The Factory & the Vineyard
Cantina Margò is the story of a rebellion — a chocolate factory worker who decided, at age 32, that life was too short to spend making sweets for someone else. In 2008, Carlo Tabarrini founded his winery in Sant'Enea, near Perugia, with a rented half-hectare of abandoned vines and a dream that had been with him since childhood, when his father and grandfather would bring him into the vineyards and sometimes let him drive the tractor. Today, Cantina Margò spans 5.5 hectares — 1 hectare estate-owned, 4.5 hectares rented — across two distinct sites: the original plots in Sant'Enea at 180–350 meters on Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils rich in marl, limestone, and clay; and a stunning new acquisition in Preggio at 600 meters, a wild, wooded, silent place on beautiful limestone bedrock, completely without neighbors. Carlo farms organically and biodynamically, works alone (with only his mother helping at harvest), and makes wine with zero additions, no temperature control, no clarification, no filtration, and minimal sulfites — often under 10 mg/liter. "I'm not looking for points, prizes, or recognition — I'm only seeking to make a wine according to my own sensibility and my own taste." This is not a brand. This is a man, his vines, and an unshakeable conviction that wine should taste like the place it comes from.
From the Chocolate Factory & to the Vine
The story of Cantina Margò is the story of Carlo Tabarrini — born in 1976, raised among the vines of Umbria, and determined from an early age that wine, not chocolate, would be his life's work. When Carlo was four years old, his father and grandfather would bring him into the vineyards, where he was sometimes allowed to drive the tractor. They made wine for family consumption and grew grapes to sell. These childhood memories — the smell of fermenting must, the feel of the soil, the rhythm of the seasons — stayed with him through adolescence and into adulthood. But like many who grow up in rural areas, Carlo found himself drawn first to steady employment. He spent six years working in a chocolate factory in Perugia, a job that "lost its charm as quickly as one might imagine," as one importer wryly notes. The factory was dispassionate work, and Carlo was industrious but unfulfilled. He leased vines in Sant'Enea from 2002 to 2008, learning the craft in his spare time, and then, in 2008, at the age of 32, he struck out on his own. Cantina Margò was born.
At first, the project was tiny — a rented 0.5-hectare parcel of abandoned or neglected vineyards in Sant'Enea, a small town near Perugia. Carlo worked part-time, producing experimental batches while still holding his factory job. His passion soon grew into a full-time commitment, and in 2015 he was finally able to leave the factory for good, expanding the domaine to 3 hectares. By 2020, Cantina Margò had grown to 5.5 hectares, with the acquisition of a stunning new vineyard in Preggio — 40 minutes up the hill from Sant'Enea, at 600 meters elevation on beautiful limestone bedrock, completely without neighbors, in a wild, wooded area that feels silent and untouched. This new site, with its dramatic altitude difference and pristine isolation, represents the future of Cantina Margò: a place where Carlo can experiment with new varieties and express a completely different facet of Umbrian terroir.
Carlo's approach has been natural and biodynamic from the beginning, not as an ideological choice but as a practical one — a return to the way his grandparents and father made wine. He works alone in the vineyard, aided only by his mother during harvest. He uses biodynamic preparations made with manure and herbs, works in line with the astronomical calendar, and keeps machinery to a minimum. No pesticides, no chemicals, no synthetic inputs of any kind. The vines he tends are between 25 and 45 years old, with some parcels reaching 50 years — old vines that have deep roots in the ancient lakebed soils and that produce fruit of remarkable concentration and character. Carlo's careful work restoring these precious sites has given him the reputation of one of the most dedicated farmers in inland Umbria, a region not known for natural wine but increasingly recognized for producers like Carlo who are putting it on the map.
Today, Cantina Margò is recognized within the natural wine community for its bold, energetic, mineral-driven wines that embody Umbrian terroir. The estate is listed by RAW WINE, Raisin, Williams Corner Wine, Primal Wine, Folkways Wine, Lo-Fi Wines, and a growing network of natural wine importers and retailers worldwide. The wines — Regio, Fiero, AC/DT, Margo Rosso, Margo Rosato — are not standardized products but unique, characterful bottlings that change from year to year, strongly tied to site and vintage. Carlo's goal is simple, yet profound: "to perceive in the wine what I see and feel in the vineyard." This is not a marketing slogan; it is the guiding principle of a man who has sacrificed security for passion, who works alone with his hands in the dirt, and who believes that the best wine is the one that most honestly expresses the land, the season, and the soul of the vigneron.
"I'm not looking for points, prizes, or recognition — I'm only seeking to make a wine according to my own sensibility and my own taste."
— Carlo Tabarrini
Sant'Enea & Preggio
Cantina Margò's 5.5 hectares of vineyards are divided between two distinct sites in the province of Perugia, Umbria — a region often overshadowed by Tuscany but increasingly recognized for its distinctive, underrated wines. The original plots are in Sant'Enea, on the communes of Sant'Enea and San Nicolò di Celle, near the city of Perugia, at an altitude of 180–350 meters above sea level. These vineyards sit on ancient Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils — a geological formation of extraordinary richness, composed of marl, limestone, clay, and sand. The soils are the legacy of an ancient lake that once covered this part of Umbria, leaving behind sediments that are now rich in minerals and organic matter. The second site, acquired more recently, is in Preggio — 40 minutes up the hill from Sant'Enea, at 600 meters elevation, on beautiful limestone bedrock in a wild, wooded area completely without neighbors. This dramatic altitude difference — 400 meters higher than the original plots — creates a completely different mesoclimate and allows Carlo to explore new varieties and expressions.
The terroir of Sant'Enea is defined by its ancient lakebed origins. The soils — marl, limestone, clay, and sand — are rich in minerals and have a high chalk content, which gives the wines their distinctive salty minerality. The exposure is southeast, capturing the morning sun and providing good airflow to reduce disease pressure. The altitude, while modest, creates sufficient diurnal temperature variation to preserve acidity and develop complex aromatics. The vines, aged 20 to 45 years and in some cases up to 50 years, are deeply rooted in these layered soils, extracting minerals and water from the different geological strata. The result is a terroir that produces wines of vibrant minerality, energetic acidity, and a kind of earthy, saline depth that is unmistakably Umbrian. The chalk in the soils is particularly important — it is what gives Carlo's wines their "vibrant salty minerality," a quality that has become the signature of Cantina Margò.
The Preggio site represents a new frontier for Cantina Margò. At 600 meters elevation, on limestone bedrock in a wild, wooded area without neighbors, this vineyard offers a completely different expression of Umbrian terroir. The higher altitude means cooler temperatures, slower ripening, and greater acidity retention. The limestone bedrock — different from the layered lakebed soils of Sant'Enea — provides a purer, more direct mineral expression, with less clay and more rock. The isolation of the site — completely surrounded by forest, with no other vineyards nearby — means a pristine environment, free from the chemical drift and disease pressure that can affect more densely planted areas. Here, Carlo has planted Sangiovese, Grechetto, Trebbiano, and Manzoni Bianco — a crossing of Riesling and Pinot Bianco that brings a northern, aromatic dimension to the portfolio. The Preggio site is, as one visitor described it, "insanely beautiful" — a place of silence, wildness, and extraordinary potential.
Farming at Cantina Margò is organic and biodynamic, with a philosophy that emphasizes manual labor, natural preparations, and the rejection of all synthetic inputs. Carlo works alone in the vineyard, using biodynamic preparations made with manure and herbs, and timing his work according to the astronomical calendar. Machinery is used as little as possible — the steep, rocky terrain and the small scale of the operation make mechanization impractical and undesirable. The vines are cultivated with extreme care, their old roots deeply embedded in the marl and limestone, producing low yields of highly concentrated fruit. The harvest is entirely manual, with Carlo and his mother carefully selecting each bunch. No pesticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilizers. The goal is not maximum yield but maximum expression — letting the old vines, the ancient soils, and the unique climate of each site produce grapes that need no embellishment in the cellar.
Sant'Enea & San Nicolò di Celle, near Perugia, Umbria. Altitude: 180–350 meters. Ancient Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils. Composition: marl, limestone, clay, and sand. High chalk content — vibrant salty minerality. Southeast exposure, morning sun, good airflow. 20–45 year-old vines, some up to 50 years. Deeply rooted in layered sediments. Continental climate with Mediterranean influences. Significant diurnal temperature variation. Etruscan heritage — ancient civilization that thrived here. No synthetic inputs, biodynamic preparations.
Preggio, 40 minutes up the hill from Sant'Enea, Perugia, Umbria. Altitude: 600 meters — 400m higher than original plots. Limestone bedrock — purer, more direct mineral expression. Wild, wooded area, completely without neighbors. Pristine environment, no chemical drift, no disease pressure. Cooler temperatures, slower ripening, greater acidity retention. Isolated, silent, untouched. New varieties: Manzoni Bianco (Riesling x Pinot Bianco crossing), alongside Sangiovese, Grechetto, Trebbiano. Dramatically different mesoclimate. Future of Cantina Margò.
Certified organic. Biodynamic practices: preparations with manure and herbs, astronomical calendar timing. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers. Machinery used as little as possible. Carlo works alone, aided only by his mother at harvest. Manual labor in steep, rocky terrain. Old vines (20–50 years) with deep roots in marl and limestone. Low yields for high concentration. Careful hand-selection of each bunch. Goal: maximum expression, not maximum yield. Natural and biodynamic as practical choice — the way his grandparents and father made wine.
Sangiovese — the great red grape of central Italy, here expressed with Umbrian minerality and energy. Trebbiano Spoletino — indigenous white, macerated for orange wines, structured and saline. Grechetto — structured white with nutty complexity, backbone of Orvieto DOC, here given skin contact for texture. Manzoni Bianco — crossing of Riesling and Pinot Bianco, northern aromatic dimension, planted at Preggio. Verdello — local variety, idea for sur lie sparkling wine. Varieties chosen for ability to express ancient lakebed soils and limestone bedrock. Old vines, deep roots, concentrated fruit.
Zero Additions & No Temperature Control
At Cantina Margò, the cellar philosophy is one of radical simplicity — a rejection of all the technological interventions that modern oenology has made standard. Carlo Tabarrini's approach is not ideological but practical, rooted in the traditions of his father and grandfather and refined by his own intuition and experience. The vinification is simple: having chosen the perfect moment of ripeness, the grapes are partially destemmed and put directly into tanks without temperature control. Carlo tastes the fermenting must every day to decide when to press. There are no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives of any kind. The wines are not clarified, not stabilized, not filtered. Sulfur is used in minimal, homeopathic doses — often under 10 mg/liter total SO₂, and only when the vintage demands it. For Carlo, the goal is not to create a standardized product but to "perceive in the wine what I see and feel in the vineyard" — to capture the energy, the minerality, the character of each site and each season in a bottle that is as honest as the land it comes from.
The techniques are deliberately primitive, responsive, and deeply personal. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, in stainless steel and fiberglass tanks — vessels chosen for their neutrality and ease of cleaning rather than for any flavor contribution. For some cuvées, a small percentage of the wine (10–25%) is aged in neutral oak barrels for 3–4 months, adding texture and complexity without masking the wine's inherent character. The reds — Sangiovese — undergo extended maceration: 3 weeks for the Rosso, 10 days for the Rosato, with daily tastings to determine the exact moment of pressing. The whites — Trebbiano and Grechetto — see skin contact ranging from 1 night to 6 days, creating orange wines of remarkable structure and savory depth. The AC/DT sparkling wine is made by the ancestral method, with bottle fermentation creating gentle, rustic effervescence. Every decision is made by Carlo alone, based on taste, intuition, and the daily evolution of the fermenting must.
"Regio Bianco" — The Skin-Macerated Trebbiano: The Regio Bianco is Cantina Margò's foundational orange wine — a pure expression of Trebbiano Spoletino from 20–45 year-old vines on Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils, given 6 days of skin contact to extract texture, tannin, and the savory depth that defines great orange wine. The name "Regio" evokes the regal, structured character of this wine — a white treated with the respect usually reserved for reds. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and fiberglass, with 20% aged in neutral oak and 80% in steel. In the glass, it is bright amber with orange reflections. The nose offers dried apricot, orange peel, wild herbs, almond, and a distinct chalky, mineral note. The palate is medium-bodied, with grippy tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, saline finish. It is a wine of structure and place — proof that Trebbiano, when grown on ancient lakebed soils and given honest skin contact, can achieve a complexity and depth that rivals more celebrated varieties. Serve slightly chilled at 10–12°C. Drink within 3–5 years. ~€18–€25 / ~$20–$28.
"Fiero Bianco" — The Grechetto of Pride: The Fiero Bianco is Cantina Margò's Grechetto — a variety famous as the backbone of Orvieto DOC, here given a completely different expression through brief skin contact and spontaneous fermentation. The name "Fiero" means "proud" — a nod to the variety's native dignity and Carlo's pride in showcasing it without the conventions of industrial white winemaking. The grapes are destemmed and given 1 night of skin contact (or 2 days in some vintages), then fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and fiberglass, with 20% aged in neutral oak and 80% in steel. In the glass, it is deep gold with amber reflections. The nose offers quince, orange marmalade, dried herbs, citrus zest, and a distinct mineral, earthy undertone. The palate is grippy and energetic, with flavors of apricot skin, preserved lemon, wild honey, and a long, textured, savory finish. It is a wine of energy and authenticity — the Grechetto expression of Umbrian lakebed terroir, proud and unadorned. Serve slightly chilled at 10–12°C. Drink within 2–4 years. ~€18–€25 / ~$20–$28.
"AC/DT" — The Ancestral Sparkling: The AC/DT is Cantina Margò's sparkling wine — made from macerated Trebbiano by the ancestral method, with bottle fermentation creating a cloudy, rustic, effervescent wine that is as honest as it is joyful. The name is a playful reference that evokes the energy and rebellious spirit of the project — a wine that refuses to be categorized or conventional. Fermented spontaneously, with no temperature control, no clarification, no filtration, and minimal sulfites. In the glass, it is cloudy amber-gold with active, rustic bubbles. The nose offers quince, orange marmalade, dried herbs, citrus zest, and a distinct yeasty, bread-crust note from the lees. The palate is grippy and energetic, with flavors of apricot skin, preserved lemon, and a long, textured, mineral finish. It is a wine of celebration and authenticity — the sparkling expression of Umbrian terroir, unfiltered, undisgorged, and alive. Serve well chilled at 6–8°C. Drink within 1–2 years. ~€20–€28 / ~$22–$30.
"Margo Rosso" — The Sangiovese of Umbria: The Margo Rosso is Cantina Margò's red — a pure Sangiovese from 35-year-old vines on sand and limestone, given 25 days of skin contact and aged with 80% in neutral oak and 20% in steel. This is not a Tuscan Sangiovese — it is an Umbrian Sangiovese, with a different mineral imprint, a different energy, a different soul. The name simply bears the winery's name, a statement of identity and place. Fermented spontaneously, with no temperature control, no additives, no clarification, no filtration. In the glass, it is medium ruby with garnet reflections. The nose offers wild cherry, plum, dried herbs, earthy minerality, and a distinct chalky, saline note. The palate is medium-bodied, with firm yet approachable tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, complex finish. It is a wine of frankness and deliciousness — "some tannic structure but well-handled despite a touch of coarseness, pure vibrant dark red fruit," as one retailer notes. Serve at 16–18°C. Ages well for 3–7 years. ~€18–€25 / ~$20–$28.
"Margo Rosato / Fiero Rosato" — The Sangiovese Pink: The Margo Rosato (also labeled Fiero Rosato in some vintages) is Cantina Margò's rosé — made from Sangiovese with 10 days of skin contact, creating a wine that is more light red than pink, with texture, structure, and the savory depth that defines Carlo's approach. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and fiberglass, with 80% aged in neutral oak and 20% in steel — an unusual choice for a rosé that gives the wine remarkable complexity and ageing potential. In the glass, it is pale ruby with copper reflections. The nose offers wild strawberry, pomegranate, rose petal, dried herbs, and a distinct mineral, earthy note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, gentle tannins, and a long, refreshing, savory finish. It is a wine of crunch and zing — "an ultra light red destined for pre-Thanksgiving dinner, with a crunchy texture and zingy hints of pomegranate," as one importer describes it. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink within 1–3 years. ~€16–€22 / ~$18–$24.
Vessels & Ageing: Cantina Margò works with a deliberately simple arsenal of vessels: stainless steel tanks and fiberglass containers for fermentation and ageing — neutral, clean, and unobtrusive. A small percentage of each cuvée (10–25%) is aged in neutral oak barrels for 3–4 months, adding texture and complexity without masking the wine's inherent character. The oak is used sparingly and wisely — "le fût de chêne n'est utilisé que très sagement et pour un petit pourcentage des jus de chaque cuvée," as one French importer notes. There are no temperature control systems, no filtration equipment, no clarification apparatus. The cellar is a place of simplicity and intuition, where Carlo tastes the fermenting must every day, decides by feel when to press, and bottles the wine when it is ready — not when a schedule demands it. The result is a portfolio that is unmistakably Cantina Margò: energetic, textured, mineral-driven, and deeply tied to the ancient lakebed soils and the wild limestone heights of Umbria.
"Regio Bianco" — "100% Trebbiano Spoletino from 20–45 Year-Old Vines on Pliocene-Miocene Lakebed Soils — 6 Days Skin Contact, Spontaneous Fermentation, 20% Neutral Oak / 80% Steel, No Clarification, No Filtration, Minimal Sulfites — The Structured, Saline, Orange Wine of Ancient Umbria"
The Regio Bianco is Cantina Margò's foundational and most representative wine — the skin-macerated Trebbiano that encapsulates everything Carlo Tabarrini believes about organic and biodynamic viticulture, spontaneous fermentation, and the transformative power of ancient lakebed soils, old vines, and zero-intervention winemaking. It is not merely an orange wine; it is a testament to the beauty of Umbria's Pliocene-Miocene lakebed when cultivated with obsessive care, the courage of a man who left a chocolate factory to follow his dream, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the land without any industrial embellishment. The name evokes regality and structure — a white wine treated with the respect and seriousness usually reserved for the great reds of Italy.
The viticulture is organic and biodynamic — no synthetic pesticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilizers. Carlo works alone, aided only by his mother at harvest, focusing on maintaining healthy vines on the marl, limestone, clay, and sand slopes of Sant'Enea — creating an environment where 20–45 year-old Trebbiano vines can express their full potential of dried apricot, orange peel, wild herbs, almond, and chalky minerality. The vines are deeply rooted in the layered lakebed sediments, extracting minerals and water from the different geological strata. The southeast exposure captures the morning sun, while the altitude and the nearby forests create a cool, ventilated microclimate that preserves acidity and develops complex aromatics. The harvest is entirely manual, with careful selection of each bunch.
In the cellar, the grapes are partially destemmed and given 6 days of skin contact — enough to extract tannin, texture, and the savory depth that defines great orange wine, but not so much as to overwhelm the wine's natural freshness. The fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and fiberglass tanks — no commercial yeasts, no temperature control, no enological additives. Carlo tastes the fermenting must every day to decide when to press, guided by intuition and experience rather than laboratory analysis. After fermentation, 20% of the wine is aged in neutral oak barrels for 3–4 months, adding texture and complexity, while 80% remains in steel to preserve freshness and primary fruit. There is no clarification, no stabilization, no filtration. Sulfur is used in minimal, homeopathic doses — often under 10 mg/liter total SO₂ — and only when the vintage demands it.
In the glass, it is bright amber with orange reflections — vibrant, alive, autumnal. The nose is intense and complex: dried apricot, orange peel, wild herbs, almond, and a distinct chalky, mineral note that speaks of the ancient lakebed and the high limestone content of the soils. There are hints of wild honey, a touch of tea, and a subtle earthiness that adds depth and intrigue. The palate is medium-bodied, with grippy tannins from the skin contact, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, saline finish that seems to echo the Umbrian landscape itself — the lakebed soils, the olive groves, the Etruscan ruins, and the patient work of a solitary vigneron all present in every sip. It is a wine of great personality — a wine that proves that when Trebbiano is grown organically on ancient lakebed soils, harvested with care, and made with honest skin contact and zero intervention, the result is an orange wine of both immediate pleasure and profound authenticity, of both energy and depth.
The Regio Bianco is a wine of the table and the contemplative afternoon — it pairs beautifully with roasted vegetables, aged cheeses, seafood, or simply with good bread and Umbrian olive oil as the sun sets over the Perugian hills. Serve slightly chilled at 10–12°C. It will reward careful drinking, developing more dried fruit, nuts, and mineral complexity over 3–5 years. Every bottle is a testament to the power of rebellion, the beauty of organic farming on ancient soils, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the factory worker who became a vigneron, the lakebed that became a vineyard, and the Trebbiano that became a regal orange wine. ~€18–€25 / ~$20–$28.
The Cantina Margò Range
Carlo Tabarrini produces approximately 23,000 bottles annually from 5.5 hectares of organic and biodynamic vineyards in Sant'Enea and Preggio, near Perugia, Umbria. All wines are estate-grown or from rented parcels that Carlo farms directly, hand-harvested, and made with spontaneous fermentation. No commercial yeasts, no temperature control, no clarification, no stabilization, no filtration. Minimal sulfites — often under 10 mg/liter total SO₂. The wines are aged primarily in stainless steel and fiberglass, with 10–25% of each cuvée seeing brief ageing in neutral oak. The portfolio includes orange wines, whites, reds, rosés, and sparkling — all deeply rooted in the ancient Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils of Sant'Enea and the pristine limestone bedrock of Preggio. These are energetic, textured, mineral-driven wines that change from year to year, strongly tied to site and vintage. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
Cantina Margò produces approximately 23,000 bottles annually from 5.5 hectares of organic and biodynamic vineyards in Sant'Enea (180–350m, Pliocene-Miocene lakebed soils) and Preggio (600m, limestone bedrock), near Perugia, Umbria. All wines are hand-harvested and made with spontaneous fermentation. No commercial yeasts, no temperature control, no clarification, no stabilization, no filtration. Minimal sulfites — often under 10 mg/liter total SO₂. The portfolio includes Regio Bianco (skin-macerated Trebbiano), Fiero Bianco (skin-macerated Grechetto), AC/DT (ancestral method sparkling Trebbiano), Margo Rosso (Sangiovese), and Margo Rosato/Fiero Rosato (Sangiovese). The estate also has plans for a Verdello sur lie sparkling wine. Founded in 2008 by Carlo Tabarrini, who left a chocolate factory to follow his dream. Old vines (20–50 years), deeply rooted in marl, limestone, clay, and sand. Carlo works alone, aided only by his mother at harvest. Member of RAW WINE, Raisin. Distributed by Williams Corner Wine, Primal Wine, Folkways Wine, Lo-Fi Wines, Steven Graf Wine, Terroirizer, Thirst Merchants, Biondivino, Galli Enoteca, Amis du Château, Garage Store, and select natural wine retailers worldwide.
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Steven Graf Wine
Callmewine – Cantina Margò
Primal Wine – Cantina Margò AC/DT Bianco Sparkling
Lo-Fi Wines (importer / distributor)
Natural-Wines.com – Cantina Margò
Galli Enoteca – Cantina Margo
Folkways – Cantina Margò Umbria Rosso 2021
Gallienoteca – Regio Bianco Cantina Margò 2020