Clos Saron

Clos Saron, a small, highly influential winery in the Sierra Foothills of California, is the life's work of winemaker Gideon Beinstock and his wife, Saron Rice. With a background rooted in the philosophical and viticultural experimentation of the nearby Renaissance Vineyard, Beinstock has dedicated himself to a radical and "bare bones" approach. The wines of Clos Saron are not simply beverages; they are a profound, challenging, and singular expression of their unique mountain terroir.

Terroir: The Sierra Foothills Anomaly

The location of Clos Saron in the Sierra Foothills is a key element of its identity. This is not a typical California wine region, and the terroir is as unusual as the wines themselves.

• Unique Volcanic Geology: The winery's small, 2.5-acre "Home Vineyard" is located in the Smartville Complex, a localized geological area with sub-oceanic, volcanic origins dating back 160 million years. This is a stark contrast to the more common granitic soils of the foothills. The resulting clay-loam topsoil over fractured volcanic rock gives the wines, particularly their flagship Pinot Noir, a distinctive mineral and structural character.

• Cool, High-Elevation Microclimate: Situated at 1,500-1,600 feet of elevation, the Home Vineyard benefits from a cool microclimate. The northeast-facing slope protects the vines from the most intense afternoon sun, while the high altitude ensures a significant diurnal temperature shift. This is crucial for slow, even ripening, which allows the grapes to develop complex flavors while retaining the vibrant acidity that is a hallmark of Clos Saron's wines.

• Dry Farming and Own-Rooted Vines: Where possible, Beinstock dry farms his vineyards, forcing the vines to grow deep roots in search of water. This practice naturally limits yields and concentrates the flavors in the grapes. Many of the vines are also "own-rooted," meaning they are not grafted onto a phylloxera-resistant rootstock, a testament to the health and isolation of their specific location.

Winemaking: "No-Winemaking" and Purity of Expression

In the cellar, Gideon Beinstock's philosophy is one of extreme minimalism. He believes that "the more 'advanced,' elaborate, and complicated the 'wine making' process, the further away it takes the wine from its place of origin."

• Organic and Biodynamic Farming: The foundation of the winemaking is in the vineyard. Clos Saron farms all their grapes, including those from their Home Vineyard and leased plots, with strict organic and some biodynamic principles. They prioritize a self-sustaining ecosystem, with minimal mowing and limited water use to encourage a healthy, resilient vineyard.

• Harvesting by Feel: Beinstock's approach to harvesting is famously unique. He does not use lab analyses or even taste the grapes. Instead, he harvests entirely by feel, picking only the individual clusters that feel perfectly ripe to his touch. This often requires multiple passes through the vineyard over several weeks, a time-consuming and labor-intensive process that ensures every grape is picked at its peak.

• Spontaneous, Whole-Cluster Fermentation: All of the wines are fermented using native, indigenous yeasts. For many of his wines, the grapes are foot-stomped and fermented as whole clusters, a practice that adds a unique texture, tannin, and complexity. The varieties in his blends are all co-fermented to achieve a more integrated final wine.

• No Additions, Fining, or Filtration: Clos Saron’s wines are made with "no acid corrections, no inoculations, no racking, no fining or filtration." They are aged on their primary lees in old, neutral French oak barrels for extended periods, sometimes as long as he feels is needed, before being bottled.

• Minimal Sulfur: Sulfur dioxide (SO2) is used very sparingly, with some wines receiving no additions and others receiving only a small amount at bottling. The wines are aged on their balance and concentration, not on the antiseptic properties of sulfites.

Clos Saron is a technical and philosophical outlier, a small winery with a massive influence on the natural wine movement. By rejecting conventional wisdom and embracing an uncompromising, hands-off approach in both the vineyard and the cellar, Gideon Beinstock is crafting wines that are not only a singular and powerful expression of his unique terroir but also a living testament to the potential of a deeply personal and unconventional winemaking vision.