Alsace Natural Wine Guide: The New Generation | Biodynamic Pioneers & Zero-Zero Revolution

The Biodynamic Capital

Alsace

From the granite slopes of the Vosges to the limestone plains of the Rhine, discover France's most dynamic natural wine region—where 12.8% of all biodynamic vineyards produce Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris of startling purity and precision

Riesling Gewürztraminer Biodynamic Zero Sulfur Grand Cru

15,600 Hectares

51 Grand Crus

12.8% Biodynamic

13 Soil Types

The New Generation

Young winemakers reshaping Alsace's natural wine future

Alsace is France's most geologically diverse wine region and its biodynamic capital. Despite representing less than 5% of France's vineyard acreage, Alsace accounts for 12.8% of the country's certified biodynamic vineyards. This is a region where natural wine isn't a trend—it's a tradition that dates back to the 1990s pioneers like Domaine Barmès-Buecher (certified 1998) and continues through a new generation of winemakers who are pushing boundaries with zero-sulfur wines, skin-contact cuvées, and experimental terroir expressions.

This guide focuses on the new generation of Alsace natural winemakers—producers who have inherited or founded small estates and are reimagining what Alsatian wine can be. From Anaïs Fanti's organic Gewürztraminer orange wines in Ammerschwihr to Léo Dirringer's elegant biodynamic cuvées in Dambach-la-Ville, from Patrick Meyer's zero-sulfur Rieslings in Nothalten to Pierre Weber's volcanic sandstone Pinot Noirs in Husseren-les-Châteaux, these are winemakers who combine respect for tradition with radical innovation.

What unites them is a commitment to organic or biodynamic farming, native yeast fermentation, and minimal sulfur (often zero). They work with the region's "noble grapes"—Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir—but treat them with a freedom that previous generations couldn't imagine. The result is wines that are pure, vibrant, and deeply expressive of Alsace's complex terroir—granite, limestone, marl, sandstone, and volcanic soils.

Key Facts

Location: Northeast France, Vosges Mountains
Size: 15,600 hectares
Main Grapes: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris
Climate: Continental, dry, sunny
Soils: 13 distinct types (granite, limestone, marl)
Key Movement: Biodynamic pioneer (since 1998)
Notable: 51 Grand Cru sites

From German Roots to French Natural Wine

2,000 years of history, 30 years of biodynamic revolution

1st Century AD

Roman Plantings

Romans establish vineyards in Alsace, recognizing the potential of the Vosges foothills. The region's position on the Rhine makes it a strategic trading hub.

1648

Thirty Years' War

The Treaty of Westphalia ends the war, but Alsace remains contested territory between France and Germany for centuries. This dual heritage shapes the region's wine culture.

1975

Grand Cru System

Alsace establishes its Grand Cru classification, eventually recognizing 51 sites. Only four "noble grapes" (Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat) are permitted in Grand Cru wines.

1998

Biodynamic Pioneers

Domaine Barmès-Buecher converts to biodynamics, becoming one of the first certified estates in Alsace. The region quickly becomes France's biodynamic capital.

1990s-2000s

The Natural Wave

Producers like Patrick Meyer (Julien Meyer), Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and the Kumpf & Meyer family embrace organic farming, minimal sulfur, and native yeasts.

2010s-Present

New Generation Arrives

Young winemakers like Anaïs Fanti (2020), Léo Dirringer, Léonard Dietrich, and Pierre Weber establish estates or take over family vineyards, bringing fresh energy and zero-zero experimentation to the region.

"Everything needs time. We let nature decide. We let the wine decide." — Sophie Barmès, Domaine Barmès-Buecher

Granite, Limestone & Volcanic Soils

13 soil types in a 10-mile-wide strip

⛰️ Granite

The dominant soil of the Vosges foothills, providing structure and minerality. Riesling thrives here, developing laser-like acidity and aging potential. Found in Grand Crus like Rangen de Thann and Brand.

🗻 Limestone & Marl

Calcareous soils that give wines roundness and body. Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris excel here. The marl-limestone mix of the Zotzenberg Grand Cru is famous for Sylvaner.

🌋 Volcanic Sandstone

Unique to sites like Heiligenstein (where Yannick Meckert works), this soil provides distinctive smoky, flinty character. Riesling from here has a particular savory quality.

🏔️ Gneiss & Schist

Metamorphic rocks that provide minerality and freshness. Found in the northern Alsace, these soils produce elegant, linear wines with pronounced acidity.

💨 The Vosges Rain Shadow

The mountains protect Alsace from Atlantic weather, making it one of France's driest regions. This allows organic farming with minimal disease pressure.

🌿 Grand Cru Diversity

51 distinct Grand Cru sites, each with unique soil and exposure. From the steep granite of Rangen to the gentle limestone of Hengst, Alsace offers unparalleled terroir expression.

Key Natural Wine Terroirs

Terroir	Location	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Ammerschwihr	Central Alsace	Granite, sand	Anaïs Fanti's organic Gewürztraminer; historic village
Nothalten	Bas-Rhin	Gneiss, clay, shale	Patrick Meyer's biodynamic Riesling; multiple terroirs
Husseren-les-Châteaux	South of Colmar	Clay-limestone, marl	Pierre Weber's Grand Cru Eichberg; volcanic influences
Mittelbergheim	Bas-Rhin	Marl-limestone	Rietsch family's 7 generations; Zotzenberg Grand Cru
Dambach-la-Ville	Central Alsace	Granite, sand	Léo Dirringer's elegant biodynamic wines; 14 hectares
Rosheim	Near Strasbourg	Clay-limestone	Kumpf & Meyer's experimental cuvées; 1997 founded

The Featured Producers

The new generation defining Alsace natural wine

The Rising Stars

Anaïs Fanti

Ammerschwihr, Haut-Rhin

A fantastic young natural winemaker who established her domaine in 2020 on 1.6 hectares (80 ares of Gewürztraminer, plus Pinot Noir and Auxerrois). Currently in organic certification process, she works with spontaneous fermentation and no added sulfur. Her "Habibi Cheri" is an organic Gewürztraminer orange wine with skin contact. "Tutti Frutti Summer Love" shows her playful, experimental side. Based in the historic village of Ammerschwihr, she represents the new wave of Alsace winemakers who prioritize purity and expression over tradition. Her wines are already finding their way into natural wine bars across Europe.

Since 2020 Orange Wine Zero Sulfur

Léo Dirringer

Domaine Ruhlmann-Dirringer, Dambach-la-Ville

Child of the 1992 vintage, this young Alsatian winemaker is taking over his parents' 14-hectare estate in Dambach-la-Ville, just north of Colmar. After BTS studies and time at the Swiss Oenology School, he returned to work with Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Auxerrois, and Muscat—all certified AB organic. His wines are described as "elegant, precise, fresh, and offering great drinkability"—boding well for his future as a superstar. He represents the new generation embracing natural methods within established family estates, combining technical training with respect for terroir.

2nd Generation 14 Hectares Rising Star

Patrick Meyer

Domaine Julien Meyer, Nothalten

Took over the family vines in 1982 and immediately directed them toward organic agriculture, banning synthetic products from 1990 and minimizing sulfur from 1993. Certified biodynamic (Demeter) since 1999. Works 10 hectares around Nothalten in Bas-Rhin with multiple terroirs: Heinsenberg, Heisenstein, Muenchberg, Zellberg, and Grittermatte (gneiss, clay, shale, sand). Vinifies plots separately before blending. All 7 Alsatian grape varieties present. Known for "A La Vie" (Silvaner/Pinot Blanc), "Les Pucelles" (Gewürztraminer), and "Les Bulles d'Emma" (traditional method sparkling). Rebellious and passionate, he produces elegant, fine wines "without artifice"—truly natural.

Since 1982 Demeter Pioneer

The Innovators

Sophie Kumpf & Philippe Meyer

Domaine Kumpf-et-Meyer, Rosheim

Founded in 1997 when the young couple merged their Alsatian family estates. Both children of winegrowers, they immediately established organic principles. Work 14 hectares near Rosheim, with vines at 200-350 meters elevation on clay-limestone soils. See soil as "the basis of everything"—rooting support and source of nourishment. Their "Utopiste" Gewürztraminer undergoes 16 days skin contact and 8 months aging, creating an intense wine with melon, papaya, tea leaves, and ginger. "Je Suis de Marne" blends Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. "Restons Nature" cuvées emphasize zero intervention. They view the vine as a "sentinel of our ecosystem"—if the vine suffers, the whole system suffers.

Since 1997 Skin Contact Merged Estates

Jean-Pierre & Sophie Rietsch

Domaine Rietsch, Mittelbergheim

Family established in Mittelbergheim since the 17th century; estate founded in the early 1970s by Jean-Pierre's parents. Jean-Pierre took over in 1987 and converted to organic farming in 2008, working with La Main Verte (adapted company) for manual vineyard work. Grassing, surface tillage, and green manure sowing are central to their approach. In the cellar: gentle low-pressure pneumatic pressing (5-12 hours), slow natural fermentation (5-24 months), no sugar addition, no acidification, no fining. Experiments with maceration wines ("orange" wines) and perpetual cuvées (solera). "Quand le Chat..." (Pinot Gris maceration) and "Demoiselle" (Gewürztraminer maceration) are standouts. Wines are fluid, balanced, relaxed, with "particular drinkability."

7th Generation Maceration Pioneer Perpetual Cuvée

Yannick Meckert

Rosheim/Obernai, Bas-Rhin

Farms approximately 3.5 hectares of classic Alsatian varieties on clay and limestone soils around Obernai, plus sources from nearby villages. Works organically (not certified) with a focus on unfiltered, no-added-sulfites wines. "Baisers Volés" is 100% Pinot Noir from 35-45 year-old vines on volcanic sandstone in Heiligenstein—organic, whole cluster, 8-day maceration, 9-month barrel aging. "GRRRR!!!" is another Pinot Noir from multiple plots. Also produces Riesling and Auxerrois. His wines are described as "pure, natural, and shipped with care"—vibrant, unfiltered expressions of Alsace terroir. Represents the small-scale, hands-on approach of the new generation.

3.5 Hectares Volcanic Soils Unfiltered

The Young Visionaries

Pierre Weber

Husseren-les-Châteaux, Haut-Rhin

At 37 years old, Pierre is one of Alsace's most exciting young winemakers. After working as an environmental engineer in Paris, he returned home in 2019 to recover a parcel after his grandfather's passing. Works just under 4 hectares at one of the highest elevations in Alsace, including 1 hectare of Grand Cru Eichberg. Certified organic (10 years) and biodynamic/Demeter (3 years). 80% old vines planted 1960-1970 (massal selection). Soils are clay-limestone with marl and sandstone conglomerates. Vinifies with short or long maceration (whole cluster for reds), manual déstemming, long pressing, 9-11 months barrel aging. "C. Rouge" is pure Pinot Noir from Grand Cru Eichberg; "L. Blanc" is Riesling with 3-day maceration; "3. Orange" is Gewürztraminer with 2-week maceration. Zero sulfur, no fining, no filtration.

Grand Cru Environmental Engineer Zero Sulfur

Fanny & Jules Kleinknecht

Mittelbergheim, Bas-Rhin

The next generation of a family estate founded by their father André, who has worked Kirchberg de Barr and Zotzenberg Grand Crus for decades. Fanny and Jules have returned home after international winemaking stages, bringing fresh energy to the 9-hectare domaine. They work with all typical Alsatian grapes, focusing on terroir-driven expressions from their Grand Cru parcels. Their "Fleur d'Or" (Sylvaner/Pinot Blanc/Riesling) is dry, mineral, and slightly frizzante. The Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes shows pear and saline finish. They represent the continuity of family tradition while embracing natural methods—organic farming, native yeasts, and minimal intervention. The future of Mittelbergheim's wine heritage.

Next Generation Grand Crus Family Estate

Léonard Dietrich

Dambach-la-Ville, Bas-Rhin

From a small cellar in Dambach-la-Ville, Léonard is making "some of the most exciting wines in all of Alsace." Works with cool-climate, volcanic terroir to produce fresh, textural, grounded wines. "Rittersberg" Gewürztraminer undergoes 2-day maceration to coax out aromatics without excessive grip—hazy, citrus-dominant, refreshing. "Stammtisch" blends Auxerrois and Riesling from volcanic soils. All wines are organic, biodynamic, with minimal sulfur. His approach shows "quiet confidence—unforced and authentic." Represents the new wave of small-scale, terroir-focused producers who are redefining Alsace's reputation for overly technical wines.

Small Cellar Volcanic Terroir Minimal Sulfur

"We see the soil as the basis of everything, rooting support for the vine, but also the source of its nourishment and good health. The vine is a sentinel of our ecosystem." — Sophie Kumpf & Philippe Meyer, Domaine Kumpf-et-Meyer

The Grapes of Natural Alsace

The "noble varieties" and the art of blending

White Variety • The King

Riesling

The most prestigious Alsace grape, achieving its greatest expression on granite and volcanic soils. Natural winemakers emphasize its purity and aging potential over residual sugar.

Plantings: ~21% of vineyard
Style: Lime, green apple, petrol, mineral
Natural Wine Role: Zero sulfur, native yeast, long aging
Top Producers: Meyer, Weber, Rietsch
Notable: Can age 10-20+ years

White Variety • The Aromatic

Gewürztraminer

The "spice grape" of Alsace, known for intense aromatics. Natural winemakers use skin contact (maceration) to add structure and create "orange" wines that challenge traditional sweet styles.

Plantings: ~18% of vineyard
Style: Lychee, rose, ginger, tropical fruit
Natural Wine Role: Skin contact for structure
Top Producers: Fanti, Kumpf-et-Meyer, Dietrich
Notable: "Orange" Gewürztraminer is signature

White Variety • The Textural

Pinot Gris

Full-bodied and rich, Pinot Gris responds well to skin contact and lees aging. Natural winemakers often macerate it to create complex, food-friendly wines.

Plantings: ~15% of vineyard
Style: Pear, honey, smoke, full body
Natural Wine Role: Maceration wines ("Quand le Chat...")
Top Producers: Rietsch, Meyer
Notable: Often blended in "Gentil" cuvées

The Supporting Cast

Other important varieties in natural Alsace

Sylvaner: Once dismissed as "country wine," now prized for its mineral, saline character. The Zotzenberg Grand Cru permits Sylvaner—unique in Alsace. Rietsch and Meyer make profound examples.

Pinot Blanc & Auxerrois: Often blended, these provide fresh, apple-scented wines. Kumpf-et-Meyer's "Je Suis de Marne" blends them with Riesling and Gewürztraminer.

Pinot Noir: The only red grape permitted in Alsace AOC. Natural winemakers use whole cluster fermentation to create light, Burgundian-style reds. Weber, Meckert, and Fanti are Pinot Noir specialists.

Muscat: Two varieties (Muscat d'Alsace and Muscat Ottonel) produce aromatic, floral wines. Often made dry by natural winemakers.

Food Pairing & Gastronomy

Natural Alsace meets Franco-German cuisine

Pairings for Riesling & Co.

Dry, mineral, high acid

Choucroute: Sauerkraut with sausages and pork
Fish: Trout, pike-perch, simply prepared
Cheeses: Munster, Comté, aged goat
Asian: Thai, Vietnamese, spicy dishes
Smoked: Salmon, trout, ham
Local match: Tarte flambée (flammekueche)

Pairings for Gewürztraminer & Pinot Gris

Aromatic, textural, sometimes sweet

Exotic spices: Indian, Moroccan, Thai curries
Strong cheeses: Roquefort, Époisses, washed rind
Foie gras: The classic Alsace pairing
Fruit desserts: Tarte tatin, fruit tarts
Game: Venison with fruit sauces
Local match: Kugelhopf (Alsatian cake)

Alsace Gastronomy

The food that shaped these wines

Alsace has a unique Franco-German culinary tradition. Choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with sausages, pork, and potatoes) is the regional dish, demanding dry Riesling to cut through the richness. Tarte flambée (flammekueche)—thin bread dough with crème fraîche, onions, and lardons—is the perfect pairing for young Pinot Blanc. Munster cheese, with its pungent aroma, requires Gewürztraminer's intensity. The region's gingerbread (pain d'épices) and Kugelhopf (yeast cake) are traditional desserts. Natural Alsace wines, with their purity and lack of residual sugar, pair more elegantly with this hearty cuisine than the heavy, sweet wines of the past.

Visiting Natural Alsace

From the Route des Vins to the hidden cellars of the Vosges

🍇 The Route des Vins

Start in Strasbourg and follow the 170km wine route south to Colmar. Visit Jean-Pierre Rietsch in Mittelbergheim, Yannick Meckert in Rosheim, and Léonard Dietrich in Dambach-la-Ville. The villages of Riquewihr and Eguisheim offer picture-perfect settings.

⛰️ The Grand Crus

Explore the 51 Grand Cru sites. Visit Pierre Weber in Husseren-les-Châteaux (Grand Cru Eichberg). Taste the difference between granite (Rangen), limestone (Hengst), and volcanic (Heiligenstein) terroirs. The views of the Vosges are spectacular.

🏔️ Colmar & the South

Base yourself in Colmar to visit Anaïs Fanti in Ammerschwihr, Léo Dirringer in Dambach-la-Ville, and Patrick Meyer in Nothalten. The Unterlinden Museum and the Petite Venise district are essential stops.

5-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Strasbourg: Arrive in Strasbourg, explore the cathedral and Petite France. Dinner at a winstub (traditional Alsatian restaurant) with Yannick Meckert wines. Overnight in Strasbourg.

Day 2 - Northern Alsace: Drive to Mittelbergheim (40 minutes). Visit Jean-Pierre & Sophie Rietsch for macerated wines and family history. Continue to Rosheim to visit Kumpf & Meyer. Overnight in Obernai.

Day 3 - Central Alsace: Visit Léonard Dietrich in Dambach-la-Ville. Continue to Ammerschwihr to meet Anaïs Fanti and taste her orange Gewürztraminer. Lunch in Colmar. Afternoon at Léo Dirringer. Overnight in Colmar.

Day 4 - Grand Crus: Drive to Husseren-les-Châteaux to visit Pierre Weber and his Grand Cru Eichberg vineyards. Continue to Nothalten to meet Patrick Meyer and taste his biodynamic Rieslings. Overnight in Colmar.

Day 5 - Southern Alsace: Visit Fanny & Jules Kleinknecht in Mittelbergheim on your return north. Stop at the Haut-Koenigsbourg castle for views. Return to Strasbourg or extend to the Jura.