Croatia Natural Wine Guide: Dalmatian Sun & Istrian Soul | Plavac Mali, Malvazija & the Adriatic Revival

Dalmatian Sun & Istrian Soul

Croatia

From the steep karst cliffs of Dingač to the rolling hills of Motovun, discover how Croatian natural winemakers are reviving 2,500-year-old traditions with Plavac Mali, Malvazija Istarska, and Graševina—embracing spontaneous fermentation, amphora aging, and the pure expression of Adriatic terroir

Plavac Mali Malvazija Graševina Orange Wine Amphora Adriatic

17,000 Hectares Under Vine

130+ Indigenous Varieties

2,500 Years of History

400+ Wineries

The Adriatic's Best-Kept Secret

Where Greek origins meet Italian influence and Slavic soul

Croatia—a country of dramatic coastlines, ancient walled cities, and over 1,000 islands—harbors one of Europe's most exciting natural wine scenes. With 2,500 years of continuous viticultural history dating back to Greek colonists who planted vines on Korčula in the 4th century BCE, Croatia possesses an extraordinary treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties and unique terroirs that are only now receiving international recognition.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Croatian natural wine—producers who work with the country's remarkable diversity of climates and soils. In Istria, Mladen Rožanić of Roxanich creates "honest but big" natural wines with extended maceration in a stunning subterranean cellar beneath the medieval town of Motovun. In Dalmatia, Ivo Matošin crafts natural Babić from 14-year-old vines in the hills above Primošten, while Denis Bogoević Marušić on the Pelješac peninsula produces amphora-aged Grk and Plavac Mali.

What unites them is a commitment to Croatia's indigenous heritage—the bold Plavac Mali (genetically linked to Zinfandel), the aromatic Malvazija Istarska, the salty Grk of Korčula, and the most-planted but underappreciated Graševina (Welschriesling). These grapes, farmed organically or biodynamically and fermented with native yeasts, express the full spectrum of Croatian terroir: from the karst limestone cliffs of Dalmatia to the red soils of Istria and the volcanic slopes of Slavonia.

Key Facts

Location: Southeastern Europe, Adriatic coast
History: 2,500+ years (Greek origins)
Key Regions: Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia, Croatian Uplands
Main Grapes: Plavac Mali, Malvazija Istarska, Graševina, Teran
Method: Organic, biodynamic, amphora, native yeast
Style: Coastal, mineral, high acid, indigenous
Notable: Plavac Mali = parent of Zinfandel

From Greek Colonies to the GrapeSton Festival

2,500 years of Adriatic wine history

4th Century BCE

Greek Origins

Greek colonists from Syracuse (Sicily) establish vineyards on Korčula island, bringing the grape varieties that would become Grk and Pošip. The Stari Grad Plain on Hvar becomes an organized agricultural landscape, still cultivated today and recognized as UNESCO World Heritage. Wine becomes central to Dalmatian culture.

1383

Medieval Fame

A document in Dubrovnik's archives records that local nobles prized Malvasija Dubrovačka, referring to it as "a wine to be appreciated, not devoured." The Venetians trade Croatian wines throughout the Mediterranean, establishing the reputation of Dalmatian and Istrian wines across Europe.

1962-1967

Yugoslav Era Appellations

Dingač (1962) becomes the first protected wine appellation in Croatia (then Yugoslavia), followed by Postup (1967). These appellations on the Pelješac peninsula recognize the unique quality of Plavac Mali grown on steep, south-facing karst slopes above the Adriatic.

1991-2000

Independence & Recovery

The Croatian War of Independence disrupts viticulture, particularly in contested regions like Slavonia. Post-war, small family wineries begin to reclaim vineyards and rebuild traditions. The focus shifts from quantity to quality, with renewed interest in indigenous varieties.

2003

The Zinfandel Connection

DNA research at UC Davis confirms that Plavac Mali is the offspring of Crljenak Kaštelanski (the original Croatian Zinfandel) and Dobričić. This discovery links Croatian viticulture to California and Puglia, sparking international interest in Croatian wines and their ancient heritage.

2018-Present

Natural Wine Explosion

The first GrapeSton festival of "natural winegrowers and spontaneous wines" launches in Ston, bringing together 25 Croatian natural producers with international slow-food chefs. Roxanich gains international cult status. Croatian natural wine appears in top bars from Paris to Tokyo. The movement emphasizes "farm wine" traditions and amphora aging (from Dalmatian island traditions).

"All this is normal stuff. If you really want to try something unique from the Pelješac, you have to use the native yeasts. If you're not using the yeast from the vineyards, you can feel it." — Denis Bogoević Marušić, Križ Winery

Karst, Loess & the Adriatic

The diverse terroirs shaping Croatian natural wine

🌊 Istria

The heart-shaped peninsula in the northern Adriatic, shared with Italy and Slovenia. Known as "Tuscany of Croatia" for its rolling hills, medieval towns (Motovun, Grožnjan), and truffle-rich forests. Red terra rossa soil (limestone rich in iron oxide) and Mediterranean climate. Home to Malvazija Istarska (aromatic white) and Teran (rustic red). Many natural producers here use skin-contact and amphora methods.

⛰️ Dalmatia

The dramatic coastal region from Zadar to Dubrovnik, including islands (Hvar, Korčula, Brač, Vis). Karst limestone cliffs plunge into the Adriatic. Steep, bush-trained (gobelet) vineyards on south-facing slopes capture sun and sea reflection. Home to Plavac Mali, Pošip, Grk, and Babić. Dingač and Postup are the most famous appellations. Extremely dry, requiring minimal intervention.

🌾 Slavonia & Podunavlje

The continental east along the Danube River. Volcanic soils on slopes of Krndija and Papuk mountains (UNESCO Geopark). Kutjevo is the "capital of Graševina." Continental climate with cold winters and hot summers. Home to Graševina (Welschriesling), the most planted Croatian grape, as well as Frankovka (Blaufränkisch). Natural producers here focus on skin-contact Graševina and biodynamic methods.

🏔️ Moslavina

Hilly region south of Zagreb, part of the Croatian Uplands. Home to Škrlet (indigenous white with red spots) and the first Demeter-certified Croatian winery (Vina Glavica). Clay and limestone soils. Cooler continental climate. Emerging natural wine scene with biodynamic pioneers.

🏝️ Komarna

Croatia's youngest wine region (designated 2013) and first fully organic wine region. Located between Split and Dubrovnik. Steep limestone slopes (up to 45% gradient) with southern exposure. All 200 acres certified organic. Cool nights despite southern latitude produce fresh, mineral Plavac Mali.

🪨 Karst & Sea

The defining characteristic of Dalmatian terroir is "karst"—porous limestone that drains rapidly, forcing vines to struggle. The sea provides "double insolation" (sun from above, reflection from below) and cooling breezes. This stress creates concentrated, mineral wines with high acidity and saline character, perfect for natural winemaking.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Istria	Mediterranean	Terra rossa (red limestone)	Aromatic, mineral, orange wines
Dalmatia	Mediterranean, karst	Limestone, rocky	Concentrated, saline, robust
Slavonia	Continental	Volcanic, loess	Crisp, mineral, structured
Pelješac	Maritime, steep slopes	Karst limestone	Powerful, age-worthy Plavac Mali
Korčula	Island, sandy	Sand, limestone	Mineral, saline, Grk specialist

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining Croatian natural wine

Istria – The Tuscany of Croatia

Mladen Rožanić & Daughters

Roxanich Winery, Motovun, Istria

Swiss entrepreneur with Istrian roots who founded Roxanich nearly 30 years ago. Six daughters (Sorelle) inspire wine labels. 70 acres under vine in Bušura and Bačva villages, producing ~70,000 bottles annually. State-of-the-art four-level cellar built into the hillside beneath the Design Hotel. Specializes in "long aged rare natural wines" with extended maceration (weeks to years). Three collections: First Roses (young), Sorelle (long-macerated amber/orange), and Philosophy (premium aged reds). Organic and biodynamic principles. "Patience is a fantastic cellar technique" – gives wines time to harmonize naturally. Signature wines: SuperIstrian (red blend), monastery wines, and amber Malvazija.

Cult Status Long Maceration Design Hotel 6 Daughters

Ipša Family

Ipša, Oprtalj, Istria

Family-owned estate producing natural wines and olive oil for 20+ years in the heart of Istria, near Motovun Forest (famous for white truffles). Perched on hillside with terraces of olive trees and vines. Focus on Malvazija Istarska and Teran, with wines that express the truffle-rich terroir. Organic farming, minimal intervention. Wines often served with truffled pasta at the estate. Represents the tradition of Istrian farm wine—"vino da tavola" elevated through natural methods.

Family Estate Truffle Terroir Malvazija Olive Oil

Damir Mihelić

Ghira Winery, Istria

Natural wine producer who follows natural principles but rejects labels. "I make wine. I don't put any kind of adjective before the word." Family made 10,000 liters annually in the 1950s "in a natural way, without electricity, tractors..." Returned to these methods in 2008 after enology school. Uses clay amphoras (Qvevri-style) buried in the ground for fermenting and aging Malvazija. Focus on wild yeasts from the vineyard. Small production, philosophical approach, part of the "getting back to normal" movement.

Amphora No Labels Traditional Wild Yeast

Dalmatia – The Wild Coast

Ivo Matošin

Matosin Winery, Primošten, Northern Dalmatia

70-year-old pioneer of natural Babić wine. 14-year-old vines on steep valley slopes near Primošten (famous for Šibenik region vineyards). Initially used copper and sulfur but stopped after 6-7 years when no problems appeared. Now applies nothing in the vineyard. "All this is normal stuff" – sees natural winemaking as returning to tradition, not joining a movement. Babić vines surrounded by pink wildflowers and olive trees. Morning sun delayed by eastern ridge, breeze funnels up valley preventing mildew. Small production, family farm wine.

Babić Specialist Zero Spray 70 Years Old Traditional

Denis Bogoević Marušić & Maja

Križ Winery, Pelješac Peninsula, Dalmatia

Young couple making natural Grk and Plavac Mali on the Pelješac peninsula. Farmed organically from the beginning alongside Denis's father. "If you really want to try something unique from the Pelješac, you have to use the native yeasts." Part of GrapeSton festival organizing committee. Co-organized first natural wine festival in Croatia (April 2024) in Ston, bringing together 25 natural growers from Croatia, Slovenia, and Serbia. Focus on "spontaneous wines" and the "unbroken line from vineyard to glass."

Grk Specialist Pelješac GrapeSton Festival Native Yeast

Lacman Family

Lacman Winery, Selca, Hvar Island

Family-run winery in hillside hamlet of Selca on Hvar Island. Combines ancient traditions with modern trends. "Polpola" – first orange wine from Hvar, made in terracotta amphorae buried in the ground from Bogdanuša and Maraština grapes. "Friška" from indigenous Bogdanuša (only grows in Stari Grad Plain, UNESCO site). "Esenca" – powerful Plavac Mali from Hvar's south coast. Offers tastings with Dalmatian cheeses and salami on wooden deck with views over Stari Grad Bay. Live blues concerts. Represents island natural wine tradition.

Hvar Island Amphora Orange Wine Bogdanuša

Continental Croatia – Slavonia & Moslavina

Antun Glavica

Vina Glavica, Moslavina (Mramor Hill)

First winery in Croatia to achieve Demeter certification for both biodynamic winegrowing AND biodynamic winemaking (cellar practices). Small family winery atop Mramor Hill. Škrlet (indigenous white with red spots) specialist – first Croatian Demeter Škrlet. Also Graševina and Frankovka (Blaufränkisch). Experiments with PIWI (fungal-resistant) varieties. Vineyard helpers include geese, ducks (eat snails), ram and sheep (mow grass, fertilize). Won Decanter gold for Škrlet. Philosophy: "You could have a Demeter wine that's not natural, but we only use a little bit of sulfur and nothing else."

First Demeter Croatia Biodynamic Škrlet Specialist Animal Helpers

Ivan Enjingi

Enjingi Winery, Slavonia

Leading natural winemaker in Croatia with 120 years of family winemaking history. Certified organic. Specializes in Graševina (Welschriesling) with skin contact (3 days maceration), creating rich, full-bodied wines with mouthwatering acidity, ripe stone fruits, autumn fruits, minerality, herbs, and petrol. Also makes Rhein Riesling and other varieties. Represents the Slavonian natural wine tradition—taking the most-planted Croatian grape and elevating it through organic farming and natural methods. Wine is unfiltered, with indigenous yeast fermentation.

120 Year History Organic Certified Graševina Skin Contact

Kosovec

Moslavina/Croatian Uplands

Part of the "Hilly Croatia" (Zagorje) natural wine scene. Biodynamic winery mentioned as leader in the region alongside Glavica. Focus on indigenous varieties and natural winemaking methods. Specific details less documented but represents the emerging natural wine movement in northern Croatia outside of the more famous coastal regions.

Biodynamic Zagorje Hilly Croatia

"Some years when the grapes are not 100 percent healthy because of hailstorms or something, we need to manually pick only the good berries to put in the amphora." — Antun Glavica, Vina Glavica (on the realities of natural winemaking)

The Grapes of Natural Croatia

Plavac Mali, Malvazija, Graševina & indigenous treasures

Red Variety • The King

Plavac Mali

Croatia's most important red grape, genetically proven to be the offspring of Crljenak Kaštelanski (original Zinfandel/Primitivo) and Dobričić. Grows on steep, sun-baked karst slopes. Small berries, thick skins, high tannins. Aromas of dried figs, black cherry, dark plum, tobacco, Mediterranean herbs, and earthy spice.

Style: Bold, structured, tannic, age-worthy
Natural Wine Role: Amphora aging, long maceration
Top Producers: Roxanich, Križ, Lacman
Regions: Pelješac, Hvar, Brač, Dingač, Postup
Notable: Parent of California Zinfandel

White Variety • The Queen

Malvazija Istarska

Istria's signature white grape, brought by Venetians but adapted to local terroir. Thick-skinned, amber-gold color, mature fruity bouquet. Notes of melon, apricot, peach, herbs, and almonds. Natural producers use extended skin contact (orange wine) to extract phenolics and create texture.

Style: Aromatic, textured, herbal, mineral
Natural Wine Role: Orange wines, amphora aging
Top Producers: Roxanich, Ghira, Ipša
Regions: Istria (Motovun, Buje, Novigrad)
Notable: Often macerated for weeks/months

White Variety • The Most Planted

Graševina (Welschriesling)

Croatia's most planted white grape (not related to true Riesling). Likely originated in Slavonia. Versatile—makes dry, off-dry, sweet, and sparkling wines. Golden-green color, green apple, pear, citrus. Natural producers use skin contact to add texture and complexity. Also called Italian Riesling.

Style: Fresh, fruity, mineral, high acid
Natural Wine Role: Skin-contact, pét-nat, amphora
Top Producers: Enjingi, Krauthaker, Glavica
Regions: Slavonia, Kutjevo, Baranja
Notable: Makes "gemišt" (spritzer) with mineral water

More Indigenous Treasures

Other Croatian varieties in natural wine

Teran: Rustic red from Istria (650+ year history). Late-ripening, vibrant acidity, earthy and aromatic. Often made as "Refošk" in Slovenia. Roxanich makes premium aged Teran.

Grk: Indigenous white from Korčula island. "Grk" means "Greek"—likely brought by ancient Greeks. Only female flowers (needs pollinator like Plavac Mali). Sandy soils, mineral, bitter lemon, saline. Extremely limited production.

Pošip: Indigenous white from Korčula (Smokvica and Čara valleys). Discovered in 1864. Now Croatia's second most-planted white. Aromatic, full-bodied, Mediterranean herbs, citrus. Used in orange wines.

Babić: Red from northern Dalmatia (Primošten). Thick-skinned, drought-resistant. Structured wines with blackberry and spice. Ivo Matošin is natural Babić specialist.

Bogdanuša: "Given by Bog/God"—indigenous Hvar white. Only grows in Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO). Light, fresh, neutral. Lacman uses in amphora orange wine.

Škrlet: Indigenous Moslavina white with distinctive red spots on grape skins. Light, airy, between white and red structure. Vina Glavica makes benchmark biodynamic Škrlet.

Debit: Indigenous Dalmatian white, high yielding, neutral. Natural producers use skin contact to add interest.

Food Pairing & Croatian Cuisine

Natural wine meets peka, seafood, and truffle

Pairings for Plavac Mali

Bold, structured reds

Peka: Lamb or octopus baked under bell with potatoes
Pašticada: Marinated beef stew with gnocchi
Grilled fish: Tuna or swordfish with wild herbs
Aged cheeses: Paški sir (Pag cheese), Livanjski
Local match: Dalmatian pršut (prosciutto)

Pairings for Malvazija

Aromatic, textured whites

Seafood: Grilled squid, octopus salad, langoustines
Truffles: Fuži (pasta) with white truffles (Istria)
Fish: Brancin (sea bass), orada (sea bream)
Oysters: Ston oysters (famous since Roman times)
Local match: Istrian pršut with truffle

Croatian Wine Traditions

Peka, gemišt, and the art of prošek

Croatian wine culture is deeply tied to food and family. Peka—meat or octopus baked under a bell-like dome with potatoes and vegetables over open fire—is the quintessential pairing for Plavac Mali. Gemišt—white wine (usually Graševina) mixed with sparkling mineral water—is the everyday drink of inland Croatia, perfect for day-drinking and food pairing. Prošek is the traditional Dalmatian sweet wine (not to be confused with Italian Prosecco), made from dried grapes like Passito. Natural winemakers are reviving amphora (Qvevri) aging, a tradition from Dalmatian islands where clay vessels were buried in the ground. The GrapeSton festival in Ston brings together natural winemakers from across the Balkans, celebrating "spontaneous wines" and the slow food movement.

Visiting Natural Croatia

From Motovun to Pelješac

🏰 Istria

Base in Motovun or Rovinj. Visit Roxanich (book hotel or tasting—stunning cellar tour). Truffle hunting in Motovun Forest. Visit Ipša for Malvazija and olive oil. Ghira for amphora wines. Combine with hill towns (Grožnjan, Oprtalj). Best time: September (truffle season starts) or May-June.

🌊 Pelješac & Ston

Base in Ston or Orebić. Visit Križ winery (Denis Bogoević Marušić) for Grk and Plavac Mali. Taste oysters in Ston (famous since Romans). Visit Dingač appellation (steep slopes). Matuško, Miloš, Grgić for classic Plavac Mali. Attend GrapeSton festival (April). Best time: May-June or September-October.

🏝️ Korčula & Hvar

Visit Lumbarda (Korčula) for Grk at Bire or Merga Victa. Smokvica for Pošip. On Hvar, visit Lacman in Selca for amphora Bogdanuša. Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO) for ancient Greek vineyard patterns. Best time: June-September (island season).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Zagreb: Arrive, explore natural wine bars (Nesputana Vina). Overnight Zagreb.

Day 2 - Moslavina: Drive to Mramor Hill. Visit Vina Glavica (Demeter biodynamic, Škrlet tasting). Meet the geese and sheep. Overnight Zagreb or local.

Day 3 - Slavonia: Drive east to Kutjevo. Visit Enjingi (skin-contact Graševina). Krauthaker (classic Graševina Mitrovac). Return to Zagreb.

Day 4 - Istria: Drive to Motovun (3 hours). Check into Roxanich Wine & Design Hotel. Tour the four-level cellar, taste Sorelle and Philosophy collections. Truffle dinner at Forchetta 1902.

Day 5 - Istria: Visit Ipša (Malvazija and olive oil with views). Ghira (amphora Malvazija). Explore Grožnjan hill town. Overnight Motovun.

Day 6 - Dalmatia: Drive to Zadar or Split (3-4 hours). Ferry to Hvar. Visit Lacman (amphora orange wine, Bogdanuša). Overnight Hvar.

Day 7 - Korčula: Ferry to Korčula. Visit Bire or Merga Victa (Grk tasting). Explore Smokvica (Pošip vineyards). Overnight Korčula.

Day 8 - Pelješac: Ferry to Orebić. Drive to Ston. Visit Križ winery (Denis Bogoević Marušić) for natural Grk and Plavac Mali. Oyster tasting in Ston.

Day 9 - Primošten: Visit Ivo Matošin (natural Babić, 70-year-old vigneron). Explore Primošten vineyards (UNESCO candidate). Overnight Šibenik or Split.

Day 10 - Split/Departure: Explore Split (Diocletian's Palace), final wine bar visits. Departure from Split airport.