Wine from the Shadow of the Brecon Beacons
Black Mountain Wines is a small, family-run organic vineyard in the wilds of Herefordshire — a labour of love founded by Mark and Laura Smith that has evolved into one of England's most authentic and expressive low-intervention wineries. [^19^] [^24^] Planted on a beautiful south-facing slope in Turnastone, their three-hectare vineyard sits on clay loam over old red sandstone bedrock, in the shadow of the Brecon Beacons National Park. [^18^] [^19^] Hand-planted between 2009 and 2010 with classic varieties, and later expanded with hardier hybrids, the vineyard has been certified organic since 2018 and practices Korean Natural Farming to create living soil with minimal environmental impact. [^18^] [^19^] The winery itself, built in 2013, is a rustic, off-grid space where all tasks — from riddling to disgorging — are undertaken by hand, resulting in a tiny but highly sought-after collection of sparkling and still wines. [^19^]
From an Inherited Field to a Living Vineyard
The story of Black Mountain began in 2009, not with a grand plan, but with an unexpected gift. The mother of a friend inherited a field in the wilds of Herefordshire and asked Mark and Laura Smith if they were interested in planting vines. [^24^] They didn't know what to expect, but on arrival they were delighted to find an 8-acre south-facing slope — the perfect foundation for a vineyard. The rest, as they say, is history.
Mark, who studied Viticulture and Oenology at Plumpton College, brought technical expertise to the project. Laura brought equal passion and commitment. Together, they hand-planted the vineyard between 2009 and 2010 with classic English sparkling varieties: Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. [^18^] [^19^] These were the grapes that had made English sparkling wine a global success story, and Mark and Laura wanted to be part of that tradition.
However, they soon realised that the local climate of Herefordshire — cooler and more challenging than the southern counties of Kent and Sussex — was better suited to hardier hybrid grape varieties. [^19^] This realisation led to an evolution in their plantings. In 2020, they added hybrid varieties including Phoenix, Solaris, and Cabernet Cortis — grapes bred for resilience in cool, marginal climates. [^18^] This combination of classic and hybrid varieties gives Black Mountain a unique palette: the elegance of Champagne grapes alongside the rugged character of grapes designed for English weather.
The vineyard has always been in constant evolution. Mark and Laura are always looking for new varieties and methods to improve their soil and their wines. [^24^] This restless curiosity, combined with a deep respect for the land, defines the Black Mountain philosophy. They are not following a blueprint; they are writing their own.
"The vineyard has always been in constant evolution since its beginning, we are always looking for new varieties and methods to improve our soil and our wines."
— Mark & Laura Smith, Black Mountain Wines
Certified Organic, Korean Natural Farming & Living Soil
A core tenet of Black Mountain is its commitment to ecological stewardship. The vineyard started organic conversion in 2018 through the Soil Association and is now fully certified organic. [^18^] [^19^] But Mark and Laura have gone further than standard organic certification. They use Korean Natural Farming methods to create a living soil that can support their vines and have minimal impact on their own environment and the wider ecosystem. [^18^]
Korean Natural Farming (KNF) is a holistic approach to agriculture that emphasises indigenous microorganisms, fermented plant extracts, and natural inputs to build soil fertility without synthetic chemicals. [^18^] It is labour-intensive and requires deep observation, but the results are profound: a vineyard ecosystem that is self-sustaining, biodiverse, and resilient. The Smiths have been experimenting with natural alternatives to traditional sprays, such as essential oils and whey, finding ways to protect their vines without disrupting the delicate balance of the soil. [^19^]
The vineyard site itself is extraordinary. Planted on a south-facing slope in Turnastone, the vines sit on clay loam over old red sandstone bedrock. [^18^] This combination provides excellent drainage, mineral richness, and the thermal mass that helps moderate temperature swings. The south-facing aspect ensures maximum sun exposure in England's cool climate, while the surrounding hills and valleys create microclimates that protect the vines from the harshest winds.
The Smiths' dedication to healthy soil and a vibrant ecosystem allows the character of the grapes to truly express the unique terroir of the site. [^19^] Every decision — from the choice of cover crops between vine rows to the timing of harvest — is made with the goal of allowing the land to speak through the wine. The result is not a polished, homogenised product but an authentic, expressive wine that carries the fingerprint of Herefordshire in every glass.
Full organic certification through the Soil Association since 2018. No synthetic chemicals, no shortcuts — just healthy soil and healthy vines. [^18^] [^19^]
Using indigenous microorganisms, fermented plant extracts, and natural inputs to build living soil. A holistic approach that goes beyond standard organic practice. [^18^]
3 hectares on a beautiful south-facing slope in Turnastone. Clay loam over old red sandstone bedrock — excellent drainage, mineral richness, and thermal mass. [^18^]
Experimenting with essential oils and whey as natural alternatives to traditional vineyard sprays. Protecting vines without disrupting soil balance. [^19^]
Rustic, Off-Grid & Entirely by Hand
The winery at Black Mountain, built in 2013, is a rustic, off-grid space where the wines are handled gently and given the time they need to develop. [^19^] There is no industrial automation here, no temperature-controlled tanks the size of swimming pools, no conveyor belts. Instead, there is a small, intimate cellar where Mark and Laura work with their hands, their senses, and their patience.
Production is tiny. All tasks — from pressing and fermentation to riddling and disgorging — are undertaken by hand. [^19^] This is not a romantic affectation but a practical choice that preserves the integrity of the wine. Hand-riddling sparkling wine, for example, is a slow, methodical process of turning bottles gradually to collect sediment in the neck before disgorgement. It takes weeks, sometimes months, but it produces a finer, more delicate bubble structure than mechanical alternatives.
The Smiths work with both classic and hybrid grapes, giving them a broad creative canvas. The classic varieties — Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir — provide the structure, elegance, and ageing potential that English sparkling wine drinkers expect. [^18^] The hybrids — Phoenix, Solaris, and Cabernet Cortis — bring resilience, unique aromatics, and the ability to ripen reliably in a marginal climate. [^18^] By blending or separating these varieties, Mark and Laura create wines that are either faithful to tradition or boldly experimental.
The winemaking is low-intervention: native fermentation where possible, minimal sulphur, no fining or filtration unless absolutely necessary. [^19^] The off-grid winery means there is a natural limit to technological intervention — and the Smiths see this as an advantage. The wines are allowed to ferment at their own pace, to develop their own character, and to be bottled only when they are truly ready. The result is a range of wines that are alive, evolving, and unmistakably of Herefordshire.
"Shouting at Weather!" — The Black Mountain Spirit
Black Mountain's playful, hand-painted label art — including the "Shouting at Weather!" series — captures the winery's irreverent, resilient spirit. [^24^]
Making wine on the edge of the Brecon Beacons means contending with everything the Welsh-English border can throw at you: sudden rain, late frosts, capricious sunshine, and the ever-present threat of a washout harvest. Mark and Laura's response is not despair but defiance — a refusal to let the weather dictate the quality of their wine.
Their Col Fondo — a cloudy, unfiltered sparkling wine made in the ancestral method — is perhaps the purest expression of this philosophy. Bottled with its lees, it is a living wine that continues to evolve in the bottle, gaining texture, complexity, and a savoury depth that conventional sparkling wines cannot match. It is a wine for those who embrace imperfection, who find beauty in the unpredictable, and who understand that the best wines are made by nature, with the winemaker as a humble guide. ~£18–£26 / ~$22–$32.
The Black Mountain Range
Black Mountain Wines produces a tiny, highly sought-after collection of sparkling and still wines from their 3-hectare organic vineyard in Herefordshire. All wines are handcrafted in their rustic, off-grid winery, with tasks like riddling and disgorging undertaken entirely by hand. [^19^] The portfolio blends classic English sparkling varieties with hardier hybrids, creating wines that are both rooted in tradition and boldly individual. Prices are approximate and in GBP/USD.