van named Bennie, and emerged in the foothills of Montserrat with a philosophy so pure it makes most "natural" winemakers look cautious. In an era when the wine industry is obsessed with pedigree, inheritance, and technical credentials, Niloufar has demonstrated that the most profound wines sometimes come from a woman who learned biodynamics in South Africa, zero-addition winemaking in Austria, and surfed her way down the West coast of Europe with a surfboard on her roof. She has proven that Xarel·lo — often reduced to the base of industrial Cava — can be a wine of luminous clarity and calcareous depth when farmed regeneratively and made without additions. That a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Merlot aged in chestnut barrels can be both serious and irresistibly drinkable. That a pét-nat of Xarel·lo, Moscatel, and Hárslevelű — a Hungarian grape in Catalonia — can be a love letter to fermentation itself. And that a wine made "without crap" is not a gimmick but a manifesto.
The legacy of Niloufar is the legacy of the surfer's patience and the sommelier's precision. She did not inherit a wine estate; she built one from curiosity — from the moment she left De Matroos en Het Meisje, through the harvests in Médoc and Stellenbosch, through the zero-addition cellars of Kamptal, to the rented plots in the shadow of Montserrat. Her van, Bennie, is not merely transport but a symbol — of freedom, of movement, of the refusal to be tied to a single place or a single way of thinking. Her surfboard is not merely recreation but a philosophy — the belief that the best things in life happen when you wait for the right wave, then commit fully. And her wines are not merely products but expressions — of a journey, a landscape, and a woman who has refused to let anyone else define what she can or cannot do.
The future of the project is tied to the future of natural wine as outsider art — to the growing recognition that the greatest wines are not always made by those who inherit, but by those who arrive: the surfers, the sommeliers, the seekers who see possibility where others see convention. As the Touch of Light continues to prove that Xarel·lo can be luminous and pure, as the Last Dance demonstrates that natural red wine can be both generous and honest, as the Pink Moon captures the spontaneous joy of Mediterranean summers, and as the Unknown Paradise and Water of Love push the boundaries of what Catalan wine can be, Niloufar remains what she has always intended to be: a Rotterdam-born sommelier who became a travelling winemaker, who surfed her way across three continents in a van called Bennie, who learned biodynamics in South Africa and zero-addition winemaking in Austria, who rents two plots in the foothills of Montserrat and makes wines that are bold, bright, and full of character — always made without crap, always honest, always true — one wave, one harvest, one honest bottle at a time.
"Always made without crap."
— Niloufar Sharifi Esfarani, Alt Penedès, Montserrat Foothills

