The Forgotten South
Aube (Côte des Bar)
Where Champagne meets Burgundy, Kimmeridgian soils produce world-class Pinot Noir, and a new generation of rebels crafts the most exciting natural wines in the region
Champagne's Rebel South
The region that was almost expelled from Champagne now leads its natural wine revolution
The Aube, and specifically the Côte des Bar within it, is Champagne's southern frontier—geographically closer to Chablis than to Reims, culturally more Burgundian than Champenois, and historically the region that the grandes marques tried to exclude from the appellation entirely. Today, this "forgotten south" has become the most dynamic and innovative area in Champagne, producing some of the region's most sought-after natural wines and redefining what Champagne can be.
The Côte des Bar stretches across 8,000 hectares of rolling hills, forests, and vineyards, accounting for nearly 25% of Champagne's total vineyard surface yet producing less than 10% of its prestige. The reason is historical: for decades, the grandes marques of Reims and Épernay bought Aube grapes to bulk out their blends while denying the region's terroir any recognition. This created a unique situation—thousands of hectares of high-quality vineyards, farmed by independent growers with no incentive to bottle their own wines, until a new generation decided to change the rules.
The terroir here is distinct from the rest of Champagne. The Kimmeridgian marl and limestone—the same soils that make Chablis famous—give the wines a unique mineral character, while the slightly warmer continental climate allows Pinot Noir to achieve perfect ripeness. The result is Champagne with Burgundian soul: wines of terroir, transparency, and individuality that challenge the very notion of what Champagne should be. Producers like Cédric Bouchard, Marie-Courtin, and Vouette & Sorbée have become cult figures, their wines allocated worldwide and served in the world's best restaurants.
Key Facts
- Location: Southern Champagne, Aube department
- Size: ~8,000 hectares (23% of Champagne)
- Distance: 100km south of Reims, near Chablis
- Soil: Kimmeridgian marl, Portlandian limestone
- Climate: Continental, warmer than north
- Main Grape: Pinot Noir (86%)
- Classification: No Grand Crus (all "autre cru")
From Exclusion to Revolution
The Côte des Bar's journey from "second zone" to Champagne's most exciting region
Saint Bernard & Clairvaux Abbey
Saint Bernard, a monk from Cîteaux Abbey near Clos Vougeot in Burgundy, revitalizes vineyards at Clairvaux Abbey. He introduces the Morillon Noir grape—ancestor of Pinot Noir—establishing the region's red wine tradition centuries before bubbles were discovered.
The Burgundy Connection
The Côte des Bar historically alternates between Champagne and Burgundy control. The region shares more with Chablis than with Reims—same Kimmeridgian soils, same continental climate, same focus on Pinot Noir. This dual heritage shapes the wine culture.
The Great Exclusion
The official Champagne classification attempts to exclude the Aube entirely. The grandes marques of the Marne argue that the region is not "true Champagne." This creates lasting resentment and a chip on the shoulder that still defines the region's identity.
The Champagne Riots
Aube growers riot against their exclusion. The government relents, granting the region "Champagne deuxième zone" (second Champagne zone) status—a humiliating designation that brands Aube wines as inferior. This status persists until 1927.
Full AOC Status
The Aube is finally granted full AOC Champagne status, but without any Premier or Grand Cru classifications. The region remains a source of bulk grapes for the grandes marques, with most growers selling their harvest rather than bottling their own.
Fleury Goes Biodynamic
Jean-Pierre Fleury converts his family's estate in Courteron to biodynamic farming—the first in Champagne. This pioneering move sets the stage for the region's natural wine revolution and demonstrates that the Aube can produce world-class estate-bottled Champagne.
Cédric Bouchard & Roses de Jeanne
Former sommelier Cédric Bouchard establishes Roses de Jeanne in Celles-sur-Ource, introducing a radical philosophy: single-vineyard, single-variety, single-vintage, zero-dosage Champagnes. His "3S" philosophy (Single vineyard, Single grape, Single vintage) revolutionizes the region.
Vouette & Sorbée Debuts
Bertrand Gautherot, inspired by friends Anselme Selosse and Jérôme Prévost, begins bottling his own Champagne in Buxières-sur-Arce. His biodynamic, single-vineyard expressions become cult wines, proving that the Aube can rival Grand Cru terroirs.
Marie-Courtin Founded
Dominique Moreau establishes Marie-Courtin in Polisot, naming the estate after her grandmother. She focuses on biodynamic Pinot Noir from a single hillside vineyard, creating wines of "power and cut" that become benchmarks for the region.
The Aube Renaissance
The Côte des Bar becomes the hottest region in Champagne. Natural wine bars in Paris, London, and New York fight for allocations. The "autre cru" classification becomes meaningless as Aube wines command prices exceeding Grand Crus. The region that was almost expelled now leads Champagne's future.
Two Bars, One Kimmeridgian Soul
The distinct sub-regions of the Côte des Bar
🗿 Kimmeridgian Marl
The signature soil of the Côte des Bar, shared with Chablis. This Jurassic-era soil (155-150 million years old) is a mix of limestone and clay marl, rich in fossils and marine deposits. It provides both the acidity of limestone and the structure of clay, creating wines with tension and depth.
🏔️ Portlandian Limestone
Younger Tithonian-era limestone (150-145 million years old) found on hilltops and slopes. Harder and more chalky than Kimmeridgian, it provides excellent drainage and minerality. Many top vineyards have a mix of both soil types.
🌡️ Continental Climate
Slightly warmer than northern Champagne, with more continental influence. This allows Pinot Noir to ripen fully while maintaining acidity. The diurnal temperature variation (warm days, cool nights) preserves freshness in the wines.
🌊 The Barséquanais
The larger sub-region (33 villages, 5,472 ha) stretching along the Seine River and its tributaries (Arce, Laignes, Ource, Sarce). Hillier terrain with some of Champagne's steepest slopes (up to 40% gradient). Home to most of the region's cult producers.
🏘️ The Bar-sur-Aubois
The smaller, cooler sub-region (31 villages, 2,425 ha) centered on Bar-sur-Aube. More Pinot Meunier planted here due to cooler temperatures. Home to Champagne Drappier, the region's largest and most historic house.
🍇 The Les Riceys Exception
The largest village in Champagne (838 hectares), formed from three merged villages. Famous for Rosé des Riceys, a still Pinot Noir wine with its own AOP. The "golden triangle" of Riceys produces some of the most concentrated Pinot Noir in Champagne.
Key Villages & Their Character
| Village/Area | Sub-Region | Character | Key Producers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Celles-sur-Ource | Barséquanais | Cult wine central, steep slopes | Cédric Bouchard |
| Polisot | Barséquanais | Single hillside, biodynamic | Marie-Courtin |
| Buxières-sur-Arce | Barséquanais | Natural wine pioneer | Vouette & Sorbée |
| Les Riceys | Barséquanais | Still rosé specialist, Pinot Noir | Olivier Horiot, Alexandre Bonnet |
| Courteron | Bar-sur-Aubois | First biodynamic estate | Fleury |
| Urville | Bar-sur-Aubois | Historic house, 12th century cellars | Drappier |
Village by Village
The heartland of Champagne's natural wine movement
Celles-sur-Ource
The Cult Wine Capital • Cédric Bouchard
The most famous village in the Aube, Celles-sur-Ource is synonymous with Cédric Bouchard and his Roses de Jeanne label. The steep slopes and Kimmeridgian soils here produce Pinot Noir of extraordinary concentration. Bouchard's single-vineyard cuvées—"Val Vilaine," "Les Ursules," "Côte de Bachelin"—are among the most allocated wines in Champagne. The village represents the pinnacle of the "3S" philosophy: Single vineyard, Single grape, Single vintage. Production is minuscule (150-500 cases per cuvée), demand is global, and the wines are revelatory.
Key Producers: Cédric Bouchard (Roses de Jeanne)
Polisot
The Biodynamic Hillside • Marie-Courtin
Home to Marie-Courtin, the estate that put Polisot on the map. Dominique Moreau farms 2.5 hectares of Pinot Noir on a single east/southeast-facing hillside overlooking the Seine River. The combination of low yields, clay-limestone soils with Kimmeridgian bands, and biodynamic farming creates wines of "power and cut." The "Résonance" (stainless steel) and "Éfflorescence" (barrel-aged) demonstrate the same vineyard's different expressions. The "Indulgence" rosé de maceration is a cult favorite—deeply colored, intensely flavored, and utterly unique.
Key Producers: Marie-Courtin
Buxières-sur-Arce
The Natural Wine Pioneer • Vouette & Sorbée
Bertrand Gautherot's Vouette & Sorbée put this village on the map. Farming 5 hectares biodynamically across six lieux-dits, Gautherot produces wines of rare originality. "Fidèle" (Blanc de Noirs from multiple sites) and "Blanc d'Argile" (Chardonnay from Briaunes) are benchmarks for natural Champagne. The "Saignée de Sorbée" rosé is one of the most intense pink Champagnes made. Gautherot also raises cattle and chickens, creating a nearly self-sustaining ecosystem. His wines are served in the world's best natural wine bars.
Key Producers: Vouette & Sorbée
Les Riceys
The Golden Triangle • Rosé des Riceys
The largest village in Champagne (838 hectares), formed from three merged villages (Ricey-Bas, Ricey-Haute-Rive, Ricey-Haut). Famous for Rosé des Riceys, a still Pinot Noir wine made by semi-carbonic maceration that was prized at the court of Louis XIV. The "golden triangle" of vineyards produces Pinot Noir of exceptional concentration. Producers like Olivier Horiot and Alexandre Bonnet craft both sparkling Champagne and still Rosé des Riceys, preserving a unique tradition found nowhere else in the region.
Key Producers: Olivier Horiot, Alexandre Bonnet
Courteron
Biodynamic Pioneer • Champagne Fleury
Home to Champagne Fleury, the first estate in Champagne to convert to biodynamic farming (1989). The Fleury family has been instrumental in proving that sustainable agriculture can produce exceptional Champagne. Their "Fleur de l'Europe" (the first biodynamic Champagne) and "Boléro" (pure Pinot Noir) are benchmarks for the region. The estate spans 15 hectares and remains family-owned, now in the hands of the third generation. They also produce rare still Coteaux Champenois and experiment with amphora aging.
Key Producers: Champagne Fleury
Urville
Historic House • Champagne Drappier
The home of Champagne Drappier, the Aube's largest and most historic house. Founded in 1808, Drappier occupies cellars built in the 12th century by Cistercian monks from Clairvaux Abbey. The house is a rare example of a large producer championing the Aube terroir, with 55% of their production from Pinot Noir. Their "Grande Sendrée" and "Charles de Gaulle" cuvées demonstrate that the Aube can produce prestige Champagne. Drappier also preserves rare varieties, including the world's largest planting of Fromenteau (Pinot Gris).
Key Producers: Champagne Drappier
The Grapes of the South
Pinot Noir dominates, but heritage varieties thrive
Pinot Noir
The king of the Côte des Bar, thriving on Kimmeridgian soils. Achieves perfect ripeness with structure and elegance, rivaling Burgundy in quality.
- Plantings: ~6,880 hectares (86%)
- Style: Red fruit, spice, earthy, mineral
- Top Villages: Celles-sur-Ource, Polisot, Les Riceys
- Notable: Morillon Noir introduced 1116
- Use: Blanc de Noirs, Rosé, still red
Chardonnay
Planted on Portlandian limestone slopes. The Aube proves Chardonnay can excel here too, with wines rivaling the Côte des Blancs for minerality.
- Plantings: ~800 hectares (10%)
- Style: Citrus, mineral, saline
- Top Producers: Vouette & Sorbée, Jacques Lassaigne
- Notable: Same soils as Chablis
- Use: Blanc de Blancs, blending
Pinot Blanc, Gris, Arbanne, Petit Meslier
The Aube preserves Champagne's heritage grapes better than any region. These rare varieties add complexity and historical depth to blends.
- Pinot Blanc: Called Blanc Vrai locally
- Pinot Gris: Fromenteau (Drappier)
- Arbanne & Petit Meslier: Rare, high acid
- Notable: 50% of Champagne's heritage grapes
- Use: Field blends, curiosity cuvées
The Aube Style: Burgundian Champagne
Blanc de Noirs: The signature style—pure Pinot Noir with red fruit, spice, and earthy minerality. Often zero dosage to showcase terroir. Can age beautifully, developing truffle and forest floor notes.
Rosé de Saignée: The Aube specializes in saignée rosé (macerated, not blended). These are intense, deeply colored wines with structure and aging potential. Marie-Courtin's "Indulgence" is the benchmark.
Rosé des Riceys: A unique still wine made by semi-carbonic maceration. Pale red, tart, and light—historically prized by Louis XIV. A separate AOP within Champagne.
Blanc de Blancs: Surprisingly mineral and Chablis-like, thanks to the same Kimmeridgian soils. Vouette & Sorbée's "Blanc d'Argile" proves the potential.
Icons of the Natural Wine Revolution
The producers who redefined Champagne from the Aube
Legends & Cult Producers
Pioneers & Rising Stars
Food Pairing & Gastronomy
The Aube's wines demand bold cuisine
Pairings for Aube Blanc de Noirs
- Grilled Duck Breast: The wine's structure matches the rich meat
- Mushroom Risotto: Earthy flavors complement the wine's minerality
- Roasted Lamb: Spice and red fruit notes pair perfectly
- Charcuterie: The Aube's andouillette and cured meats
- Truffle Dishes: Aged Blanc de Noirs with black truffle
- Hard Cheeses: Aged Comté, Salers
Pairings for Rosé des Riceys
- Grilled Salmon: The wine's acidity cuts through richness
- Goat Cheese: Local Crottin de Chavignol
- Charcuterie: Perfect with cured meats and pâté
- Light Pasta: Tomato-based sauces
- Pork Tenderloin: The wine's fruit complements the meat
- Summer Dining: Served slightly chilled
Local Gastronomy
The Aube is famous for andouillette de Troyes—a powerfully aromatic sausage made from pig's intestines that is a local delicacy (acquired taste for some). Chaource cheese, a creamy cow's milk cheese from the village of the same name, pairs beautifully with Blanc de Noirs. The region is also known for truffles (the mushroom, not chocolate), which appear in local dishes during winter. Troyes, the historic capital, offers excellent restaurants featuring these specialties alongside Aube Champagne.
Visiting the Aube
Authentic Champagne country, closer to Burgundy than Reims
🏛️ Troyes
The historic capital of the Aube, with stunning half-timbered medieval architecture, excellent restaurants, and a vibrant atmosphere. Base yourself here to explore the region. Don't miss the Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul Cathedral and the Maison de l'Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière (tool museum).
🍇 The Riceys
Explore the largest village in Champagne, divided into three parts. Visit producers like Olivier Horiot or Alexandre Bonnet to taste both Champagne and Rosé des Riceys. The village is picturesque, with vineyards surrounding historic churches.
⛪ Clairvaux Abbey
The 12th-century Cistercian abbey where Saint Bernard introduced Pinot Noir to the region. The abbey shares history with Champagne Drappier (their cellars were built by the monks). A beautiful and historically significant site.
3-Day Itinerary: The Aube Discovery
Day 1 - Troyes & the Bar-sur-Aubois: Morning exploring Troyes' medieval center. Lunch at a local restaurant featuring andouillette. Afternoon visit to Champagne Drappier in Urville to see the historic cellars and taste their range. Dinner in Troyes with Chaource cheese and local Champagne.
Day 2 - The Cult Producers: Morning appointment with Cédric Bouchard in Celles-sur-Ource (book months ahead) or visit Marie-Courtin in Polisot. Lunch in Bar-sur-Seine. Afternoon with Vouette & Sorbée in Buxières-sur-Arce or Fleury in Courteron. Experience the natural wine revolution firsthand. Overnight in Troyes or a rural gîte.
Day 3 - Les Riceys & Rosé: Morning in Les Riceys with Olivier Horiot or Alexandre Bonnet, tasting both Champagne and Rosé des Riceys. Understand the still wine tradition. Lunch in the village. Afternoon visit to Clairvaux Abbey. Return to Paris (2 hours by train from Troyes) or continue to Chablis/Burgundy.