Fanfan Ganevat
& Anne
14th generation winemakers in the Jura. 40 cuvées from 17 indigenous varieties. Biodynamic since 2006. No sulfur during vinification. The Magician of the Jura.
From 1650 to Fanfan—14 generations of Jura winemaking
The Ganevat family history in the Jura stretches back to 1650, when they first began cultivating vines in the hamlet of La Combe de Rotalier, just south of Lons-le-Saunier. For centuries, the family balanced grape growing with dairy farming, producing milk for the local Comté cheese until 1976, when they turned their full attention to wine [^49^][^54^].
After working alongside his father, Jean-François Ganevat—known as "Fanfan" to friends—spent formative years at the prestigious Domaine Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy. This experience shaped his love for Chardonnay and his interest in single-parcel vinification. He returned to the Jura in 1998 to take over the family domaine, bringing Burgundian precision to Jura tradition [^49^][^63^].
Today, Fanfan and his sister Anne farm just 8.5 hectares of their own vines, yet produce an astonishing diversity. They have planted 17 different local grape varieties—both red and white—including ancient varieties like Enfariné Noir, Petit Bécland, Gueuche, and Argant alongside the classic Jura grapes: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir [^49^][^52^][^54^].
For such a fervent perfectionist, converting to biodynamic viticulture in 2006 (Demeter certified) was a natural choice. The domaine uses herbal infusions, natural composts, cover crops, and works in accordance with the lunar calendar. Yields are kept extremely low, and all vineyard work is done by hand—roughly one person per hectare [^51^][^54^][^60^].
+ Négociant Wines
2018 Vigneron de l'Année
Burgundian precision meets Jura tradition—single parcels, long élevage, zero additives
Ganevat's approach combines Burgundian parcel selection with Jura natural winemaking. Each cuvée calls for highly individualized élevage—Fanfan knows his parcels like the back of his hand, with each little nuance of terroir put in the spotlight. The soils vary from schist to chalk to marl, and over half the vines are at least 50 years old, with some parcels dating to 1902 and 1919 [^52^][^63^].
In the cellar, everything follows the spirit of Jules Chauvet: vinifications use only indigenous yeasts, with no additives, no sulfur during vinification, and only a tiny touch at bottling for some cuvées. Whites are aged in 400-litre barrels or demi-muids for around 2 years, sometimes more, with all whites going through malolactic fermentation. Reds are entirely de-stemmed and aged in Burgundian barrels for one year before bottling [^49^][^52^][^54^].
The methods are not set in stone—Fanfan alters them depending on the vintage. He gravitates toward ouillage (topping up barrels) to prevent oxidation in most whites, yet also produces oxidative Savagnin sous voile for his Vin Jaune and other cuvées. This flexibility, combined with meticulous attention to detail, creates wines of incredible purity and precision [^49^][^68^].
- Whole cluster fermentation
- No racking of must
- Indigenous yeasts only
- Ouillage technique
- 2+ years élevage
- Parcel by parcel
Fanfan & Anne: Division of labor, unity of purpose
Jean-François "Fanfan" Ganevat
The visionary behind the domaine's fame. Worked at Jean-Marc Morey in Burgundy before returning to Rotalier in 1998. Handles all winemaking decisions, from harvest timing to élevage. Known for his perfectionism and love of detail—he creates 35-40 cuvées annually, each with individualized treatment. Awarded 100 points by Wine Advocate and named 2018 Vigneron de l'Année by La Revue du Vin de France [^49^][^50^][^63^].
Anne Ganevat
Manages the viticulture with the same meticulous care Fanfan applies in the cellar. Oversees the biodynamic farming, coordinates the team of eight people (including Fanfan), and ensures the grapes that enter the cellar are of pristine quality. While Fanfan travels and manages customer relations, Anne prefers to stay close to the vines in Rotalier [^49^][^52^].
From Vin Jaune to J'en Veux—40 expressions of Jura terroir
J'en Veux
Vin de France • 18 VarietiesA field blend of 18 different native red and white varieties from the Jura: Enfariné, Corbeau, Gueuche, Portugais Bleu, Gouais, Béclan, and more. Vinified "grape by grape"—individual berries are cut from clusters directly into barrel. No punchdowns, pumpovers, or pressing. Only 900 liters produced. A wine of incredible complexity and rarity [^54^].
Vin Jaune
Savagnin • Sous VoileThe iconic oxidative wine of the Jura. Savagnin aged sous voile (under a veil of flor yeast) for years, developing intense nutty, spicy, and curry-like complexity. The 2007 vintage showed exotic notes, raisins, curry spice, and amazing depth with 96/100 ratings. A wine that can age for decades [^52^][^65^].
Cuvée Marguerite
Chardonnay • 1902 VinesFrom vines planted in grey marl in 1902—bottled only in magnum. Fine lemony aromatics, so mineral, pure and intense with great acidity. One of the most sought-after white wines from the Jura, showing the incredible potential of old-vine Chardonnay in this region [^52^].
Poulsard Cuvée de l'Enfant Terrible
Vieilles VignesFrom some of the oldest Poulsard vines in the Jura. Pale, ethereal color with sweet red cherries, tea leaf, and herb notes. Elegant and sappy with savoury earthy undertones and high acidity. A masterclass in the delicate, Pinot-like side of Jura reds. 94/100 [^52^].
Cuvée Antide
Savagnin Vert • 4 YearsA deep Savagnin with elegance, named after Jean-François' last son. Vinified for 4 years with indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration, no added SO2. Notes of orange, citrus, and pronounced nutty character. Astonishingly pure and long on the palate. A wine that demands patience and rewards with incredible complexity [^61^].
SUL Q
Savagnin • SGN StyleA "sélection de grains nobles" of Savagnin—though SGN is not officially recognized in the Jura. Made from botrytized grapes with 250 grams residual sugar. A rare sweet wine from the region, produced only in exceptional vintages when noble rot appears. Honeyed, complex, and incredibly age-worthy [^54^].
The Négociant Project
When frost devastated 95% of their vines in 2017, the Ganevats turned to friends in Burgundy, Alsace, and the Beaujolais who share their natural wine philosophy. They purchase organically farmed grapes from these trusted growers and vinify them in Rotalier with the same care as their estate fruit [^52^][^63^].
These "négoce" wines are labeled Vin de France and include cuvées like "De Toute Beauté" (Gamay from Fleurie + Pinot from Jura), "Madelon" (Beaujolais), and "Plein Sud" (Trousseau from Arbois). Though they cannot carry the Jura AOC, they are highly sought-after and demonstrate Fanfan's ability to translate terroir regardless of origin. The 2017 frost year proved the quality of these wines—they were all that was released, yet maintained the Ganevat standard [^50^][^52^].
- Burgundy Chardonnay
- Alsace Riesling
- Fleurie Gamay
- Beaujolais Nouveau
- Macon Gamay
- Jura Pinot Noir