The Granite Kingdom
Beaujolais
Where Gamay achieves its apotheosis on pink granite, and the "Gang of Four" sparked a natural wine revolution that changed the world
The Kingdom of Gamay
A region transformed—from "Nouveau" novelty to one of the world's most exciting terroir-driven wine destinations
Stretching 55 kilometers from the southern edge of the Mâconnais to the outskirts of Lyon, Beaujolais is France's most geologically distinctive wine region. Here, on hills of pink granite, blue diorite, and ancient schist, the Gamay grape achieves expressions of purity, perfume, and finesse impossible anywhere else on Earth.
For decades, Beaujolais was synonymous with Beaujolais Nouveau—the fruity, bubblegum-scented wine released each November to international fanfare. But beneath this commercial veneer, a revolution was brewing. In the 1980s, a group of producers led by Jules Chauvet and his disciples—Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet, known as the "Gang of Four"—rejected industrial farming and chemical manipulation. They returned to organic viticulture, indigenous yeasts, and minimal sulfur, creating wines of unprecedented transparency and terroir expression.
Today, Beaujolais is the epicenter of the natural wine movement, with over 150 certified organic producers and a new generation embracing regenerative farming. The 10 Crus—from the floral elegance of Fleurie to the structured power of Moulin-à-Vent—offer distinct granite-derived personalities that rival Burgundy's Côte d'Or in complexity, often at a fraction of the price.
Key Facts
- Location: Eastern France, between Mâconnais and Lyon
- Size: ~18,000 hectares
- Length: 55km north to south
- Main Grape: Gamay (98% of production)
- White Grape: Chardonnay (2%)
- Soil: Pink granite, schist, blue diorite
- Key Technique: Semi-carbonic maceration
From Banishment to Renaissance
How Gamay, outlawed by Dukes and dismissed by critics, became the darling of the natural wine world
The Gamay Ban
Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, issues an edict banning "disloyal Gamay" from the Côte d'Or, calling it a "very bad and disloyal plant." Gamay is ripped up in favor of Pinot Noir, but finds refuge in the granite hills of Beaujolais to the south.
Parisian Market Opens
Beaujolais wines begin arriving in Paris via the Rivers Saône and Seine. The light, fruity style becomes popular in Parisian bistros, establishing the region's commercial reputation.
AOC Established
The Beaujolais AOC is created, covering the entire region. The 10 Crus are gradually recognized between 1937 and 1988, with Régnié the last to achieve Cru status in 1988.
Beaujolais Nouveau Created
The official release date for Beaujolais Nouveau is established (third Thursday of November). The wine becomes a global phenomenon, but ultimately damages the region's reputation for serious wine.
Jules Chauvet's Revolution
Marcel Lapierre meets Jules Chauvet, a scientist and winegrower who advocates for natural winemaking. Chauvet's principles—organic farming, indigenous yeasts, minimal sulfur—inspire a generation to reject industrial methods.
The Gang of Four
Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet pioneer natural Beaujolais. Their wines demonstrate that Gamay can produce serious, age-worthy, terroir-driven wines. Kermit Lynch imports them to the US, creating cult followings.
The Natural Wine Explosion
Beaujolais becomes ground zero for the natural wine movement. Over 150 producers achieve organic certification. Young vignerons from across France flock to the region, attracted by affordable land and a culture of experimentation.
Premier Cru Campaign
Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, and Brouilly apply for Premier Cru status for their finest lieux-dits. If successful, this would be the first new classification in Beaujolais since 1988, recognizing the region's qualitative evolution.
Granite, Schist & Diorite
The ancient geology that gives Beaujolais its distinctive perfume and structure
🪨 Pink Granite
The signature soil of northern Beaujolais, particularly Fleurie and parts of Moulin-à-Vent. This poor, acidic, free-draining rock creates wines of perfume, elegance, and bright red fruit. The granite is often decomposed into sandy soils that stress vines and lower yields.
⛰️ Blue Diorite & Schist
Found in Juliénas and parts of Saint-Amour, these metamorphic rocks create more structured, powerful wines with firmer tannins. The blue stones retain heat and contribute to the density and aging potential of wines like Juliénas and Chénas.
🌋 Volcanic Origins
Mont Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly feature volcanic soils with hard, black rock. These ancient lava flows create intensely concentrated wines with mineral depth. The Côte de Brouilly's slopes feature vines planted on all exposures, creating diverse styles.
🌡️ Continental Climate
Warm summers and cold winters, with significant diurnal temperature variation. The region is warmer than the Côte d'Or but maintains freshness through elevation (up to 600m in Chiroubles). Climate change is pushing harvest earlier and increasing alcohol levels.
The 10 Crus: North to South
| Cru | Area | Soil | Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| Saint-Amour | 310 ha | Granite, clay, limestone, schist | Light, fresh, approachable; "Saint-Amour" for Valentine's Day |
| Juliénas | 540 ha | Schist, blue diorite, sandstone, clay | Robust, powerful, fleshy; ages well |
| Chénas | 220 ha | Granite (west), alluvial (east) | Rare, spicy, firm tannins; good aging potential |
| Moulin-à-Vent | 620 ha | Pink granite + manganese/iron | Full-bodied, structured, "King of Beaujolais" |
| Fleurie | 790 ha | Pink granite (90%) | Floral, silky, elegant; "Queen of Beaujolais" |
| Chiroubles | 280 ha | Granite, sand | Highest altitude (400m+), lightest, most aromatic |
| Morgon | 1,100 ha | Decomposed granite + schist (roche pourrie) | Dense, powerful, mineral, ages 10-20 years |
| Régnié | 380 ha | Granite, sand, clay | Newest Cru (1988), fruity, organic hub |
| Côte de Brouilly | 320 ha | Volcanic, hard black rock | Concentrated, mineral, steep slopes |
| Brouilly | 1,200 ha | Granite, clay, sand | Largest Cru, round, fruity, accessible |
The 10 Crus Explained
Each Cru offers a distinct expression of Gamay on granite
The Northern Crus
- Saint-Amour: The most northerly, bordering Mâconnais. Diverse soils create varied styles, generally light and fresh. Marketing goldmine for Valentine's Day.
- Juliénas: Named after Julius Caesar. Schist and blue diorite create powerful, structured wines with firm tannins. Excellent aging potential.
- Chénas: Smallest Cru (220 ha). Name derives from "chênes" (oak trees). Spicy, firm, often sold as Moulin-à-Vent. Rare but worth seeking.
- Moulin-à-Vent: The "King." Pink granite with manganese bands. Fullest body, responds to oak aging, can age 10+ years. Most "Burgundian" in style.
- Fleurie: The "Queen." 90% pink granite. Floral, silky, perfumed. Poncié, La Roilette, and La Madonne are top sites.
- Chiroubles: Highest altitude (400-600m). Lightest, most aromatic, ethereal. Shines in hot vintages when others overripen.
The Southern Crus
- Morgon: Second largest (1,100 ha). "Roche pourrie" (decomposed granite + schist) creates powerful, mineral, dense wines. Côte du Py is the Grand Cru site. Ages 10-20 years.
- Régnié: Newest Cru (1988). Organic farming hub. Fruity, approachable, great value. Jean-Paul Thévenet put it on the map.
- Côte de Brouilly: Slopes of extinct volcano Mont Brouilly. Hard black volcanic rock creates concentrated, mineral wines. All exposures create variety.
- Brouilly: Largest Cru (1,200 ha). Wraps around Mont Brouilly. Round, fruity, accessible. The "entry-level" Cru but capable of seriousness from top producers.
Beaujolais & Beaujolais-Villages
Below the Crus, the regional appellations offer exceptional value. Beaujolais (basic) covers the entire region, while Beaujolais-Villages comes from 38 specific communes with better terroir. These wines are often made with the same care as Crus by quality producers—organic farming, old vines, and traditional vinification. Look for "Vieilles Vignes" (old vines) and specific lieu-dit names for the best quality. Top producers like Domaine des Marrans, Paul Durdilly, and Michel Tête make Beaujolais-Villages that rival Crus in complexity.
Gamay & Chardonnay
The grapes of Beaujolais and their unique expressions
Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc
An ancient variety related to Pinot Noir, Gamay thrives on the acidic granite soils of Beaujolais. Unlike Pinot, it has colorless juice and black skin, requiring maceration for color extraction. The grape's natural high acidity and low tannins make it perfect for carbonic maceration.
- Plantings: ~17,640 hectares (98%)
- Aromas: Raspberry, cherry, violet, banana (carbonic), pepper
- Style: Light to medium-bodied, low tannin, high acid
- Best Soils: Granite, schist, volcanic rock
- Aging: 1-3 years (basic), 5-20 years (Crus)
Chardonnay
Planted in pockets of limestone and clay, particularly in the north near Saint-Amour and in the south. Beaujolais Blanc is rare but can offer exceptional value—fresh, mineral, and often aged in stainless steel or old barrels.
- Plantings: ~360 hectares (2%)
- Key Areas: Saint-Amour, southern Beaujolais
- Style: Fresh, citrus, mineral, unoaked
- Soil: Limestone, clay-limestone
- Note: Often blended into Beaujolais Blanc AOC
Semi-Carbonic Maceration
Beaujolais's distinctive winemaking method involves placing whole grape clusters in a sealed tank. The weight of the grapes crushes those at the bottom, releasing juice that ferments and produces CO2, creating an oxygen-free environment. This triggers intracellular fermentation within the uncrushed berries, extracting bright fruit flavors without harsh tannins. After 4-8 days, the free-run juice is drawn off and the remaining grapes are pressed. This technique is responsible for Beaujolais's signature aromas of banana, pear, and candied fruit. Serious producers often use longer macerations (10-30 days) and some de-stemming for structure, creating wines that can age for decades.
The Gang of Four & Beyond
The natural wine revolution that transformed Beaujolais and influenced the world
The Legends
The New Generation
Visiting Beaujolais
Granite hills, golden stones, and welcoming vignerons
🏛️ The Golden Stones
The villages of the southern Beaujolais (Pierres Dorées) are built from local golden limestone. Oingt is the most beautiful, with its medieval tower and panoramic views. The Château de Bagnols offers luxury accommodation in a restored fortress.
🍷 Wine Tourism
Unlike the Côte d'Or, many Beaujolais producers welcome drop-in visitors. The relaxed atmosphere makes exploration easy. The annual "Fête des Crus du Beaujolais" in November celebrates the new vintage. The Wine Museum in Romanèche-Thorins (Hameau du Vin) is worth a visit.
🍽️ Gastronomy
Beaujolais is gastronomic heaven. The region is famous for charcuterie, particularly saucisson de Lyon, and the Michelin-starred restaurants of Paul Bocuse in nearby Lyon. Classic pairings include coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, and the local cervelle de canut (fromage blanc with herbs).
3-Day Itinerary: From Fleurie to Morgon
Day 1 - Fleurie & Chiroubles: Start in Fleurie, the "Queen." Visit Domaine des Marrans or Château de Poncié. Lunch at Le Cep restaurant. Afternoon in Chiroubles for the views and ethereal wines. Overnight in Fleurie.
Day 2 - Morgon & Régnié: The heartland of natural wine. Visit Jean Foillard (appointment required) or Marcel Lapierre. Taste at Jean-Paul Thévenet in Régnié. Lunch in Villié-Morgon. Afternoon exploring the Côte du Py vineyards. Overnight in Morgon.
Day 3 - Moulin-à-Vent & The South: Visit Château des Jacques (Louis Jadot's Beaujolais estate) for a contrasting "Burgundian" approach. Continue to the Pierres Dorées villages for golden stone architecture. Farewell dinner in Lyon, the gastronomic capital.