Bordeaux Natural Wine Guide: The New Revolution | Sans Soufre, Biodynamic & the Soul of the Left Bank

The Natural Revolution

Bordeaux

From the classified growths of Pauillac to the sans soufre pioneers of Entre-Deux-Mers, discover the new generation of Bordeaux winemakers challenging tradition with biodynamic viticulture, zero-zero winemaking, and the pure expression of terroir

Sans Soufre Biodynamic Natural Wine Merlot Cabernet Franc

120,000 Hectares

65 Appellations

18% Organic/Bio

2000+ Years History

Tradition Meets Revolution

The world's most famous wine region is undergoing a quiet transformation

Bordeaux is synonymous with wine history—the 1855 Classification, the châteaux of the Médoc, the limestone plateau of Saint-Émilion. For centuries, this region has defined fine wine for the world. But beneath the surface of grand cru classé estates and traditional methods, a revolution is brewing. A new generation of winemakers is challenging the Bordeaux status quo with natural winemaking, biodynamic farming, and sans soufre (sulfite-free) wines that express terroir with unprecedented purity.

The natural wine movement in Bordeaux is still small—less than 0.0024% of vineyards produce natural wine—but it is growing rapidly. From the urban winery of Les Chais du Port de la Lune in a converted WWII bunker to the regenerative farm of Château Shuette on the Dordogne, these producers are reimagining what Bordeaux can be. They work with spontaneous fermentation, native yeasts, no filtration, and zero added sulfur, creating wines that are alive, expressive, and unbound by AOC rules.

This guide focuses on the pioneers: Château Lestignac in Bergerac with their biodynamic polyculture, Domaine Sadon Huguet crafting "Expression Calcaire" from rented limestone parcels, Château Magdeleine Bouhou with their sulfite-free "Sans Soufre" range, and Château Lamery making "vins autrefois" (wines from the past). These are the producers proving that Bordeaux can be both traditional and revolutionary—elegant and wild—structured and natural.

Key Facts

Location: Southwest France, Gironde estuary
Size: 120,000+ hectares
Main Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Climate: Maritime, mild winters, warm summers
Soils: Gravel (Left Bank), Clay-limestone (Right Bank)
Key Movement: Natural wine, biodynamic, sans soufre
Notable: Only 78 biodynamic estates out of 5,600

From Roman Vines to Natural Revolution

2000 years of evolution in Bordeaux

1st Century AD

Roman Foundations

Roman colonists plant the first vineyards around Burdigala (modern Bordeaux). The region's strategic position on the Garonne river makes it a natural trading hub for wine.

1152

The Marriage of Eleanor

Eleanor of Aquitaine marries Henry Plantagenet, future King of England, opening Bordeaux wines to the English market. The "claret" tradition begins.

1855

The Classification

Napoleon III requests a classification of Bordeaux's best wines for the Exposition Universelle. The 1855 Classification cements Bordeaux's reputation for hierarchy and quality.

1956

The Great Frost

A devastating frost destroys much of Bordeaux's vineyard, leading to replanting with Merlot, which is more frost-resistant than Cabernet Sauvignon.

2004

Pontet-Canet Goes Biodynamic

Château Pontet-Canet becomes the first classified growth to convert to biodynamic farming, signaling a shift toward sustainability among elite estates.

2010s-Present

The Natural Wine Movement

A new generation of producers—Sadon Huguet, Château Shuette, Les Chais du Port de la Lune—embraces natural winemaking, sans soufre cuvées, and Vin de France labeling to escape AOC constraints.

"Bordeaux's 1855 classification became self-perpetuating—a system much like New York's finance world, where early advantages compounded into structural dominance. Sidestepping all of it, natural winemakers choose Vin de France to stay free to express their own vision of terroir." — Mathieu Huguet, Domaine Sadon Huguet

Gravel, Clay & Limestone

The diverse terroirs that define Bordeaux

🪨 Left Bank Gravel

The Médoc and Graves are defined by deep gravel beds deposited by the Garonne river. These well-draining soils stress the vines, producing Cabernet Sauvignon of structure and longevity. The best sites form gentle rises called "croupes."

🏔️ Right Bank Clay-Limestone

Saint-Émilion and Pomerol sit on a limestone plateau with clay and sand. Merlot thrives here, producing wines of richness and accessibility. The "molasse du Fronsadais" is a unique blue clay found in Pomerol.

🌊 The Estuary Effect

The Gironde estuary moderates temperature, preventing frost and extending the growing season. Proximity to water is crucial—vineyards on the "rive droite" (right bank) benefit from thermal regulation across the water.

🌿 Atlantic Influence

The maritime climate brings mild winters and warm summers, but also humidity and disease pressure. This makes organic and biodynamic farming challenging—requiring constant vigilance and natural treatments.

⛰️ Entre-Deux-Mers

Between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, this region is traditionally known for white wines, but is becoming a hotbed for natural wine experimentation. Limestone and clay soils support diverse plantings.

🍇 The Blend Tradition

Bordeaux is defined by blending—Merlot for body, Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, Cabernet Franc for perfume, Malbec for color, Petit Verdot for tannin. Natural winemakers often challenge this with single-varietal cuvées.

Key Appellations

Appellation	Location	Soil	Character
Pauillac	Left Bank	Deep gravel	Powerful, structured, long-lived Cabernet
Margaux	Left Bank	Gravel over limestone	Elegant, perfumed, refined
Saint-Émilion	Right Bank	Limestone plateau	Rich, Merlot-dominant, accessible
Pomerol	Right Bank	Clay, gravel, sand	Opulent, rare, expensive Merlot
Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux	Right Bank	Clay-limestone	Value, approachable, improving quality
Entre-Deux-Mers	Between rivers	Clay, limestone	Traditionally white, now experimental reds
Lalande-de-Pomerol	Right Bank	Sand, gravel, clay	Pomerol-like quality, better value

The Sans Soufre Pioneers

Natural winemakers reshaping Bordeaux's future

The New Generation

Château Lestignac

Bergerac, Sigoulès

Camille & Mathias Marquet oversee this 13-hectare estate in Bergerac, just east of Bordeaux. Since 2008, they've transformed the property into a genuine polyculture with 200+ fruit trees, 80 chickens, and 20 sheep. Biodynamic since 2011, they use horses instead of machinery and cultivate goblet-pruned vines (rare in Bordeaux) for natural acidity. Their "Hors Les Murs" négoce project explores beyond estate fruit, while wines like "La Comète" (white blend aged in clay jars) showcase their commitment to zero-intervention winemaking with minimal sulfur.

Biodynamic Polyculture Horse Ploughing

Les Chais du Port de la Lune

Bordeaux City (Urban Winery)

Laurent Bordes operates from a converted WWII bunker in Bordeaux—the first urban winery in the city to vinify, press, and mature wines on-site. Sourcing from 10 regions across France (all organic/biodynamic), this "micro-négoce" focuses on out-of-the-ordinary blends with minimal intervention. Working with native yeasts, no fining, no filtration, and always less than 30ppm SO2, Bordes creates "craveable" wines that challenge Bordeaux conservatism. The name references Bordeaux's nickname, "Port of the Moon," while the bunker location symbolizes the project's underground, revolutionary spirit.

Urban Winery WWII Bunker Multi-Regional

Domaine Sadon Huguet

Saint-Émilion & Blaye

Bénédicte Laborde and Mathieu Huguet launched their project in 2019 out of frustration with Bordeaux's focus on architecture over grape quality. They farm 2 hectares in Bordeaux and 2.1 in the Basque Country, renting parcels on limestone mother rock at 100+ meters elevation—higher than typical for the region. Their "Expression Calcaire" blends grapes from Saint-Émilion and Blaye (unusual in Bordeaux). They avoid plowing to protect soil life, braid shoots instead of cutting them, and use herbal teas (yarrow, valerian, horsetail) for vine resilience. All wines are Vin de France, allowing complete freedom from AOC constraints.

Sans Soufre Limestone Terroir Vin de France

Right Bank Innovators

Domaine L'Île Rouge

Lugasson, Entre-Deux-Mers

Antonin Jamois established this 2-hectare domaine on shallow clay-limestone soils over starfish rock ("astéries"). The name honors Madagascar, reflecting Jamois's commitment to biodiversity and ecosystem thinking. Certified organic and biodynamic, the vineyard is isolated between meadows and forest, creating a unique microclimate. The wines—like "L'Oublié" (Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc/Merlot blend) and "Confluence"—are characterized by their licorice, vegetal, and menthol notes with fresh acidity. The approach is described as "serene and intelligent," shaking up Bordeaux codes while respecting tradition.

Biodynamic Starfish Rock Biodiversity

Château Shuette

Saint-Loubès, Entre-Deux-Mers

Ian Hocking and Shu Min Ho operate this 12-hectare regenerative farm on the Dordogne, just 25 minutes from Bordeaux. Since taking full production in 2022, they've championed "zero-zero" winemaking—no added SO2, no filtration, spontaneous fermentation. The property includes 250+ fruit trees, 280+ wildlife boxes, and free-roaming ducks, geese, and chickens. They produce pét-nat, orange wine, dark rosé, semi-carbonic reds, and traditional clarets from 8 varieties including rare Cabernet Noir. Their "Sanguis" light red represents "the original style of Bordeaux wine, but so fresh and modern." Less than 0.0024% of Bordeaux vineyards produce natural wine—Shuette leads the charge.

Zero-Zero Regenerative Orange Wine

Château Magdeleine Bouhou

Cars, Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux

Andrew Eakin took over this estate in 2021, continuing organic conversion begun in 2019 (certified 2022). Located on the Gironde estuary opposite Pauillac, the property features outcropping limestone and clay-limestone soils. The "Sans Soufre" range includes Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc cuvées—explicitly labeled "sans soufre ajouté." They've also planted atypical white varieties (Chardonnay, Roussanne) and installed a micro-distillery for whiskey and gin. The "L'Abri" cuvée represents their terroir's best expression, while experimental cuvées include amphora-aged wines and Blanc de Noir. The estate offers wine tourism accommodation in a renovated holiday cottage.

Sans Soufre Range Organic Certified Micro-Distillery

Traditionalist Naturalists

Château Lamery (Jacques Broustet)

Saint-Pierre-d'Aurillac, Entre-Deux-Mers

Jacques Broustet is one of Bordeaux's few true natural winemakers, crafting "vins autrefois" (wines from the past) since 2006. After varied careers, he returned to his family's 1935-acquired property, abandoned all chemicals, and converted to biodynamics. His "Autrement" cuvée—meaning "in another way"—is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc that changes yearly. Everything is hand-harvested, destemmed, and fermented in cement with indigenous yeasts. No temperature control, no racking, no mixing, no topping up during élevage. The wines are bottled with zero additions, unfiltered, representing "Bordeaux when it was elegant"—rustic yet graceful, with beautiful tension.

Zero Additions Biodynamic Traditionalist

Vignobles Siozard

Lugaignac, Entre-Deux-Mers

Twin brothers Laurent and David Siozard represent the 6th generation at this 50-hectare family estate. Certified Terra Vitis and HVE Level 3, with organic conversion beginning in 2019. Their IPSUM collection—Latin for "itself"—features mono-varietal expressions including the standout "Merlot Sans Soufre." This cuvée is explicitly labeled "sans soufre ajouté," made from 0.5 hectares of clay-limestone soils, with 6,000 bottles produced annually. The wine undergoes 5 days maceration and 10 days fermentation at 20°C without any sulfur addition. Round, supple, with fresh red fruit and silky tannins, it's designed as a "vin de soif" (thirst wine) to be consumed slightly chilled.

IPSUM Collection Mono-varietal 6th Generation

Vignobles Bedrenne

Lalande-de-Pomerol

Now run by Monique Bedrenne and son Rémi, this 5th-generation estate spans 13 hectares across Lalande-de-Pomerol, Montagne Saint-Émilion, and Bordeaux Supérieur. Their "Cuvée Halictus"—named after the black bee populating their hives—contains no sulfites added during vinification or aging. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc on a 1-hectare plot, it represents their commitment to environmental stewardship: HVE certification, hedge planting, and beehive installation. The wine shows intense fruity expression with ample mouthfeel and elegant tannins. The label features artwork by Parisian cartoonist Helkarava, reflecting the cuvée's playful, natural spirit.

Halictus Cuvée Bee Conservation HVE Certified

Saint-Émilion & Lalande-de-Pomerol

Vignobles Bardet

Saint-Émilion

This family estate, dating to 1704, produces the "Château Franc le Maine Sans Soufre" cuvée—a 100% Merlot from 44-year-old vines on sandy and clay-gravel soils. Made with "bio-regulation," indigenous yeasts and bacteria handle fermentation and malolactic conversion without added sulfur. The wine ages 6 months in stainless steel to preserve freshness. Deep ruby color with black fruit, fine herbs, and chocolate notes. It's juicy, balanced, and represents a significant commitment from an established Saint-Émilion house to natural winemaking. The estate observes and counts indigenous yeasts to precisely guide fermentation without intervention.

Since 1704 Bio-regulation 100% Merlot

Château Le Noble

Saint-Germain-du-Puch, Entre-Deux-Mers

Located midway between Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion on the left bank of the Dordogne, this 30-hectare property (11 hectares vines) has been organic since 2013. Thomas Bonnefon, who trained at Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux, oversees vineyards with an average age of 35 years on clay-limestone soils with gravel outcrops. The estate produces Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle. While not exclusively sans soufre, they practice "agriculture bio" with light plowing, natural enrichment through plant burial, and no systemic treatments. The "Cuvée Héritage" represents their commitment to terroir expression through sustainable practices.

Organic Since 2013 Clay-Limestone Family Estate

Marius Bielle (Château Le Noble)

Lalande-de-Pomerol

Founded in 1954 by Marius Bielle and now run by grandson Damien (oenologist and agricultural engineer), this 13.3-hectare estate sits on gravelly-sandy soils. Certified organic and biodynamic (Biodyvin), with 37-year-old average vine age. Damien grew up "under the red neon lights of Pigalle" before returning to the family estate. The "MARIUS" cuvée is 100% Merlot aged in concrete tanks, while "BRUT(ES)" reveals Merlot's fruit brilliance. Experimental cuvées include "BAZOOKA" (orange Sauvignon Blanc), "COYOTE" (blouge—Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot blend), and "PIGALLE" (Malbec infusion). No oenological inputs, no temperature control, no filtration.

Biodyvin 3rd Generation Experimental

"We work like fair trade. We buy the grapes at a high price so that the winegrowers continue to improve the quality and the wine is better… Our values are to create a collaboration and a collective. We want to dust off the world of wine." — Laurent Bordes, Les Chais du Port de la Lune

The Grapes of Natural Bordeaux

Classic varieties, radical expressions

Red Variety • The Right Bank King

Merlot

The dominant grape of natural Bordeaux, prized for its early ripening and plush texture. In sans soufre winemaking, Merlot's natural richness helps compensate for the lack of sulfur protection, creating wines of surprising purity.

Plantings: ~65% of Bordeaux vineyard
Style: Plum, blackberry, chocolate, soft tannins
Natural Wine Role: Provides body without heavy extraction
Top Sans Soufre: Siozard IPSUM, Bardet Franc le Maine
Notable: Thrives on clay-limestone soils

Red Variety • The Structure Provider

Cabernet Franc

Increasingly popular in natural Bordeaux for its aromatic complexity and ability to ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. Provides peppery spice and herbal notes without excessive tannin.

Plantings: ~10% of Bordeaux vineyard
Style: Raspberry, bell pepper, graphite, violets
Natural Wine Role: Adds perfume and freshness
Top Sans Soufre: Bedrenne Halictus, Magdeleine Bouhou
Notable: Parent of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

Red Variety • The Challenger

Malbec (Côt)

Once a major Bordeaux variety, now rare but experiencing revival in natural wine circles. Provides deep color and spicy richness. Château Magdeleine Bouhou's sans soufre Malbec is a standout example.

Plantings: <2% of Bordeaux vineyard
Style: Black cherry, spice, damson, inky color
Natural Wine Role: Adds color and intensity without sulfur
Top Sans Soufre: Magdeleine Bouhou, Lamery Autrement
Notable: More tannic than Merlot, requires careful handling

Natural Winemaking Techniques

How sans soufre producers work

Spontaneous Fermentation: Using only native yeasts present on grape skins and in the winery. Requires immaculate cellar hygiene and careful temperature management.

Carbonic Maceration: Whole-grape fermentation creating fresh, fruity wines without harsh tannins. Used by Château Shuette for their semi-carbonic reds.

Aging in Clay/Concrete: Neutral vessels that don't impart oak flavors, preserving fruit purity. Domaine Sadon Huguet and Marius Bielle favor concrete eggs and tanks.

No Filtration: Allowing wines to clarify naturally through gravity and time, preserving texture and microbial complexity. All producers featured use this approach.

Food Pairing & Gastronomy

Natural Bordeaux demands authentic, rustic cuisine

Pairings for Sans Soufre Reds

Fresh, vibrant, lower tannin

Charcuterie: Jambon de Bayonne, saucisson sec, rillettes
Grilled Lamb: With herbs de Provence and garlic
Ratatouille: The classic Provençal vegetable stew
Mushroom Dishes: Wild mushrooms, truffle omelette
Soft Cheeses: Brie de Meaux, Camembert de Normandie
Cassoulet: White bean and duck confit stew

Pairings for Orange & Pét-Nat

Experimental natural styles

Spicy Asian: Thai curries, Vietnamese pho
Mezze: Hummus, baba ganoush, falafel
Raw Seafood: Oysters, ceviche, tartare
Hard Cheeses: Comté, aged Manchego
Roasted Vegetables: With honey and rosemary
Tapas: Patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo

Bordeaux Gastronomy

The local cuisine that shaped these wines

Bordeaux is France's culinary capital, home to the world's best oysters from Arcachon Bay, the finest beef from Bazas, and the richest duck from the Landes. Traditional entrecôte à la bordelaise (steak with bone marrow and shallot sauce) pairs perfectly with the region's structured reds. Lamprey à la bordelaise—cooked in red wine with leeks and garlic—is a local delicacy. For natural wines, simpler preparations work best: côtes d'agneau (lamb chops) grilled over vine cuttings, or pain de campagne with salted butter and radishes.

Visiting Natural Bordeaux

From urban cellars to regenerative farms

🏙️ Bordeaux City

Start at Les Chais du Port de la Lune in their WWII bunker winery—an essential urban wine experience. Explore the Chartrons district, visit the Cité du Vin wine museum, and dine at casual wine bars like Le Wine Bar or Vins et Voisins that feature natural wine lists. The Marché des Capucins offers local produce for picnic supplies.

🌿 Entre-Deux-Mers

Visit Château Shuette for a regenerative farm tour (book ahead) with their ducks, geese, and natural vineyard. Stop by Château Lamery to meet Jacques Broustet and taste his "vins autrefois." The region is dotted with medieval bastide towns like Sauveterre-de-Guyenne for lunch breaks.

🏰 Right Bank

Explore Lalande-de-Pomerol with visits to Marius Bielle (try the experimental "BAZOOKA" orange wine) and Vignobles Bedrenne to see their bee conservation efforts. In Blaye, visit Château Magdeleine Bouhou for their sans soufre range and micro-distillery. The Blaye citadel offers stunning Gironde views.

5-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Bordeaux City: Arrive and visit Les Chais du Port de la Lune. Dinner at a natural wine bistro in the Chartrons district.

Day 2 - Entre-Deux-Mers: Morning at Château Shuette (tour and tasting). Lunch in Saint-Loubès. Afternoon with Jacques Broustet at Château Lamery. Overnight in Bordeaux.

Day 3 - Bergerac: Drive to Château Lestignac to meet Camille & Mathias Marquet. Tour their polyculture farm and taste biodynamic wines. Overnight in Bergerac.

Day 4 - Right Bank: Visit Domaine L'Île Rouge in Lugasson. Lunch in Libourne. Afternoon at Marius Bielle in Lalande-de-Pomerol. Overnight in Saint-Émilion.

Day 5 - Blaye: Morning at Château Magdeleine Bouhou for sans soufre tasting and distillery tour. Explore the Blaye citadel. Return to Bordeaux or continue to the Médoc.