The Belgian, the Owl & the Man Who Tuned His Cellar
In Labraza — a medieval walled village of fewer than 100 people on the border of Álava and Navarra — Iker García, son and grandson of a farmer, and Alice Bridoux, from Wallonia, farm ~12 hectares biodynamically at 650 metres, use horses to plough and mow, and harmonise their cellar with tuning forks and sacred geometry.
Origin — 2015, the Farmer's Son & the Belgian on the Road
Iker García was born in Labraza — a medieval walled village of barely 100 inhabitants in the municipality of Oyón, on the border between Álava and Navarra, in the eastern reaches of Rioja Alavesa. He is the son and grandson of a farmer — a shepherd's grandson, to be precise — and he learned from childhood what it means to work hard, to watch the elements, and to learn from nature what it is. He grew up among vines, sheep, and the stone walls of a village that feels, to visitors, frozen in time — cobblestone streets, medieval fortifications, and a silence so deep you can hear the owls in the pine forest.
Iker studied Environmental Sciences at the University of Vitoria-Gasteiz and then travelled across Europe for practical training — not in wine schools, but in the field, working with farmers and viticulturists who understood land as something alive rather than productive. It was on those travels that he met Alice Bridoux — a Belgian from Wallonia who had studied audiovisual communication, performing arts, cultural management, and pedagogy before launching herself into the world. Alice had trained in permaculture, horticulture, and active pedagogy — disciplines that taught her to see the earth as a teacher and the garden as a classroom. They fell in love. And they discovered something they shared: "a common idea — to live in harmony with nature, caring for the earth and its beings, respecting their cycles and their needs, undertaking each day for well-being and joy, ultimately for a better world."
In 2015, they returned to Labraza and founded Viñedos Hontza. The name — Hontza — means "owl" in Basque, and it is both a symbol and a prayer. The owls that live in the autochthonous pine forest surrounding their land are the native guardians of the vineyards — silent, watchful, and deeply connected to the rhythms of night and day. The owl is not a mascot. It is a totem — a reminder that the vineyard is part of a larger ecosystem, and that the winemaker's job is not to dominate but to observe, protect, and accompany.
They began with Iker's father's vineyards — converting them first to organic, then gradually immersing themselves in biodynamics. It was not a marketing decision. It was a natural progression: organic was not enough. They needed to go further — into the preparations, the timing, the cosmic rhythms, and the spiritual dimension that Steiner's philosophy demands. Today, they farm ~12 hectares certified organic, with additional hectares in conversion. The vines range from 30 to 100 years old. And they are the first and only winery in Labraza — a village that, despite its medieval beauty and its extraordinary altitude, had never before been home to a bodega.
The Place — The Medieval Wall, the Horses & the Forgotten Grapes
Labraza sits at ~650 metres above sea level in the eastern foothills of Rioja Alavesa — the highest winery in the sub-zone, protected by the Sierra de Cantabria to the north, the Ebro River to the south, and the Pinar de Dueñas — the most north-westerly pine forest on the Iberian Peninsula — to the east. The altitude creates a unique microclimate: despite the Mediterranean influence of the Ebro valley, the wines retain a crazy fresh energy — acidity, tension, and a mineral precision that lower-elevation Rioja cannot replicate. The soils are clay-limestone, sometimes sandy, and generally very poor — the kind of earth that forces vines to struggle, to dig deep, and to produce fruit of genuine concentration.
The Scattered Parcels & the Minifundio
The minifundio — the small-plot system that has defined Spanish agriculture for centuries — is alive and well in Labraza. Iker and Alice's ~12 hectares are not a single estate. They are scattered across dozens of small parcels at altitudes ranging from 400 to 900 metres, with every possible orientation — north, south, east, west. There has been no land consolidation in the region, which means each parcel has its own microclimate, soil, and personality. Some face the morning sun. Some catch the afternoon breeze. Some sit on clay. Some on sand. This is not a disadvantage. It is a treasure — a patchwork of terroirs that allows Iker and Alice to make wines of extraordinary differentiation, even within a single village.
The Horses — Not Decoration, but Team Members
The vineyard is not merely biodynamic. It has real-life horses helping out. They plough the soil, mow the grass between the rows, and keep the surrounding meadows in check. These are not photo-opportunity ponies brought in for Instagram. They are working animals — part of the team, part of the closed-loop system that biodynamics demands. The horses contribute manure, reduce compaction, and force Iker to walk every row, to see every vine, to notice what a tractor driver at 15 km/h would miss. As one visitor put it: "It's sustainable, it's traditional, and yeah, it's very charming. These horses aren't just for show — they're part of the team."
The Forgotten Varieties — Genetic Capital
Iker and Alice are not merely farming Tempranillo and Garnacha. They are preserving a genetic archive of varieties that would otherwise disappear: Mazuela, Miguel de Arco, Cojón de Gato, Parrillera, Calagraño, Maturana Tinta, Tintorera, Malvasía Riojana, Macabeu — grapes that the modern Rioja system has forgotten or actively discouraged. Their oldest vineyard — Miralasbuenas — contains more than ten varieties in a single field blend, including 30% white grapes interplanted with reds. These vines are not productive in the commercial sense. They are low-yielding, difficult to harvest, and impossible to mechanise. But they are high quality — and they are the living memory of a Rioja that existed before monoculture.
The Owl's Forest — Pinar de Dueñas
To the east of Labraza lies the Pinar de Dueñas — the most north-westerly pine forest on the Iberian Peninsula, and the home of the owls that give Hontza its name. This forest is not merely a backdrop. It is an active participant in the vineyard's ecosystem — providing habitat for predators that control pests, contributing organic matter to the soil, and creating a microclimate of cool nights and gentle breezes that moderates the summer heat. Iker and Alice see the forest as a partner, not a neighbour. The owl that watches from the pine branch is not a symbol on a label. It is a collaborator.
Winemaking — Tuning Forks, Sacred Geometry & the Calm That Makes Wine
Iker and Alice's philosophy can be distilled into three words: observe, care, accompany. They see themselves not as winemakers in the industrial sense but as stewards — guides who help the wine express itself, with a respect for the natural process and a drive to constantly innovate to refine techniques for unique expression. "We are dedicated to making handmade natural wine on a human scale," they say. "Our aim is to craft unique wines that humbly express the true terroir from which they come."
In the vineyard, they follow the principles of biodynamics — not as a label but as a way of being. The preparations are totally natural, homeopathic, and gathered from their immediate environment. They follow the lunar calendar. They energise the preparations. They apply manure with intention. And they maintain a strong human presence — walking the rows, touching the vines, reading the weather. The tractor is used when necessary, but the horses are essential. The work is physical, spiritual, and unhurried.
In the cellar, the philosophy is equally radical: zero additives, no sulphiting, no clarification, no stabilisation, native yeasts only, unfiltered wines. They do not correct. They do not manipulate. They do not rescue bad fruit with technology. If the vintage is challenging, the wine reflects it. If the vintage is generous, the wine celebrates it. "The objective is to reflect the originality of our terroirs in the wines, without adaptations," they explain. "Thus we produce natural wines that are powerful and full of energy."
And then there is the sound. Iker and Alice use tuning forks and sacred geometry in the cellar to maintain calm and harmony — a practice rooted in the biodynamic belief that vibration and geometric form influence living matter. The tuning forks are not New Age gimmicks. They are tools of attention — a way of creating an atmosphere in which the wine can ferment and evolve without the stress of industrial noise, artificial light, or the anxiety of a production schedule. The cellar is small, humble, and exactly the kind of place where, as one visitor noted, magic happens. It is not a cathedral. It is a quiet room — and in that quiet, the wine finds its voice.
The Wines — From the Village Red to the Centenarian Field Blend & the Smoke Seller
Viñedos Hontza produces a remarkably eclectic range from the scattered parcels around Labraza — all biodynamic, vegan-friendly, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and bottled without fining, filtration, or added sulphites (or with minimal sulphur only). The range is organised into three categories: Vinos de Pueblo (village wines that capture the essence of Labraza), Vinos de Parcela (single-vineyard expressions of specific terroirs), and Vinos Experimentales (innovative cuvées that push boundaries). Production is deliberately small — ~17,000 bottles across ~10 references — and the project does not intend to grow much. Each vintage is different, and Iker and Alice adapt their winemaking accordingly, refusing to impose a house style on nature's variability.
Hontza "Hontza"
Village red — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaThe flagship village red — 40% Tempranillo and 60% Garnacha tinta, Graciano, and Mazuela — from bush-trained vines over 35 years old scattered across Labraza's different valleys, orientations, soils, and altitudes. The grapes are hand-harvested and hand-sorted, then fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks with soft extractions. The result is a raw, natural, and alive wine — full of earthy notes, pepper, red and dark berries, and a mineral freshness that speaks directly to the high-altitude, clay-limestone terroir. It is a wine of remarkable honesty — not polished, not corrected, but profoundly expressive of its place. Perfect with pinchos, tapas, pasta, and pizza — or simply on its own, chilled slightly, on a warm evening. ~13% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza "Too Mahats"
Village red — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaA fresh, easygoing village red — Tempranillo, Garnacha, and a touch of Viura — selected from across all of Hontza's parcels to create a wine that represents the whole village in a single bottle. The name Too Mahats is Basque — a playful, local reference that anchors the wine to its place. Fermented naturally in concrete with minimal intervention, the wine is juicy, fruity, and immediately approachable — cherry, plum, a hint of herbs, and that signature Labraza freshness. It is the entry point to Hontza's world — a wine that says: this is what biodynamic farming at 650 metres tastes like. ~13% ABV. Low sulphites. Vegan.
Hontza "Selección"
Village red — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaA more structured village expression — 75% Tempranillo and 25% Garnacha tinta — selected from the best parcels in a given vintage to represent Labraza at its most focused and serious. The higher proportion of Tempranillo gives the wine firmer tannins, darker fruit, and a capacity for ageing that the lighter cuvées do not claim. Yet it retains the same biodynamic purity — indigenous yeasts, concrete fermentation, no additives, no filtration. It is a wine for the table rather than the aperitif — grilled lamb, roasted vegetables, aged cheese. And it is a wine that improves with time, revealing layers of earth, spice, and mineral complexity as it evolves. ~13.5% ABV. Minimal sulphur. Vegan.
Hontza "Zuria"
Orange / skin-contact white — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaThe orange wine of Hontza — 70% Viura and 30% Calagreño — a skin-contact white that captures the wild, herbal, and saline character of Labraza's high-altitude whites. The grapes are macerated on their skins, giving the wine an amber-gold colour, grippy tannins, and a complexity that neutral, pressed whites cannot achieve. On the nose: dried apricot, wild herbs, orange peel, and a hint of oxidation. On the palate: textured, tannic, and deeply satisfying — a wine that demands food and attention. It is a wine that proves Rioja Alavesa can produce orange wines of genuine finesse — if you farm biodynamically, harvest by hand, and refuse to filter. ~11-12% ABV. Low sulphites. Vegan.
Hontza "Behera"
Single-vineyard red — Viña "Batiñuelo", LabrazaFrom the Viña "Batiñuelo" — a single, exclusive parcel — ~1,000 bottles of a 95% Garnacha tinta, 2% Tempranillo, and 3% Calagreño wine of remarkable purity and Mediterranean generosity. The Garnacha dominates — red berries, wild herbs, and a silky, almost velvety texture — while the Tempranillo provides structure and the Calagreño contributes an aromatic lift that keeps the wine from becoming heavy. Fermented naturally, aged carefully, and bottled without filtration. It is a wine that screams of its place — the sun, the wind, the poor clay-limestone soil, and the owl in the pine tree. ~14% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza "Valtide"
Single-vineyard red — Viñas "Las Balsas", LabrazaFrom the Viñas "Las Balsas" — a single parcel of old vines — ~700 bottles of a 95% Mazuela and 5% Tempranillo wine that is one of the most original in the Hontza range. Mazuela — also known as Cariñena — is a variety that has been largely forgotten in Rioja, replaced by the more commercially reliable Tempranillo. But in Iker's hands, it produces a wine of extraordinary depth and savoury complexity — dark fruit, graphite, wild herbs, and a meaty, almost bloody intensity that speaks of old vines and poor soils. The 5% Tempranillo softens the edges. The result is a wine of profound character and extreme scarcity. ~14% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza "Garaya"
Single-vineyard field blend — Viñas Centenarias "Miralasbuenas", LabrazaThe most profound and chaotic wine in the portfolio — from the centenarian vines of "Miralasbuenas" — ~500 bottles of a field blend of more than ten varieties: 30% white grapes and 70% red, including old Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Miguel de Arco, Tintorera, Viura, Calagreño, Maturana Tinta, and others. This is not a blend decided in the cellar. It is a blend decided by the grandfather who planted the vineyard — a living archive of Rioja Alavesa's pre-industrial viticulture. The wine is wild, complex, and almost impossible to describe — layers of fruit, earth, herbs, and mineral that shift with every sip. It is a wine for contemplation, for collectors, and for those who understand that the best blends are not made by winemakers but by time. ~14% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza "Vendedor de Humo" Rosado
Experimental rosé — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaAn experimental rosé — Tempranillo (direct press), Mazuela and Graciano (saignée) — ~1,500 bottles that fuse two different winemaking techniques in a single wine. The Tempranillo is pressed directly, giving pale colour and delicate aromatics. The Mazuela and Graciano are bled off after brief skin contact, contributing structure, spice, and a deeper hue. The result is a rosé of unusual complexity — not the simple, sweet pink of tourist Rioja, but a serious, savoury, and deeply refreshing wine that pairs with everything from grilled fish to spicy tapas. The name Vendedor de Humo — Smoke Seller — is a playful nod to the wine's elusive, almost magical character. ~12.5% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza "Vendedor de Humo" Ancestral
Experimental pet-nat — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaA pet-nat rosé — 100% Tempranillo — made by the ancestral method (bottled before fermentation is complete, with no disgorgement or dosage). ~1,500 bottles of fizzy, fruity, and refreshing wine that captures the joyful, irreverent side of Hontza's philosophy. It is the wine Iker and Alice open at sunset — the bottle you chill, kick back with, and forget what time it is. The bubbles are soft and natural, not the aggressive mousse of Champagne. The fruit is pure strawberry and cherry. And the finish is dry, mineral, and impossibly drinkable. It is a wine that proves natural wine can be fun without being frivolous — and that pét-nat has a place in Rioja Alavesa. ~11.5% ABV. Zero additives. Vegan.
Hontza Experimental / Limited Releases
Variable — Labraza, Rioja AlavesaIker and Alice's playground — small-lot cuvées that push the boundaries of what biodynamic Rioja Alavesa can express. These may include extended skin-contact whites, carbonic maceration reds, single-parcel bottlings from specific slopes, or wines aged in alternative vessels beyond concrete. The common thread is zero additives, indigenous yeast, and total creative freedom guided by the vintage and the parcel. As they say: "Each vintage is different, since each year is too (climate), and we like to adapt and find new ways of doing things, so that the wines are structured and balanced." These wines are not always available. When they are, they are shared with the small community of collectors who understand that Hontza's experiments are not gimmicks but genuine inquiries into what the medieval walls of Labraza can express when fear is removed from the equation. Extremely limited.
Legacy — The First Winery in Labraza, the Forgotten Grapes & the Tuning Fork
Viñedos Hontza matters because it is one of the most spiritually grounded and ecologically radical wine projects in Rioja — the work of a farmer's son and a Belgian traveller who, in 2015, returned to a medieval village of 100 people and created the first and only winery Labraza had ever known. In a region where the DO system encourages homogenisation, where cooperatives blend anonymity into tank farms, and where the industrial logic of "efficient modern production techniques" threatens the natural balance, Iker García and Alice Bridoux have proven that biodynamic farming, forgotten indigenous varieties, and a cellar tuned with forks can produce wines that are not merely different but alive — wines that hold the essence of their place rather than merely representing it.
Their legacy is agricultural. By farming ~12 hectares biodynamically across scattered parcels at 400-900 metres, by using horses to plough and mow, by preserving genetic capital that would otherwise disappear — Mazuela, Miguel de Arco, Cojón de Gato, Parrillera, Calagreño, Maturana Tinta — and by refusing land consolidation and industrial monoculture, Iker and Alice have created a model for viticulture that is closer to peasant wisdom and ecological restoration than to modern agronomy. The centenarian vineyard of Miralasbuenas — with its ten varieties, 30% white grapes, and field-blend chaos — is not merely a vineyard. It is a living museum of pre-industrial Rioja.
Their legacy is also oenological. The Garaya — 500 bottles from 100-year-old vines, ten varieties, zero additives — is a wine that no one else in Rioja could make, because no one else has the vineyard. The Valtide — 700 bottles of 95% Mazuela — is a wine that resurrects a forgotten grape and proves it deserves a place in the modern cellar. The Zuria — 70% Viura, 30% Calagreño, skin contact, orange-gold and textured — is a white wine that challenges every assumption about what Rioja Alavesa whites should be. And the Vendedor de Humo Ancestral — a pét-nat made from Tempranillo in a village that had never seen bubbles — is a wine of pure joy and irreverence. Each wine is a question: why should Rioja be only one thing? And each wine is an answer: it shouldn't.
And their legacy is philosophical. "Observe, care, accompany." "Respect must live in my thoughts." "Our aim is to craft unique wines that humbly express the true terroir from which they come." These are not slogans. They are the daily practice of two people who live in a village of 100, who walk their vineyards with horses, who prepare biodynamic remedies by hand, who tune their cellar with forks, and who produce ~17,000 bottles across ten references because they do not want to grow. Their project is human-scale — literally. It is the work of two bodies, four hands, and a pair of horses. And in an era of wine-industrial complex expansion, that smallness is a statement of principle.
From the farmer's son to the Belgian traveller, from the medieval wall to the pine forest, from the forgotten grape to the tuning fork, from the first winery in Labraza to the owl that watches from the branch, Viñedos Hontza is a testament to what happens when two people decide that the village is older than the appellation, that the forgotten variety is truer than the consultant, that the horse is wiser than the tractor, and that the best way to make wine is to observe, care, accompany — and let the owl keep watch. The bell does not ring here. The tuning fork does. And the drinker is transformed.