From Mercedes mechanic's son to Morgon star
Anthony Thévenet—nicknamed "Nioche" (derived from "Tête d'Hyène" or "Hyena's head" for his easy laughter)—grew up in Villié-Morgon, where his father Guy worked as a Mercedes mechanic [^180^]. His grandparents were retired winegrowers with cellar facilities amid their vines in the Morgon climat of Douby, just across the road from Jean Foillard's winery and near the Lapierre compound [^180^].
Before making his own wine, Anthony did a brief stint servicing agricultural machinery in Mâcon, then worked part-time for Georges Descombes (via school friend Damien Coquelet, Descombes' stepson) from 2005-2012. From 2012-2017, he worked as Jean Foillard's right-hand man for five years [^176^][^180^].
"Can you imagine there are people who put 4g sulfur at vatting to make wine, and we put in zero, and we make nonetheless good wine... You don't need to pollute the wine to make wine..."
In 2013, at age 29, he produced his first vintage under his own name—just 2,500 bottles from his family's Douby vines. His father left his career as a mechanic to support his son's dream, and now spends all his time tending to the vines alongside Anthony [^176^][^180^].
Infusion fermentations and the metal horse
Anthony and his father farm 9 hectares (as of recent count), slowly converting to organic viticulture as they grow their market. They do everything by hand, including weed removal with the help of their "metal horse"—a small tractor used to pull a metal blade they walk behind and guide by hand to isolate weeds and barely skim the topsoil [^176^].
All wines undergo 100% whole-bunch carbonic fermentation using "infusion" style—little to no movement of the grapes while fermenting—for around 20 days (sometimes 10-25 days). No cultured yeasts. All wines complete malolactic fermentation. Sulfites are only added at bottling, never more than 15 mg/L (often 2g or less), with no sulfur added at any other stage [^176^][^180^].
Aging occurs in a mix of 60hl concrete vats and 225-600L barrels (mostly used, larger 600L demi-muids) for 5-8 months depending on wine and vintage. No fining, no filtration [^176^].
- 100% whole bunch
- Infusion fermentation
- 20 days maceration
- Metal horse weeding
- <15mg/L SO2
- No fining/filtering
Seven years with Descombes, five with Foillard
Georges Descombes
Anthony worked part-time with Georges Descombes from 2005-2012 (seven years), introduced through school friend Damien Coquelet (Descombes' stepson). Descombes is one of the local veterans of natural winemaking, and this apprenticeship taught Anthony the fundamentals of observing nature—a fundamental aspect of natural winemaking [^176^][^180^].
Jean Foillard
From 2012-2017, Anthony worked as Jean Foillard's right-hand man for five years—"le bras droit de Jean Foillard." This proximity to one of Beaujolais' true luminaries placed Anthony squarely within the realpolitik wing of natural wine. His cellar is a stone's throw from Foillard's winery and the Lapierre compound [^176^][^180^].
From 150-year-old vines to Côte du Py
Morgon "Cuvée Centenaire"
From 150-year-old vines (some of the most venerable in France, predating phylloxera)—gnarled, disorderly branches straining across the rows like desert explorers dying of thirst. These pixelated, crystalline wines will give a Grand Cru from the Côte d'Or a run for its money. Just 1,200 bottles produced. Raised in used 500-liter demi-muids. Drinking window: 2025-2042 [^176^][^190^][^200^].
Pre-phylloxera
1,200 bottles
95 points (Vinous)
Morgon "Cuvée Julia"
From a specific 1 hectare plot on Côte du Py—the famous hill with schist bedrock (unlike the granite elsewhere in Morgon). Vines planted in 1935 (over 80 years old). Very complex and quite structured, fresh but possessing a deep, dark mineral core. Tannic and forceful, befitting the reputation of the climat. If you're looking for a Beaujolais that can age—or even be paired with steak—this is it [^176^][^199^].
Schist bedrock
1935 planting
Age-worthy
Morgon Vieilles Vignes
From two old Douby parcels: one planted in 1935, the other in 1865 (the latter pre-phylloxera). A blend that sees two rackings, 8 months barrel age, and another 7 months in bottle before release. Unfiltered, with weightless concentration and almost Pinot-like elegance. Limpid and fine, with delicious grip, cherries and black olive competing on the nose [^176^][^180^].
8 months barrels
7 months bottle
Unfiltered
Morgon "Les Clos"
From vines just in front of the winery on soils of clay with a little sand. 10-day maceration. Sprightly on the nose with rose petal infused transparent red fruit. Very elegant, medium-bodied with a life-affirming mineral-driven entry. Vivid and refined with a precise tart finish. 94 points Neal Martin: "simply one of the best you will come across in this vintage. Brilliant" [^183^].
10-day maceration
94 points
2021 debut
Morgon (Classic)
From younger vines in Douby and Corcellettes—the fleshier, fruitier side of Morgon. Sandy soils here make for "keen wines that drink well and aren't very aggressive in the mouth." Aged in cement tanks with light fining before bottling (unlike the unfiltered Vieilles Vignes). Still has the weight of the cru with all the licorice and violet notes that make Morgon beloved [^176^][^180^].
Cement aged
Light fining
Approachable
Chénas Vieilles Vignes
Added to the range in 2017. From very old vines on a soft slope with deep pink granite sand and gravel—a combination that makes for wines with great aromatic lift, mineral intensity and depth. The ancient vines are bottled under this label, while younger vines are bottled simply as Chénas. Converted immediately to organic culture. The 2017 overcame hail damage to produce a very cohesive wine [^176^][^200^].
Deep gravel
Old vines
Aromatic lift
Beaujolais-Villages
A combination of three modest properties in Lancié, totaling 0.7 hectares. Fresh, easy-drinking, crunchy red fruit with a nice mineral edge that elevates the wine beyond typical village level. The epitome of glou-glou Beaujolais with serious underlying structure [^194^][^196^].
0.7 hectares
Crunchy fruit
Mineral edge
Beaujolais Blanc
A rare white wine from the Beaujolais, produced in limited quantities. Showcases Anthony's versatility as a vigneron beyond the Gamay that defines the region [^176^].
Beaujolais Blanc
Rare cuvée
Natural approach
The Prodigy of Douby
Anthony Thévenet represents the new generation of Beaujolais—intimately connected to the old guard (working for Descombes and Foillard, treated "like a son" by Jean-Louis Dutraive) yet forging his own path with wines that combine lift, structure, and guts [^176^][^180^].
His interpretation is a unique combination of wines from decades past (aged in large older barrels, serious and age-worthy) and today's trend of voluptuously fruity, early-drinking renditions. The writing was on the wall from his fantastic 2013 and 2014 vintages: he is destined to carve out a place among the best in Beaujolais during our lifetime [^176^]. From 150-year-old vines that predate phylloxera to the schist slopes of Côte du Py, Anthony Thévenet is making Morgon that rivals Grand Cru Burgundy—honest, terroir-driven, and a joy to drink [^190^].
- First vintage 2013 (2,500 bottles)
- Mentored by Descombes (7 years)
- Worked for Foillard (5 years)
- Father Guy: ex-Mercedes mechanic
- 9 hectares in Morgon & Chénas
- Douby & Corcellettes climats
- 150-year-old vines (Centenaire)
- 1865 vines (pre-phylloxera)
- 1935 vines (Cuvée Julia)
- 100% whole bunch carbonic
- Infusion fermentation (20 days)
- Metal horse weeding
- <15mg/L SO2 (often 2g)
- No fining, no filtration
- Nickname: "Nioche" (Hyena)

