I Don't Like the Term Winemaker
Julian Castagna was born Guliano Castagna in Montona, in the province of Trieste, Italy. His parents arrived in Australia in 1951 as refugees with no money, a copper pot for polenta, and a determination to build a new life. [^182^] Julian grew up in Melbourne's western suburbs, went to St Albans High School, and started his career at the ABC as a mail boy — before becoming one of Australia's most successful film directors and producers, running a production house in Sydney with his wife Carolann, a writer. [^182^] Then, at the peak of his career, he stopped. "I was sitting in meetings where they were paying me outrageous amounts of money, but they weren't listening anymore," he recalled. [^189^] He sold the house, sold the apartment, and bought 50 acres of grazing land outside Beechworth in 1996 — an area he had identified as perfect for Syrah, alongside Rick Kinzbrunner's Giaconda. [^182^] They moved into a caravan on the land: "romantic for about five nights till the ants came to visit, the snakes came for a look-see." [^183^] They built the winery and house out of straw-bale, learning everything on the job. The vineyard was planted in 1997. From the very first day, Castagna was biodynamic — the first serious biodynamic vineyard in Australia. [^183^] Today, Julian is a member of Renaissance des Appellations, the invitation-only group founded by Nicolas Joly in 2003, devoted to biodynamics as the pathway to a healthy planet. [^181^] He is Chair of the Biodynamic Association of Australia. His son Adam is the assistant winemaker and has his own label, Adam's Rib. [^181^] The other son, Alexi, is a director of photography in Sydney. [^189^] Julian's philosophy is simple: "I don't like the term winemaker; what I am is a winegrower." [^180^]
From Film Set to Foothills
Julian Castagna's journey from film to wine is one of the most dramatic career changes in Australian history. After sixteen years in the film industry — directing, producing, running his own company in London and Sydney — he reached a point where the work no longer fulfilled him. "I was sitting in meetings where they were paying me outrageous amounts of money, but they weren't listening anymore," he said. "Advertising seemed to have reached a point where the research people were more important than experience and instinct, more important than the art of it." [^189^]
He came home to Carolann and announced he was stopping. "That's really good but what are you going to do?" she asked. "You've got a horse, how about we buy a bit of land and I'll try to make a bit of wine — and we'll travel," he replied. [^189^] They sold everything and bought 50 acres outside Beechworth in 1996. The area was still generally unrecognized, but Julian had identified it as one of two places in Australia capable of making great wine — the other being Margaret River, which he rejected because he didn't want to live in Western Australia. [^183^]
The first year was hard. They lived in a caravan while building the winery and house from straw-bale — "learning everything on the job as they went along." [^183^] The vineyard was planted in 1997 on what was previously grazing land. Five different clones of Syrah were planted, all progeny of the original 1850s stock imported into Australia from the Rhône — "Australia is one of the few places in the world where this old vine stock is still available. We are very fortunate in Australia that these early vines were not affected by phylloxera. This makes the resulting wine very special." [^183^] From day one, the vineyard was farmed biodynamically — not because it was fashionable, but because Julian had a visceral reaction to chemical farming. When an expert told him to spray a product with a skull and crossbones on the label to kill the African black beetle, he refused. "My intention is to make one of the great wines in the world and I'm about to destroy the soil. No way!" [^189^]
"My intention is to make one of the great wines in the world and I'm about to destroy the soil. No way!"
— Julian Castagna
Granitic Loam, Quartz & Clay
The Castagna Vineyard sits at 500 metres altitude, five-and-a-half kilometres outside the historic town of Beechworth in north-east Victoria, high in the foothills of the Australian Alps. [^188^] The soil mainly consists of decomposed granitic loam with a predominance of quartz particles on a base of clay. [^183^] The climate is distinctly continental — hot days and cool nights during the important part of the growing season. [^188^] This is not the warm, generous climate of McLaren Vale or the Barossa. It is a marginal, challenging site that demands patience, skill, and respect.
The vineyard is 5.5 hectares planted on a 19-hectare property. [^183^] The vines are hand-pruned, and the fruit is hand-picked. Cropping is kept at a little less than two tons per acre — low yields for maximum concentration. [^188^] The farming is biodynamic, following Rudolf Steiner's principles, because Julian believes it is the best way to achieve optimum fruit quality that expresses its terroir. [^188^] "Biodynamics allows the minerality that is in this ancient granitic soil to show through in the wine," the winery states. [^183^]
The varieties are a reflection of Julian's Italian heritage and his love of the Old World: Syrah, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Riesling, and Savagnin. [^183^] The Syrah is the flagship — five clones, all from 1850s progeny. The Sangiovese was inspired by Tuscany; Julian planted it after a trip to Italy when he returned to Beechworth and thought, "This is a bit like parts of Tuscany." [^189^] A small amount of Viognier is co-planted with the Syrah, as in Côte Rôtie. The Nebbiolo is a nod to Piedmont. This is not an Australian vineyard trying to be European; it is a European soul finding expression in Australian soil.
High in the foothills of the Australian Alps. Decomposed granitic loam with quartz particles on clay. Continental climate — hot days, cool nights. A marginal, challenging site that produces wines of exceptional concentration and finesse. Hand-pruned, hand-picked, cropped at less than two tons per acre. [^188^]
The first serious biodynamic vineyard in Australia. [^183^] Rudolf Steiner's principles applied from 1997. No synthetic chemicals, no shortcuts. The goal is to build healthy, living soil — "about a billion organisms per gram of soil" — that links the vine to the land's authentic character. [^188^]
Five different clones of Syrah, all progeny of the original 1850s stock imported from the Rhône. [^183^] Sourced from Jones vineyard, Hardy's, Rick Burge's Draycott vineyard, and Best's Victorian vineyard — all early material from Great Western. [^189^] Australia is one of the few places where this old vine stock survives, unaffected by phylloxera.
Sangiovese inspired by Tuscany. Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Syrah with Viognier as in Côte Rôtie. Chardonnay, Roussanne, Chenin Blanc — varieties that reflect Julian's European palate and his belief that Beechworth's climate can produce wines of Old World elegance with New World fruit intensity. [^189^]
Winegrower, Not Winemaker
Julian Castagna rejects the term "winemaker." "I don't like the term winemaker; what I am is a winegrower," he insists. [^180^] This is not semantics; it is the foundation of his entire philosophy. The wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar. The grower's job is to build healthy soil, nurture healthy vines, and harvest healthy fruit. Everything else — fermentation, ageing, bottling — is simply guiding what nature has already provided.
The winemaking is deliberately traditional. Only indigenous yeasts from the vineyard are used. [^188^] Minimal interference is the key to achieving vitality and complexity. Reds are aged 18–20 months in the very best tight-grain French oak, about a third of which is new each year. [^188^] A small portion of each vintage is aged in concrete eggs — Julian was an early and enthusiastic adopter of these vessels, believing they impart "an energetic freshness" to the wines. [^181^] The whites see slightly less oak time. Acid adjustments are not necessary — the cool nights and granitic soils provide natural acidity.
The closure choice reflects Julian's Old World sensibility. Castagna went to DIAM corks in 2003 — "the best solution that we could come up with." [^189^] Prior to that, he was using hand-selected corks costing $1.60–$1.80 each and still losing 5% to taint. Since switching to DIAM, he has not lost one bottle. [^189^] He has no problem with screw-cap technically, but objects to what it represents: "It takes away the theatre, it turns wine into a beverage. It's akin to taking a stroll through a forest as opposed to driving — one is much quicker and easier, but nowhere near as rewarding." [^189^]
Renaissance des Appellations
Julian is a member of Renaissance des Appellations — Return to Terroir — an invitation-only group of biodynamic producers founded by Nicolas Joly in 2003. [^181^] Castagna is one of only five Australian winemakers fully certified by Renaissance, alongside Jasper Hill, Cullen, Ngeringa, and Cobaw Ridge. [^189^] Membership is not bought; it is earned through a commitment to biodynamic principles, terroir expression, and wine quality. The group holds tastings in Bordeaux, New York, San Francisco, Tokyo, London, and Brussels — invitation-only events featuring the top biodynamic wines from a dozen countries. [^182^] Julian has also hosted the first International Biodynamic Wine Forum at La Trobe University in Beechworth (2004), attracting viticulturists from Chile and France. [^182^] This is not just a winery; it is a centre of biodynamic education and advocacy in Australia.
Film Director, Winegrower, Educator
Julian Castagna is a man of multiple identities — all of them authentic. He is the Italian refugee's son who became a film director. The film director who became a winegrower. The winegrower who became a biodynamic educator and advocate. He is Chair of the Biodynamic Association of Australia, a member of Renaissance des Appellations, and a regular speaker at international biodynamic forums. [^182^] [^189^] He travels constantly — "more than I care to at times" — but the travel is in service of a mission: to spread the word about biodynamic viticulture and to prove that Australian wine can stand with the best of Europe. [^182^]
The Castagna identity is also deeply familial. Carolann is the gardener, viticulturist, researcher, and writer. [^182^] Adam is the assistant winemaker and has his own label, Adam's Rib — "The intention with Adam's Rib is to make available, drinkable, affordable wines, but with lots of character." [^185^] Alexi is a director of photography in Sydney, returning to the family's film roots. [^189^] The Castagna household is a working farm, a winery, and a creative hub — lunch is a family affair, vintage is a team effort, and the straw-bale house is both home and symbol of the family's DIY ethos.
The wines themselves are the ultimate expression of this identity. They are not marketed aggressively — Julian prefers to taste with reviewers rather than send samples, which means they are "not reviewed as much these days." [^189^] But the reputation is global. Genesis Syrah has been added to Langton's Classification of Australian Wine — "the accepted indicator of Australian Classed growths." [^188^] The English Financial Times nominated Julian one of the twelve best Australian winemakers. [^188^] The wines are exported to about a dozen countries, available in fine restaurants worldwide, and now sold at Lavinia in Paris — "surely the world's best wine shop." [^188^] This is Daniel in the lion's den — an Australian biodynamic Syrah, sold in the heart of French wine culture. And it is there because the wine is true. "Before a wine can be great, it must first be true," Julian says. [^188^]
"Before a wine can be great, it must first be true."
— Julian Castagna
The Castagna Range
Castagna produces approximately 1,800 dozen bottles per year — about 20,000 bottles — from 5.5 hectares of biodynamic vines. [^181^] [^183^] The portfolio is focused and precise: Genesis Syrah, the flagship; La Chiave Sangiovese; Un Segreto, a Sangiovese-Syrah blend that melds Julian's Italian birth and Australian life; [^181^] and a range of whites including Chardonnay, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, and Riesling. All wines are made with indigenous yeasts, minimal intervention, and aged in the best tight-grain French oak, with a small portion in concrete eggs. [^188^] Prices are approximate and vary by market.