Moravian Soul & Bohemian Spirit
Czech Republic
From the loess hills of Moravia to the volcanic slopes of Bohemia, discover how Czech natural winemakers are reviving 1,200-year-old traditions with Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, and the aromatic Pálava—embracing spontaneous fermentation, skin-contact, and zero sulfur
The Hidden Heart of Central European Wine
Where beer culture meets ancient viticultural tradition
The Czech Republic—known globally as the land of pilsner and beer culture—harbors one of Europe's most exciting and underappreciated natural wine scenes. While 96% of the country's wine comes from the southern region of Moravia, the entire nation is experiencing a natural wine renaissance that combines 1,200 years of history with cutting-edge minimal intervention techniques.
This guide focuses on the pioneers of Czech natural wine—producers who work at the northern edge of viticulture (49th parallel, same as Champagne) with unique local varieties and ancient methods. Milan Nestarec has become the face of the movement internationally, making "normal wines" (as he calls them) from organic vineyards in Velké Bílovice that have gained cult status from Brooklyn to Tokyo. Richard Stávek has been pioneering natural wine since the mid-1990s, working with rare indigenous varieties and zero sulfur.
What unites them is a commitment to Moravia's unique terroir—deep loess soils, continental climate with cool nights, and a tradition of field blends. They work with signature Czech varieties like Pálava (a Gewürztraminer-Müller-Thurgau cross unique to the region), Grüner Veltliner (the most planted variety), and Blaufränkisch (locally called Frankovka), all farmed organically and fermented with native yeasts.
Key Facts
- Location: Central Europe, 49°N latitude
- History: 1,200+ years (9th century origins)
- Key Regions: Moravia (96%), Bohemia (4%)
- Main Grapes: Grüner Veltliner, Pálava, Blaufränkisch, Riesling
- Method: Organic, skin-contact, spontaneous fermentation
- Style: Aromatic, mineral, high acid, field blends
- Notable: Pálava grape found nowhere else
From Great Moravia to the Velvet Revolution
1,200 years of wine history, interrupted by communism, revived by natural wine
The First Wine Legend
The first written mention of Czech wine: Moravian Prince Svatopluk sends a barrel of wine to Czech Prince Bořivoj and his wife Ludmila to celebrate the birth of their son. This gift marked the beginning of viticulture in the Czech lands, though Romans had planted vines as early as the 3rd century.
The Golden Age
Under Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV (who planted Pinot Noir vines from Burgundy), Czech wine reaches European prominence. Monasteries develop sophisticated viticulture. vineyards surround towns and castles. The first appellation system in Moravia is established by Benedictine monk Gregor Wolný in the 18th century.
Communist Decline
Communist collectivization destroys family wineries. Focus shifts to quantity over quality, with heavy use of chemicals and industrial production. Private vineyards are confiscated. The famous wine villages of Velké Bílovice and Vrbice see their traditions suppressed.
The Renaissance
After the Velvet Revolution, vineyards are returned to families. Young winemakers like Richard Stávek begin experimenting with natural methods. The focus shifts back to quality, with new plantings of traditional varieties. The "restitution" period returns land to pre-communist owners.
The Natural Turn
Milan Nestarec converts family vineyards to organic (certified 2022) and begins experimenting with natural winemaking after encounters with producers in Collio (Italy/Slovenia). Richard Stávek pioneers zero-sulfur wines. The natural wine bar scene emerges in Prague and Brno.
International Recognition
Czech natural wine explodes onto the international scene. Milan Nestarec's "Forks & Knives" and White Label wines appear in top natural wine bars from Paris to New York. The Pálava grape gains cult status. Prague becomes a natural wine destination with bars like Veltlin and Na břehu Rhôny.
Loess, Limestone & the 49th Parallel
The unique terroirs shaping Czech natural wine
🏔️ Velkopavlovická
The heart of red wine production in Moravia and home to Milan Nestarec. Deep loess soils (wind-blown silt deposits) over limestone. The region produces structured Blaufränkisch (Frankovka), St. Laurent, and the unique André grape. Continental climate with hot days and cool nights. Village of Velké Bílovice is the largest wine village in the Czech Republic (777 hectares).
🌄 Mikulovská
Home to the famous Pálava hills—limestone outcrops of the Carpathian Mountains with steep south-facing slopes. Deep loess and calcareous clay soils. The warmest sub-region, ideal for aromatic whites. Produces the eponymous Pálava grape, Riesling, and Welschriesling. Historic wine center Mikulov was a key stop on the Amber Road.
🏰 Znojemská
The westernmost sub-region, famous for aromatic whites. Cold winds from the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands meet river influences (Dyje, Jevišovka), creating wines with distinctive spicy character and high acidity. Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, and Müller-Thurgau thrive here. Historic royal town of Znojmo maintains medieval wine cellars.
🌳 Slovácká
Bordering Slovakia and Austria, rich in folklore and traditional "vinohradské búdy" (wine cellars). Very diverse terrain—from Morava River valley to hilly Bílé Karpaty. Traditional variety mix including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Zweigelt. The "Blue Mountains" (Modré Hory) area specializes in red wines.
🏛️ Bohemia
One of the northernmost wine regions in Europe (50°N). Two sub-regions: Mělnická (including vineyards near Prague) and Litoměřická (Bohemian Central Highlands). Volcanic basalt soils in Litoměřice give distinctive mineral character. Historically famous for Pinot Noir allegedly brought by Charles IV from Burgundy. Only 4% of Czech wine production but high quality.
🪨 The Loess Factor
Moravia's defining soil is loess—fine, wind-blown sediment deposited during ice ages. This pale, calcareous soil provides excellent drainage while retaining moisture, creating stress that leads to concentrated flavors. The "genius loci" that Milan Nestarec references is this unique combination of loess, continental climate, and Moravian agricultural tradition.
Key Natural Wine Regions
| Region | Climate | Soil | Natural Wine Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Velkopavlovická | Continental, warm | Deep loess, limestone | Structured reds, field blends |
| Mikulovská | Warm, protected | Loess, calcareous clay | Aromatic whites, Pálava |
| Znojemská | Cool, river influence | Sandstone, loess | High acid, spicy, mineral |
| Slovácká | Varied, diverse | Clay, loam | Traditional, rustic, complex |
| Bohemia | Cool, marginal | Volcanic basalt, sand | Elegant, mineral, rare |
The Featured Producers
The pioneers defining Czech natural wine
Velké Bílovice – The Epicenter
Other Key Producers
The Grapes of Natural Moravia
Grüner Veltliner, Pálava & indigenous treasures
Grüner Veltliner (Veltlínské zelené)
The most planted grape in the Czech Republic (11% of vineyards). Arrived from Austria, adapted perfectly to Moravian loess. Produces dry, fruity wines with peppery notes, almond finish, and high acidity. The "Grüner" character is spicier and more structured than Austrian counterparts due to Moravia's continental climate.
- Style: Dry, peppery, almond, high acid
- Natural Wine Role: Field blends, skin-contact
- Top Producers: Nestarec, Herzanovi, Krasna Hora
- Regions: All Moravian sub-regions
- Notable: "Běl" by Nestarec is benchmark natural Grüner
Pálava
Created in 1953 by Josef Veverka in Velké Pavlovice by crossing Gewürztraminer × Müller-Thurgau. Named after the Pálava hills. Unique to Czech Republic—almost nowhere else grown. Golden color, explosive aromatics of lychee, rose petals, honey, and spice. Can be dry or off-dry. The "Czech rebellion" against international varieties.
- Style: Aromatic, floral, honeyed, spicy
- Natural Wine Role: Skin-contact, dry expressions
- Top Producers: Sonberk, Herzanovi, Reisten
- Regions: Mikulovská (best), others
- Notable: Less spicy than Gewürz, more harmonious
Blaufränkisch (Frankovka)
The noble red of Moravia, known locally as Frankovka. Late-ripening, needs warm sites. Produces structured wines with sour cherry, blackberry, and spice notes, high acidity, and elegant tannins. Originally from Austria but adapted to Moravian terroir. Base for many field blends and the VOC Modré Hory appellation.
- Style: Structured, high acid, red/black fruit
- Natural Wine Role: Field blends, light chillable reds
- Top Producers: Nestarec (Nach), Richard Stávek
- Regions: Velkopavlovická, Slovácká
- Notable: Parent of Cabernet Moravia and André
More Indigenous Treasures
Welschriesling (Ryzlink vlašský): Also called Graševina or Riesling Italico. Most planted white after Grüner. Neutral aromatics, high acid, mineral. Natural producers use it for skin-contact and sparkling wines.
St. Laurent (Svatovavřinecké): Pinot Noir-related red. Early ripening, dark color, cherry and chocolate notes. Used in blends and light reds.
André: Czech crossing (Blaufränkisch × St. Laurent) created in 1960. Deep color, sour cherry, full-bodied. The "new" red variety of Moravia.
Cabernet Moravia: Recent crossing (Zweigelt × Cabernet Franc) from 1995. Dark color, blackcurrant, structured. Shows potential for Moravian reds.
Riesling (Ryzlink rýnský): True Riesling grown mainly in Znojemská. Mineral, high acid, petrol with age. Smaller plantings but increasing quality.
Neuburger: Austrian variety that thrives in Moravia. Full-bodied, nutty, high alcohol potential. Used in blends and skin-contact wines.
Food Pairing & Czech Cuisine
Natural wine meets svíčková, duck, and Moravian spice
Pairings for Grüner Veltliner
- Czech classics: Svíčková (cream sauce), smažený sýr (fried cheese)
- Vegetable: Asparagus with hollandaise, mushroom dishes
- Spicy: Thai green curry, Szechuan pepper dishes
- Local match: Grilovaný hermelín (grilled camembert)
- Seafood: Grilled trout from South Bohemian ponds
Pairings for Blaufränkisch
- Game: Venison, wild boar, duck confit
- Meat: Moravian sparrow (roast pork), beef tongue
- Cheese: Tvarůžky (stinky cheese), aged Olomoucké syrečky
- Local match: Pečená kachna (roast duck) with red cabbage
- Charcuterie: Lovecký salám, uzené maso
Czech Wine Traditions
The Czech Republic has rich wine traditions despite the beer reputation. Svatomartinské (St. Martin's Day, November 11) marks the release of young wines, celebrated with roast goose and the first taste of the new vintage. Velkopavlovická and other regions host "open cellar" days where wine lovers tour traditional "búdy" (wine cellars carved into hillsides). The traditional burčák (fermenting grape must) is consumed in autumn. Natural winemakers are reviving field blends (mixing varieties in vineyard and cellar) and skin-contact whites, connecting to pre-industrial methods. Prague's natural wine bar scene (Veltlin, Na břehu Rhôny, justWine) has created a new culture of "víno jako jídlo" (wine as food)—everyday, accessible, democratic.
Visiting Natural Moravia
From Velké Bílovice to the Pálava hills
🏘️ Velké Bílovice
The largest wine village in the Czech Republic (777 hectares). Visit Milan Nestarec (tastings by appointment, iconic industrial-chic cellar). Explore the "búdy"—traditional wine cellars carved into hillsides. Combine with Richard Stávek nearby in Němčičky. Best time: September (harvest) or May (wine trails).
🏰 Mikulov
Picturesque historic town beneath the Pálava hills. Visit Sonberk (modern architecture in vineyards). Hike the Pálava nature reserve (limestone cliffs). Wine bars in the castle cellars. Combine with Lednice-Valtice UNESCO area. Best time: June (Pálava wine festival) or October.
🌳 Znojmo
Historic royal town with medieval underground cellars. VOC Znojmo appellation system. Visit Špalek (organic, gravity-flow) or Thaya. Tour the labyrinth of underground passages. Best time: September (grape harvest festival).
7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary
Day 1 - Prague: Arrive, explore natural wine bars (Veltlin, Na břehu Rhôny). Overnight Prague.
Day 2 - Bohemia: Day trip to Mělník (Chateau Mělník winery, historic Lobkowicz cellars). Return to Prague.
Day 3 - South Moravia: Drive/train to Brno (2.5 hours). Lunch at Brno wine bar (justWine). Drive to Velké Bílovice.
Day 4 - Velké Bílovice: Visit Milan Nestarec (tasting of Forks & Knives, White Labels, MIRA). Visit Herzánovi (qvevri wines). Cellar hopping in village "búdy." Overnight in Velké Bílovice or nearby pension.
Day 5 - Němčičky & Vrbice: Visit Richard Stávek (zero-sulfur field blends, orange wines). Visit Syfany in Vrbice (acacia barrels, family history). Overnight in Velké Pavlovice.
Day 6 - Mikulov: Visit Sonberk (architecture, Pálava wines). Hike Pálava hills. Wine dinner in Mikulov. Overnight Mikulov.
Day 7 - Znojmo & Departure: Visit Špalek or Thaya. Explore Znojmo underground. Return to Prague (3 hours) or Vienna (1 hour) for departure.