Austria Natural Wine Guide: Alpine Purity & Pannonian Soul | Burgenland, Styria & the New Wave

Alpine Purity & Pannonian Soul

Austria

From the steep slate slopes of Styria to the limestone hills of Burgenland, discover how Austria's natural winemakers blend centuries of tradition with radical innovation—producing wines of crystalline purity, profound terroir expression, and uncompromising authenticity

Blaufränkisch Grüner Veltliner Biodynamic Zero Sulfur Leithaberg Styria

3,000 Years of Winemaking

46,000 Hectares

16 Wine Regions

100% Natural Wine Growth

The Land of Mountains & Lakes

Where Alpine precision meets Pannonian generosity

Austria's natural wine scene represents one of Europe's most dynamic and quality-focused movements. Unlike the anarchic punk energy of Australia or the ancient traditions of Georgia, Austrian natural wine emerges from a culture of meticulous viticulture, organic pioneers, and a deep respect for terroir. The movement gained momentum in the 1990s following the 1985 diethylene glycol scandal, which shocked the industry into embracing transparency, quality, and sustainable practices.

This guide focuses on the new generation of Austrian natural winemakers—producers who combine biodynamic farming with zero-addition winemaking. From Franz Strohmeier's revolutionary no-sulfur sparklings in Styria to Gut Oggau's iconic family of wines in Burgenland, from Christian Tschida's laissez-faire masterpieces to Markus Altenburger's crystalline Blaufränkisch expressions, these winemakers prove that natural wine can achieve the highest levels of elegance and precision.

What unites them is a commitment to biodynamic or organic farming, native yeast fermentation, minimal or zero sulfur, and an almost obsessive attention to detail. They work with Austria's exceptional indigenous varieties—Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, and St. Laurent—expressing diverse terroirs from the slate slopes of Sausal to the limestone hills of Leithaberg.

Key Facts

Location: Central Europe, landlocked
History: 3,000+ years (Celtic, Roman, Medieval)
Key Regions: Burgenland, Styria, Lower Austria
Main Grapes: Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Riesling
Method: Biodynamic, zero additions, long aging
Style: Pure, mineral, elegant, precise
Notable: 1985 scandal led to quality revolution

From Scandal to Renaissance

How Austria turned crisis into the world's most quality-focused wine culture

700 BCE

Celtic Beginnings

Celts and Illyrians cultivate native vines in Burgenland. Archaeological evidence in Zagersdorf confirms organized viticulture in the Hallstatt Culture period, making this one of Europe's oldest wine regions.

1st Century

Roman Systematization

Romans bring systematic viticulture to the region, establishing vineyards around Carnuntum, Lake Neusiedl, and Flavia Solva. The Danube becomes a vital trade route for wine.

1170

Vienna's Wine Boom

When the Babenbergs move their ducal seat to Vienna, viticulture in the capital explodes. Citizens can own vineyards, and wine taverns ("Heurigen") become central to Viennese culture.

1985

The Antifreeze Scandal

The diethylene glycol scandal rocks Austrian wine. Some producers added antifreeze to sweet wines to increase body. The scandal destroys Austria's wine reputation but becomes the catalyst for revolution. Strict new laws are enacted, and the industry pivots to quality, sustainability, and eventually natural wine.

1990s

The Organic Pioneers

Following the scandal, producers like Franz Weninger Sr. and the Heinrich family embrace organic and biodynamic viticulture. The movement toward natural winemaking begins, emphasizing terroir, low yields, and minimal intervention.

2007-Present

The Natural Wine Explosion

Gut Oggau (2007), Christian Tschida's full natural conversion (2015), and the rise of zero-sulfur wines from Strohmeier, Wachstum König, and others define the modern era. Austria becomes synonymous with elegant, precise natural wine that rivals conventional wines for cleanliness and longevity.

"A wine that reflects my attitude. Laissez-faire—as the French say: 'Leave everything to the game of natural forces. No strict order, no fixed rules, no dogmas.'" — Christian Tschida

Leithaberg, Sausal & Lake Neusiedl

The diverse terroirs shaping Austrian natural wine

⛰️ Leithaberg DAC

The limestone and slate hills west of Lake Neusiedl provide Burgenland's most prestigious terroir. Limestone (Leithakalk) from ancient coral reefs and slate soils create wines of exceptional minerality and aging potential. Home to Gut Oggau, Markus Altenburger, and Birgit Braunstein.

🌊 Lake Neusiedl

Central Europe's second-largest steppe lake creates a unique microclimate. The "Seewinkel" (lake corner) with its shallow waters and wetlands produces exceptional sweet wines from botrytized grapes. Sandy and gravel soils dominate, with heavy clay in the west.

🏔️ Sausal, Styria

Some of Europe's highest vineyards (up to 650m) on steep slate and primary rock slopes. The coolest site in South Styria, with dramatic diurnal temperature shifts. Perfect for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and biodynamic viticulture. Home to Wachstum König and Franz Strohmeier.

🗻 Kittenberg, Styria

Steep hills in the Sausal region where Herbert and Karl-Heinz König farm biodynamically. Orchards and vines interplanted on slopes that require manual cultivation. The family's grandfather Fritz was a pioneer who wrote books on soil and microclimates.

🌾 Wachau

The Danube River creates a dramatic landscape of steep terraced vineyards. While known for classic Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, it's also home to Franz Hofstätter's Wabi-Sabi project—bringing natural wine philosophy to this traditional region.

🍇 The Austrian Natural Philosophy

Austrian natural wine is defined by: biodynamic farming (Demeter or Respekt certification), native yeast fermentation, no additives (acid, tannin, enzymes), no fining, no filtration, and minimal or zero sulfur. The focus is on "serious" wines—elegant, precise, and age-worthy rather than funky.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Soil	Climate	Natural Wine Character
Leithaberg DAC	Limestone, slate	Continental, lake-influenced	Mineral, age-worthy, serious
Neusiedlersee	Sand, gravel, clay	Pannonian, humid	Powerful reds, sweet wines
Sausal (Styria)	Slate, primary rock	Alpine, cool	Elegant, high-acid, pure
Wachau	Gneiss, granite	Continental, river-influenced	Structured, mineral, precise
Mittelburgenland	Clay, loam	Continental	Spicy, dense Blaufränkisch
Eisenberg	Basalt, slate	Cool, Styrian-influenced	Mineral, elegant reds

The Featured Producers

The masters defining Austrian natural wine

Styria – The Alpine Purity

Franz Strohmeier

St. Stefan ob Stainz, West Styria

Since 1996, Franz has been challenging Styrian traditions in a region known for classic, pricey wines. A pioneer of zero-sulfur winemaking in Austria, he made his first sparkling wines without added sulfites in 2005. His "Trauben, Liebe & Zeit" (Grapes, Love & Time) wines are unique and complex, with exceptional flavors and long finishes. Known for Pinot Blanc-Chardonnay blends with skin contact, and sparkling wines that can be kept open for weeks, developing new flavors over time. Certified organic and biodynamic, his wines are now celebrated worldwide after years of being misunderstood by locals.

Since 1996 Zero Sulfur Pioneer Sparkling Specialist Biodynamic

Herbert & Karl-Heinz König

Wachstum König, Kitzeck-Sausal, Styria

Third-generation farmers continuing the work of their iconic grandfather Friedrich "Fritz" König—an orchard farmer, economics councilor, and author of books on soil and microclimates. Farm 5 hectares on the steep Kittenberg slopes biodynamically, with yields of only 2,000-3,000 kg/ha. Soils are not worked (just mowed once yearly) to preserve microbiotic activity. Wines age 2-3 years on lees in old oak and amphoras, bottled by gravity with no additives or sulfur. Also produce natural fruit juices from 100-year-old orchards. Their Sauvignon Blanc and blends represent the pinnacle of Sausal terroir—complex, precise, and profoundly mineral.

3rd Generation Biodynamic Amphora Aging Ultra-Low Yields

Franz Hofstätter

Wabi-Sabi, Wachau & Danube Regions

A 5-year-old project from Franz Hofstätter, who spent two decades working with renowned Austrian winemakers through his Tastes of Austria (TOA) company. Wabi-Sabi embraces the Japanese concept that beauty exists in imperfection. Two ranges: "White Labels" (collaborations with other growers, often multi-vintage blends) and "Black Labels" (estate-grown from vineyards he manages). All wines use native yeast, low sulfur (<30ppm), no other additives, unfiltered, unfined. The "Love and Passion White" blends Grüner Veltliner and Muskateller with 9-12 months aging. Represents a bridge between traditional Wachau and natural wine philosophy.

Since 2019 Japanese Philosophy Multi-Vintage Collaborative

Burgenland – The Pannonian Heart

Alex & Maria Koppitsch

Neusiedl am See, Burgenland

Family roots trace to 1523 when the first Koppitsch was recorded as winemaker and mayor of Neusiedl. Alex took over in 2011 after working with Gerhard Pittnauer, applying biodynamic principles learned there. Farm 6.3 hectares across five diverse sites (Seefeld, Neuberg, Prädium, Hutweide, Schafbühl) with soils ranging from sand to limestone to schist. Use their grandfather's old press and barrels—"if you take good care of your tools, you can use them forever." Spontaneous fermentation only, aging in old barrels of various sizes, no filtering, no fining, little to no SO2. Maria designs colorful labels conveying joy. Also produce "Cherry Pet Nat" with Alex's sister Andrea Strohmayer using cherries from 100-year-old trees in Leithaberg.

Since 2011 Family Legacy (Since 1523) Biodynamic Zero Sulfur

Christian Tschida

Illmitz, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland

Fourth-generation winemaker who took over 10 hectares at age 27. Known for his iconic leather jacket and "laissez-faire" philosophy—"leave everything to the game of natural forces, no strict order, no fixed rules, no dogmas." His father was an organic pioneer. Works with Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Franc on sandy gravel and limestone. Uses a unique vertical basket press for gentle extraction. Wines age up to 5 years in barrels without intervention, achieving "inner balance." Since 2015, all wines are zero sulfur. "Himmel auf Erden" (Heaven on Earth) and "Brutal!!!" are cult favorites. Graphic designer turned winemaker, his elegant labels match the wines' refined wildness.

4th Generation Zero Sulfur Laissez-Faire Cult Status

Claus Preisinger

Gols, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland

Surfer at heart, Claus has made wine on Lake Neusiedl's north shore since 2002. Converted to biodynamics in 2006, now Respekt Biodyn certified. Works with Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, St. Laurent, plus Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc from both sides of the lake. No cultured yeast, only slight or no sulfur dioxide. Innovative aging in amphoras rather than wood—"a conscious step back, allowing reduction to the essential elements: grape and soil." His "Pannobile" collaboration with neighboring Gols winemakers helped establish the region's reputation. Reduction, minimalism, and free spirit guide his work. Represents the bridge between Burgenland's red wine tradition and natural wine innovation.

Since 2002 Respekt Biodyn Amphora Pioneer Surfer Vibe

Eduard & Stephanie Tscheppe

Gut Oggau, Oggau, Leithaberg, Burgenland

The most iconic natural winery in Austria. Eduard (from Styrian winemaking family) and Stephanie (hospitality background) purchased a run-down 17th-century estate in 2007. The 20-year abandonment of vineyards meant no chemical residues—perfect for immediate biodynamic conversion (now Demeter certified). Noticed each wine had distinct "personality," so created the famous "family" labels—Atanasius, Theodora, Joschuari, Mechtild, etc.—with portraits by Jung von Matt. Three generations: children (light, energetic), parents (more body, power), grandparents (single vineyards, traditional). Farm 15 hectares on gravel (younger) and limestone/slate (older). Field blends of Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer. Spontaneous fermentation, old barrels, no additives, no sulfur. Wines are some of the most sought-after in natural wine.

Since 2007 Demeter Certified Iconic Labels Global Cult

Birgit Braunstein

Leithaberg DAC, Burgenland

Multi-generational biodynamic winery in the Leithaberg DAC, 40km southeast of Vienna. Focuses on the region's signature varieties: Blaufränkisch for reds, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc for whites. The Leithaberg's limestone and slate soils provide exceptional terroir for age-worthy, mineral wines. Birgit represents the new generation of Austrian women winemakers continuing family traditions while embracing biodynamics and natural winemaking. Her Ried Guttenberg Chardonnay shows the potential for white wines in this red-wine-dominated region—structured, mineral, and complex.

Multi-Generational Biodynamic Leithaberg DAC Women-Led

Markus Altenburger

Jois, Leithaberg DAC, Burgenland

Family in Burgenland for 500+ years, traditionally mixed farming. Markus converted 17 hectares (half estate, half long-term lease) to organic (since 2014) with biodynamic practices. Focuses on Blaufränkisch and Neuburger from limestone (Leithakalk) and mica schist soils. Two-thirds of vines are over 30 years old, some planted in 1969 by his grandfather. Spontaneous fermentation in open-top vats, gentle pressing with low juice yield, aging in large neutral Stockinger barrels. Maximum 15ppm sulfur. Labels use his own handprints "painted" with wine lees—Blaufränkisch for reds, skin-contact white for whites. Makes "OIS ERLEBEN" (Burgenland dialect for "experience it all")—a solera-style blend of multiple vintages and varieties. Childhood memory of tasting pure Neuburger grapes inspired his natural wine philosophy.

500+ Year Family Organic/Biodynamic Minimal Sulfur Artisan Labels

"Nature doesn't rush. It takes time to achieve results." — Franz Strohmeier

The Grapes of Natural Austria

Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner & the art of terroir expression

Red Variety • The King of Burgenland

Blaufränkisch

Austria's signature red grape, capable of world-class wines. Naturally high acidity, medium to high tannins, concentrated fruit, and excellent aging potential. Shows distinctive Chinese five-spice notes. Soil-sensitive: red fruit on limestone, black fruit on slate, blue fruit on schist.

Style: Spicy, mineral, elegant, age-worthy
Natural Wine Role: Zero-sulfur expressions show purity
Top Producers: Tschida, Altenburger, Gut Oggau, Preisinger
Soil: Limestone, slate, schist
Notable: Like Pinot Noir, needs proper site selection

White Variety • The Austrian Icon

Grüner Veltliner

Austria's most planted grape, but challenging in Burgenland's warmth. Best expressions come from cooler microclimates and limestone soils. Makes wines ranging from light and peppery to rich and textured.

Style: White pepper, citrus, stone fruit, herbal
Natural Wine Role: Skin-contact versions add texture
Top Producers: Claus Preisinger, Gut Oggau, Koppitsch
Regions: Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal (best)
Notable: Can age 10+ years in top examples

Red Variety • The Easy Joy

Zweigelt

Austria's most planted red, created in 1922 by Fritz Zweigelt. Versatile—makes light, glou-glou wines to serious, age-worthy examples. One of the few reds that works with botrytis for sweet wines.

Style: Purple fruit, soft tannins, crunchy acidity
Natural Wine Role: Fresh, chillable, joyful
Top Producers: Gut Oggau (Atanasius), Preisinger
Notable: Cross of Blaufränkisch x St. Laurent
Sweet: Rare botrytized red wines possible

The Supporting Cast

Other important varieties in Austrian natural wine

St. Laurent: Pinot Noir-like, low alcohol, often over-extracted in conventional winemaking. Natural producers let it show elegant, earthy qualities.

Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder): Long history with Cistercian monks. Similar to Chardonnay but less acidic. Ages exceptionally well on limestone.

Welschriesling: Not true Riesling, but makes exceptional sweet wines (Botrytis). Some natural producers make textured dry versions from old vines.

Neuburger: Markus Altenburger's specialty. Native variety with unique character, making structured, age-worthy whites.

Sauvignon Blanc: Thrives in Styria's Sausal region. Wachstum König produces benchmark natural expressions.

Food Pairing & Austrian Gastronomy

Natural wine meets Alpine-Mediterranean cuisine

Pairings for Blaufränkisch

Spicy, mineral, medium-bodied reds

Grilled meats: Pork, duck, venison
Charcuterie: Speck, sausages, terrines
Mushroom dishes: Porcini, chanterelles
Paprika-spiced foods: Hungarian goulash
Hard cheeses: aged Bergkäse, Emmental
Local match: Tafelspitz (boiled beef with horseradish)

Pairings for Grüner Veltliner

Peppery, herbal, high-acid whites

Asparagus: The classic Austrian pairing
Fried foods: Wiener Schnitzel
Smoked fish: Trout, char
Fresh cheeses: Topfen, young goat cheese
Herbal dishes: Dill, chervil, sorrel
Local match: Käsespätzle (cheese noodles)

The Heurigen Tradition

Austria's wine tavern culture

The Heurigen is a uniquely Viennese institution—wine taverns where producers serve their current vintage ("heuriger") with simple, cold dishes: breads with pumpkin seed spread (Kürbiskernöl), cold cuts, cheeses, and salads. This tradition of direct, unpretentious wine consumption aligns perfectly with natural wine philosophy. In Burgenland and Styria, the equivalent is the Buschenschank—seasonal wine taverns serving estate wines with local specialties. Natural Austrian wines, with their purity and food-friendly acidity, are perfectly suited to this rustic, convivial dining style.

Visiting Natural Austria

From the steep slopes of Sausal to the limestone hills of Leithaberg

🏔️ Sausal, Styria

Visit Franz Strohmeier and Wachstum König in the Kitzeck-Sausal region—some of Europe's highest vineyards. Stay at Das Weinkitz in Kitzeck im Sausal for spectacular views. Combine with hiking the Sausal wine trail and visiting Europe's highest wine museum. The region is known for Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and biodynamic pioneers.

🌊 Lake Neusiedl, Burgenland

Base yourself in Rust or Purbach. Visit Gut Oggau (appointment essential), Christian Tschida, and Claus Preisinger in Gols. Don't miss Taubenkobel—the region's top restaurant and hotel featuring Gut Oggau wines prominently. The lake creates a unique microclimate for both dry and sweet wines.

⛰️ Leithaberg & Jois

Visit Markus Altenburger in Jois and explore the Leithaberg DAC. The limestone and slate hills provide stunning hiking and exceptional wine. Combine with Birgit Braunstein and other Leithaberg producers. The views over Lake Neusiedl are spectacular, and the wines show the most mineral expression of Burgenland.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Vienna: Arrive, explore Heurigen culture in Grinzing or Nussdorf. Dinner at a natural wine-focused restaurant. Overnight in Vienna.

Day 2 - Wachau: Day trip to Wachau (1 hour). Visit Wabi-Sabi and explore the Danube terraces. Return to Vienna.

Day 3 - Styria: Drive to Kitzeck-Sausal (2.5 hours). Visit Franz Strohmeier and Wachstum König. Stay at Das Weinkitz. Overnight in Sausal.

Day 4 - South Styria: Explore the Sausal wine trail, visit Weingut Tement (biodynamic, border with Slovenia). Overnight in Sausal.

Day 5 - Burgenland: Drive to Rust (2 hours). Visit Gut Oggau and Christian Tschida. Stay at Taubenkobel. Overnight in Rust.

Day 6 - Gols & Jois: Visit Claus Preisinger in Gols and Markus Altenburger in Jois. Explore the Pannobile wine route. Overnight in Rust.

Day 7 - Return: Morning visit to Birgit Braunstein or other Leithaberg producers. Return to Vienna (1 hour) for departure.