Joy & Intention

The Jeandaugé story begins in the rolling hills of Gascony, in the Gers department of southwestern France — a landscape of old stone houses, vineyards, crops, cows, and woods that feels like stepping back in time to another century. This is a rare part of France where polyculture still dominates, where the land is not yet surrendered to monoculture agriculture, and where the rhythm of life follows the seasons rather than the market. The Fezas family has tended vines here since the 1800s, generation after generation, but the history is not one of prestige or prosperity. Sébastien's father made bulk wine to sell to négociants, earning just 60 cents per litre — a price that reflected not the quality of the wine but the powerlessness of the grower in a system designed to extract rather than reward.

When Sébastien took over Domaine Jeandaugé in 2012, he was inspired by the organic movement and decided to begin converting the family vineyards. The transition was not as difficult as it might have been — his father had been restricted by the price of the wines he was selling, so the vines had never been badly chemically treated (the chemicals themselves were expensive). But the real transformation came in 2018, when a disastrous mildew outbreak brought financial ruin and forced Sébastien to ask a fundamental question: why are my vines so sensitive? Other growers in the area blamed the grass between the vines, but Sébastien didn't listen. Instead, he asked for help from Dominique Andiran, a local biodynamic winemaker who makes fabulous oxidative wines and who is a very kind person. Through that connection, Sébastien discovered biodynamics, took a course, and found that way of looking at things very interesting — it changed everything for him in terms of how he works in the vineyards, as well as on a personal level.

The 2018 vintage, despite its devastation, became the catalyst for a new way of working. Sébastien realised he needed to be spending more time in the vineyards — to be present more. He began buying plant preparations and making his own stinging nettle ferments. He stopped working the soils entirely, preserving their structure and life. He introduced cover crops from a mix of plant seeds bought from a local organic grower, direct-seeded so as not to touch the soil structure. All rows are now covered by grasses and indigenous plants, giving more biomass to the soil. He tries to be as gentle as possible, only rolling the cover crop. He works according to gentle pruning, always thinking of the sap flow, and trains local people whom he hires to work in this manner. When he does need to cut the vines, he only does so after the summer solstice — when the vine changes its annual cycle and becomes less vigorous. If you cut before then, the vine will simply grow a lot more.

The estate today spans 20 hectares (reduced from the original 30) across 7 white varieties and 2 red varieties. Only about 10 hectares are destined for the domaine's own cuvées — the rest is sold to like-minded natural winemakers across France, from the Jurançon to the Loire. This network of growers, formed through courses and shared values, has become a collective of sorts: they helped Sébastien buy a conveyor belt for hand-harvested grapes, and they share methods, ideas, and learnings. It is the perfect solution for Sébastien, who wishes to grow his own label slowly and organically. "I could make so much wine from these vineyards, but that isn't the goal. I want to make interesting small cuvées and stick to making small volumes." The goal is to find a personal balance — more time for himself, more time to work better in the vines that he has. Ultimately, he would be content with around 15 hectares, but he's still figuring it out.

Sébastien Fezas's cellar philosophy is one of radical simplicity and constant experimentation. Since 2020, he has felt confident enough to make all of his wines without any added sulfites — a milestone that reflects both the health of his grapes and his growing understanding of natural winemaking. The cellar is a striking contrast between past and present: on one side, the family's historical concrete tanks (the smallest of which is 180 hectolitres — monuments to the bulk wine era); on the other, Sébastien's much smaller concrete vessels, old oak barrels, and amphorae bought from an artisan potter in Spain. It is, as Sébastien jokes, "a bit complicated to make small vinifications in that big tank!" But the juxtaposition is also symbolic — the old and the new, the bulk and the artisan, the conventional and the experimental, all coexisting in one space.

The signature commitment is no additions — no sulfites, no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no fining agents, no filtration. The wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in a variety of vessels, and bottled with only what the vineyard produced. Sébastien experiments constantly: with skin-contact vinifications for Colombard and Gros Manseng (including a seven-month macerated Colombard, released as a collaboration with Lise & Bertrand Jousset from the Loire), with oxidative Chardonnay aged in barrels on the lees for 1.5 years without being topped up (a Jura-style wine that is so stable it can be left open in the fridge for over a week), with whole-bunch semi-carbonic Tannat, with pét-nat and sparkling wines inspired by Château Laffite in the Jurançon. The conveyor belt — bought with the help of his winemaker network — enables whole bunches of hand-harvested grapes to be moved into the press without being crushed, ensuring clean juice with little oxygenation.

"Partie Fine" — The White Blend: The Partie Fine is Sébastien's flagship white — a blend of around 80% Colombard and Ugni Blanc, directly pressed and then aged in a mix of concrete, amphora, and barrel. The name suggests the best part, the finest cut, the portion reserved for those who appreciate quality. Colombard provides freshness, aromatic intensity, and the typical Gascon character; Ugni Blanc brings tension, acidity, and a kind of structural backbone that helps in warmer vintages. Hand-harvested using the conveyor belt to preserve whole bunches, directly pressed, spontaneously fermented, aged in concrete (for purity), amphora (for texture), and barrel (for complexity). No added sulfites. In the glass, it is pale straw with green reflections and a natural haze. The nose offers green apple, citrus, white flowers, and a distinct mineral, herbal note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, a clean, precise mouthfeel, and a long, refreshing, mineral finish. It is a wine of clarity and joy — the Gascony hills in every sip. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink within 2–3 years for maximum freshness. ~€30–€40 / ~$32–$42.

"La Voile" — The Oxidative Chardonnay: The La Voile is Sébastien's oxidative Chardonnay — a wine inspired by the Jura, aged in barrels on the lees for 1.5 years without being topped up, allowing a veil of yeast (voile) to form on the surface and protect the wine while imparting a nutty, saline, utterly distinctive character. It is a wine of extraordinary stability — "the kind of wine that you can leave open in the fridge for over a week! It's so stable. Everything that has oxidised in that wine has already oxidised, so it holds together very well." Hand-harvested, directly pressed, spontaneously fermented, aged in old barrels under voile. No added sulfites. In the glass, it is golden amber with luminous intensity. The nose offers hazelnut, walnut, dried apricot, and a profound saline, mineral note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with creamy texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, nutty finish. It is a wine of patience and paradox — oxidized yet fresh, aged yet alive. Serve at 10–12°C. Ages 5–10 years. ~€35–€45 / ~$38–$48.

"Franche Lippée" — The Whole-Bunch Tannat: The Franche Lippée is Sébastien's most celebrated red — a whole-bunch semi-carbonic Tannat that reminds tasters of Dard & Ribo in the Rhône. The name suggests frankness, directness, the unvarnished truth of the grape. Tannat is the great red variety of Madiran and the greater Southwest, known for its structure, power, and firm tannins. At Jeandaugé, it is handled with a light touch: hand-harvested, destemmed only slightly (a small portion of grapes put at the bottom of the tank), then whole bunches crush these grapes to produce juice, which creates a natural CO2-rich environment for carbonic-style fermentation. The grapes macerate for around 15 days, after which the wine is aged in concrete and a small portion in old barrels. No added sulfites. In the glass, it is deep ruby with purple reflections. The nose offers dark cherry, wild blackberry, herbs, and a distinct mineral, earthy note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with firm yet elegant tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, slightly spicy finish. It is a wine of energy and joy — proof that Tannat, when treated gently, can be both powerful and approachable. Serve at 14–16°C. Ages 3–7 years. ~€30–€40 / ~$32–$42.

"Pistache" — The Infusion Tannat: The Pistache is Sébastien's newest red cuvée — an infusion-style Tannat that represents his ongoing experimentation with how best to vinify this variety. "I have such a beautiful parcel of Tannat, and the grapes are super. I believe the variety has such potential, so I want to highlight it and really learn how to best vinify it." The name "Pistache" evokes the green, fresh, slightly nutty character of the wine — a lighter, more aromatic, more immediate expression of Tannat than the Franche Lippée. Hand-harvested, gently infused (rather than macerated), aged in concrete or neutral vessels. No added sulfites. In the glass, it is ruby with garnet reflections. The nose offers red cherry, plum, wild herbs, and a subtle mineral note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with soft tannins, lively acidity, and a clean, refreshing, fruit-driven finish. It is a wine of exploration — for those who want to taste Sébastien's learning in real time. Serve at 14–16°C. Drink within 2–4 years. ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$40.

"Rosé" — The Tannat & Syrah: The Rosé is Sébastien's pink wine — made from Tannat with a splash of Syrah, the variety that Sébastien planted himself in 2012. The 2021 vintage was the first rosé since 2017, given how long it took him to sell the initial batch — a humble recognition that building a reputation and market takes time. Hand-harvested, gently pressed, spontaneously fermented, aged in steel. No added sulfites. In the glass, it is salmon-pink with luminous clarity. The nose offers strawberry, rose petal, citrus, and a subtle mineral note. The palate is light, with crisp acidity, a clean, refreshing mouthfeel, and a long, savory finish. It is a wine of patience and persistence — the reward for staying the course. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink young. ~€25–€35 / ~$28–$38.

"Skin-Contact Colombard" — The Orange: The Skin-Contact Colombard is Sébastien's most experimental wine — a collaboration with Lise & Bertrand Jousset from the Loire, made from Colombard macerated on its skins for seven months. This is not a commercial cuvée in the traditional sense but a project — a way of exploring the boundaries of what Gascony whites can become when treated like reds. Hand-harvested, whole-cluster maceration for seven months, spontaneously fermented, aged in amphora or neutral vessels. No added sulfites. In the glass, it is amber-orange with hazy, luminous intensity. The nose offers dried apricot, orange peel, wild honey, and a distinct mineral, earthy note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with gripping texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, tannic finish. It is a wine of radical experimentation — for the adventurous, the curious, the open-minded. Serve at 10–12°C. Ages 3–7 years. Limited availability.

"Sparkling" — The Pét-Nat & Beyond: The Sparkling wines represent Sébastien's growing fascination with bubbles — both pét-nat (méthode ancestrale) and wines made by freezing juice to restart fermentation in the bottle. He has been greatly inspired by Château Laffite in the Jurançon (to whom he also sells grapes), where he tasted a Gros Manseng aged for 15 months sur latte that "tasted like Champagne!" That experience gave him the desire to continue trying to make sparkling wine. "It's a lot of work, sure, but the effort is all worth it when you produce wines like that." The pét-nat is made from Gros Manseng or Chardonnay, hand-harvested, bottled during fermentation, undisgorged or lightly disgorged, with no dosage. In the glass, it is pale gold with a gentle, natural mousse. The nose offers citrus, green apple, white flowers, and a distinct mineral note. The palate is light, refreshing, with vibrant acidity, a clean, precise mouthfeel, and a long, savory finish. It is a wine of celebration and ambition — Gascony reimagined as Champagne. Serve well chilled at 6–8°C. Drink young. ~€28–€38 / ~$30–$40.

Vessels & Ageing: Sébastien works with a constantly evolving array of vessels, each chosen to serve the wine's natural expression. The family's historical concrete tanks — 180 hectolitres and larger — are monuments to the bulk wine past, now largely unused for the domaine's own cuvées. Smaller concrete vessels provide thermal stability and a kind of pure, unadorned expression. Amphorae from an artisan potter in Spain add earthy texture and gentle oxygenation. Old oak barrels contribute complexity and savory depth without masking the fruit. Steel tanks preserve freshness and primary fruit for the rosé and some whites. The common thread is the same radical simplicity that defines everything at Jeandaugé: no additions, no manipulation, no standardization. Just the grape, the yeast, the vessel, and the patience to let Gascony speak. The conveyor belt — a gift from his winemaker network — ensures that hand-harvested whole bunches reach the press intact, preserving the clean juice and minimal oxygenation that natural winemaking demands.