Domaine de CourbissacAliment Wines from Ancient Vines
Brunnhilde Claux crafts food wines from 90-year-old Grenache, 70-year-old Carignan and Cinsault. Gobelet pruning, whole cluster fermentation, concrete élevage—wines of nutrition, not grandeur.
From film producer to vigneronne—Reinhard Brundig meets Brunnhilde Claux
In 2002, Reinhard Brundig, a successful German film producer, founded Domaine de Courbissac in the La Livinière sub-zone of Minervois. Drawn by three things—established and well-tended vines, the complexity of the soils, and the proximity to La Montagne Noire—he planted the seeds for what would become one of Languedoc's most distinctive biodynamic estates [^148^][^171^].
At the end of 2013, Reinhard brought in Brunnhilde Claux, a young vigneronne with an impressive résumé. She had learned her craft at Domaine Gauby in Roussillon, then spent three vintages at Terroir al Limit in Priorat working alongside Dominik Huber. "I found Courbissac when I had nothing left," she recalls. "The Minervois is one of the hardest places for wine... But when I visited, I saw a Romanesque chapel next to the domaine. That little chapel had a big impact on me—this is where I should be" [^171^].
"I never wanted to make grand wines, or big wines. I wanted to make 'aliment' wines—foodie wines—wines that are on the table when people gather around to eat."
The domaine farms 17 hectares of vines at 250-450 meters elevation, perched on the lower slopes of the Montagne Noire where the climate is semi-continental rather than purely Mediterranean. Winter precipitation recharges the soils, sustaining the old vines through dry summers. Brunnhilde took over a treasure: 90-year-old Grenache, 70-year-old Carignan and Cinsault, alongside 40-year-old Syrah and Mourvèdre [^148^][^171^][^172^].
Gobelet pruning, whole bunches, and the art of "aliment"
The old vines at Courbissac are pruned in the traditional gobelet (bush vine) method—free-standing vines shaped like little trees or sculptures, without wires. "It's like the vine has fingers which are spread out," Brunnhilde explains. "Philosophically, for a farmer, it's a lovely notion to be able to sculpt a wine and give it its form. Plus, in the Mediterranean, pruning this way lets you create canopies and give the fruit shade in the sun" [^171^].
Since day one, the estate has been farmed biodynamically (certified Ecocert). Brunnhilde uses minimal copper—perhaps once at the start of mildew pressure—supplemented by sulfur, stinging nettles, horsetail, and Symphytum. She loses entire vintages to mildew rather than poison the soil. "I don't go into my vineyards to get cancer," she says simply. "I go into them with the aim of trying to disturb them as little as possible" [^171^].
In the cellar, the approach is equally gentle: whole cluster fermentation for reds (the stems bring fluidity), concrete tanks for élevage (no oak except 40hl foudres for top cuvées), and minimal extraction (no pigeage or remontage). The most important decision is picking date—grapes must be crunchy, with freshness, even in the Mediterranean heat [^171^].
- Gobelet pruning
- Whole cluster
- Concrete élevage
- No extraction
- Minimal copper
- Aliment philosophy
Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault—patrimony and forgotten varieties
Grenache Noir
The patriarch of the estate. These ancient free-standing vines produce small quantities of concentrated fruit. Traditionally the backbone of Minervois blends, providing warmth and body. Brunnhilde treats it gently to preserve freshness in the hot Mediterranean climate [^148^][^171^].
Carignan
Considered the "Grand Cru" variety at Courbissac. Planted on the best limestone soils at Roc Suzadou. Brunnhilde blends it with Grenache for structure and acidity. These old vines give wine of surprising elegance despite Carignan's rustic reputation [^144^][^175^].
Cinsault
The rising star of the estate. Once dismissed as a blending variety, Brunnhilde celebrates Cinsault's ability to make light, perfumed, energetic red wines. Farradjales is 100% Cinsault from 70-year-old vines—wild strawberry, raspberry, light and energetic [^169^][^171^].
Terret Gris & Listan
Part of the patrimony. Terret Gris—ripening very late (a bonus with climate change)—gives structure to white blends. Listan (Palomino from Andalusia) rarely exceeds 12% alcohol even in the heat, providing freshness and nerve for Les Traverses Blanc [^171^].
Roc Suzadou, Farradjales, Les Traverses—wines for the table, not the pedestal
Roc Suzadou
From the best limestone soils closest to the cellar. A blend of 70-90 year-old Grenache and Carignan. Aged in 40hl foudres (large neutral oak). Deep yet fresh, cranberry and cherry, fine tannins. The top cuvée but still an "aliment" wine—structured yet drinkable. Brunnhilde considers this the domaine's Grand Cru site [^144^][^174^][^175^].
70-90 year vines
40hl foudre
90-93 Points WA
Farradjales
Rarely does Cinsault get its due. From 70-year-old Cinsault on a west-facing hillside at 350-400m elevation, gravelly marl and limestone. Whole cluster, natural yeast, 9-12 day maceration without pigeage or remontage. 6 months in foudre. Velvety red fruits, wild strawberry, winsome spice. Light, energetic, perfumed—proving Cinsault can be a star [^169^][^170^][^171^].
Gravelly marl
Whole cluster
6 months foudre
Les Traverses
Roughly equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from the estate's younger vines. Aged in concrete. The "everyday" red of the domaine—fresh, juicy, Mediterranean. Exactly what Brunnhilde means by "aliment": a wine for daily consumption, honest and unpretentious [^146^][^152^].
Concrete élevage
Younger vines
Daily drinking
L'Orange
From co-planted white varieties: Marsanne, Muscat, Terret Gris, Grenache Gris. Whole cluster fermentation, 9 days skin contact, pressed and returned to tank. Copper-colored, natural light grapeyness from the Muscat. Brunnhilde's approach: "I use whole bunches, just like for the reds. I don't like extraction—without forceful extraction, we give the fruit the utmost respect" [^148^][^154^][^171^].
9 day skin contact
Whole cluster
No extraction
Notre Terre
Launched in 2019 as Brunnhilde's personal expression. A parcel of Grenache Noir and Terret she particularly favors. Red: long maceration (2+ weeks), concrete élevage. White: slow pressing, concrete. Also a rosé and skin-contact white from adjacent parcels. "Notre Terre"—our land—the most important factor in winemaking [^170^][^184^].
Grenache/Terret
2019 launch
Minimal intervention
The Patrimony of Minervois
Domaine de Courbissac represents a different vision of Languedoc—one that rejects the "global wine" model of the 1980s-90s (Cabernet, Merlot, heavy oak) in favor of indigenous varieties, old vines, and "aliment" philosophy. Brunnhilde's wines are 11-12% alcohol, transparent, made for the table rather than the trophy cabinet [^171^].
The estate proves that Minervois—often overlooked in favor of more famous appellations—can produce wines of distinction when farmed with respect for history. The gobelet vines are not just viticultural artifacts; they are "free-standing sculptures" that concentrate sap, create shade, and produce grapes of surprising freshness despite the Mediterranean heat. These are wines that honor the Roman chapel next door and the generations of farmers who tended these vines before [^171^].
- Founded 2002 by Reinhard Brundig
- Brunnhilde Claux since 2013
- 17 hectares La Livinière
- 250-450m elevation
- Ecocert biodynamic
- 90-year-old Grenache
- 70-year-old Carignan
- 70-year-old Cinsault
- Gobelet (bush vine) pruning
- Whole cluster fermentation
- Concrete élevage
- No pigeage/remontage
- Minimal SO2 only at bottling
- Aliment wines (11-12%)