Australia Natural Wine Guide: The Wild South | Natural Selection Theory & the New Wave

The Wild South

Australia

From the Basket Range revolution to the Margaret River fringe, discover how a motley crew of rebels changed Australian wine forever—through hot pants, ceramic eggs, and zero-addition winemaking that honors the land and challenges convention

Natural Selection Theory Basket Range Zero Sulfur Living Wines Biodynamic Punk Wine

2010 Natural Selection Theory Founded

65+ Wine Regions

150+ Varieties

0 Additions

The Great Southern Land

Where natural wine became punk rock

Australian natural wine didn't emerge from tradition—it exploded from rebellion. In 2010, three wild-looking South Australian winemakers—James Erskine (Jauma), Anton van Klopper (Lucy Margaux), and Tom Shobbrook (Shobbrook)—joined forces with Sydney artist Sam Hughes to form Natural Selection Theory. They wore hot pants, played music to ceramic eggs, delivered wine in wheelbarrows, and sparked a revolution that would transform Australia's wine culture from industrial to artisanal, from conventional to radical.

This guide focuses on the new wave of Australian natural winemakers—producers who combine organic and biodynamic farming with zero-addition winemaking. From Botobolar's pioneering preservative-free legacy in Mudgee to Si Vintners' biodynamic precision in Margaret River, from the Basket Range collective (Gentle Folk, Lucy M, Jauma, Manon) to boundary-pushers like Konpira Maru sourcing across state lines, these winemakers prove that Australian wine can be thoughtful, sustainable, and alive.

What unites them is a commitment to organic or biodynamic farming, native yeast fermentation, no additions (including sulfur), and unfiltered, unfined bottling. They work with diverse varieties—from classic Shiraz and Chardonnay to experimental Garganega and Pinot Meunier—expressing Australia's varied terroirs with minimal intervention and maximum care.

Key Facts

Movement Founded: 2010 (Natural Selection Theory)
Epicenter: Basket Range, Adelaide Hills
Key Regions: Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley, Margaret River, Mudgee
Main Grapes: Shiraz, Grenache, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc
Method: Zero additions, wild ferment, ceramic eggs
Style: Fresh, bright, lower alcohol (10-12%)
Notable: "Hot pants tours" and egg projects

From Industrial to Anarchic

The story of Natural Selection Theory and the Australian natural wine revolution

1788

First Fleet Arrives

Vines arrive with the First Fleet, but early attempts at winemaking in Sydney fail due to climate. The industry eventually establishes in South Australia (Barossa, McLaren Vale) and Victoria.

1971

Botobolar's Pioneering Vision

Gil and Vincie Wahlquist establish Botobolar Vineyard in Mudgee, committing to organic viticulture from inception. When certification bodies are created, Botobolar becomes Australia's first certified organic vineyard. They begin making preservative-free wines in 1984—decades ahead of the curve.

2000s

The Industrial Era

Australian wine dominates globally with "sunshine in a glass"—big, bold, heavily extracted Shiraz and Chardonnay. But a counter-culture emerges in cooler climates like Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley, with winemakers exploring whole bunch fermentation and lower alcohol.

2010

Natural Selection Theory Forms

James Erskine, Anton van Klopper, and Tom Shobbrook meet Sam Hughes in Sydney. They bond over Slovenian amber wine and form Natural Selection Theory. Their "Voice of the People" wines—sold in demijohns from wheelbarrows—and the infamous "Egg Project" (Hunter Semillon fermented in ceramic eggs with music played to them) ignite the movement.

2012

The Hot Pants Tour

Natural Selection Theory conducts their legendary "Hot Pants Tour"—traveling Australia in a Land Rover, wearing colorful hot pants, sleeping on roadsides, and serving unsulfured wine to sommeliers. The movement gains international attention, though Sam Hughes tragically passes away later that year.

2013-Present

The Basket Range Explosion

The Adelaide Hills parish of Basket Range becomes the epicenter of Australian natural wine. Gentle Folk, Lucy M, Jauma, Manon, and others establish a community of like-minded producers. The "Basket Range" style—fresh, bright, lower alcohol, zero additions—becomes synonymous with Australian natural wine.

"We wanted to shake the system. It was a punk attitude." — James Erskine, on Natural Selection Theory

Basket Range, Mudgee & the Great Dividing Range

The diverse terroirs shaping Australian natural wine

🏔️ Basket Range, Adelaide Hills

The spiritual home of Australian natural wine. Elevated (450-600m), cool climate, long slow ripening. Complex soils of marl, sandy loam, and granitic schist. The "Natural Selection Theory" collective established here, with Gentle Folk, Lucy M, Jauma, and Manon farming biodynamically in close proximity.

🌾 Mudgee, NSW

Historic wine region on the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range. Botobolar Vineyard pioneered organic farming here in 1971. Warm days, cool nights, red loam soils over limestone. Traditionally known for robust reds, now producing elegant natural wines from dry-farmed vines.

🌊 Margaret River, WA

Renowned for premium Cabernet and Chardonnay, but also home to a quiet natural wine undercurrent. Si Vintners farms biodynamically in Rosa Glen, focusing on old vines (planted 1978) and sub-alpine influences. Maritime climate with gravelly soils.

🏔️ Whitlands, King Valley

High-altitude (sub-alpine) vineyard region in Victoria. Konpira Maru farms Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Gris here on red soils surrounded by eucalypt forest. Cool climate creates wines of tension and purity.

🌿 Yarra Valley

Cool climate region near Melbourne. Bobar Wines works with clay loam and volcanic soils to produce detailed, textural natural wines. Home to diverse aspects and elevations, allowing for elegant Pinot Noir and Syrah.

🔥 The Natural Wine Philosophy

Australian natural wine is defined by: organic/biodynamic farming, hand harvesting, wild yeast fermentation, no additions (acid, tannin, enzymes), no fining or filtration, and minimal or zero sulfur. The focus is on "living wines"—fresh, vibrant, and expressive of place.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Key Producers	Style Character
Adelaide Hills	Cool, elevated	Jauma, Gentle Folk, Lucy M, Manon	Bright, fresh, lower alcohol (10-12%), zero sulfur
Mudgee	Continental, warm	Botobolar Vineyard	Historic organic, preservative-free since 1984
Margaret River	Maritime, moderate	Si Vintners	Biodynamic, old vines, serious natural wine
Yarra Valley	Cool, wet	Bobar Wines, Ben Haines	Elegant, terroir-driven, minimal intervention
Victorian High Country	Sub-alpine, cool	Konpira Maru (Whitlands)	High-altitude Pinot, Chardonnay, experimental
Great Dividing Range	Varied, elevated	Konpira Maru, Aristotelis Ke Anthoula	Multi-regional sourcing, unique varieties

The Featured Producers

The pioneers and new wave defining Australian natural wine

The Pioneers

Kevin & Trina Karstrom

Botobolar Vineyard, Mudgee, NSW

Established in 1971 by Gil & Vincie Wahlquist, Botobolar was Australia's first certified organic vineyard and a pioneer in preservative-free winemaking since 1984. Purchased by Kevin and Trina Karstrom in 1994, the vineyard faced severe droughts (2015-2018) that killed much of the dry-farmed vines. They now partner with Windowrie Estate to continue their flagship Preservative Free Shiraz. Historic significance: they were making natural wine decades before the term existed, proving that organic, additive-free winemaking was possible in Australia's challenging climate.

Since 1971 First Organic Preservative-Free Historic

James Erskine

Jauma Wines, Lenswood, Adelaide Hills

One of Australia's most decorated sommeliers turned natural wine revolutionary. Topped the Court of Master Sommeliers exams (2008), won Gourmet Traveller Sommelier of the Year (2009), then pivoted to farming and winemaking. Founded Jauma in 2010, part of Natural Selection Theory. Now farms certified organic Jauma Farm in Lenswood, growing cherries, apples, and vines. Known for McLaren Vale Grenache expressions and zero-sulfur "living wines." Recently dropped prices from $60-80 to $38 to make serious natural wine accessible. Exports to 20 countries.

Since 2010 Zero Sulfur Master Sommelier Living Wines

Anton van Klopper

Lucy M. Wines (Lucy Margaux), Basket Range, Adelaide Hills

The uncompromising purist behind Lucy M. (formerly Lucy Margaux). Founded in 2007, Anton is a founding member of Natural Selection Theory. His definition of natural wine is absolute: organic/biodynamic grapes, native fermentation, no additives, no fining, no filtration, no sulfur—and no chemicals used even for cleaning the winery (only water and on-site distilled alcohol). Produces lower-alcohol wines (11.5-12%) by harvesting early. Known for poetic, artistic labels and wines with names like "Tête d'Oeuf" and "Sangiovese Stupefacente." A polarizing but pivotal figure in the movement.

Since 2007 Zero Everything Purist Artist

The Basket Range Collective

Gareth & Rainbo Belton

Gentle Folk, Basket Range, Adelaide Hills

Former marine biologists who traded lab coats for farming. Established Gentle Folk in Basket Range, farming 8 hectares across five sites biodynamically. Work with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. Known for "Vin de Sofa"—a whole-cluster Pinot Noir/Cabernet Franc blend with a splash of Gewürztraminer—and "Summertown Sauvignon Blanc." Their wines balance structure with playfulness, celebrated for being "highly drinkable" while maintaining serious viticultural integrity. Acknowledge Peramangk and Kaurna traditional owners of their land.

Marine Biologists Biodynamic Playful Basket Range

Tim Webber & Monique Milton

Manon Farm, Forest Range, Adelaide Hills

Moved to Manon Farm in 2016. Monique comes from New Zealand's pioneering biodynamic farming family; Tim is a chef who cooked at world-renowned restaurants. They farm 10 hectares at 600m elevation with views to the Indian Ocean, but only 4.5 hectares are vines—the rest is orchards, vegetables, and native forest. Biodynamic, dry-farmed, no chemicals. Make "raw, living, honest" wines from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Savagnin, Pinot Gris, and Cabernet Franc. Nothing is released until ready, allowing wines to develop layers of character. Also raise animals and grow food for complete farm ecosystem.

Since 2016 Biodynamic Chef & Farmer Holistic

Tom & Sally Belford

Bobar Wines, Yarra Glen, Yarra Valley

Founded in 2010, Bobar has defined natural wine in the Yarra Valley. Tom (Yarra Valley native) and Sally (from Brisbane) met at Charles Sturt University studying viticulture. Worked at De Bortoli during its renaissance, then traveled to Burgundy and Rhône. Farm 5 hectares organically, sourcing mainly from Nenagh Park vineyard. Known for Chardonnay, Syrah, and Pinot Noir made with whole bunches, no crushing, native yeast, and no sulfur. Also operate experimental label "Arfion." Small production (1,500 dozen), by appointment only, with a cult following in Tokyo, London, and New York.

Since 2010 Yarra Valley Whole Bunch Cult Following

The Innovators

Ben Haines

Ben Haines Wines, Yarra Valley

Boutique winemaker leading the charge in terroir-driven Yarra Valley wines. Focuses on single-vineyard expressions of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Shiraz from organic vineyards. Known for "Amber"—a skin-contact white with explosive crunchy fruit and savory spice—and low-alcohol whites under 12%. Wines are detailed, textural, and made with minimal intervention. Represents the "serious" side of natural wine—precise, age-worthy, and expressive of specific sites rather than funky or experimental.

Terroir-Driven Single Vineyard Organic Precise

Alastair Reed & Sam Cook

Konpira Maru, Whitlands (King Valley) & Multi-Regional

Started in 2014 when lecturer (Dr. Alastair Reed) and student (Sam Cook) met at Melbourne's NMIT. Named after a Japanese fishing boat from Ninja Warrior. Source grapes from Great Dividing Range regions: South Burnett and Granite Belt (Queensland), Kilmore (Victoria), and their own organic vineyard in Whitlands (sub-alpine, 600m). Known for experimental varieties like Garganega, Malvasia, Nosiola, and skin-contact whites in 500ml "hand grenade" bottles. Philosophy: "minimal intervention, maximum care"—natural yeast, no adjustments, unfined, unfiltered, minimal sulfur only when necessary.

Since 2014 Multi-Regional Experimental Fun

Tony Zafirakos & Mads Park-Neilson

Aristotelis Ke Anthoula (Akea Wine), Gundagai, NSW

Named after Tony's Greek parents, Akea produces natural wines on the Far South Coast of NSW. Focus on Mediterranean varieties and styles—Fiano, skin-contact whites, and light reds. "White-Ish" is a lightly macerated Fiano that challenges traditional white wine categories. The project reflects the natural wine traditions of the Mediterranean adapted to Australian terroir. Small production, artisanal approach, with labels that honor Tony's heritage.

Mediterranean Style Greek Heritage Skin Contact South Coast

The West & The Fringe

Iwo Jakimowicz & Sarah Morris

Si Vintners, Rosa Glen, Margaret River

Polish-born Iwo and New Zealander Sarah started Si Vintners in 2006 after meeting at Curtin University. Moved to their own vineyard in Rosa Glen in 2010—mature vines planted in 1978. Demeter-certified biodynamic, one of the few in Margaret River. Work with classic varieties (Chardonnay, Cabernet, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc) and some of the region's oldest Pinot Noir. Known for avant-garde styles like skin-contact Sauvignon Blanc dosed with Cabernet to make rosé, alongside straight varietal expressions. Also make "The Fizz" (pet-nat) and import Spanish Garnacha under "Chiquitin" label.

Since 2006 Demeter Certified Biodynamic Margaret River

Manon Farm

Forest Range, Adelaide Hills

Tim Webber and Monique Milton's project deserves double mention for its importance. At 600m elevation on ancient Cambrian soils (mica schists, ironstone quartz, red clay), they farm dry-grown vines planted in 1993. Varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Savagnin, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Garganega, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Biodynamic preparations, homemade tree pastes, seaweed and herb infusions. Wines like "Geoponika" (Savagnin/Chardonnay blend) show the potential of high-altitude Adelaide Hills. The farm is a living ecosystem—only 45% planted to vines, the rest orchards, vegetables, and native forest.

High Altitude Ancient Soils Dry-Farmed Ecosystem

"Making natural wines that are sound is an art and a skill but there is no better wine to drink!" — Anton van Klopper, Lucy M. Wines

The Grapes of Natural Australia

Grenache, Shiraz, Pinot Noir & the art of zero additions

Red Variety • The McLaren Vale Star

Grenache

The signature grape of Jauma and many natural wine producers. Thrives in McLaren Vale's warm climate but produces elegant, lower-alcohol styles when picked early. Australia's unsung hero—old bush vines provide concentration and complexity.

Style: Red berries, spice, silkiness when whole-bunch fermented
Natural Wine Role: Light, bright, glou-glou reds
Top Producers: Jauma (Ralph's Dry, Like Raindrops), Gentle Folk
Notable: Often blended with Mataro (Mourvèdre) and Shiraz
Alcohol: Often 11-12% in natural versions vs 14-15% conventional

Red Variety • The Basket Range King

Pinot Noir

The Adelaide Hills' calling card. Cool climate and high elevation create ideal conditions for elegant, high-toned Pinot. Natural producers favor whole bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, and early picking for freshness.

Style: Cherry, strawberry, herbal, earthy
Natural Wine Role: Light, chillable reds with whole bunch spice
Top Producers: Gentle Folk, Lucy M, Manon, Bobar
Notable: "Home Block" and "Vin de Sofa" expressions
Soil: Red clay, quartz, schist in Forest Range

White Variety • The Chameleon

Chardonnay

Australia's most planted white, but transformed by natural winemaking. Picked early for acidity, fermented wild, often with skin contact or in ceramic eggs. Ranges from "amber" styles to fresh, mineral expressions.

Style: Citrus, stone fruit, nuts (with skin contact)
Natural Wine Role: Textural, often cloudy, food-friendly
Top Producers: Bobar, Ben Haines, Si Vintners
Notable: "Egg Project" Hunter Semillon was seminal
Vessels: Ceramic eggs, old oak, concrete

The Experimental & Rare

Other important varieties in Australian natural wine

Savagnin: Increasingly planted in Adelaide Hills (Jauma, Manon). High acidity, nutty character when oxidized, fresh when protected.

Chenin Blanc: Jauma's specialty from McLaren Vale and Lenswood. Picked early for tension and acidity, often with skin contact.

Saperavi: Georgian variety gaining traction. Deep color, high acid, age-worthy. Produced by some experimental natural winemakers.

Garganega, Malvasia, Nosiola: Italian varieties championed by Konpira Maru. First releases of these varieties in Australia.

Sauvignon Blanc: Transformed by skin contact and wild fermentation. Si Vintners makes a skin-contact "rosé" by dosing with Cabernet.

Food Pairing & Australian Cuisine

Natural wine meets modern Australian food culture

Pairings for Light Reds (Pinot, Grenache)

Bright, low tannin, chillable

Grilled seafood: Whole fish, prawns, calamari
Vegetarian: Roast beetroot salad, mushroom dishes
Poultry: Roast chicken with herbs, duck breast
Charcuterie: Australian smallgoods, pâtés
Asian fusion: Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese
Local match: Kangaroo tartare, emu prosciutto

Pairings for Skin-Contact Whites

Textural, tannic, amber wines

Rich seafood: Lobster, crab, oily fish
Curries: Thai green curry, Indian vegetarian
Cheese: Soft cheeses, aged cheddar, washed rind
Roast pork: With crackling and apple sauce
Vegetarian: Cauliflower, pumpkin, root vegetables
Local match: Moreton Bay bugs, Tasmanian salmon

The Australian Natural Wine Bar Scene

Where to drink these wines

Australia's natural wine movement is inseparable from its food culture. In Sydney, Love Tilly Devine, Fix St James, and Poly champion local natural producers. Melbourne's Embla, Lesa, and Marion feature extensive natural lists. In Adelaide, LOC Bottle Bar and Udaberri focus on Basket Range producers. These venues serve wine from magnums, offer by-the-glass from interesting bottles, and pair natural wine with modern Australian cuisine that blends Asian, Mediterranean, and native Australian ingredients.

Visiting Natural Australia

From the cellar doors of Basket Range to the vineyards of Mudgee

🏔️ Basket Range, Adelaide Hills

The epicenter of Australian natural wine. Visit Gentle Folk (check website for open days), Lucy M (by appointment), and Manon (by appointment). Stay in Adelaide (30 minutes away) or rent a house in the hills. Combine with visits to Ashton Hills (Stephen George) and Ochota Barrels (if open). The area is stunning in autumn (April-May).

🌾 Mudgee, NSW

Visit Botobolar Vineyard to see Australia's organic pioneering history. Mudgee is 3.5 hours from Sydney or fly into Mudgee airport. Combine with visits to Lowe Family Wine Co (also organic) and the historic town of Mudgee. The region is known for excellent farm-to-table dining and alternative varieties.

🌊 Margaret River, WA

Visit Si Vintners in Rosa Glen (by appointment). Combine with the region's famous surf beaches, caves, and premium wineries like Cullen (biodynamic) and Vasse Felix. The natural wine scene here is quieter but significant—look for Blind Corner and Express Winemakers too.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Sydney: Arrive, dinner at Poly or Love Tilly Devine with natural wine from across Australia. Overnight in Sydney.

Day 2 - Mudgee: Drive or fly to Mudgee. Visit Botobolar Vineyard for historic organic perspective. Dinner at Pipeclay Pumphouse. Overnight in Mudgee.

Day 3 - Return to Sydney: Morning in Mudgee, return to Sydney. Evening at Fix St James for more natural wine exploration.

Day 4 - Adelaide: Fly to Adelaide. Drive to Basket Range (30 minutes). Visit Gentle Folk and Jauma (if open). Overnight in Adelaide Hills.

Day 5 - Basket Range: Visit Lucy M and Manon (appointments essential). Lunch at The Summertown Aristologist. Overnight in Adelaide Hills.

Day 6 - Yarra Valley: Fly to Melbourne, drive to Yarra Valley. Visit Bobar Wines (by appointment) and Ben Haines. Overnight in Yarra Valley.

Day 7 - Melbourne: Return to Melbourne. Visit Embla, Les, or Marion for final natural wine experiences. Departure.