Chile.

ITATA'S OLD VINES & THE SECANO INTERIOR

From the ancient bush vines of Itata to the coastal hills of the Secano Interior, discover how Chilean natural winemakers are revolutionizing South American wine with 200-year-old País, dry-farmed Carignan, and zero-intervention field blends

Chile Natural Wine Guide: From Itata's Old Vines to the Secano Interior | País, Carignan & The Dry-Farmed Revolution

Itata's Old Vines & The Secano Interior

Chile

From the ancient bush vines of Itata to the coastal hills of the Secano Interior, discover how Chilean natural winemakers are revolutionizing South American wine with 200-year-old País, dry-farmed Carignan, and zero-intervention field blends

País Carignan Cinsault Dry Farmed Bush Vines Secano Interior

130k Hectares Under Vine

80% Sustainability Certified

17,653 Dry-Farmed Hectares

1551 First Harvest

The New World Meets Ancient Vines

Where pre-industrial viticulture meets natural winemaking

Chile—long known for its consistent, commercial wines—is experiencing a natural wine revolution that is reshaping its entire wine identity. At the heart of this transformation are the Secano Interior regions of Itata, Maule, and Bio Bio, where 200-year-old bush vines of País, Carignan, and Cinsault grow dry-farmed on decomposed granite hillsides, farmed by horse and plow as they have been for centuries.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Chilean natural wine—producers who abandoned the industrial Central Valley to seek out these forgotten vineyards. Louis-Antoine Luyt, a Frenchman, sparked the movement by proving that País could make noble wine. Pedro Parra, a soil scientist, proved Itata's granitic terroir could rival Burgundy. Leo Erazo works with 100+ year-old vines to create field blends of stunning purity.

What unites them is a commitment to dry farming (no irrigation), bush vines (gobelet training), and minimal intervention in the cellar. These wines—often 11-12.5% alcohol, with bright acidity and wild herb aromatics—represent a Chile that is ancient, rural, and utterly distinct from the supermarket brands the world has known.

Key Facts

Location: South America, Pacific Coast, 30-38°S
History: 470+ years (Spanish colonization)
Key Regions: Itata, Maule, Bio Bio, Casablanca
Main Grapes: País, Carignan, Cinsault, Semillon
Method: Dry farmed, bush vines, native yeast
Style: Low alcohol, high acid, herbal, fresh
Notable: 15,000+ hectares of bush vines

From Spanish Missions to the Natural Revolution

470 years of Chilean wine evolution

1551

The First Harvest

Spanish conquistadors bring Listán Prieto (known as País in Chile, Mission in California) from the Canary Islands. The first documented harvest occurs. País becomes the dominant grape for the next 400 years, planted throughout the Central Valley for domestic consumption and church wine.

1831

French Influence

Claudio Gay introduces French grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère, Sauvignon Blanc—to Chile. The elite embrace Bordeaux varieties, but País remains the people's grape in the south. By 1910, Chile has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 85% País.

1939

The Earthquake & New Varieties

A devastating earthquake in the south leads the government to introduce new varieties to help reconstruction. Carignan and Cinsault arrive in Maule and Itata, joining País to create field blends. These varieties thrive in the dry-farmed conditions of the Secano Interior.

2000s

The Natural Awakening

Louis-Antoine Luyt, a French winemaker, arrives in Chile and is shocked to find 200-year-old País vines abandoned. He begins buying grapes from small farmers in Itata and Maule, vinifying with natural yeast and minimal sulfur. Proves to the world that País can make elegant, complex wine.

2010

Marcel Lapierre Discovers Itata

Marcel Lapierre, the legendary Beaujolais natural winemaker, visits Itata to advise a local producer. His US importer (Dressner Selections) becomes interested, opening the door for Itata wines to enter the natural wine markets of New York and Europe. "The first day of the rest of Itata's days."

2014-Present

The Renaissance

Pedro Parra (soil scientist) establishes his winery in Itata, proving the region's granitic terroir. Leo Erazo launches Rogue Vine. VIGNO (Vignadores de Carignan) and ALMAULE associations form to protect old vines. Brooklyn wine lists can't keep País in stock. Chilean natural wine becomes a global phenomenon.

"There probably aren't purer, more natural vineyards in the world than these. They simply don't exist. The vineyards are naturally organic." — Pedro Parra, on Itata's dry-farmed bush vines

Granite, Sand & The Secano Interior

The terroirs of dry-farmed Chile

🌊 Itata Valley

Chile's oldest wine region (founded 1551), 500km south of Santiago. Coastal influence from just 18km away. Decomposed granite (granitic sand) soils on rolling hills. 4,252 hectares under vine, mostly dry-farmed bush vines. 100+ year-old vineyards of Cinsault, País, and Moscatel. Cold, rainy winters; dry summers. Home to Rogue Vine, Pedro Parra, and Vinos Mingaco.

🏔️ Maule Valley

Chile's largest wine valley, divided into three sectors. The Secano Interior (interior dryland) has 19,000 hectares of vines, mostly dry-farmed. Ancient Carignan vines (60-100+ years) planted in 1939 after earthquake. Red clay and granitic soils. VIGNO association protects old vine Carignan. Also home to País and mixed field blends. Bouchon Family Wines operates here.

🌿 Bio Bio Valley

Southern extreme of Chilean viticulture (650km from Santiago). Volatile weather, cool climate, high rainfall. Frontier for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and experimental varieties. But also home to old vine País and Cinsault. Rogue Vine sources from here. Cooler than Itata and Maule, producing wines of tense acidity.

🏔️ Casablanca Valley

Cool coastal valley between Santiago and the sea. Oceanic influence creates morning fog. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc thrive here. Some natural wine producers (Emiliana) focus on organic and biodynamic methods here. Different from the dry south—cool climate, higher humidity.

🏔️ Maipo Valley

The historic heart of Chilean wine, near Santiago. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère country. Some natural wine producers (like Garage Wine Co) are exploring old vine sites here, but most natural wine action is in the south. Alluvial soils, Andes influence.

🌾 Secano Interior

Not a valley but a category: the "dry interior" where no irrigation exists. 17,653 hectares total across Itata (8,460 ha), Maule (7,323 ha), and Bio Bio (1,093 ha). Decomposed granite, schist, and sandy soils. Bush vines (gobelet) trained low to ground. Horses plow between vines. Minimal disease pressure due to wind and dry summers. The natural wine heartland.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Itata	Cool coastal, rainy winter	Decomposed granite	Fresh, mineral, low alcohol
Maule	Continental, dry	Red clay, granite	Structured, herbal, complex
Bio Bio	Cool, volatile	Granite, volcanic	Tense, acidic, elegant
Secano	Dry, windy	Sand, granite	Pure, rustic, ancient
Coastal	Oceanic, foggy	Calcareous, clay	Saline, fresh, crisp

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining Chilean natural wine

Itata Valley – The Heartland

Pedro Parra

Pedro Parra y Familia, Guarilihue, Itata

World-renowned soil scientist (terroir consultant) turned vigneron. Founded 2011. 40,000 bottles annually from 11 labels. Works with Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru classifications inspired by Burgundy. Owns vineyards and long-term leases on 78% of production. Organic (not certified—"I don't believe in certificates"). Native yeast, whole cluster fermentation, concrete and oak aging. "Probably the purest, most natural vineyards in the world." Focuses on País, Cinsault, and field blends from granitic soils 18km from ocean.

Soil Scientist Grand Cru Granite Purist

Leo Erazo & Justin Decker

Rogue Vine, Guarilihue & Nipas, Itata

Leo Erazo (Chilean winemaker also at Altos Las Hormigas in Argentina) and American partner Justin Decker. "Garage winery" in Concepción making wines from Itata's hills. Sourced from small local producers in Guarilihue and Las Nipas—100+ year-old bush vines on decomposed granite, dry-farmed, organic by default. "Pipeño" line (Tinto and Blanco) are field blends fermented in concrete globes. Also "Grand Itata" and "Super Itata" single-vineyard wines. Minimal intervention, native yeast, old barrels. Bringing Itata back like South Africa did with Swartland.

Field Blend Concrete Globes Garage Wine Old Vines

Daniela & Pablo Padredos

Vinos Mingaco, Guarilihue, Itata

No-till, regenerative farming—neighbors call them "lazy" for not tilling soil between vines. "Moscatel de Tinaja" is legendary: 4-5 months skin contact in amphora, no added sulfites, from 12-year and 7-year regenerative farm sections. Only 100 bottles produced. Also "Mezcla Tinta" (País/Cinsault co-ferment). Focus on ancestral methods, amphora aging, extreme minimalism. "The land tells us what it needs."

No-Till Amphora Zero Sulfur Regenerative

Alice Lestrange

Strange Grapes, Guarilihue, Itata

Australian winemaker moved to Itata in 2019 after working harvest there. Makes "Pipeño Pastiche" (Moscatel/Chasselas) with partial skin contact and carbonic maceration. Supports growers transitioning to less intervention. "Itata is full of glyphosate and over-tillage"—she works with three growers who are genuinely chemical-free. Focus on lifting the veil on honest farming. Low intervention, experimental techniques.

Australian Experimental Carbonic Chasselas

Pino Roman

Guarilihue, Itata

Ignacio Pino came to Itata in 2018 after experience in Portugal, New Zealand, and California. Works with Chasselas and País from cool coastal sites. Chasselas sees 30% whole bunch, 3 months skin contact in tinajas (amphorae), then stainless steel. País is 50% whole bunch, 20% saignée (bleeding) for concentration, no punchdowns (infusion only), 25ppm sulfites at bottling only. Focus on elegance, freshness, and "infusion" rather than extraction.

Tinajas Chasselas Infusion Low Sulfur

Maule & The South – Carignan & País Masters

Louis-Antoine Luyt

Multiple sites, Maule & Itata

The Frenchman who started it all. Moved to Chile and was shocked to find 200-year-old País vines being ripped out. Began vinifying small lots with natural yeast, no temperature control, minimal sulfur. Showed the world that País could be elegant, not just rustic. "Pipeño" tradition (field blend fermented in pipas/ráculas). Works with small farmers throughout Maule and Itata. Mentored many younger producers. The godfather of Chilean natural wine.

The Pioneer French Pipeño Mentor

Derek Mossman Knapp

Garage Wine Co, Maule

Canadian-Chilean founding member of VIGNO (Vignadores de Carignan). "Revival" project saved old vine Carignan from extinction. "País Salvaje"—wine made from wild País vines growing in trees (harvested by ladder). Field blends, dry farming, traditional zaranda (basket) destemming. Old vine concentration and complexity. "Truquilemu" Carignan is a benchmark—single vineyard, 60+ year vines.

VIGNO Carignan Wild Vines Old Vine

Julio Bouchon Jr.

Bouchon Family Wines, Maule

Fourth-generation family winery in Maule. Champions País—planting new País vines to understand the variety throughout its lifespan. "País Salvaje" (wild vines in trees), "País Viejo" (old vines), and new País plantings. Also makes "Glup!" wines with friend David Nieuwoudt—juicy Cinsault from Itata, País from Bio Bio. Organic viticulture, traditional methods, focus on Chile's heritage varieties.

País Specialist 4th Generation Glup! Heritage

Felipe Cartes

Clos des Fous, Cauquenes, Maule

Winemaker since 2020 for Clos des Fous ("Clos of Fools"—so named because they were told grapes wouldn't ripen in their extreme terroirs). Founded 2009 by Pedro Parra, François Massoc, Albert Cussen, and Paco Leyton. Focus on terroir-driven wines from Itata, Maule, Bio Bio, Malleco. "Cauquenina" is the flagship—field blend of Carignan, País, Portugais Bleu, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Malbec, Cinsault from Maule. Dry farming, minimal intervention, long fermentations with native yeast, aging on lees.

Field Blend Cauquenina Multi-Region Terroir

Emerging Voices – The New Generation

Josefa & team

Gabino, Maule

Small producer focused on old vine Carignan. Making waves with traditional methods and dry-farmed vineyards. Part of the VIGNO association. Natural fermentation, minimal sulfur, concrete aging. Representing the new wave of small producers reclaiming Maule's heritage.

Carignan VIGNO Concrete Emerging

Pablo Morandé

Mingaco (solo project), Itata

Part of the Vinos Mingaco collective but also making solo wines. Focuses on traditional Itata varieties—Cinsault, País, Moscatel. Old vine specialists, working with dry-farmed bush vines on granite. Minimal intervention, native yeast, respectful of the pre-industrial viticulture that defines the region.

Cinsault Traditional Granite Itata

Ronald Vera

Vera Solis, Itata

Small producer making "Solis" wines—Semillon and País from Itata. Native yeasts, no additions. Chalky, appley, oxidative style. Part of the new generation of Itata vignerons working with minimal intervention and honest expression of the region's granite soils.

Semillon Oxidative Small Scale Native Yeast

"Itata simply needed time, and for someone—just one person—to discover it. That person was Marcel Lapierre, the fantastic Morgon producer, who visited around 2010 to advise a small local producer. Just his presence was enough for his US importer to become interested in those wines, opening the doors of Itata to the high-end wine market in the United States for the first time." — Pedro Parra, on Itata's discovery by the natural wine world

The Grapes of Natural Chile

Heritage varieties and ancient vines

Red Variety • The Heritage Grape

País (Listán Prieto)

Also known as Mission (California) and Criolla Chica (Argentina). Brought from Spain in 1551. Chile's original grape—200+ year-old vines exist. Pale color, light body, wild strawberry, herbal, earthy. Natural winemakers treat it like Pinot Noir—whole bunch, carbonic, gentle extraction. The poster child for Chilean natural wine.

Style: Light, red fruit, herbal, earthy
Natural Wine Role: Carbonic, whole bunch, zero sulfur
Top Producers: Luyt, Bouchon, Parra, Rogue Vine
Regions: Itata, Maule, Bio Bio
Notable: 200+ year-old vines exist

Red Variety • The Structure Grape

Carignan (Cariñena)

Arrived 1939 after earthquake to add color and structure to País. Planted extensively in Maule's Secano Interior. Old vines (60-100+ years) produce concentrated, spicy, structured wines. VIGNO association protects old vine Carignan. Natural winemakers love it for field blends and single-vineyard expressions. Tannic, dark, herbal.

Style: Structured, spicy, dark, tannic
Natural Wine Role: Field blends, single vineyard
Top Producers: Garage Wine Co, Clos des Fous, Gabino
Regions: Maule (Secano Interior)
Notable: VIGNO association protects old vines

Red Variety • The Elegant One

Cinsault

Also arrived 1939. Thrives in Itata's granite soils. Light-colored, aromatic, floral (violets), red berries, delicate. Often blended with País but increasingly made as single-varietal wines. Leo Erazo's "El Túnel" and "Amigo Piedra" show its potential for elegance and finesse. Perfect for natural wine—low alcohol, high acid.

Style: Light, floral, red berries, elegant
Natural Wine Role: Single vineyard, whole cluster
Top Producers: Rogue Vine, Parra, Bouchon
Regions: Itata, Maule
Notable: 100+ year-old vines in Itata

More Natural Chile Varieties

White grapes and field blend components

Moscatel de Alejandría: Muscat of Alexandria—aromatic, grapey, floral. Grown in Itata for centuries. Mingaco makes skin-contact "Moscatel de Tinaja"—amber, intense, mineral.

Semillon: Forgotten white of Chile. Grown in Itata and coastal areas. Rogue Vine's "Super Itata Semillon" shows its potential for structure and volume. Waxy, honeyed, citrus.

Chasselas: Swiss grape brought by immigrants. Found in old mixed vineyards in Itata. Pino Roman makes textured, mineral Chasselas from 100+ year vines.

Corinto: Rare white variety found in Itata's old vineyards. Sometimes blended, sometimes solo. Adds acidity and citrus notes.

Field Blends: Traditional "Pipeño" is a mix of País, Cinsault, Carignan, and sometimes others—co-fermented in old barrels or rauli (native beechwood) tanks.

Food Pairing & Chilean Cuisine

Natural wine meets empanadas, ceviche, and asado

Pairings for País

Light, herbal reds

Empanadas: Traditional baked empanadas de pino
Ceviche: Chilean ceviche with cilantro
Charquicán: Rustic beef and vegetable stew
Grilled fish: Corvina or reineta from the coast
Local match: Chilean completo (hot dog with avocado)

Pairings for Carignan

Structured, spicy reds

Asado: Chilean barbecue with chimichurri
Chupe de mariscos: Seafood stew
Charqui: Dried horse or beef jerky
Pastel de choclo: Corn and meat pie
Local match: Patagonian lamb

Chilean Wine Traditions

Pipeño, huasos, and the culture of the countryside

Pipeño is both a wine style and a cultural tradition—the everyday wine of the Chilean countryside, traditionally made by farmers (huasos) in wooden rauli tanks or pipas. Natural winemakers have revived this term to describe their field blends. The huaso culture—Chilean cowboys—remains strong in the Secano Interior, where horses are still used to plow between bush vines. Tinajas (clay amphorae) are making a comeback for aging wine, connecting to pre-Columbian and colonial traditions. The VIGNO (Vignadores de Carignan) association, formed in 2010, protects the old vine Carignan of Maule, requiring dry farming, head-training, and minimum 30-year-old vines. ALMAULE does the same for País—promoting fresh, low-alcohol (12.5%) wines from ancient vines. Chilean natural wine is deeply tied to rural identity—it's wine made by campesinos (farmers) using methods unchanged for centuries.

Visiting Natural Chile

From Itata's granitic hills to Maule's drylands

🌊 Itata Valley

Base in Concepción or Chillán. Visit Pedro Parra (appointment essential—tour granitic soils and taste "Grand Cru" wines). Rogue Vine (garage winery in Concepción). Drive to Guarilihue for Mingaco (amphora wines) and Pino Roman. Stay in coastal Cobquecura. Combine with Pacific coast beaches.

🏔️ Maule Valley

Base in Cauquenes or Linares. Visit Clos des Fous (appointment). Garage Wine Co (Derek Mossman Knapp—taste "Truquilemu" Carignan). Bouchon (País specialist, "País Salvaje" from vines in trees). Drive the "Ruta del Vino Secano" (Dryland Wine Route). See 100+ year-old bush vines.

🏙️ Santiago & Valparaíso

Start in Santiago—natural wine bars: Bocanáriz, Chipe Libre. Shop at La Carnicería or Simone. Drive to coast: Valparaíso (bohemian city, wine bars in Cerro Alegre). Casablanca Valley for Emiliana (large organic/biodynamic producer). Combine with Pablo Neruda's house (Isla Negra).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1-2 - Santiago: Arrive. Natural wine bars in Lastarria (Bocanáriz). Overnight Santiago.

Day 3 - Casablanca: Drive to coast (1 hour). Visit Emiliana (organic/biodynamic). Seafood lunch in Valparaíso. Overnight Valparaíso.

Day 4 - Travel to Itata: Drive south (4 hours) or fly to Concepción. Overnight Chillán or Concepción.

Day 5 - Itata: Visit Rogue Vine (garage winery, concrete globes). Pedro Parra (granite soils, Grand Cru tasting). Overnight Guarilihue area.

Day 6 - Itata Coast: Mingaco (amphora wines, no-till farming). Pino Roman (tinajas). Beach time in Cobquecura. Overnight coast.

Day 7 - Maule: Drive to Cauquenes (2 hours). Clos des Fous (Cauquenina field blend). Overnight Cauquenes.

Day 8 - Maule: Garage Wine Co (old vine Carignan, "País Salvaje"). Bouchon (País in trees). Traditional asado lunch. Overnight Linares.

Day 9 - Return Santiago: Drive north (4 hours). Stop in Colchagua if time permits. Overnight Santiago.

Day 10 - Departure: Final shopping, depart.