Cé Des Cailloux

helmed by French-born winemaker Jacques Mathieu, is a hidden gem in Sonoma County, California. As an ex-pat and former architect, Mathieu brings a unique, "Old World" sensibility to his winemaking, viewing the vineyard as a living, organic extension of himself. The name "Cé Des Cailloux" is a play on the famed "Clos des Cailloux" in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and it is a clear nod to his Rhône Valley inspiration. His technical approach is a beautiful blend of traditional French principles and a staunch commitment to natural winemaking.

Terroir: The Sonoma Mountain Advantage

The heart of Cé Des Cailloux is its small, estate vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, a unique and demanding site that is central to Mathieu's winemaking philosophy.

  • Mountainous Terrain and Varied Exposure: The vineyard is planted on a hillside, with the vines carefully positioned to take advantage of different exposures. This allows for a variety of Rhône grapes—like Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre—to ripen at roughly the same time, a crucial element for his signature co-fermented field blend.

  • Organic and Regenerative Farming: Mathieu is deeply committed to organic and regenerative agricultural practices. He avoids synthetic chemicals and instead focuses on building soil health through the use of green manure, compost, and other organic fertilizers. He has learned to farm organically from the ground up, with the help of mentors in the natural wine world.

  • Low Yields and "Self-Sufficient" Vines: His goal is to make the vines as self-sufficient as possible. While he uses a limited amount of irrigation from early June to mid-August, he manages the canopy and green-crops the vines to consistently yield about four tons per acre. This low yield concentrates flavors and results in powerful, structured wines.

Winemaking: A Natural, "Hands-Off" Approach

In the cellar, Jacques Mathieu’s philosophy is simple: the wine is made in the vineyard, and his job is to not "mess it up." His approach is defined by what he doesn't do, and a deep trust in the natural process.

  • Field Blending and Co-Fermentation: The estate wine is a true field blend, planted with a mix of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise, and a small percentage of Zinfandel and white Rhône varietals. By planting and harvesting these grapes together, they are able to be co-fermented, a traditional practice that results in a more integrated, complex wine.

  • Native Yeast Fermentation: All of the wines at Cé Des Cailloux are fermented using the wild, indigenous yeasts present on the grapes. This spontaneous fermentation is a key part of his commitment to producing wines that are a pure expression of the soil, climate, and fruit.

  • No Additions or Filtration: Mathieu's wines are made with "nothing added, nothing removed." This means there is no added sulfur (with a goal of less than 10 mg/L total sulfur), no temperature control during fermentation, and no filtration. This hands-off approach preserves the wine's raw character, color, and texture, resulting in a powerful and authentic expression of the terroir.

  • Minimalist Cellar: The winemaking is done with minimal equipment and intervention. The goal is to get as much flavor as possible from the high-quality fruit, without the use of technology or additives. This results in wines that are not only structured and intense but also have a finesse and balanced acidity that makes them exceptionally food-friendly.

Cé Des Cailloux is a powerful example of a winemaker who has translated an Old World philosophy into a new environment. By dedicating himself to organic farming and a radical, low-intervention approach in the cellar, Jacques Mathieu is crafting a singular and profound expression of Sonoma Mountain terroir.