The Selvatica Aesthetic of Umbria

The story of Cantina Marco Merli begins not in a cellar, but on a catwalk. Over a decade ago, Marco Merli left a successful career as a fashion designer to become a naturalista in the Umbrian hills just outside of Perugia. It was a radical change — from the artificial world of haute couture to the organic rhythms of viticulture — but one that Marco embraced with the same attention to detail and aesthetic rigour that had defined his design work. He brought to winemaking an astute sense of composition, balance, and texture — qualities that now define his wines.

The winery was founded in 2002 by his father, Enzo Merli, on land where Marco's grandfather once worked — in the village of Casa del Diavolo, a small settlement near Perugia in the Colli Altotiberini. The name "Casa del Diavolo" — the House of the Devil — is of obscure origin, but it lends the estate an unforgettable, slightly rebellious character that suits Marco's unconventional path. The property had been farmed by the family for generations, but it was Enzo who first established the winery, and Marco who transformed it into a reference point for natural wine in Umbria.

Marco's transition from fashion to wine was not merely a career change; it was a philosophical shift. In fashion, he had learned to work with materials — to understand how fabrics draped, how colours interacted, how a garment moved on the body. In wine, he applied the same principles to grapes and terroir: how varieties blended, how soils expressed themselves, how a wine evolved in the glass. The result is a winemaking style that is precise, intentional, and deeply aesthetic — but never artificial. Marco doesn't make wild wines; he makes wines that are controlled, composed, and beautifully structured, with the wildness of Umbria woven into every sip.

Today, Marco and his father Enzo work together — a collaboration of two generations, each bringing their own perspective to the estate. Marco is the visionary, the aesthete, the "marathon runner of authentic wine." Enzo provides the grounding of decades of farming experience. Together, they have made Cantina Marco Merli one of the most exciting names in Italian natural wine — a producer that commands attention from New York to Tokyo, from Paris to Melbourne.

At Cantina Marco Merli, the cellar philosophy is one of meticulous precision and radical simplicity. Marco vinifies parcel by parcel, variety by variety, in dozens of re-conditioned small cement or fiberglass tanks — a method that allows him to capture the distinct character of each vineyard patch before blending. This is not bulk winemaking; it is a form of viticultural pointillism, where each small tank contributes a dot of colour to the final composition. The result is wines of extraordinary complexity and balance — layered, woven, and interwoven with the wildness of the Umbrian hills.

The techniques are precise and demanding:

Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested and sorted. Marco walks the vineyards daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries, checking seeds, and monitoring acidity. Each parcel is picked at optimal maturity, with different varieties and different sites harvested on different days. The selection is rigorous — only the healthiest, ripest fruit enters the cellar.

Fermentation: Indigenous yeasts only — no commercial strains, no enzymes, no temperature control beyond the natural coolness of the cellar. Fermentation takes place in re-conditioned small cement or fiberglass tanks — neutral vessels that provide thermal stability and preserve the wines' mineral character. Marco uses techniques such as partial whole-grape fermentation to add texture and complexity, particularly with Grechetto di Orvieto, whose wild acidity and bitterness are cut and balanced by the inclusion of whole bunches.

Blending: After fermentation, the individual parcel wines are tasted, evaluated, and blended. This is where Marco's fashion-designer eye comes into play — he composes the final cuvées like garments, considering colour, texture, structure, and balance. The blending process can take weeks, as Marco waits for each component to evolve and reveal its true character before making final decisions.

Sulfur: Zero or minimal added sulfur dioxide. Marco is committed to producing stable natural wines without chemical intervention. The wines' natural stability comes from healthy fruit, clean spontaneous fermentation, and the antibacterial properties of the wines' natural acidity. When sulfur is used, it is in the barest amounts — just enough to ensure stability, never enough to mask expression.

Ageing & Bottling: The wines are aged for several months to a year before bottling, allowing them to develop complexity and natural stability. Ageing takes place in a combination of stainless steel, concrete, and old oak barrels — never new wood. The focus is on preserving freshness and terroir expression, not adding oak flavour. Bottling is done without fining or filtration when possible, capturing the living, evolving character of the wine.

The portfolio spans whites, reds, and rosés — each with its own distinct personality and composition:

"Brucisco": A classic Umbrian white blend of Trebbiano, Grechetto, and Malvasia di Candia. Fresh, mineral, and complex — the white that captures the full spectrum of Umbrian white wine tradition. Citrus, almond, white flowers, and a distinct saline finish.

"Bianco 18": A white blend — 50% Vermentino, 30% Trebbiano, 15% Malvasia di Candia, and 5% Grechetto. Fresh, vibrant, and immediately appealing. The Vermentino contributes citrus and herbal notes, the Trebbiano provides body, the Malvasia adds aromatic intensity, and the Grechetto brings acidity and structure.

"Janus": A red wine, often pure Sangiovese or Sangiovese-dominant. Perfect balance between pulp and acidity for a fresh and intensely vibrant sip. Deep expression of Sangiovese — notes of red mature berries and plums, with earthy undertones and firm but elegant tannins. The wine that proves Marco can do structure and finesse.

"Tristo": A popular red blend known for its juicy, fruity character and vibrant acidity. The party wine with serious terroir behind it — fresh, drinkable, and utterly satisfying. A wine that dresses down for a picnic but has the complexity to dress up for dinner.

"Mosco": A lively white wine that showcases Marco's unique style — perhaps a Moscato-based or Moscato-influenced cuvée. Fresh, floral, and aromatic, with a touch of sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity. The playful side of the selvatica aesthetic.

"Bianco 17": Another white expression — perhaps from a different vintage or different blend composition than Bianco 18. Each year's white is a new composition, reflecting the vintage, the parcels, and Marco's evolving vision.

"Bianco 19": Further white expression — the numbering system reflects Marco's fashion-designer approach to vintage differentiation. Each number is a distinct collection, a unique composition of the year's materials.