Fedellos do CoutoCurro & Jesús
The brats of Ribeira Sacra—rescuing abandoned vineyards on impossible slopes with whole-cluster, long-maceration wines that taste of schist and Atlantic breeze.
From the cradle to the cliffs—how two Gredos friends and a 12th-century manor changed Ribeira Sacra forever.
Curro Bareño and Jesús Olivares met at university in La Rioja, but their bond runs deeper—they grew up together in Méntrida, their families connected for generations. "We met in the cradle," Curro jokes. They spent their formative years in the Sierra de Gredos with Daniel Landi, learning to make wine from Grenache at altitude before either considered it a career.
In 2011, a friend called Curro for help with a project in Ribeira Sacra. Curro enlisted Jesús, and together they spent three years consulting for Ronsel do Sil—finding vineyards, planting vines, designing labels, and mapping the commercial landscape. By 2013, they knew they had to start something of their own. But how?
Enter Luis Taboada, whose family has owned the Pazo do Couto—an ancient manor dating to the 12th century—since time immemorial. Luis, an astrophysicist by trade, had returned from Tenerife to restore the ruined family home and start a bodega. Curro and Jesús advised him on winemaking; he offered them space to make their own wines. In 2013, their first vintage; by harvest, Luis proposed they join forces. The "brats" (Fedellos) of Couto were born.
"Nothing is impossible"—whole clusters, long macerations, and the revival of abandoned north-facing vineyards.
Many describe Ribeira Sacra's slopes as "impossibly steep," but for Fedellos, nothing is impossible. They embrace the region's abandoned, north- and east-facing vineyards—the ones too cool, too difficult, too shaded for the old-timers who preferred south-facing sites. As the climate warms and dams create morning fog, these "worst" exposures have become the best.
Their winemaking is minimalist but precise: organic farming (with biodynamic principles), hand-harvesting on terraces that require mountain goat agility, native co-fermentations of field-blended varieties, and long, gentle macerations of 40-60 days with whole clusters and very little extraction. They age in concrete and neutral 500L French oak demi-muids.
"Our point of view is to work naturally in the vineyards," Curro explains. They use horsetail and botanical preparations learned from biodynamics. In the cellar, only moderate sulfur is added—nothing else. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, carrying the schist, quartzite, and granite of the Sil and Bibei valleys in every sip.
Slope Masters
The Bibei and Sil valleys—schist, quartzite, and gneiss on terraces that demand handwork and courage.
Valley
Their spiritual home—the river that separates Ribeira Sacra from Valdeorras. Here they work the oldest and steepest vineyards on the west bank, north-facing and east-facing exposures that others abandoned. Slate, quartzite, and gneiss soils dominate.
Terraced Vineyard
A single terraced vineyard in Ribeiras do Sil on decomposed schist slopes near Pazo do Couto. Exclusively Mencía from 30+ year old vines. The shale and alluvial soils with pebbles create structured, dense wines with Atlantic freshness.
Viana do Bolo
Their highest and coldest vineyards, between 600-800 meters on terraces with high mica content that makes the soils shine. Bush vines over 70 years old—Mencía, Gran Negro, Mouratón, Bastardo, Godello, Dona Blanca. Harsh frosts, challenging ripening, extraordinary results.
From the iconic Bastarda to the field-blended Lomba dos Ares—wines that redefine Galician elegance.
Bastarda
Their most iconic wine—100% Bastardo (Merenzao in Valdeorras, Trousseau in the Jura), a variety originating from the Alpine foothills. The name means "illegitimate" or "mischievous," fitting the Fedellos spirit. Hand-harvested, whole cluster, 40-60 day maceration, 7 months in neutral 300-500L French oak. Racy red fruit, spiciness, austerity, and cool character. 95+ WA points consistently.
Lomba dos Ares
The village wine from Manzaneda, their oldest and steepest vineyards on the west bank of the Bibei. A field blend of Mouratón, Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet), and Grao Negro from 60+ year old vines. Native co-fermentation, long maceration, aging in concrete and neutral oak. Dark berries, pomegranate, tree bark, sweet botanicals.
Cortezada
100% Mencía from the Cortezada vineyard—terraced slopes of decomposed schist near Pazo do Couto. Fermented in concrete and aged in 500L neutral French oak. Tight, focused, slightly reductive nose, structured and dense with nice grip. Pure, linear, showing good acidity. The most "serious" of their reds, demanding cellar time.
Conasbrancas
"White fields"—a blend of Godello, Dona Blanca, Albariño, Treixadura, Lado, and Torrontés from 60-80 year old vines. Some parcels see 40 days skin contact (whole bunch), others direct press and fermentation in barriques. Complex, bright, apples and pears with good acidity. Juicy and intense with nice texture. Refined winemaking with careful skin selection.
Peixe da Estrada / Peixes da Rocha
From Viana do Bolo, the roof of Galicia (650-825m). Peixe da Estrada is a village red blend of 90% red and 10% white grapes from bush vines over 70 years old on pure granite with high mica content. Peixes da Rocha comes from their highest vineyards (~850m). Cold, harsh conditions, challenging ripening, extraordinary freshness and minerality.
As Xaras
Mencía from Chandoiro and Larouco in the Val do Bibei—500-600m elevation, 20 year old vines on granitic and metamorphic soils (schist with quartzite). A blend of young vines at 650m and old vines at 550m. Fresh, accessible, and vibrant—an introduction to the Fedellos style at a more approachable price point (~€16).
Testorio
A white wine from old vines (similar age to Conasbrancas, 60-80 years) planted along the Bibei river on schist and gneiss soils. Unlike Conasbrancas, this comes from a specific parish in Manzaneda called Soutipedre. More focused, site-specific expression of the Bibei's white potential. Only ~1,000 bottles produced.
Camándula
Made from Sousón, the region's most powerful and tannic red variety. Requires more bottle ageing than their other reds. Grapes from Córgomo in the Sil valley (Valdeorras), where shale and alluvial soils with pebbles dominate. The most structured wine in their portfolio—dark, brooding, and ageworthy. ~3,000 bottles.
The Brats Who Saved the Slopes
Fedellos do Couto represents a new wave of Ribeira Sacra—one that looked not to the sunny southern exposures prized by previous generations, but to the abandoned north-facing slopes that had become too challenging to farm. As the climate warmed and dam-created fogs changed the microclimate, these "worst" sites revealed themselves to be the best for preserving acidity and elegance.
Their influence extends beyond their bottles. Curro and Jesús have shown that whole-cluster, long-maceration winemaking—learned in the Gredos with Dani Landi—translates perfectly to the schist and granite of Galicia. They have no DO seal (they left the appellation in 2016), yet they have become one of the most sought-after names in Spanish natural wine, proving that great terroir needs no bureaucratic approval.
- Pioneers of north-facing vineyard revival
- Left Ribeira Sacra DO in 2016
- Gredos-style whole cluster long maceration
- Champions of field-blend co-fermentation
- 40-60 day macerations (exceptionally long)
- Rescued abandoned 60-80 year old vines
- Bastarda varietal specialists (95+ WA)
- Work across Ribeira Sacra & Valdeorras