Flavour That Could Only Come From Here
When Alan and Nelly Cooper bought their 17.5-hectare property in the Macedon Ranges in 1981, there were no vines in the area. [^243^] Alan was 28, Nelly was 26, and they were nurses who met over night shift in 1977. [^243^] They were pioneers — planting the first vines in 1985 into granitic sandy soil in a natural amphitheatre 610 metres above sea level, in what is regarded as the coldest grape-growing region on mainland Australia. [^251^] [^246^] Initially they planned to be growers, but yields of 1.5 tons per acre made it clear they would need to add value by making and selling their own wine. [^243^] The early years were tough — they used minimal herbicides to establish the vineyard, but never pesticides. [^246^] In 2005, they converted to organics. In 2009, they achieved organic certification. In 2011, they became fully biodynamic — the first certified organic-biodynamic producer in the Macedon Ranges. [^246^] Today, the 5-hectare vineyard produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Lagrein — with the Lagrein widely regarded as Australia's benchmark for the variety. [^247^] Their son Joshua now makes his own label, Joshua Cooper Wines, sourcing grapes from privileged sites across Victoria. [^243^] Alan's philosophy is simple: "At the end of the day what we strive for is flavour that could only come from here!" [^246^]
Nurses, Night Shift & Pioneering Spirit
Alan Cooper was from a family of broad-acre farmers, but as he was not in line for the family farm, he had to go and buy his own land. [^243^] He ended up finding a 17.5-hectare plot in the Macedon Ranges — a region with almost no vineyards at the time. Virgin Hills and Knight's Granite Hills were the two closest. [^243^] Back then, grape growing was seen as an emerging industry, and there was plenty of government help to assist those willing to take the plunge. Alan and Nelly, both nurses, decided to make the leap.
The first vines were planted in 1985 — Shiraz and Chardonnay, with the help of the state viticulturist and state enologist. [^243^] To get a vintner's licence, they needed 4 acres of vines. The yields were low — around 1.5 tons per acre — so they realised they needed to make and sell wine themselves rather than just grow grapes. [^243^] The property was a natural amphitheatre, north-facing, with granitic sandy soils and a sunny but cool climate at 610 metres elevation. [^251^]
The early years were conventional but careful. Herbicides were used to establish the vineyard, but never pesticides. [^246^] Over time, the Coopers became more committed to sustainable farming. In 2005, they began the transition to organics. In 2009, they were certified organic. In 2011, they achieved biodynamic certification — the first in the Macedon Ranges. [^246^] "We have really forged our own path locally being the first certified organic-biodynamic producer in the Macedon Ranges," Alan says. "Nice to think that a lot of others are now becoming likeminded also." [^246^]
"So many people questioned the long-term viability of the Macedon Ranges in those early days. But now we are, I think, very much in the box seat to continue serious cool climate winemaking."
— Alan Cooper
Granitic Amphitheatre, 610m & Own-Rooted Vines
Cobaw Ridge sits in a natural amphitheatre at 610 metres above sea level — "one of the coldest grape growing places in Australia." [^247^] The site has a north-facing aspect that, combined with the amphitheatre shape and granitic sandy soils, creates a unique mesoclimate. [^246^] It is sunny and warm in a cool region, but still delivers superb high acidity. [^246^] All vines are own-rooted — a rarity in modern viticulture and a testament to the site's isolation and the Coopers' long-term thinking. [^243^]
The vineyard now consists of 5 hectares (12.5 acres) of vines. [^246^] Over the years, less-successful varieties and clones have been removed — Cabernet was an early victim, and Vermentino also failed. [^246^] The current mix is Chardonnay (Penfolds P58 clone), Pinot Noir (clones 114, 115, MV6, and a high-density block planted in 2011 at 7,000 vines per hectare), Syrah, and Lagrein. [^243^] [^247^] The Lagrein was grafted in 1993 — the first to trial it in Australia — and has proven a great success. [^246^]
The farming is certified biodynamic, with a focus on soil health and vine resilience. Alan believes that biodynamics has made the vines more self-sufficient. "Close to zero irrigation in our super-free-draining soils must mean the vines have worked a long way down to sustain themselves," he says. "Thicker leaves and berry skins all lead to less disease pressure and more resultant flavour in the wines. We are growing more flavour!" [^246^] Vineyard operations are extensively manual, with a new under-vine machine to help manage weeds. [^246^] A solar system has been installed to service the winery, cellar door, accommodation, and home. [^246^]
Natural amphitheatre at 610m, north-facing, granitic sandy soils. Coldest grape-growing region on mainland Australia. [^251^] [^246^] Unique mesoclimate — sunny and warm but with superb high acidity. Own-rooted vines. The site is the engine of everything Cobaw Ridge produces.
Chardonnay (P58 clone), Pinot Noir (114, 115, MV6 + high-density block), Syrah, and Lagrein (first planted in Australia, 1993). [^246^] [^247^] Cabernet and Vermentino removed over time. The vineyard has been refined to what thrives in this marginal, cool-climate site.
First certified organic-biodynamic producer in the Macedon Ranges. [^246^] Transitioned in 2005, certified organic in 2009, biodynamic in 2011. "We prefer to walk the walk, rather than talk the talk." [^246^] Vines are self-sufficient, with close to zero irrigation and minimal intervention.
All vines are own-rooted — a rarity in Australia where phylloxera-resistant rootstocks are standard. [^243^] This is possible because of the site's isolation and the Coopers' commitment to long-term, low-intervention farming. Own-rooted vines are believed to produce more authentic, site-expressive fruit.
Nil Agro-Artifacts, Zero Additions & Purity
Cobaw Ridge's winemaking is as minimal as its farming. "The vineyard delivers all the necessary requisites for great winemaking, so no need for any additions to the wine except a bit of SO2," Alan explains. [^246^] "So, with nil agro-artefacts in the fruit and zero additions in the wine, it all leads to purity of flavour." [^246^] This is not marketing speak; it is the lived reality of a vineyard that has been farmed biodynamically for over a decade, where the fruit is so healthy and balanced that it needs almost nothing in the cellar.
The techniques are deliberately simple. Indigenous yeasts, open fermenters, gentle extraction, and ageing in a mix of vessels — old French oak, qvevri (terracotta amphoras), and stainless steel. [^247^] The il pinko Syrah rosé is matured and fermented in qvevri and old white French oak — taut, mineral, savoury, spicy, and dry, with fine tannins that will age well into the future. [^247^] The Chardonnay is lean and pure, fine and supremely balanced — flinty, minerally, with green apple, talc, struck flint, and wet fern notes. [^247^] The Pinot Noir is brooding and intense, with ginger, cherry, and strawberry, grippy tannins, and a granular texture that needs time to show its best. [^243^]
Alan is a member of Renaissance des Appellations — Return to Terroir — the invitation-only group of biodynamic producers founded by Nicolas Joly. [^248^] This puts him in rare company: Castagna, Cullen, Jasper Hill, and Ngeringa are the other Australian members. The group's focus is on biodynamics as the pathway to wine that expresses its place with purity and integrity. Alan's wines are bottled under DIAM cork — "to retain their purity and integrity." [^247^] The goal is not to make wines that impress with power or polish, but wines that taste of Cobaw Ridge — of granitic soil, high altitude, cool climate, and biodynamic care.
The Lagrein Legacy
Cobaw Ridge is the champion of Lagrein in Australia — and arguably the world outside its native Alto Adige. [^247^] The variety was grafted in 1993, making Cobaw Ridge the first to trial it commercially in Australia. [^246^] The 1998 Lagrein won "Best Wine of the Show" at the Australian Italian Wine Awards. [^247^] James Halliday scored the 2002 vintage 91 points. Jeremy Oliver called it "a tightly focused, structured, savoury lagrein." Max Allen described it as "seductive, crisp, perfumed with violets and cherries... a real beauty." [^247^] The modern vintages are even more acclaimed — the 2022 scored 96 points from both Mike Bennie and Halliday, with Bennie calling it "bloody fantastic... so much character, so much deliciousness, so much drinkability." [^247^] The 2024 Lagrein scored 97 points from Bennie. [^247^] This is not just a good Lagrein; it is the Lagrein that defines what the variety can achieve in a cool climate. Dark cherry, spice, liquorice, fine lifted floral nose, super supple with great length. [^247^] At 610 metres, in granitic soils, with biodynamic farming, Cobaw Ridge has created something unique — a wine that could only come from here.
Fifth-Generation Farmer, Family Legacy & Renaissance
Alan Cooper is a fifth-generation farmer. [^246^] His family history is in broad-acre farming, but when he was not in line for the family farm, he forged his own path — first as a nurse, then as a vigneron. The adventurous spirit that led him and Nelly to buy a bare block in an unproven wine region in 1981 is still evident today. They are not corporate wine people; they are farmers who happen to make exceptional wine.
The family legacy is now in its second generation. Their son Joshua Cooper makes his own label, Joshua Cooper Wines, sourcing grapes from privileged sites across Victoria — Dash Farms in Mount Alexander, Doug's Vineyard in Romsey, Balgownie in Bendigo, Redbank in the Pyrenees. [^243^] These wines are distinct from Cobaw Ridge — made with the same minimal-intervention philosophy but from different terroirs. Joshua's Chardonnays have scored 94–95 points, his Pinots 95, his Cabernet 95, and his Pyrenees Syrah 96. [^243^] The father and son represent two expressions of the same philosophy: Alan rooted in the Macedon Ranges, Joshua exploring the wider Victorian landscape.
The future of Cobaw Ridge is about long-term viability and staying true to the site. Alan and Nelly have built accommodation on the property — "a secondary non-wine related income stream to assist with our long-term viability." [^246^] The cellar door is open Saturday, Sunday, and public holidays, 12pm to 5pm, by appointment. [^251^] The focus remains on the vineyard — "being aware of the fragile nature of our soils and treading as lightly as possible in all our vineyard operations is a given." [^246^] This is not a winery chasing trends or expanding production. It is a family farm that makes wine from its own grapes, in its own way, on its own land — and has been doing so for 40 years.
"At the end of the day what we strive for is flavour that could only come from here!"
— Alan Cooper
The Cobaw Ridge Range
Cobaw Ridge produces a focused, estate-grown range of biodynamic wines from its 5-hectare vineyard in the Macedon Ranges. The portfolio centres on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (Original and High Density), Syrah, Lagrein, and the iconic il pinko Syrah rosé — plus the l'altra range of experimental blends. All wines are made with indigenous yeasts, minimal sulfur, no fining, and no filtration. The style is lean, pure, mineral, and built for ageing — "flinty, minerally styles" that deliver "some flavour for those into that." [^247^] Prices are approximate and vary by market.