Castello di Stefanago
Antonio & Giacomo Baruffaldi — Lombardy
Castello di Stefanago is a historic and stunning estate located in the Oltrepò Pavese hills of Lombardy. It is a family-run winery, led by the brothers Antonio and Giacomo Baruffaldi. Their journey into natural winemaking is a story of a long-standing family tradition of land stewardship and a deep, philosophical commitment to biodiversity. Their mission is to produce wines that are a direct and honest expression of their unique terroir, with minimal intervention.
A Philosophy of Holistic Farming and Terroir
The Baruffaldi brothers' philosophy is rooted in a belief that the health of the vineyard is paramount. They see their estate not just as a winery, but as a complete ecosystem, a haven for biodiversity where every element supports the other.
Organic & Regenerative Farming: The estate has been certified organic since 2005. They go further, practicing regenerative farming by planting cover crops, encouraging wild growth, and using no synthetic inputs. Sheep graze between the vines, and bees pollinate the flora, creating a vibrant, self-sustaining environment.
Low Intervention: In the cellar, their approach is hands-off. All fermentations are spontaneous with native yeasts, and they use no fining or filtration.
Minimal Sulfur: They work with minimal or no added sulfur dioxide (SO2), ensuring a pure and unadulterated expression of the fruit.
The Vineyards and Terroir
The vineyards surround a 1,000-year-old castle, perched at 500 meters above sea level, offering a unique and privileged terroir.
Location: The estate is in Fortunago, in the Oltrepò Pavese hills of Lombardy.
Vineyard Area: The domaine covers 20 hectares of vineyards, nestled within 135 hectares of meadows, forests, and orchards.
Grape Varieties: They work almost exclusively with native varieties like Croatina, Barbera, Uva Rara, and Riesling (especially the local clone, Riesling Italico). They also have small plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for their sparkling wines.
Soils & Climate: The terroir is a mix of clay and limestone soils. The high altitude and wide diurnal temperature shifts help preserve acidity and freshness, which is crucial for their wines.
Winemaking and Process
The winemaking at Castello di Stefanago is a careful and intuitive process, with no single "recipe" for all their wines.
Harvest: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested.
Vinification: They use a variety of vessels, including cement, old wood, and amphorae. Each cuvée is allowed to find its own pace and unique expression.
Sparkling Wines: Their sparkling wines, fermented in the ancestral method (Pet-Nat), are a particular point of pride. They are bottled during fermentation and remain on their lees, resulting in rustic, expressive, and vibrant wines.
Macerated Whites: They also produce remarkable long-macerated white wines that showcase the complexity and texture that can be achieved with extended skin contact.
Signature Wines to Discover
The wines of Castello di Stefanago are known for their strong sense of place, their texture, and their often surprising personalities.
Mischiabacche: A red blend that showcases the harmony of their native grapes.
Talpaca: A vibrant and unique sparkling wine.
San Rocco Riesling: A single-vineyard Riesling that highlights the grape's purity and minerality.
Ancestrale: Their signature sparkling wine, made in the ancestral method, known for its vitality and finesse.
Address & Contact
Castello di Stefanago is a working winery and a private home. Visits are by appointment only.
Address: Località Castello, 27040 Fortunago (PV), Italy.