Broc Cellars

Broc Cellars, a pioneering urban winery in Berkeley, California, is the brainchild of founder and winemaker Chris Brockway. Established in 2002, the winery was born out of a desire to create a different kind of California wine—one that stood in stark contrast to the "bigger is better" trends of the early 2000s. Broc Cellars' technical approach is defined by a commitment to natural winemaking, an artistic eye for blending, and a deep respect for the growers who practice sustainable, organic, and now, even regenerative farming.

Terroir: The California Mosaic

Broc Cellars is a négociant, meaning it traditionally bought grapes rather than owning vineyards. This approach has allowed Chris Brockway to curate a diverse and exciting portfolio of wines that are a reflection of California's varied landscape. In 2023, however, the winery purchased the famed Fox Hill Vineyard in Mendocino County, a significant milestone that has further deepened their commitment to a hands-on, holistic approach.

  • Diverse Vineyard Sources: Broc Cellars sources from a wide range of vineyards, from the cool, marine-influenced sites of Mendocino to the warmer inland areas of the Central Coast. This enables them to work with a diverse selection of grapes, including both familiar varieties and lesser-known gems.

  • Organic Farming: The foundation of Broc Cellars' winemaking is its strong relationships with growers who are committed to organic farming. They believe that a healthy vineyard ecosystem is essential for producing vibrant, expressive wines. This commitment is exemplified by their purchase of Fox Hill Vineyard, which they have long sourced Italian varieties from.

  • Old Vines and Unsung Varieties: Brockway is particularly drawn to old, dry-farmed vineyards and to "unsung" grape varieties like Valdiguié, Counoise, and Cabernet Pfeffer. These grapes, often with a long history in California, are a key component of their unique blends and style.

Winemaking: An "Un-egotistical," Natural Approach

In the cellar, Broc Cellars' philosophy is about guiding the wine, not dictating it. They aim to produce wines that are "uplifting" and "alive," a direct result of their minimal interventionist techniques.

  • Native Yeast Fermentation: All of Broc Cellars' wines undergo spontaneous fermentation using native yeasts.This is a crucial element of their natural winemaking approach, as these yeasts are unique to the grapes and the winery environment, adding complexity and authenticity to the final product.

  • Minimal Additions and Intervention: Broc Cellars' winemaking is defined by what they don't do. They do not add nutrients, enzymes, or commercial tannins. They avoid fining and filtering, which can strip a wine of its natural character, and they use little to no sulfur dioxide (SO2), adding a minimal amount only at bottling, depending on the wine and the vintage.

  • Diverse Fermentation Styles: Brockway is a creative and experimental winemaker. For example, he utilizes carbonic maceration for some reds (like his Carignan) to create a fresh, fruit-forward style. He also uses foot-stomping for some of his white wines to allow for a brief period of skin contact, which adds texture and complexity.

  • Neutral Vessels: Their wines are aged in a variety of neutral vessels, including older French oak barrels, concrete tanks, and even sandstone jars for some of their Italian varieties from Fox Hill. This choice ensures that the character of the fruit and the terroir are not masked by the flavor of new oak.

Broc Cellars' technical approach is a beautiful marriage of traditional, hands-off winemaking with a modern, experimental spirit. By focusing on organic farming, native yeast, and minimal intervention, they have become a standard-bearer for natural wine in California, producing a diverse and captivating portfolio that is a true reflection of the Golden State's potential for fresh, vibrant, and approachable wines.