Celler del RourePablo Calatayud
From furniture makers to amphora alchemists. 300-year-old underground cellars and the revival of Mandó—rescuing Valencia's forgotten grapes from extinction.
From modern minimalism to ancient clay—how a furniture family discovered 97 buried amphorae and changed Valencia wine forever.
In 1996, Pablo Calatayud and his father launched Celler del Roure with no prior wine experience—the family had worked in the furniture industry. After completing his agronomy studies, Pablo was determined to grow vines in his homeland of Moixent, in the Clariano sub-region of Valencia.
They began conventionally: modern stainless steel tanks, new French oak barrels, and international varieties like Tempranillo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines found success, but Pablo felt something was missing. As he traveled and gained experience, he realized they were heading down the wrong path.
In 2006, the family purchased an estate with 40 hectares that included an ancient underground cellar. Excavated 300 years ago and abandoned in the 1930s, they discovered 97 buried amphorae (tinajas) ranging from 600 to 2,800 liters—lined with stone channels carved into bedrock for gravity flow. Where others saw a museum piece, Pablo saw an opportunity. This discovery coincided with his obsession to save Mandó, a nearly extinct indigenous grape he found being used by a local farmer for homemade wine. The combination changed everything.
"The key is picking early"—proving that Mandó and ancient clay can create fresh, elegant wines in Spain's scorching heat.
Pablo Calatayud has become the foremost champion of Mandó, a native Valencian grape that was on the verge of extinction. Unlike Monastrell, which can become alcoholic and ponderous in the hot Valencia climate, Mandó retains acidity and freshness when picked early. This discovery revolutionized their approach.
The winery now operates two distinct lines: Vins Clàssics (modern cellar, oak aging) and Vins Antics (ancient cellar, amphora aging). The amphorae are lined only with tartaric acid and buried underground, creating a unique microclimate that preserves fruit purity without adding oxidative character.
Beyond Mandó, Pablo has rescued Arcos and Forcallà (reds) and Verdil (white) from obscurity. His philosophy is simple: indigenous varieties, organic farming, spontaneous fermentation, and increasing use of whole clusters. "We are like a tree," he says, "roots bound to clay and stones, branches dreamers like leaves in the air."
Modern Vision
La Toscana Valenciana at 600 meters. Clay, limestone, and the indigenous varieties that survived phylloxera.
Sub-region
The southernmost and highest-quality subzone of Valencia DO, nicknamed "La Toscana Valenciana" for its rolling hills. Located near the ruined Moorish castle of Moixent and the ancient Iberian settlement of Les Alcusses.
Stone
Soil
Various clay types—from fine alluvial and loamy soils to rockier limestone terroirs. Poor in organic matter, forcing vines to dig deep. The combination provides both water retention and drainage in this arid climate.
Vine Age
Bush-trained vines ranging from 15 to 70+ years old. Many survived phylloxera and the 20th-century shift to bulk wine production. Hand-harvested into small crates to preserve berry integrity.
From the buried amphorae of the Bodega Fonda to modern cellars—two distinct lineages, one indigenous vision.
Cullerot
"Tadpole" in Valencian. A complex blend of Macabeo, Verdil, Malvasía, Pedro Ximénez, Tortosí, and Merseguera from 50-70 year old vines. Aged in buried tinajas. Ripe tangerines, sweet spice, and a creamy mouthfeel that defies its amphora aging.
Safrà
Named after saffron, the prized local spice. A blend of 70% Mandó and 30% Arcos. Fermented in stone lagars and aged in amphorae. Shows the mandarin and herbal freshness that Mandó provides when picked early. The gateway to Pablo's amphora revolution.
Parotet
"Dragonfly"—the symbol of the Vins Antics line. 70% Arcos and 30% Mandó, inverted from Safrà. The Arcos provides lively, energetic punch and wild herb notes. Fermented with whole clusters and aged in buried amphorae. Deeper, more structured, distinctly Mediterranean.
Vermell
Recently reimagined—formerly a Garnacha Tintorera blend, now (2023+) 70% Mandó and 30% Arcos. This shift epitomizes the winery's evolution from international to indigenous. Fresh, juicy, immediate, and meant for daily drinking.
Maduresa
The original prestige cuvée that put Roure on the map. 80% Monastrell, 10% Mandó, 10% Cariñena from 20-40 year old vines. Aged in French oak and foudres. The wine that proved Valencia could produce world-class reds—rich but refined, powerful but fresh.
Les Alcusses
Named after the nearby ancient Iberian settlement. Predominantly Monastrell with touches of Garnacha Tintorera, Syrah, and Petit Verdot. The "classic" style—Mediterranean warmth with modern polish. Their most widely distributed wine (~100,000 bottles).
Ferrero i Senís La Pebrella
The top amphora cuvée, named in honor of the winery's heritage. Arcos and Forcallà from chalky subsoil plots. Whole clusters fermented in the ancient stone presses of the original winery, then aged in tinajas and glass demijohns. The pinnacle of Pablo's ancestral revival.
Les Filles d'Amàlia
Named after Pablo's mother. Direct-pressed Mandó picked just at ripeness, resulting in pale salmon color, haunting aromas of roses and orange peel, and delicate red fruit. Available as both still wine (Les Prunes) and pét-nat (Les Danses)—proving Mandó's versatility.
Guardian of Mandó
Celler del Roure stands as the single most important force in rescuing Valencia's indigenous wine heritage. When Pablo started, Mandó was nearly extinct, used only by old farmers for house wine. Today, thanks to his advocacy, it is recognized as one of Spain's most exciting indigenous varieties—capable of producing fresh, elegant reds in a climate that should make such wines impossible.
The underground cellar—300 years old, abandoned during the Spanish Civil War, reborn in 2008—serves as both a working winery and a symbol. It represents a bridge between the ancient Iberian viticulture of Les Alcusses and the modern natural wine movement. In Pablo's own words: "Having sought out indigenous varieties, how could I not also champion indigenous viniculture?"
- Pioneer of quality Clariano wines
- Rescued Mandó from extinction
- Revived 300-year-old underground cellar
- Champion of buried amphora (tinaja) aging
- Champion of indigenous Valencia varieties
- Influenced natural wine movement in Spain