Wine from the Adriatic Funnel
Uroš Klabjan is a distinguished natural winemaker based in the Slovenian Istria region, near the village of Osp, approximately 3 km from the Adriatic Sea and 20 km south of Trieste. [^216^] [^219^] His family has been making wine in this area for many generations, and Uroš has elevated that tradition into something extraordinary — a winery that produces wines of remarkable intensity, structure, and longevity from some of the oldest, most authentic vines in Europe. [^217^] The vineyards encompass approximately 10 hectares with around 60,000 vines, many of which are ungrafted and predate the phylloxera epidemic — a living archive of viticultural history that few other producers can claim. [^216^] Uroš is a welcoming, positive, energetic man, whose wines reflect that magnetism and vivacity. They are honest, authentic reflections of this unique place. [^227^]
Generations in Istria — A Living Archive of Vines
Uroš Klabjan's story is inseparable from the land he farms. His family has been producing wine in Istria for many generations, tending vines on the Slovenian side of this historic peninsula, just 20 km south of Trieste. [^217^] [^219^] The vineyards are located 3 km from the Adriatic Sea near the Gulf of Trieste, in a funnel-shaped valley that captures the Burja wind — a powerful, dry wind that sweeps down from the Karst plateau and across the coast. [^216^] [^222^] This wind is not merely a meteorological phenomenon; it is a defining force of the terroir, moderating temperatures, extending the growing season, and imparting a distinctive tension to the wines.
The estate spans approximately 10 hectares, with around 60,000 vines planted at elevations ranging from 45 to 120 meters above sea level. [^216^] What makes these vineyards extraordinary is not merely their size or their proximity to the sea, but their age and authenticity. Many of the vines are ungrafted — grown on their own roots, without the American rootstocks that were grafted onto European vines after the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century. [^216^] These pre-phylloxera vines are a living archive, a connection to a time before the great vineyards of Europe were destroyed by the aphid, and before the modern wine industry imposed its standardised solutions on the ancient relationship between vine and soil.
Uroš himself is a welcoming, positive, energetic man — a vignaiolo whose personality is as distinctive as his wines. [^227^] He tends his vines with his own hands, walks his vineyards daily, and makes decisions based on observation and intuition rather than spreadsheets or algorithms. His wines are honest, authentic reflections of this unique place — taut, structured, and intensely mineral, with a salinity that speaks directly to the Adriatic just a few kilometres away. [^222^] They are wines that demand attention, that repay patience, and that improve with age in a way that defies the conventional wisdom about natural wine.
"A welcoming, positive, energetic man, whose wines reflect that magnetism and vivacity. They are honest, authentic reflections of this unique place."
— Emma Bentley, Wine Writer
Organic & Biodynamic, Dry-Farmed & Ungrafted Vines
Uroš Klabjan adheres to organic and biodynamic farming principles, though he does not seek official certifications due to the small scale of his production. [^216^] He is a champion of indigenous Slovenian varieties and organic farming. [^223^] All of his vines are dry-farmed without irrigation, even during the hottest vintages — a practice that forces the roots to dig deep into the subsoil, extracting minerals and complexity that irrigated vines never reach. [^223^] The result is grapes of extraordinary concentration and a wine of unmistakable depth.
The soils are a distinctive mix of limestone from the north and marl from the east, providing a diverse terroir that contributes to the complexity of the wines. [^216^] The vineyard's location in a funnel-shaped valley near the Karst hill further enhances the unique microclimate — the Burja wind sweeps through, moderating temperatures and extending the growing season, while the proximity to the sea provides a saline freshness that is unmistakable in the glass. [^216^] [^222^] Indigenous grass species are planted between the vines to aerate the soil, and horses are used for fertilisation — traditional methods that maintain the health of the vineyard ecosystem without synthetic inputs. [^216^]
The primary grape varieties cultivated include Malvasia (Malvazija), Refosco (Refošk), and Muscat Giallo (Hrastovlje biotype), alongside smaller plantings of Pinot Grigio and Merlot. [^216^] [^220^] The focus is on varieties that belong to this place — grapes that have adapted to the Istrian climate, soil, and culture over centuries. Malvasia Istriana is the signature white of the region, a grape of remarkable acidity and mineral depth that produces wines of extraordinary longevity. Refosco is the indigenous red, with its deep colour, peppery spice, and structure that is built for ageing. Muscat Giallo, the Hrastovlje biotype, adds an aromatic, honeyed dimension that is unique to this corner of Slovenia.
Organic and biodynamic principles without official certification. Minimal intervention, natural environment shaping the wines. Horses for fertilisation, indigenous grasses between vines. [^216^] [^223^]
All vines dry-farmed without irrigation, even in hot vintages. Roots dig deep for minerals and complexity. Extraordinary concentration and depth. [^223^]
Many vines ungrafted, on their own roots, predating the phylloxera epidemic. A living archive of European viticultural history. Rare and precious. [^216^]
Limestone from the north, marl from the east. Diverse terroir in a funnel-shaped valley. The Burja wind moderates temperatures and extends the growing season. [^216^] [^222^]
Wild Yeasts, Skin Maceration & No Added Sulfites
Uroš Klabjan believes that great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar. [^216^] His philosophy centres on respecting the natural environment and allowing the grapes to express their true character. In the cellar, fermentation occurs spontaneously with wild yeasts, and wines are typically bottled without added sulfites. [^216^] Skin maceration is employed to initiate fermentation — the grapes are left in contact with their skins for varying periods, extracting colour, tannin, and aromatic compounds that would otherwise remain locked away. The wines are unfiltered, reflecting a hands-off approach to winemaking that trusts the grape and the yeast to do their work without interference.
The Malvasia White Label is a white wine made from the Malvasia grape, offering a surprisingly high level of acidity and a shorter maceration period — a fresher, more immediate expression of the variety. [^216^] The Malvasia Black Label is a more structured wine from older vines, aged in oak barrels, providing a fuller, deeper expression of Malvasia that reveals itself gradually in the glass. [^216^] [^224^] It is powerful and intense — aromas of orange marmalade, dried apricots, wild herbs, and walnuts — an orange wine of extraordinary complexity and depth. [^224^]
The Refošk White Label is an autochthonous red variety from the Primorska region, known for its extracted character and vibrant flavours — a red of structure and immediacy. [^216^] The Refošk Black Label is a more intense version from older vines, offering depth and complexity that rewards patience and cellaring. [^216^] The Dolansky is an orange wine made from Muscat Giallo (Hrastovlje biotype), showcasing the traditional skin-contact winemaking method that has become Uroš's signature — amber, textured, and savoury, with the aromatic complexity that only extended maceration can provide. [^216^]
The Àyra is a sparkling wine produced from the Mauzac grape, highlighting the region's potential for quality sparkling wines and Uroš's willingness to experiment beyond the conventions of still wine. [^216^] Every wine that leaves the cellar carries the same signature: purity, intensity, and a sense of place that is unmistakably Istrian. Uroš's wines are timeless and robust, intense and extracted, showing no sign of aging even after many years in the bottle. [^221^] They are wines that improve with age, that evolve unpredictably, and that reward the patience of those who understand that the best things cannot be rushed.
Malvazija Black Label — "Orange Marmalade, Dried Apricots, Wild Herbs"
The Malvazija Black Label is Uroš Klabjan's most celebrated wine — a powerful and intense orange wine from older vines that has become a benchmark for the style in Slovenian Istria. [^224^]
Made from 100% Malvasia Istriana grown on ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines in the funnel-shaped valley of Osp, the grapes are hand-harvested and undergo extended skin maceration with spontaneous fermentation using indigenous yeasts. The wine is then aged in oak barrels, developing a complexity and depth that only time and wood can provide. [^216^] [^224^]
In the glass, it is amber and luminous, with aromas of orange marmalade, dried apricots, wild herbs, and walnuts. The palate is structured, tannic, and savoury — a wine that demands food, demands attention, and rewards both with layers of flavour that unfold over hours. It is characterised by surprising acidity and a strong mineral, salty finish that speaks directly to the Adriatic Sea just 3 kilometres away. [^228^] Despite its intensity, it maintains a balance and elegance that is rare in wines of such extraction. It is the kind of wine that makes you rethink what Malvasia can be — and what natural wine can achieve. ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$42.
The Uroš Klabjan Range
Uroš Klabjan produces a focused range of natural wines from approximately 10 hectares of organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards in Osp, Slovenian Istria. All wines are spontaneously fermented with wild yeasts, made without added sulfites, and bottled unfiltered. The portfolio is built around indigenous Istrian varieties and reflects the unique terroir of the Adriatic coast — the limestone and marl soils, the Burja wind, and the saline freshness of the sea. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.