Come Una Volta — As in the Past
Azienda Agricola Cascina Fontana is a small, traditional family wine estate in the heart of the Barolo zone, in the hamlet of Perno near Monforte d'Alba, about 15 km from Alba. Here, the Fontana family have cultivated grapes and produced wine for at least six generations — historical records show the family owned 5 hectares of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto by the mid-17th century, and served as mayors and tax collectors in the town archives. Today, Mario Fontana continues this legacy with his wife Luisa, overseeing the entire cycle of production from vineyard to bottle with the greatest and most meticulous care. Named Gambero Rosso Winemaker of the Year 2025, Mario's philosophy is simple and profound: "come una volta" — as in the past, as his grandfather Saverio would have done. The estate spans approximately 7 hectares of vineyards across some of the most prestigious crus in the Barolo zone: Castiglione Falletto (Valletti, Mariondino, Villero, del Pozzo), La Morra (Gallinotto/Giachini), Sinio (del Castello, Lirano, Mombello), and Monforte d'Alba (Sottoperno). The wines are made with indigenous yeasts, long macerations, and ageing in large Slavonian oak casks and used barriques — no refrigerated tanks, minimal intervention, and an unwavering commitment to the culture, traditions, and history of Le Langhe. This is not modern, engineered winemaking; it is a living continuation of six generations of Barolo tradition.
From 17th-Century Archives to Mario's Rebellion
The story of the Fontana family begins in the mid-17th century, when historical records show they already owned 5 hectares of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto — one of the eleven towns where Nebbiolo grapes are transformed into Barolo. The family was prominent in the socio-political life of the town, serving as mayors and tax collectors, their names preserved in the local archives. With the political upheavals of the Napoleonic era, the Fontanas relocated to the countryside near the border with Monforte d'Alba, in the Mariondino area. In the latter half of the 19th century, two Fontana brothers divided the estate: the elder kept the historic Mariondino farmhouse (Cascina Fontana), while the younger held on to most of the vineyards and moved further down to Cascina Fontanin — which would become the childhood home of Mario Fontana over a century later.
Being born among the vineyard rows and following his grandfather Saverio through the vines as a child sparked Mario's passion for working the land. He knew he wanted to be a winemaker, leaving school at 17 to pursue it. But not everything was easy: in the early 1980s, the Langhe had not yet seen the prosperity it enjoys today, and young Mario clashed with his father Ettore, whose approach to wine was primarily commercial. Understanding his grandson's independent spirit, Saverio purchased Cascina Fontana in 1990 — which had remained with the other branch of the family — and left it to Mario before he passed. Not long after, Mario left the family business to focus with his own family on the 2 hectares of vineyards at Cascina Fontana in Villero and Mariondino.
The 1995 harvest, vinified in a newly set-up cellar in Perno, was sold in bulk to generate funds for the cellar and its equipment for the following year. Fortunately, many customers who didn't agree with the new direction of his father's estate — and that of many other Langhe producers — returned to Mario's wines, which retained a decisively more traditional style. The initial few bottles went entirely abroad. Since then, with the help of many friends, the vineyards have expanded: 3 hectares were added in Sinio, followed by 7,000 square meters of the Gallinotto vineyard in the Annunziata area of La Morra, Giachini sub-zone, from his wife Luisa. Today, the estate spans around 7 hectares. The very elegant and authentic style of the estate's wines has made Cascina Fontana an unmissable Barolo reference.
In 2025, Gambero Rosso named Mario Fontana Winemaker of the Year — a recognition of his artisanal philosophy, his commitment to maintaining the right finesse in his wine, and his decision to intervene as little as possible in both vineyard and cellar. The citation praised the 2019 Barolo from Castiglione Falletto as "marvellous at every stage of tasting" — delicate ruby with garnet tones, a nose of raspberry, tobacco, liquorice, and violet, and a palate where power is perfectly balanced with the elegance of the tannins. This is the culmination of six generations of tradition, one man's rebellion, and an unwavering commitment to "come una volta."
"I learned winemaking from my grandfather Saverio and I still do many things come una volta — as in the past, as my grandfather himself would have done. I pride myself above all on making genuine wines that are natural, true expressions of nostro territorio — our land and our culture."
— Mario Fontana, Cascina Fontana
Barolo Crus, Tortonian Soil & Six Generations of Care
Azienda Agricola Cascina Fontana's vineyards are located across some of the most prestigious zones of production in the Barolo DOCG. The estate spans approximately 7 hectares, divided among multiple crus in four communes: Castiglione Falletto (vigna Valletti, cru Mariondino, vigna Villero/cru Villero, and vigna del Pozzo); La Morra (vigna Gallinotto/cru Giachini); Sinio (vigna del Castello, vigna Lirano, vigna Mombello); and Monforte d'Alba (Vigna "Sottoperno"). This diversity of sites gives the estate access to a remarkable range of terroirs within the Barolo zone — each vineyard contributing its own character to the final wines.
The soils are Tortonian — a mix of clay, sand, and limestone that is the geological signature of the Barolo hills. Tortonian soils are known for producing wines of elegance, finesse, and aromatic complexity, with the clay providing structure, the sand ensuring drainage, and the limestone contributing minerality and freshness. Castiglione Falletto, where the Fontana family's roots run deepest, is particularly renowned for its compact, calcareous soils that yield Barolos of exceptional longevity and depth. La Morra's soils tend to produce wines of greater approachability and perfume, while Monforte d'Alba's steeper slopes and mixed soils contribute power and structure. The Sinio vineyards add another dimension, with their unique microclimate and soil composition.
The climate is continental with Alpine influence — warm summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal temperature shifts during the growing season. The Langhe hills create a landscape of steep slopes, plunging valleys, and vine-covered ridges that are perfectly suited to Nebbiolo's demanding nature. The elevation, the exposure, and the natural ventilation of the hills combine to create ideal conditions for slow, even ripening — essential for developing the complex aromatics and firm tannins that define great Barolo. Fog in the valleys, sun on the ridges, and the constant interplay of light and shadow shape the grapes throughout the season.
Farming is traditional and low-intervention, with Mario overseeing every stage of production from vineyard to cellar. The vines are tended with meticulous care throughout the year — pruning, canopy management, and harvest all performed by hand with an eye toward balance and health. Mario's philosophy is to intervene as little as possible: no synthetic chemicals, no aggressive treatments, only observation and respect for the natural rhythms of the vine. The goal is not maximum yield but maximum expression — grapes that carry the full character of their specific cru, harvested at optimal maturity after careful daily tasting and observation. This is farming as it was done "come una volta" — as in the past, when growers knew every vine by name and every slope by heart.
Classic Barolo geology. Clay provides structure, sand ensures drainage, limestone contributes minerality and freshness. Castiglione Falletto's compact calcareous soils yield exceptional longevity. La Morra's soils produce elegance and perfume. Monforte d'Alba contributes power. The foundation of Barolo's legendary character.
Warm summers, cold winters, significant diurnal shifts. Fog in valleys, sun on ridges. Steep slopes and natural ventilation create ideal conditions for Nebbiolo's slow, even ripening. The interplay of light and shadow shapes complex aromatics and firm tannins — the signature of great Barolo.
No synthetic chemicals, no aggressive treatments. Hand-pruned, hand-harvested. Daily tasting and observation to determine optimal maturity. Balance and health as goals, not maximum yield. Every vine known, every slope understood. Farming "come una volta" — as in the past, when growers lived among their vines.
Castiglione Falletto (Valletti, Mariondino, Villero, del Pozzo). La Morra (Gallinotto/Giachini). Sinio (del Castello, Lirano, Mombello). Monforte d'Alba (Sottoperno). Six generations of roots in these vineyards. The Fontana name in town archives since the 1600s. A living archive of Barolo terroir and tradition.
Indigenous Yeasts, Long Macerations & No Refrigerated Tanks
At Azienda Agricola Cascina Fontana, the cellar philosophy is one of radical traditionalism — not as nostalgia, but as conviction. Mario Fontana learned winemaking from his grandfather Saverio, and he still does many things "come una volta" — as in the past, as his grandfather himself would have done. The techniques are old-fashioned in style but precise in execution: indigenous yeasts, long macerations, ageing in large Slavonian oak casks and used barriques, and absolutely no refrigerated tanks. Mario's artisanal philosophy is to maintain the right finesse in his wine, intervening as little as possible in both vineyard and cellar. The result is wines that are elegant, authentic, and unmistakably of their place — Barolos of wonderful finesse that have made Cascina Fontana an unmissable reference in the Langhe.
The techniques are demanding, patient, and deeply rooted in six generations of tradition:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's 7 hectares across multiple crus. Mario monitors each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness. Dolcetto is the earliest harvested grape, followed by Barbera, then Nebbiolo for Langhe Nebbiolo, and finally Nebbiolo for Barolo — the last to ripen, demanding the most patience.
Fermentation & Maceration: Once the grapes reach the cellar, they are destemmed and gently crushed, allowing the juice to flow. The crushed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats, where fermentation starts naturally — the indigenous yeast present on the grape skins begins to feed on the sugar, initiating the process. The duration of fermentation varies by variety and intended wine. Dolcetto, being the earliest harvested, typically undergoes a relatively short fermentation of approximately six to seven days, resulting in a wine ready to be enjoyed the summer following harvest. For Barbera, fermentation lasts around ten to twelve days. Nebbiolo grapes for Langhe Nebbiolo wines ferment for a minimum of fifteen days, while for Barolo production, maceration can extend up to forty days — extracting the tannins and natural components necessary for long ageing.
"Barolo DOCG" — The Flagship: The Barolo is the estate's most celebrated wine, made from Nebbiolo grapes fermented for up to forty days and then aged in large Slavonian oak casks (botte) for at least two years. Subsequently, the wine is blended and further aged in cement vats for another year. After bottling, it continues to age for an additional six months before release. The 2019 Barolo from Castiglione Falletto — the vintage that helped earn Mario the Gambero Rosso Winemaker of the Year title — displays a delicate ruby colour with garnet tones of beautiful luminosity. The nose offers abundant, clear notes of raspberry and small red fruits, alongside complex hints of tobacco, liquorice, and fresh violet. On the palate, it fully expresses the magic of Castiglione, where power is perfectly balanced with the elegance of the tannins to deliver a wine of class and harmony.
"Langhe Nebbiolo" — The Younger Expression: The Langhe Nebbiolo is made from the same grape as Barolo but with a shorter fermentation period (minimum fifteen days) and ageing in a combination of large botte and used 225-litre barrique barrels for one year. It is a wine that offers a more immediate expression of Nebbiolo's character — the same aromatics, the same structure, but with a gentler tannic profile that makes it approachable sooner. It is elegant, authentic, and a perfect introduction to the Cascina Fontana style.
"Barbera d'Alba" — The Fresh Red: The Barbera is fermented for ten to twelve days and then aged in a combination of large botte and used 225-litre barrique barrels for one year. Barbera's naturally high acidity and deep colour make it a wine of vibrant freshness and food-friendly charm. At Cascina Fontana, it is handled with the same care as Nebbiolo — long maceration, gentle extraction, and ageing in wood that respects the variety's character without overwhelming it. The result is a Barbera of unusual depth and elegance, with the structure to age and the freshness to drink young.
"Dolcetto d'Alba" — The Everyday Wine: The Dolcetto is the earliest harvested and shortest fermented wine in the portfolio — six to seven days of maceration, then maturation in stainless steel vats. It is a wine of immediate pleasure: soft tannins, bright fruit, and a drinkability that makes it the perfect everyday red. But even here, Mario's touch is evident — the Dolcetto is gently vinified to preserve purity and freshness, allowing the variety's hallmark dark fruit, violet, and bitter herb notes to shine without extraction or manipulation.
Ageing & Bottling: The estate's approach to ageing is traditional and patient. Barolo spends at least two years in large Slavonian oak casks, followed by a year in cement vats, then six months in bottle before release. Barbera and Langhe Nebbiolo age for one year in a combination of large botte and used barriques. Dolcetto matures in stainless steel. There are no refrigerated tanks in the cellar — temperature is managed by the natural conditions of the underground space and the seasons. After bottling, all wines continue to age for an additional period before release, ensuring integration and readiness. The labels are simple and elegant, bearing the Fontana family crest and Mario's name — a guarantee of six generations of tradition.
"Barolo DOCG" — "Delicate Ruby, Garnet Tones — Raspberry, Tobacco, Liquorice & Violet at Forty Days"
The "Barolo DOCG" is Azienda Agricola Cascina Fontana's most profound wine — the flagship that has made the estate an unmissable reference in the Langhe and earned Mario Fontana the Gambero Rosso Winemaker of the Year 2025 title. It is a wine of wonderful finesse, where power is perfectly balanced with the elegance of the tannins, delivering a Barolo of class and harmony that speaks of six generations of family tradition.
The grapes come from the estate's Nebbiolo vineyards across multiple crus — primarily Castiglione Falletto (Valletti, Mariondino, Villero), with contributions from La Morra (Gallinotto/Giachini), Sinio, and Monforte d'Alba. The soils are Tortonian — a mix of clay, sand, and limestone that gives Barolo its signature structure, minerality, and ability to age for decades. The vines are hand-tended throughout the year, with meticulous pruning and canopy management, and harvested at optimal maturity after daily tasting and observation.
In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed and gently crushed, then transferred to stainless steel vats where fermentation begins spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The maceration is long — up to forty days — extracting the tannins, colour, and aromatic compounds necessary for a wine of this stature. No temperature control, no commercial yeasts, no enzymes. After fermentation, the wine is aged in large Slavonian oak casks (botte) for at least two years, where it develops complexity, softens its tannins, and integrates its components. It is then blended and further aged in cement vats for another year, gaining additional depth and harmony. After bottling, it rests for six more months before release.
In the glass, it is delicate ruby with garnet tones of beautiful luminosity — the colour of true, traditional Barolo, not the dark extraction of modern styles. The nose is complex and evolving: abundant, clear notes of raspberry and small red fruits, alongside tobacco, liquorice, and fresh violet. There are hints of tar, rose petal, and the mineral earthiness that speaks of the Tortonian soil beneath the vineyards. The palate is where the magic of Castiglione Falletto fully expresses itself — power perfectly balanced with the elegance of the tannins, delivering a wine of class and harmony. The structure is firm but refined, the acidity vibrant, the finish long and savoury.
This is not a heavy, over-extracted Barolo; it is a wine of finesse, freshness, and Langhe soul — proof that traditional methods, patience, and respect for terroir produce wines of extraordinary longevity and beauty. It will reward 10–20 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, truffle, and dried fruit complexity. Serve at 18°C after decanting, with braised meats, truffle dishes, aged cheeses, or simply on its own as a contemplative red. This is the wine that carries the Fontana family legacy — six generations, one man's rebellion, and an unwavering commitment to "come una volta." ~$70–$110 / ~€65–€100.
The Azienda Agricola Cascina Fontana Range
Mario and Luisa Fontana produce a small, artisanal, traditional portfolio from their approximately 7 hectares of estate vineyards across the most prestigious crus of the Barolo zone. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged with patience in large Slavonian oak casks and used barriques. No refrigerated tanks. Minimal intervention. The portfolio spans the classic wines of Le Langhe — from the everyday Dolcetto to the legendary Barolo. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
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International Retailers and Distributors
United Kingdom: Berry Bros. & Rudd
United States: Flatiron Wines & Spirits
Singapore: Galiena Fine Wines
Italy: Signorvino and Callmewine