A Castle in the Clouds, Wine in the Wild
Castello di Stefanago is one of Lombardy's most exciting natural wine estates — a family-run winery set within a 14th-century castle perched at 500 metres above sea level in the Oltrepò Pavese hills, near Fortunago. Surrounding the castle sprawl 18 hectares of vineyards within a larger 135-hectare estate of meadows, forests, orchards, and arable land — a highly biodiverse ecosystem where woods, meadows, and vines coexist in harmony. Run by brothers Antonio and Giacomo Baruffaldi, the estate has been dedicated to organic farming for generations, producing wines that authentically express the time, terroir, and tradition of this unique corner of northern Italy. The brothers don't follow formulas — they listen to each vintage, building a tailored plan each year to bring out the best in what nature offers. Their sparkling wines, made using the ancestral method, spend years on the lees with native yeasts before disgorgement, resulting in deep, expressive wines where vintage and time harmonise naturally. The Stüvenagh collection — young, bold, and eccentric — includes pét-nat, PIWI, ancestral, and orange wines, representing the stylistic hallmark of a way of understanding wine and nature as a whole. This is not merely winemaking; it is a collaboration with nature, grounded in observation and timing, where each vintage is unique and every bottle tells the story of a living landscape.
From Medieval Castle to Natural Wine Haven
The story of Castello di Stefanago begins not in a modern winery, but in a medieval castle — a 14th-century fortress perched at 500 metres above sea level in the Oltrepò Pavese hills, near the village of Fortunago in Lombardy. The castle, which still stands at the centre of the property, brings to mind everything we have read about the violent passions and refined cruelties that make medieval Italy dark and fascinating — but today it has a beating heart, with activities projected into the future in a successful attempt to perpetuate history and the vocation for the drink of Bacchus. For generations, the Baruffaldi family has cultivated the land around this ancient stronghold, transforming a historical monument into a living, breathing agricultural organism.
The estate is located in the Oltrepò Pavese, a hilly zone south of the Po River in the province of Pavia, Lombardy. The vineyards sit between 320 and 470 metres above sea level, on clay, sand, and silty soils that provide both structure and freshness. The altitude, the wide diurnal temperature shifts, and the constant wind help preserve acidity and freshness — especially important for the estate's signature ancestral method sparkling wines and long-macerated whites. This is a landscape of rolling hills, ancient woodlands, and pristine meadows — a terroir that demands patience and respect from its winemakers.
Today, the estate is run by brothers Antonio and Giacomo Baruffaldi, who have inherited generations of experience and passion for the land. They have long followed organic farming, striving to achieve healthy, natural grapes that reflect the terroir on which they are grown. The estate is certified organic, but the brothers go further — planting cover crops, encouraging wild growth, using no synthetic inputs, and creating a haven for biodiversity. Sheep graze between the vines, bees pollinate the flora, and over 80 bee families thrive on the estate, producing wildflower honey and supporting the ecosystem. Every action is designed to support long-term vitality — not just of the vines, but of the entire landscape.
In recent years, the estate has become a hub for the natural wine community in northern Italy. For several years now, Stefanago Castle has hosted Natural Wines Oltrepo & Friends in May — an event born from an idea by Jacopo Baruffaldi that brings together natural, artisanal, and biodynamic producers from Oltrepò Pavese and their "friends" from all over Italy. The festival has become a reference point for the region's natural wine movement, cementing Castello di Stefanago's role not just as a producer, but as a convener and catalyst for change.
"At Stefanago, we don't follow formulas, we listen to each vintage. Our method is based on understanding the rhythm of nature and letting each harvest express itself fully."
— Castello di Stefanago
Clay, Sand & Silt, Organic & Biodiverse
Castello di Stefanago's vineyards are situated in the Oltrepò Pavese hills, between 320 and 470 metres above sea level, surrounding the 14th-century castle at the heart of the property. The soils are a mix of clay, sand, and silty soils — a complex mosaic that provides both structure and freshness. The clay retains moisture and imparts body and depth to the wines. The sand ensures good drainage and contributes a subtle, grainy texture. The silt adds finesse and mineral complexity. Together, these soils create wines of remarkable balance, particularly for the Pinot Nero and white varieties that thrive in this cool, windy terroir.
The climate is continental with Alpine influences. The altitude provides wide diurnal temperature shifts — warm days for ripening, cool nights for preserving acidity. The constant wind that sweeps across the hills reduces humidity and disease pressure, while also thickening the grape skins and concentrating flavours. This is not the hot, humid climate of the Po Valley plains; it is a cool, challenging terroir that produces wines of elegance and freshness rather than power and extraction.
Farming is organic certified, with a deep commitment to sustainability and biodiversity. The estate uses no synthetic pesticides or herbicides. Instead, the vineyards are part of a carefully balanced landscape where woods, meadows, and vines coexist in harmony. Cover crops grow between the rows, sheep graze in the vineyards, and over 80 bee families produce wildflower honey while pollinating the flora. Rainwater is collected from all roofs on the estate, while runoff from hillsides, roads, and streams is stored in ponds in the lower valleys — conserving and reusing one of nature's most precious resources. All of Stefanago's electricity needs are met by a solar energy system. Packaging is minimised with lightweight bottles and labels made with up to 50% natural dried grass fibers.
The varieties reflect both the Oltrepò tradition and the brothers' experimental spirit. Pinot Nero is the star — grown at altitude on limestone-rich soils, it produces wines of extraordinary delicacy and depth. Croatina (Bonarda), Barbera, and Uva Rara provide the backbone for the red blends. Riesling Renano, Pinot Grigio, Müller-Thurgau, and Chardonnay contribute freshness and aromatic complexity to the whites. The Stüvenagh collection pushes boundaries further with PIWI varieties (fungus-resistant hybrids), pét-nats, and orange wines — a bold, eccentric expression of the estate's innovative spirit.
Clay retains moisture, imparts body and depth. Sand ensures drainage, contributes grainy texture. Silt adds finesse and mineral complexity. The complex mosaic of Oltrepò Pavese — balance and freshness in every bottle.
320–470m altitude. Wide diurnal shifts — warm days, cool nights. Constant wind reduces humidity, thickens skins. Cool, challenging terroir. Elegance and freshness over power. The climate that defines Oltrepò's finest wines.
Organic certified. No synthetics. Cover crops, sheep grazing, 80+ bee families. Rainwater collection, pond storage. Solar energy for all electricity. Lightweight bottles, grass-fiber labels. Sustainability as philosophy, not marketing.
Pinot Nero, Croatina, Barbera, Uva Rara, Merlot (reds). Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay (whites). Stüvenagh collection: PIWI, pét-nat, orange, ancestral. Tradition meets experimentation. The full spectrum of Oltrepò.
Ancestral Method, Indigenous Yeasts & Tailored Vintage Plans
At Castello di Stefanago, the cellar philosophy is one of collaboration with nature — not domination. The Baruffaldi brothers don't follow formulas; they listen to each vintage, understanding the rhythm of nature and letting each harvest express itself fully. Timing is essential, especially in the hand-harvesting of grapes. Every year, they build a tailored plan to bring out the best in what nature offers, resulting in wines that vary subtly each year — because that variability is the essence of natural winemaking.
The techniques are precise and demanding:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are hand-harvested at the appropriate level of maturity, with careful attention to the natural inclinations of each must. The brothers monitor each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, acidity, and aromatic complexity align. Harvest is a family and community affair — friends, visitors, and the local natural wine community often join in.
Whites: Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Müller-Thurgau, and Chardonnay are gently pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in a combination of stainless steel and barrels of various woods and sizes. The brothers keep in mind the natural evolution of each cuvée, using vessels that complement rather than mask the grape's character. Some whites see extended lees contact for texture; others are bottled young for freshness.
Reds: Pinot Nero, Croatina, Barbera, and Uva Rara are fermented with indigenous yeasts in steel tanks or barrels. Maceration times vary by variety and vintage — Pinot Nero sees gentle extraction to preserve its delicate aromatics, while Croatina and Barbera can handle longer skin contact for structure and colour. The Provincia di Pavia Rosso spends 15 days macerating in steel tanks with ambient yeasts, followed by fermentation and five months of ageing in steel — unfined and unfiltered.
Ancestral Method Sparkling: The estate's great trump card is its sparkling wines, all fermented according to the metodo ancestrale. These wines spend years on the lees with native yeasts before disgorgement, resulting in deep, expressive wines where vintage and time harmonise naturally. The bubbles are soft, integrated, and alive — not the aggressive fizz of industrial methods, but the gentle effervescence of natural fermentation.
Stüvenagh Collection: The young, bold, and eccentric side of Castello di Stefanago. This collection includes pét-nat (pétillant naturel), PIWI wines (from fungus-resistant hybrid varieties), ancestral method sparklers, and orange wines (long-macerated whites). These are wines that push boundaries, challenge expectations, and express the brothers' experimental spirit — without losing sight of terroir and authenticity.
Bottling: Wines are bottled without fining or filtration when possible, capturing the living, evolving character of the wine. The focus is on preserving the natural qualities of the fruit — some wines are fresh and easy-drinking, enjoyable soon after bottling; others are more structured and evolve through long refinement.
The portfolio spans the full range of the estate's production — from elegant still wines to wild sparkling expressions:
"Campo Castagna" Pinot Nero: The estate's purest expression of Pinot Nero. Grown at altitude on limestone-rich soils, fermented with native yeasts and aged in neutral oak. Delicate yet deep, with notes of red cherry, crushed rose, forest herbs, and spice. Elegant, wild, and whisperingly complex — Pinot with a distinctly Lombard identity.
"Provincia di Pavia Rosso": A blend of 40% Uva Rara, 40% Croatina, 10% Barbera, and 10% Merlot. Harvested by hand in September and October, macerated for 15 days in steel tanks with ambient yeasts, then fermented and aged for five months in steel — unfined and unfiltered. Fresh, fruity, and utterly drinkable — the friendly red of Oltrepò.
"Stüvenagh Orangiosaurus": An orange wine from the Stüvenagh collection — likely a long-macerated white (possibly Cortese or Pinot Grigio) with extended skin contact. Bold, eccentric, and full of texture. The wild side of Castello di Stefanago, pushing boundaries while remaining rooted in terroir.
"Stüvenagh" Pét-Nat: A pétillant naturel from the Stüvenagh collection — bottled before primary fermentation is complete, trapping natural bubbles. Fresh, youthful, and vibrant. The playful, untamed expression of Oltrepò's natural wine spirit.
"Stüvenagh" Ancestral Sparkling: An ancestral method sparkler from the Stüvenagh collection — years on lees with native yeasts, deep and expressive. The serious side of the estate's sparkling range, where vintage and time harmonise naturally.
"Stüvenagh" PIWI: A wine from fungus-resistant hybrid varieties (PIWI) — part of the estate's experimentation with sustainable viticulture. Bold, distinctive, and full of character. The innovative side of Castello di Stefanago.
"Campo Castagna" — "Red Cherry, Crushed Rose & Forest Herbs at 500 Metres"
The "Campo Castagna" is Castello di Stefanago's most celebrated red — a pure Pinot Nero from high-altitude, limestone-rich soils that demonstrates what happens when organic farming, indigenous yeasts, neutral oak, and meticulous attention to detail converge in a single bottle. This is the wine that has made the estate a reference point for natural Pinot Nero in Italy — a variety that is notoriously difficult to grow well, but which thrives in the cool, windy terroir of the Oltrepò Pavese hills.
The grapes come from the Campo Castagna vineyard — one of the estate's highest parcels, at around 500 metres above sea level, on limestone-rich clay and sand soils. The Pinot Nero vines are hand-tended throughout the year, with organic practices ensuring healthy, concentrated fruit. The altitude and the constant wind create ideal conditions for Pinot Nero — cool nights preserve acidity, while warm days allow for full phenolic ripeness without excessive sugar accumulation. The result is grapes of extraordinary delicacy and complexity.
The grapes are hand-harvested at optimal maturity and gently destemmed. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in open-top fermenters — no commercial strains, no temperature control, no enzymes. The maceration is gentle, with manual punch-downs to extract colour and tannin without bruising the delicate Pinot Nero berries. After fermentation, the wine is transferred to neutral oak barrels — old, large vessels that provide gentle oxygenation without adding wood flavour. The ageing period is moderate, preserving the wine's freshness and primary fruit character while allowing it to develop complexity and texture.
In the glass, it is pale to medium ruby with a luminous, almost translucent rim — the colour of true Pinot Nero, not the dark extraction of imitation. The nose is delicate yet deep — an intoxicating weave of red cherry, crushed rose petals, forest herbs, and a hint of spice. There are notes of wild strawberry, dried thyme, and a distinct mineral undertone that speaks of the limestone beneath the vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant, with silky tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savoury finish that invites another sip. This is not a heavy, extracted red; it is a wine of finesse, freshness, and Alpine-Lombard soul — proof that Pinot Nero can find a home in the hills of Oltrepò when grown with care and made with minimal intervention. It drinks beautifully young, slightly chilled at 14–16°C, but will reward 3–5 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, truffle, and forest-floor complexity. Serve with roasted duck, wild mushroom pasta, or simply on its own as a contemplative red. ~$28–$40 / ~€25–€35.
The Castello di Stefanago Range
Antonio and Giacomo Baruffaldi produce an artisanal, organic portfolio from their 18 hectares of certified organic vineyards within a 135-hectare biodiverse estate in Fortunago, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy. All wines are hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, and bottled with minimal intervention. The portfolio spans elegant still wines, ancestral method sparklers, and the bold Stüvenagh collection — pét-nat, PIWI, orange, and ancestral wines. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
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Rivenditori
Sito ufficiale Castello di Stefanago: https://www.castellodistefanago.it/it
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Enoteca Terruli: https://enotecaterruli.it/produttore/castello-di-stefanago/
Callmewine: https://www.callmewine.com/en/winery/castello-di-stefanago-B1283.htm
The Wine Collective: https://www.thewinecollective.com.au/collections/castello-di-stefanago
RAW WINE: https://www.rawwine.com/profile/castello-di-stefanago
MYSA Natural Wine: https://mysa.wine/collections/castello-di-stefanago