The Alchemist of the Jura

Nestled between Burgundy and Switzerland, the Jura's lush landscape is a stunning representation of a mountainous wine-growing region. Its diverse climate and terrain support forty unique grape varieties, resulting in wines that can surprise even the most seasoned palates. At the heart of this region, in the small hamlet of La Combe de Rotalier, Jean-François Ganevat—known affectionately as Fanfan—is crafting wines that seem almost magical.

A descendant of a winegrowing family dating back to 1650, Ganevat’s family also produced Comté cheese until 1976. After stints working with his father and the renowned Domaine Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-François returned to his roots in 1998 to take over the family estate. Today, he works alongside his sister Anne, on the domaine’s eight and a half hectares, where they cultivate 17 different grape varieties—an impressive diversity for such a small plot of land.

Driven by a perfectionist’s passion, Jean-François made the natural decision to convert the estate to biodynamic farming by 2006. His approach is distinctive and meticulous, creating up to 40 unique cuvées each year, often from both estate-grown and purchased grapes. His commitment to individuality is evident in his process, where each cuvée receives a tailored élevage, often drawing inspiration from Burgundian techniques, such as using ouillage to top off barrels.

In 2017, the Jura was devastated by a harsh frost, which wiped out 95% of Ganevat’s vines. In response, Jean-François and Anne expanded their operations through négoce, sourcing grapes from outside their estate to continue crafting their celebrated wines. Ganevat’s wines are revered for their rare, exceptional quality, making him one of the true masters of his craft in the world of natural wine.