Valle d'Aosta

THE ALPINE FRONTIER

From Europe's highest vineyards in Morgex to the terraced slopes of Enfer d'Arvier, discover Italy's smallest wine region—where mountain grapes like Prié Blanc and Cornalin reach altitudes of 900 meters and isolation preserves ancient traditions

Valle d'Aosta Natural Wine Guide: The Alpine Frontier | High-Altitude Prié Blanc & Mountain Cornalin

450 Hectares Under Vine

900m Max Altitude

25 BC Roman Vines

1985 First DOC

Italy's Mountain Sanctuary

Where the Alps meet the vine

Valle d'Aosta—Italy's smallest and most mountainous region—nestles in the central Alps, bordered by France, Switzerland, and Piedmont. It is a place of extremes: Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco) rises to 4,808 meters while vineyards cling to slopes at 900 meters above sea level, making them the highest in Europe. This dramatic topography created a viticultural time capsule. While phylloxera and industrialization transformed the rest of Italy's wine landscape, Aosta's isolation—steep valleys accessible only by narrow mountain roads—preserved indigenous grapes found nowhere else on earth.

This guide explores the renaissance of Valle d'Aosta natural wine—a movement driven by young producers returning to ancestral terraces and rejecting industrial agriculture in favor of heroic viticulture. Costantino Charrère (Les Crêtes) pioneered the rediscovery of indigenous varieties like Petite Arvine and Cornalin in the 1980s. The Grosjean family (Saint-Pierre) crafts zero-sulfur Fumin and Mayolet from organic high-altitude vineyards. La Source (Aymavilles) experiments with skin-contact Prié Blanc and ancestral method pet-nats. Maison Anselmet (Villeneuve) bridges tradition and innovation with biodynamic mountain wines.

What distinguishes Aosta natural wine is altitude as terroir—the dramatic diurnal temperature shifts (hot days, freezing nights) create grapes with intense acidity, thick skins, and concentrated flavors without high alcohol. The wines are often shockingly mineral: salty Prié Blanc that tastes of glacier water, smoky Fumin with grip like Northern Rhône Syrah, and Petit Rouge with the crunch of alpine cranberries. Production is microscopic—often 500 cases per producer—but the quality rivals far more famous regions.

Key Facts

Location: Northwestern Italy, central Alps
History: Celtic, Roman, then Savoyard
Key Regions: Morgex, Enfer d'Arvier, Torrette, Nus, Gamay
Main Grapes: Petit Rouge, Prié Blanc, Fumin, Cornalin, Mayolet
Method: Terraced, heroic viticulture, organic, high altitude
Style: High acid, mineral, saline, elegant
Notable: Highest vineyards in Europe (up to 1,200m)

From Roman Terraces to Alpine Heroes

Two millennia of mountain viticulture

25 BC

Roman Conquest & Terraces

Roman legions under Aulus Terentius Varro Murena conquer the Salassi (Celtic tribe) and establish Augusta Praetoria (modern Aosta). They immediately terrace the steep valley walls using dry-stone techniques (murus a secco) to plant vines, recognizing the south-facing slopes' potential. The "Enfer" (Hell) d'Arvier gets its name from the intense heat reflecting off the stone walls. Viticulture becomes central to the local economy—wine taxes paid to Rome.

Middle Ages

Monks & Mountain Fortresses

The Benedictines of Saint-Maurice d'Agaune and the Knights of Saint Maurice maintain vineyards to supply mountain monasteries and fortresses. The Dukes of Savoy (who rule from Chambéry and later Turin) promote Aosta wines as "mountain tonic" for their court. Phylloxera arrives late (1905) due to isolation and sandy soils in some areas, but ultimately devastates the region, reducing vineyard area by 80%. Many indigenous varieties nearly vanish.

1970s-1980s

The Extinction Crisis

Industrialization and depopulation threaten total collapse. Young people flee to Turin and Milan for factory work. Vineyards are abandoned as elderly farmers cannot maintain the back-breaking terraced slopes. Only a handful of families (Charrère, Grosjean, Anselmet) persist. Costantino Charrère begins researching and replanting nearly extinct varieties like Cornalin and Petite Arvine from isolated mountain plots, effectively saving them from extinction.

1985

DOC Recognition & Revival

Valle d'Aosta receives its first DOC designation, legitimizing its unique terroirs: Enfer d'Arvier, Torrette, Nus, Morgex et de La Salle. This sparks renewed interest in indigenous grapes. The "heroic viticulture" movement begins—recognizing the difficulty of farming these steep terraces. Some producers experiment with organic farming, though the climate (heavy rain, cold) makes it challenging.

2000-2015

The Natural Wine Awakening

The Grosjean family (already organic since 1975) begins experimenting with zero-sulfur wines and indigenous yeast fermentation. Young producers return from university (Turin, Milan) to reclaim ancestral terraces. "La Source" (founded 2008) introduces natural wine techniques—skin contact, pet-nats, amphora aging—to traditional varieties. The "Alpine Wine" identity forms—distinct from Piedmontese or French Savoie wine, emphasizing altitude and minerality.

2016-Present

International Recognition

Aosta natural wine gains cult status in Paris, London, and New York. The extreme altitude and unique grapes (Prié Blanc, Fumin) attract sommeliers seeking alternatives to international varieties. Climate change ironically helps—warmer summers allow better ripening at high altitudes while maintaining acidity. However, glacier retreat and unpredictable weather threaten the delicate balance. The region remains tiny (450ha total) but influential beyond its size.

"We don't make wine here for commerce. We make it because these terraces are our history. To abandon them would be to erase our ancestors' labor. The mountain demands humility—you cannot fight nature here, you must collaborate with it." — Costantino Charrère, Les Crêtes

From Mont Blanc to Monte Rosa

Europe's highest vineyards and glacial soils

🏔️ Morgex et de La Salle

The highest vineyards in Europe (1,050-1,200m altitude) in the Valdigne (upper valley) beneath Mont Blanc. Prié Blanc is the only variety that ripens here, planted on glacial moraine and sandy soils. Extreme diurnal shifts (20°C difference day/night) create searing acidity. The "Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle" is the DOC—light, saline, mineral, with flavors of mountain herbs and glacial water. Natural winemakers (La Source, Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex) use wild fermentation and sometimes skin contact. The vineyards are surrounded by glaciers—climate change is visible here.

🔥 Enfer d'Arvier

"Hell of Arvier"—named for the intense heat trapped by the valley walls and stone terraces. Small amphitheater of vineyards (600-850m) surrounding the village of Arvier. Petit Rouge is king here, producing wines of surprising power despite the altitude. Soil is granitic with iron-rich red sands (giving the "hellish" color). Organic farming is difficult due to the steepness (45° slopes) but rewarded with complex, spicy reds. The "Torrette" DOC overlaps here—Petit Rouge plus other indigenous varieties.

🍇 Nus

Valley floor and slopes around the village of Nus (500-800m). Mixed soils—glacial moraine, alluvial deposits, granite. Fumin thrives here (also called "Fumin de Nus"), producing smoky, peppery reds with firm tannins. Also Petite Arvine (white) which produces wines with grapefruit and saline notes. More accessible than Morgex or Enfer, with several established producers (Grosjean, Les Crêtes). The "Nus Malvoisie" (actually Pinot Grigio) is also produced but less interesting for natural wine.

🌲 Torrette

Central valley, surrounding Aosta city. Lower altitude (550-750m) than other sub-zones. Petit Rouge based blends (minimum 70%), often with Fumin, Cornalin, and Mayolet. Sandier, well-draining soils. The wines are lighter, fruitier, more approachable—"mountain glou-glou." Many younger natural producers work here due to slightly easier farming (less extreme than Enfer or Morgex). Good for discovering the entry-level character of Aosta reds.

⚪ Arnad-Montjovet

Lower valley (east), famous for "Lard d'Arnad" (cured pork fat) as much as wine. Mixed grape varieties including Nebbiolo (called Picotendro locally), Fumin, and Petit Rouge. Cooler, wetter climate. Terraced vineyards on schist and granite. Less developed for natural wine but traditional methods persist. The "Donnas" and "Carema" (technically Piedmont but culturally Aosta) overlap zones are here.

🗻 Gamay (Chambave)

Specific zone for Gamay (yes, the Beaujolais grape), planted in the Chambave area. Light, fruity reds and rosés. Not typically "natural wine" territory (Gamay is often industrial) but some producers make zero-sulfur versions. Also Moscato Bianco for passito wines. Represents the French/Savoyard influence in the region's viticulture.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Zone	Altitude	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Morgex	1,050-1,200m	Glacial moraine, sand	Saline, mineral, electric acid
Enfer d'Arvier	600-850m	Granite, iron-rich	Spicy, structured, intense
Nus	500-800m	Moraine, alluvial	Smoky, firm tannins, complex
Torrette	550-750m	Sand, gravel	Light, fruity, approachable
Arnad	400-600m	Schist, granite	Rustic, traditional, earthy

The Featured Producers

Heroic viticulturists of the Alps

The Legends - Les Crêtes & Grosjean

Costantino Charrère

Les Crêtes, Aymavilles

The godfather of modern Aosta wine. Founded in 1989, Costantino single-handedly saved Cornalin and Petite Arvine from extinction by sourcing cuttings from isolated 100-year-old vines. The estate now farms 25 hectares organically (rare for the region's scale). "Cornalin" is the flagship—fermented with native yeast, aged in used oak, minimal sulfur. Also makes "Fumin" (smoky and structured) and "Pinot Grigio" that actually tastes like something. Costantino's research into indigenous varieties provided the genetic material for most other producers in the valley. Not strictly "natural" (uses some sulfur) but spiritually aligned—indigenous yeast, organic farming, low intervention.

Indigenous Savior Cornalin Organic Heritage

Grosjean Family

Saint-Pierre, Valle d'Aosta

Five generations of mountain farmers, organic since 1975 (pioneers), now run by brothers Jean-Pierre, Eraldo, and their children. 7 hectares of terraced vineyards at 750-850m. The "Vigne Rovettaz" (Fumin) and "Vigne Tzeriat" (Mayolet) are single-vineyard expressions of indigenous grapes. They make a zero-sulfur "Vini Naturali" line including "Petit Rouge Natural" and "Fumin Natural"—wild ferment, unfined, unfiltered. Also excellent "Torrette" and "Pinot Noir." The family represents the bridge between tradition and natural wine—respecting the mountain while embracing non-intervention.

Zero Sulfur Family Estate Mayolet Saint-Pierre

Renato Thedy

Maison Anselmet, Villeneuve

Founded 1978, now run by Renato Thedy (married into the Anselmet family). 7 hectares across multiple crus. Biodynamic farming (Demeter), indigenous yeast, low sulfur. "Chardonnay Côteau de la Tour" shows Burgundian influence but with mountain minerality. "Pinot Noir" and "Fumin" are standouts. Thedy experiments with amphora aging for "Fumin" and "Cornalin." More "polished" than Grosjean but still authentic mountain expression. The estate hosts an annual "Festa della Vendemmia" (harvest festival) that draws natural wine lovers from across Italy.

Biodynamic Demeter Amphora Villeneuve

The New Generation - Natural & Experimental

La Source (Loïc & Fabien Perrier)

Aymavilles, Valle d'Aosta

Brothers who revolutionized Aosta natural wine since 2008. Focus on Prié Blanc (Morgex) with skin contact ("Orange de Morgex") and pet-nat ("Pet-Nat Blanc"). Also make "Fumin" and "Petit Rouge" with zero sulfur, carbonic maceration, and whole-cluster fermentation. Very small production (3,000 bottles total). The "Orange" is revolutionary—Prié Blanc on skins for 3 weeks, creating a tannic, herbal, saline amber wine unlike anything else in Italy. Represent the "French" influence (name is French, techniques are Beaujolais-meets-Jura). Cult following in Paris and London.

Skin Contact Pet-Nat Prié Blanc Cult

Danilo Thomain

Enfer d'Arvier

Tiny producer (1.5 hectares) in the Enfer d'Arvier amphitheater. Organic farming, indigenous yeast, minimal sulfur. "Petit Rouge" is the focus—fermented in concrete, aged in old oak. Also makes "Cornalin" and "Fumin" blends. Very traditional cellar (grandfather's cellar) but natural philosophy. The wines are rustic, honest, deeply mineral. Hard to find—mostly sold locally or to private clients. Represents the "garagiste" spirit of Aosta—one man, steep terraces, ancient stone cellar.

Garagiste Enfer d'Arvier Micro-Production Rustic

Cave des Onze Communes

Aymavilles

Cooperative representing 11 villages (hence the name), but with a specific "natural wine" project led by young winemaker Marco Cugusi. "Valdôn" line includes zero-sulfur Vuillermin (rare indigenous red) and Petit Rouge. While cooperatives are usually industrial, this is an exception—small growers pooling resources to make natural wine. The Vuillermin is particularly interesting—floral, spicy, medium-bodied, almost Gamay-like but distinctly Alpine. Good entry point for Aosta natural wine due to slightly higher availability.

Cooperative Vuillermin Accessible Onze Communes

Morgex - The Highest Vineyards

Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex

Morgex, Valdigne

Cooperative of growers farming Europe's highest vineyards (1,050-1,200m). Focus exclusively on Prié Blanc. "Cuvée des Gletschers" (Glaciers) is made with native yeast, minimal sulfur, and bottled young to preserve freshness. The "Vieilles Vignes" (old vines) comes from 60+ year old pergola-trained vines. While not strictly "natural" (cooperative standards), the extreme terroir creates wines that are essentially natural in character—high acid, low alcohol (11%), no need for manipulation. The glaciers are visible from the cellar.

Highest Vineyard Prié Blanc Glacier Valdigne

Ermes Pavese

La Poya, Morgex

Young winemaker working 3 hectares of Prié Blanc at 1,100m. Organic farming, wild ferment, zero sulfur in some cuvées. "Blanc de Morgex Nature" is the flagship—unfiltered, cloudy, tasting of mountain herbs, glacial water, and salt. Also experiments with "maceration" (skin contact) Prié Blanc. Part of the "new guard" reclaiming abandoned high-altitude terraces. Very limited production—allocated to natural wine bars in Turin and Milan.

Zero Sulfur High Altitude Young Guard Morgex

Clos du Tuf

Saint-Pierre

Tiny estate (1 hectare) focusing on Mayolet and Fumin. The name refers to the "tufa" (porous limestone) cellars used for aging. Natural fermentation, no temperature control (mountain cold does the job), minimal sulfur. "Mayolet" is floral and elegant—often compared to Pinot Noir but with alpine herbs. "Fumin" is smoky and structured. Very small production (500 cases), mostly sold at the cellar door. Represents the "boutique" side of Aosta natural wine.

Mayolet Tufa Cellar Boutique Saint-Pierre

"Making wine at 1,200 meters is not agriculture—it's mountaineering with vines. Every bottle requires 10 times the labor of valley wine. But when you taste the salinity, the glacier water minerality, you understand why we don't move to the plains." — Loïc Perrier, La Source

The Grapes of the Alps

Indigenous varieties found nowhere else

Indigenous White • The Mountain Survivor

Prié Blanc

Also called "Blanc de Morgex." Grows exclusively in Valle d'Aosta at extreme altitudes (900-1,200m), making it Europe's highest vineyard grape. Possibly brought by Burgundian monks or indigenous to the valley. Thick-skinned, late budding, resistant to frost. Produces wines of shocking acidity (7-8g/L tartaric), low alcohol (10-11%), and intense salinity. Natural winemakers use it for still whites, pet-nats, and orange wines. Flavors of lemon peel, mountain herbs (genepy), crushed stones, and glacier water. No oak needed—stainless steel or concrete preserves the purity.

Style: High acid, mineral, saline, light
Natural Wine Role: Pet-nat, orange wine, pure glacier expression
Top Producers: La Source, Ermes Pavese, Cave du Vin Blanc
Regions: Morgex et de La Salle only
Notable: Highest altitude vines in Europe

Indigenous Red • The Iron Grape

Fumin

The "smoky" one (from Latin "fumus"—smoke). Deeply colored, thick-skinned red variety that produces wines with intense pigment, firm tannins, and notes of smoke, black pepper, and dark berries. Historically blended, now championed as a single variety by natural producers. Requires long maceration (20-30 days) to soften tannins. Aged in concrete or old oak. Similar to Northern Rhône Syrah but with alpine freshness. The "Fumin de Nus" is the classic expression, but grown throughout the valley. Natural versions often show earthy, gamey notes with age.

Style: Dark, smoky, tannic, peppery
Natural Wine Role: Whole cluster, long maceration, concrete aging
Top Producers: Grosjean, Les Crêtes, Maison Anselmet
Regions: Nus, Enfer d'Arvier, Torrette
Notable: Name refers to smoky character

Indigenous Red • The Plucky Local

Petit Rouge

The most planted red grape in Aosta (25% of production). "Little Red" refers to the small berry size. Pale color but high acidity and surprising alcohol potential for the altitude. Produces light-to-medium bodied wines with flavors of cranberry, raspberry, white pepper, and herbs. The "Torrette" DOC is based on Petit Rouge (minimum 70%). Natural winemakers use carbonic maceration or whole-cluster fermentation to enhance the peppery, fruity character. Often compared to Grignolino or Poulsard—light color, crunchy tannins, very drinkable.

Style: Light, peppery, acidic, fruity
Natural Wine Role: Carbonic, glou-glou, chillable red
Top Producers: Grosjean, Danilo Thomain, Cave des Onze
Regions: Torrette, Enfer d'Arvier, Nus
Notable: Despite name, can reach 13% alcohol

More Aosta Varieties

Rare grapes from the mountain sanctuary

Cornalin: "Cornalin d'Aosta" (not to be confused with Swiss Cornalin). Nearly extinct, saved by Charrère. Deep color, violet aromatics, rustic tannins. Makes profound, age-worthy reds.

Mayolet: Elegant, floral red with Pinot Noir-like character but distinct alpine herbs. Thin-skinned, requires careful handling. Grosjean and Clos du Tuf specialize in it.

Vuillermin: Rare red (less than 10 hectares total). Floral (violets), spicy, medium body. Cave des Onze Communes makes the benchmark.

Petite Arvine: White grape (also grown in Valais, Switzerland). Grapefruit, saline, high acid. Charrère makes the Italian benchmark.

Pinot Noir: Planted by Savoyard nobility. Makes elegant, mineral reds at high altitude. Anselmet and Grosjean make excellent versions.

Minnus: Ancient white variety, nearly extinct, being revived by experimental producers. Herbaceous, acidic.

Food Pairing & Alpine Cuisine

Fontina, lard, and polenta concia

For Prié Blanc & High-Altitude Whites

Mineral wines meet mountain dairy

Fonduta: Fontina cheese fondue with egg yolk
Raclette: Melted cheese over potatoes
Crozets: Small buckwheat pasta with butter
Trout: Fresh from alpine streams
Jambon de Bosses: High-altitude cured ham

For Fumin & Structured Reds

Smoky tannins meet hearty fare

Carbonade: Beef stew with red wine
Polenta concia: With Fontina and butter
Wild boar: Stew or roasted
Lard d'Arnad: Cured pork fat on bread
Game birds: Ptarmigan, grouse

For Petit Rouge & Light Reds

Alpine glou-glou meets charcuterie

Valdostana charcuterie: Motzetta, salami, prosciutto
Pizza: Aosta style with Fontina
Bruschetta: With lard and herbs
Monte bianco: Chestnut dessert (with sweet versions)
Salad: With walnuts and local honey

For Orange & Pet-Nat Wines

Natural wine meets alpine herbs

Carne cruda: Raw beef with lemon and oil
Soufflé: Cheese soufflé (Seupa de Valpelline)
Mushrooms: Porcini, chanterelles
Spicy sausage: Mocetta (dried beef)
Walnuts: Aosta valley is famous for them

Valle d'Aosta Culinary Traditions

The Savoyard influence and mountain survival food

Fontina DOP: The king of cheeses—cow's milk, nutty, melts perfectly. Required for fonduta and polenta concia. Pairs with Fumin and Cornalin.

Lard d'Arnad DOP: Cured pork fat seasoned with herbs, aged in wooden containers ("doils"). Eat raw on rye bread with honey. Perfect with Prié Blanc.

Polenta Concia: Polenta enriched with Fontina, butter, and sometimes egg—hearty mountain fuel for cold winters. Pairs with any red.

Seupa de Valpelline: Bread and cabbage soup with Fontina baked on top. The ultimate comfort food.

Genepy: Alpine herb liqueur (Artemisia) made by monks and farmers. Digestif after meals.

Café from Turin: While not Aosta, the proximity to Piedmont means excellent coffee culture in Aosta city.

Visiting Natural Aosta

From Mont Blanc to medieval castles

🏔️ The High Valley (Valdigne)

Base in Courmayeur (ski resort) or La Thuile. Morgex (visit Cave du Vin Blanc, Ermes Pavese). Views of Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco). Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo (mountain pass). Hiking in Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. This is the "wild" Aosta—glaciers visible, extreme altitude, very traditional. Access: A5 motorway from Turin. Best in summer (vineyards accessible) or winter (ski + wine).

🔥 Central Valley (Enfer & Aosta)

Base in Aosta city (Roman ruins, charming old town). Enfer d'Arvier (Danilo Thomain, steep terraces). Les Crêtes (Aymavilles—appointment). La Source (Aymavilles). Grosjean (Saint-Pierre). Also visit Fénis Castle (medieval), Bard Fort (museum). This is the logistical center—good restaurants (Alpage, Petit Duke), wine shops (Cave des Onze Communes). Year-round access.

🍇 Lower Valley (Nus & Torrette)

Base in Saint-Vincent (casino town, spa) or Châtillon. Nus (Maison Anselmet, Grosjean). Torrette (various small producers). Chambave (Moscato country). Castello di Issogne (Renaissance castle with vineyards). Milder climate, easier driving. Good for autumn (harvest season, colors).

Valle d'Aosta Travel Tips

Logistics for mountain wine tourism

Language: Italian and French are both official. Most locals speak both. Road signs in French (Aoste, Morgex).

Access: Fly to Turin (1.5 hours) or Geneva (2 hours) or Milan Malpensa (2 hours). Car essential—public transport exists but vineyards are remote.

Timing: May-October for vineyard visits. Winter for skiing (Courmayeur, Cervinia, Pila). Harvest is late September (high altitude).

Walking: Comfortable shoes essential—even cellar visits require walking on steep terraces.

Altitude: Drink water and take it slow if coming from sea level. The wineries are at 600-1,200m.

Border: Easy day trips to Chamonix (France) or Martigny (Switzerland) for comparison.

Currency: Euro (Italy), though Swiss Francs useful if crossing to Valais.

5-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrival Aosta: Arrive Aosta. Roman theater, cathedral. Dinner with local Fumin. Overnight Aosta.

Day 2 - Enfer & Central: Morning: Danilo Thomain (Enfer d'Arvier—steep terraces). Lunch: Arnad (try Lard d'Arnad). Afternoon: Les Crêtes (tasting with Costantino or family). Overnight Aosta.

Day 3 - Morgex & Mont Blanc: Drive to Morgex (1 hour). Ermes Pavese or Cave du Vin Blanc (highest vineyards). Lunch in Courmayeur (views of Mont Blanc). Hike Val Veny. Overnight Courmayeur.

Day 4 - Saint-Pierre & Nus: Grosjean (Saint-Pierre—zero sulfur tasting). Maison Anselmet (Nus). Fénis Castle. Overnight Saint-Vincent or Châtillon.

Day 5 - Torrette & Departure: La Source (Aymavilles—natural wine, pet-nats). Cave des Onze Communes (cooperative). Return to Turin or Milan for departure.

Alternative: Add 2 days for skiing (Courmayeur or Cervinia) in winter.