Wine from the Volcanic Ridges of Breganze
Rarefratte is one of Italy's most vital natural wine projects — a pioneering estate in Breganze, Veneto, founded by Cristian Moresco in 2012 with a singular mission: to revive ancient and nearly extinct grape varieties native to the region. [^127^] [^128^] The estate spans approximately 8 hectares with 6 hectares under vine, situated in the hilly terrain at the foot of the Asiago Plateau near Bassano del Grappa — a landscape of volcanic ridges and clayey soils that gives the wines their distinctive character. [^127^] All vineyards are dry-farmed without irrigation, and grapes are harvested manually. [^127^] While not formally certified, the estate adheres to organic and biodynamic principles: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration, and minimal sulfur dioxide addition. [^127^] [^140^] The result is a range of white, red, orange, and sparkling wines that are unmistakably Venetian — sharp, savoury, mineral, and alive — each one a testament to a grape variety that might otherwise have been lost to history. [^132^] [^139^]
From Extinction to Expression
Cristian Moresco founded Rarefratte in 2012 not to make another Pinot Grigio or Prosecco, but to save something that was dying. The Breganze hills — a small wine region at the foot of the Asiago Plateau in northern Veneto — were once home to a rich tapestry of indigenous grape varieties. But decades of industrial viticulture, market pressure, and the global dominance of a handful of international grapes had pushed many of these varieties to the brink of extinction. [^127^]
Cristian's response was not nostalgia but action. He began planting and propagating varieties that had almost disappeared: Vespaiolo, Groppella (also known as Groppello), Gruaja, Sciampagna, Marzemina Bianca, and others. [^127^] [^128^] These are not grapes that appear in wine textbooks or on supermarket shelves. They are ghosts of Venetian viticultural history — varieties that grew here for centuries, adapted to the local climate and soil, and then were forgotten. Cristian's project is, in essence, an act of cultural archaeology: digging into the past to build something new.
The name "Rarefratte" itself speaks to this mission. It evokes rarity, fragmentation, the scattered remnants of a lost world. But it also suggests something beautiful: the idea that what is rare can be made whole again, that fragments can be reassembled into a coherent vision. Cristian has spent the past decade doing exactly that — piece by piece, vine by vine, wine by wine.
The estate has grown from a dream into a recognised force in natural wine. Rarefratte is a member of RAW WINE, the global community of organic, biodynamic, and natural wine producers, and is listed on Raisin with 12 natural wines currently recommended — a significant portfolio for a small, young estate. [^128^] [^133^] The wines have found their way to natural wine bars and shops across Europe and the United States, carried by importers who understand that what Cristian is doing is not just making wine but preserving a heritage.
"Rarefratte focuses on reviving ancient and nearly extinct grape varieties native to the region."
— The Grape Reset
Dry-Farmed, Hand-Harvested & Ecological Balance
Rarefratte's vineyards are situated in the hilly terrain of Breganze, at the foot of the Asiago Plateau near Bassano del Grappa — a landscape of volcanic ridges and clayey soils that contributes to the distinctive character of the wines. [^127^] The region's geology is complex: ancient volcanic activity left behind ridges of basalt and tuff, while sedimentary processes created layers of clay and limestone. This mix gives the wines a pronounced minerality, a stony backbone that runs through every cuvée.
All vineyards are dry-farmed without irrigation — a deliberate choice that forces the vines to send their roots deep into the subsoil in search of water. [^127^] This deep rooting not only ensures resilience during dry periods but also allows the vines to access minerals and nutrients that shallow-rooted, irrigated vines cannot reach. The result is grapes with greater concentration, more complex flavours, and a stronger sense of place. Dry farming is more risky and more labour-intensive, but for Cristian, it is the only honest way to farm.
Grapes are harvested manually, with careful selection in the vineyard. [^127^] The steep, hilly terrain makes mechanisation impossible, so every bunch is picked by hand, inspected, and transported to the winery in small containers to preserve integrity. This hands-on approach extends to every aspect of the farming: canopy management, pruning, and soil care are all done by a small team that knows every vine personally.
While Rarefratte does not hold formal organic or biodynamic certification, the farming practices align deeply with both philosophies. [^127^] The estate focuses on creating a balanced ecosystem within the vineyard: promoting soil health, fostering biodiversity, and avoiding synthetic chemicals of any kind. Cover crops grow between vine rows, encouraging insect life and preventing erosion. Compost and natural amendments replace chemical fertilisers. The goal is not to maximise yield but to maximise vitality — to create a vineyard that is self-sustaining, resilient, and expressive.
No irrigation, ever. Vines send roots deep into volcanic subsoil, accessing water and minerals unreachable by shallow-rooted plants. Greater concentration, stronger terroir expression. [^127^]
Vespaiolo, Groppella, Gruaja, Sciampagna, Marzemina Bianca — ancient Venetian varieties rescued from extinction. Each wine is a piece of living history. [^127^] [^128^]
Breganze's volcanic ridges and clayey soils at the foot of the Asiago Plateau. Basalt, tuff, limestone, and clay combine to give a pronounced, stony minerality. [^127^]
No formal certification, but organic and biodynamic principles in practice. Cover crops, biodiversity, soil health, and natural amendments create a self-sustaining vineyard. [^127^]
Spontaneous Fermentation, No Fining & Minimal Sulfur
Rarefratte's winemaking is characterised by minimal intervention — not as a marketing slogan, but as a practical necessity. When working with rare, ancient varieties, the winemaker's role is not to impose a style but to listen to what the grape has to say. Cristian's approach is guided by this humility: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration, and minimal sulfur dioxide addition only when absolutely necessary. [^127^] [^140^]
The white wines — Vespaiolo, Gruaja, Sciampagna — are typically direct-pressed and fermented in stainless steel or neutral vessels, preserving the purity of the fruit and the clarity of the terroir. [^132^] [^139^] The Vespaiolo, in particular, is a revelation: a complex grape that creates dry white wines with minerality and acidity intertwined with delicate aromas of acacia blossoms. [^139^] The Gruaja — used for the sparkling Còle Frizzante — brings its own distinct personality, a variety that seems to have been waiting centuries for someone to turn it into pet-nat. [^130^]
The red wines, made from Groppella (Groppello) and other local varieties, are fermented with gentle extraction — enough to draw colour and tannin from the skins, but not so much as to mask the delicate, almost ethereal character of these ancient grapes. The result is wines that are light, fresh, and savoury rather than heavy and extracted — reds that drink like whites, with a mineral tension that is unmistakably Venetian.
The orange wines — made with extended skin contact from varieties like Pedevenda — showcase a different side of the project. [^127^] These are wines for the adventurous drinker: textured, tannic, and deeply savoury, with an amber hue that speaks of time spent on the skins. They are not conventional, nor are they meant to be. They are expressions of a winemaker who is willing to experiment, to push boundaries, and to trust that ancient grapes can yield modern wonders.
Vespaiolo Selezione — "Acacia Blossoms & Volcanic Minerality"
The Vespaiolo Selezione is Rarefratte's flagship white — a wine that captures everything Cristian Moresco's project stands for. [^135^] [^139^]
Made from 100% old-vine Vespaiolo from the top vineyard in Breganze, the grapes are hand-harvested, gently pressed, and spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wine is not clarified, not filtered, and receives no added sulfur. [^140^]
In the glass, it is a revelation: intense notes of white flowers — acacia blossoms, elderflower, hawthorn — layered over a powerful mineral presence that speaks directly to the volcanic ridges beneath the vines. The palate strikes a perfect balance between fruit and minerality, with a sharp, savoury edge and a finish that seems to go on forever. It is a wine that demands food — hard cheeses, roast vegetables, freshwater fish — but is equally compelling on its own, a meditation in a glass. The 2022 vintage, described as having "intense notes of white flowers and a powerful mineral presence," shows the consistency and depth that old-vine Vespaiolo can achieve when farmed with care and made with restraint. [^136^] ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$42.
The Rarefratte Range
Rarefratte produces a diverse range of white, red, orange, and sparkling wines from their 6 hectares of dry-farmed, hand-harvested vineyards in Breganze. All wines are made with spontaneous fermentation, indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration, and minimal sulfur. [^127^] [^140^] The portfolio is built around indigenous varieties that Cristian Moresco has rescued from extinction, each wine a unique expression of Venetian viticultural heritage. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.