Donkey & Goat

Jared and Tracey Brandt: Pioneers of Natural Winemaking in California

Jared and Tracey Brandt are the founders and winemakers of Donkey & Goat, a trailblazing winery in Berkeley, California, that has been at the forefront of the natural wine movement since its inception in 2004. Their technical approach is rooted in minimal intervention, focusing on expressing the unique terroir of their sourced vineyards, primarily in the Sierra Foothills and Anderson Valley.

Technical Philosophy and Practices:

• Vineyard Sourcing and Farming: The Brandts are meticulous in their vineyard selection, partnering with growers who practice sustainable, organic, or biodynamic farming. They seek out high-altitude, mountainous sites with older vines, which they believe produce grapes with concentrated flavors and balanced acidity. Key vineyards include the Fenaughty and Shake Ridge vineyards in the Sierra Foothills. They work closely with their growers to manage canopy, yield, and ripeness, ensuring the fruit arrives at the winery in pristine condition.

• Winemaking Protocols:

  • Native Yeast Fermentation: All wines at Donkey & Goat are fermented with native, or "ambient," yeasts present on the grape skins and in the cellar. This practice is central to their philosophy, as they believe it contributes to the complexity and unique character of the finished wine, reflecting the specific microbial environment of the vineyard.

  • Minimal Sulfur Dioxide (SO2): The Brandts are known for their extremely low-sulfur regimen. They add a very small amount of SO2, if any, during the winemaking process, typically just before bottling. Their goal is to protect the wine from oxidation and microbial spoilage without sterilizing it, allowing the wine's natural evolution to continue in the bottle.

  • Unfined and Unfiltered: With rare exceptions, Donkey & Goat wines are unfined and unfiltered. This practice preserves the wine's natural texture, color, and flavor compounds, resulting in a more complex and expressive final product. The presence of a small amount of sediment is considered a sign of a natural, living wine.

  • Neutral Vessels: Fermentation and aging are conducted primarily in neutral vessels, such as old French oak barrels, concrete eggs, and stainless steel tanks. This avoids imparting external flavors from new oak and allows the pure fruit and terroir characteristics to shine through. The use of concrete eggs for some of their white wines is particularly notable for its ability to maintain a consistent temperature and promote a natural convection, which helps to build texture and mouthfeel.

  • Whole Cluster Fermentation: For many of their red wines, particularly their Syrah and Grenache, the Brandts employ a significant percentage of whole cluster fermentation. This technique, where the grapes are fermented with their stems, adds layers of savory, spicy, and earthy notes, as well as a structural component from the tannins in the stems.

  • Extended Lees Contact: White wines, such as their Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, are often aged on their lees (spent yeast cells) for extended periods. This practice, known as élevage sur lie, contributes to a creamy texture and nutty complexity while naturally protecting the wine from oxidation.

• Technical Achievements and Impact: The Brandts' steadfast commitment to these technical principles has not only defined the style of Donkey & Goat but has also had a profound influence on the wider natural wine community in California. They have demonstrated that high-quality, stable, and complex wines can be produced without reliance on commercial yeasts, new oak, or excessive chemical additions. Their work has served as a practical blueprint for a generation of winemakers and has helped to educate consumers about the potential for transparency and authenticity in winemaking.