Wine from 45-Degree Slopes & Dry Stone
Vinarija Križ is a certified organic and biodynamic winery on the Pelješac Peninsula in southern Dalmatia, Croatia, run by third-generation winemaker Denis Bogoević-Marušić and his father Mile — an impressive 42 years apart in age, yet both actively engaged in every aspect of the winemaking. [^70^] In 2004, Denis moved from Split to his father's native village of Prizdrina, embracing time-honored practices passed down through generations. [^62^] The winery owns just 2–3 hectares of extreme, south-facing vineyards on slopes of up to 45 degrees, where Denis has refined the terrain by hand, creating terraces with dry-stone walls — the protectors and guardians of poor soil. [^61^] [^60^]
A Father's Native Village — From Split to Prizdrina
Denis Bogoević-Marušić's story is one of return — a return to his father's roots, to his grandfather's land, and to the most ancient methods of winemaking on one of the most demanding terroirs in the Mediterranean. In 2004, Denis moved from the coastal city of Split to Prizdrina, a village of just 20 people on the Pelješac Peninsula, to take up the work his family had done for generations. [^62^] [^64^] His father Mile, now 85, is still actively involved in the vineyard and cellar — a generational continuity that is rare even in traditional wine regions. As Denis's wife Maja remarks with a smile, "Both are well preserved with natural wine." [^70^]
The Pelješac Peninsula is one of Croatia's most celebrated wine regions, a narrow finger of land jutting into the Adriatic, famous for its steep, rocky slopes and its indigenous red grape Plavac Mali — a relative of Zinfandel and Primitivo that has adapted over centuries to the intense sun, poor soils, and fierce winds of Dalmatia. [^63^] But Križ is not merely another Plavac producer. Denis also cultivates Grk — a rare white grape native to the nearby island of Korčula, and one of the few examples of this variety grown outside its home island. [^70^] His Grk 2016 is possibly the only skin-fermented, orange-style Grk on the market — a wine that harks back to a style that was almost certainly the norm a century ago. [^70^]
The vineyards are situated on southern-facing slopes between the villages of Prizdrina and Postup, a sub-region renowned for its steep, rocky terrain and its capacity to produce concentrated, mineral-driven wines. [^63^] The terroir is a combination of terra rossa (red soil) and a limestone base, providing excellent drainage and a high mineral content that is a key expression in the wines. [^63^] The climate is Mediterranean, with a strong maritime influence from the Adriatic Sea and intense sun exposure during the summer — ideal conditions for these native grapes, but punishing for the humans who tend them.
"Both are well preserved with natural wine."
— Maja Bogoević-Marušić, on Denis (43) and Mile (85)
Extreme Terraces, Terra Rossa & Biodynamic Lunar Calendar
The conditions at Križ are extreme. The vineyards sit on 45-degree slopes of rocky dolomite sand and limestone — terrain so steep and so poor that Denis can only work by hand. [^72^] He has refined the terrain by hand, creating terraces with dry-stone walls that serve as both structural support and guardians of the thin soil. [^61^] [^60^] The ground is deeply contoured in the shape of gutters, carved by centuries of rain and wind. This is not farming; this is stonemasonry with vines. Every vine is tended individually, every cluster is known, and every decision is made in response to the specific conditions of each terrace.
Križ has been certified organic since 2008 — the first certified ecological grape growers in the region. [^62^] Drawing inspiration from biodynamic principles, especially after guidance from pioneers like Alex Podolinsky, Denis employs natural preparations and follows lunar cycles to enhance vine vitality. [^62^] The cultivation of the vineyards and crops is 100% natural and traditional — no pesticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilisers. [^61^] The vines are 60 years old, trained very low in bush vine formation to protect the fruit from the scorching sun. [^72^] Yields are extraordinarily low — less than half a kilogram per vine — making the Plavac a true nectar of concentration. [^61^]
As has been said since ancient times: "Adversity makes Plavac wine better." [^61^] The poor soil, the low yields, the hand labour, and the biodynamic discipline all contribute to grapes of exceptional intensity. The natural yeasts are preserved in the soil and on the grapes themselves, so there is no need for selected yeasts — a cornerstone of Križ's natural philosophy. [^60^] The cultivation is ecological, the intervention minimal, and the result is wines that taste of sunburnt stone, of Adriatic salt, and of the stubbornness required to farm a 45-degree slope by hand.
First certified ecological grape growers in the Pelješac region. Biodynamic principles with lunar calendar guidance. Natural preparations, no chemicals. [^62^] [^61^]
Terrain refined by hand on 45-degree slopes. Dry-stone walls protect and guard poor soil. Gutters carved by centuries of rain. Only hand labour possible. [^60^] [^61^]
Red soil over limestone base. Excellent drainage, high mineral content. Strong maritime influence, intense summer sun. The classic Dalmatian terroir for Plavac Mali. [^63^]
Less than 0.5 kg per vine. 60-year-old bush vines trained low to protect from sun. Natural concentration without intervention. True nectar of adversity. [^61^] [^72^]
Spontaneous Fermentation, Slavonian Oak & Minimal Sulfur
Denis's work in the cellar is just as natural as his approach in the vineyard. He vinifies in old, untoasted Slavonian oak barrels — large 600-litre casks that allow for long lees contact without overwhelming the wine with wood character. [^72^] All fermentations are spontaneous with wild indigenous yeasts. No selected yeasts are added, no enzymes, no corrections. [^61^] The wines are bottled unfiltered, preserving their natural texture and the living complexity that filtration would strip away. Sulfur is used only sparingly — the Grk receives just 8 ppm total SO2, and the Plavac Mali wines are made with no additives at all. [^62^]
The Grk is Križ's most distinctive wine — and possibly the most unique in their portfolio. Grk is a full-bodied, honeyed variety even without its skins, but in its skin-fermented guise (with seven days of maceration), it gains yet more weight and complexity whilst retaining a surprising freshness. [^70^] The 2016 vintage, tasted by Simon J. Woolf of The Morning Claret, was described as "an orange wine for all, not just the wine geeks. It's soft, generous and accessible, with subtle citrus peel and almond hints that lift the finish." [^70^] This is not an aggressive, tannic orange wine; it is a wine of generosity and balance, a gateway to the style for those who might be wary of more extreme examples.
The Plavac Mali comes in two expressions. The Milo (blue label) is the more approachable, open-tank natural fermentation, aged 12 months in large 600-litre wooden casks, showing all the complexity of the limestone soil in a drinkable, food-friendly format. [^62^] The flagship Plavac Mali comes from a different, older parcel — a single-vineyard grand cru of sorts — with bigger body, bigger tannins, and a very serious food-wine character. [^62^] Both are made with the same minimalist methods, but the vineyard differences are stark: one is friendly and inviting, the other is deep, brooding, and demanding.
The Rozi Križ is a dry rosé made from Plavac Mali, captivating with its pomegranate hue and vibrant fruit aromas — a refreshing counterpoint to the intensity of the reds and the weight of the orange Grk. [^62^] Together, the four wines form a complete picture of what Pelješac can offer: red power, white complexity, rosé freshness, and above all, the mineral imprint of sunburnt stone and Adriatic wind.
Grk — "7 Days of Maceration, 8 ppm Sulfur"
Vinarija Križ's Grk is possibly the only skin-fermented, orange-style Grk on the market — a rare expression of a rare variety from a rare terroir. [^70^] [^62^]
Grk is native to the island of Korčula, just across the Pelješac Strait from Križ's vineyards. Denis Bogoević-Marušić is one of the few winemakers cultivating it outside its home island, and his decision to macerate it on the skins for seven days harks back to a style that was almost certainly the norm a century ago — before the global fashion for pale, sterile white wines. [^70^]
The grapes are hand-harvested from 60-year-old bush vines on 45-degree limestone slopes, then given seven days of skin contact with spontaneous fermentation in old, untoasted Slavonian oak. The result is a wine of remarkable generosity: full-bodied and honeyed from the variety's natural character, yet lifted by subtle citrus peel and almond notes that keep it fresh and accessible. Simon J. Woolf described it as "an orange wine for all, not just the wine geeks" — soft, approachable, and complex without being demanding. [^70^]
Only 8 ppm total sulfur is added. The wine is unfiltered, with natural sediments that speak to its living character. In the glass, it glows with an amber-orange hue that announces its intentions before the first sip. A wine that bridges old Dalmatia and the modern natural wine movement, made by a father and son separated by 42 years but united by the same stone, the same sun, and the same stubborn belief that the best wine needs the least help. ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$42.
The Vinarija Križ Range
Vinarija Križ produces a focused portfolio of four wines from 2–3 hectares of extreme, hand-terraced vineyards on the Pelješac Peninsula. All wines are organically and biodynamically farmed, hand-harvested from 60-year-old bush vines, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in old Slavonian oak, unfiltered, and made with minimal or zero sulfur. Maximum annual production is 8,000–10,000 bottles. Prices are approximate and in EUR/USD.
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The Adriatic Pantry: https://adriaticpantry.com/products/kriz-grk
Wagners Weinshop: https://www.wagners-weinshop.com/hersteller/vinarija-kriz.html
Vinocentral.de: https://www.vinocentral.de/weingueter/kroatien/kriz/