The Volcanic Soul of Aleatico

The story of Andrea Occhipinti begins not in a vineyard, but in a classroom — the Agrarian University of Viterbo, where a young oenology student fell in love with the vineyards of Gradoli, a medieval village on the northwestern shore of Lake Bolsena. The attraction was so profound that this corner of northern Lazio became the subject of his master's thesis. But Andrea was not content to study this terroir from a distance. He wanted to work it, to restore it, to prove that the indigenous varieties of Tuscia could produce wines of world-class distinction.

Soon after graduating, Andrea purchased 4 hectares of vineyards planted in the 1990s, set at 450 metres above sea level on the volcanic slopes of Lake Bolsena — the largest volcanic lake in Europe. The location is extraordinary: just one hour north of Rome, the lake provides a unique microclimate that moderates temperatures, extends the growing season, and protects the vines from extreme weather. The volcanic soils — rich in minerals, porous, and well-drained — impart a distinct smoky, stony character to the wines that is unmistakably Lazian.

Andrea's mission was clear from the outset: to preserve and promote the local indigenous varietals — Aleatico, Grechetto Rosso, and Procanico — through massal selection and organic farming. He began by rediscovering and restoring old, abandoned vineyards, passionately dedicating himself to producing authentic and environmentally friendly wines. The vines are planted at a density of 3,400–5,000 per hectare and trained in the spurred cordon system — a traditional approach that ensures low yields and high concentration.

Today, the estate comprises 5 hectares of hilly terrain, producing approximately 15,000 bottles per year. Andrea has also established a nursery space dedicated to cultivating clones from his best vines — a long-term investment in the genetic preservation of Gradoli's viticultural heritage. His wines have gained recognition across Italy and internationally, featured in RAW WINE, Raisin, and natural wine bars from New York to Tokyo. But the core of his work remains rooted in Gradoli — a village that time forgot, now producing some of Italy's most exciting natural wines.

At Andrea Occhipinti, the cellar philosophy is one of pure, natural expression with innovative touches. Andrea uses traditional but innovative winemaking techniques, with spontaneous fermentation and minimal intervention to preserve the integrity of the grapes and bring out the best of the volcanic terroir. The goal is not to create wines that fit a market category, but to express the unique character of Gradoli's indigenous varieties — wines that taste of Lake Bolsena, of volcanic stone, and of the ancient Etruscan heritage of Tuscia.

The techniques are precise and demanding:

Harvest & Selection: All grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, with only the best grapes being carefully selected. The harvest timing is critical — Andrea monitors each variety daily in the weeks leading up to picking, tasting berries, checking seeds, and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, acidity, and aromatic complexity align. The volcanic soils and lake microclimate often allow for later harvests than neighbouring regions, developing complex flavours without sacrificing freshness.

Fermentation: Indigenous yeasts only — no commercial strains, no enzymes, no temperature control beyond the natural coolness of the cellar. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for most cuvées, preserving primary fruit character and freshness. For some wines, extended skin contact is used — the Sottobanco, for instance, spends at least 3 days on the skins, giving it a beautiful golden hue and adding texture and tannin to the white wine.

Sulfur: Minimal sulfites — used only when absolutely necessary to stabilise the wine, and never enough to mask its natural expression. The volcanic terroir's natural acidity and the healthy fruit from organic farming provide much of the wine's stability, reducing the need for chemical intervention.

Ageing: In contrast to many other winemakers, Andrea doesn't age his wines for extended periods in wood. The focus is on preserving freshness and primary fruit character — the wines are aged briefly in tank or old barrels, then bottled young to capture their vitality. The volcanic minerality provides structure and depth without the need for oak influence.

Bottling: Wines are bottled without fining or filtration when possible, capturing the living, evolving character of the wine. The result is bottles that are honest, vibrant, and true to their terroir — each one a snapshot of a specific vineyard, vintage, and volcanic moment.

The portfolio spans red, rosé, orange, and white expressions of Gradoli's indigenous varieties:

"Alea Viva" (Aleatico Rosso): The flagship — 100% Aleatico di Gradoli, vinified dry. A perfect summer red with notes of pepper, mulberry, cherry, and minerals. In the mouth it is fresh, but above all savoury, fruity, crunchy, and satisfying. Complex and very aromatic — red violets and lush raspberries follow with cherries and lovely earthiness while wild herbs dance around the edges of your palate. The wine that redefined Aleatico in Italy.

"Alea Rosa" (Rosato): The rosé expression of Aleatico — cherry pink in the glass. The nose evolves into fruity notes of cherry and strawberry, with the same peppery, mineral backbone as the red. Fresh, vibrant, and utterly drinkable. A rosé of structure and savouriness, not pale simplicity.

"Alter Alea" (Rosato): Another rosato interpretation — perhaps from different vineyard sites or with different skin contact. Pure, natural, and full of volcanic character. The alter ego of Alea Rosa, showing another facet of Aleatico's versatility.

"Arcaico" (Lazio Rosso): A red blend, likely Grechetto Rosso-based, with structure, acidity, and a distinctive herbal, earthy character. The ancient wine of Tuscia — rustic, honest, and deeply satisfying. A wine that speaks of tradition and terroir in equal measure.

"Sottobanco" (Bianco): 100% Procanico with at least 3 days of skin contact, giving it a beautiful golden hue. Notes of honey crisp apple, citrus zest, and a distinct saline minerality. The orange wine that proves Procanico's potential for texture and complexity — fresh, textured, and volcanic.

"Alkes" (Rosato): Another rosé expression — perhaps a lighter, more immediate style than Alea Rosa. Fresh, youthful, and vibrant. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified using native yeasts and minimal sulfites, capturing the pure, unadorned character of the variety.