Germany Natural Wine Guide: From Mosel to Franken | Riesling, Silvaner & the New Wave

From Mosel to Franken

Germany

From the steep slate slopes of the Mosel to the ancient terraced vineyards of Franken, discover how Germany's natural winemakers are revolutionizing Riesling, reviving forgotten varieties, and creating wines of crystalline purity and radical authenticity

Riesling Silvaner Orange Wine Pet-Nat Zero Sulfur PIWI

862 AD (Oldest Winery)

102,000 Hectares

13 Wine Regions

62+ Natural Producers

The Land of Precision & Punk

Where ancient tradition meets avant-garde innovation

Germany's natural wine scene represents one of the most fascinating paradoxes in the wine world: a country famous for precision engineering and classical winemaking traditions is now home to some of Europe's most adventurous and punk-rock natural winemakers. From the world's oldest continuously operating winery (Staffelter Hof, founded 862 AD) to cutting-edge experiments with disease-resistant varieties (PIWIs) and vitiforestry, German natural wine spans the entire spectrum from ancient to futuristic.

This guide focuses on the new wave of German natural winemakers—producers who combine organic and biodynamic farming with minimal intervention winemaking. From Jan Matthias Klein's revolutionary PIWI and vitiforestry experiments at Staffelter Hof to Daniel & Jonas Brand's zero-sulfur Pur range in the Pfalz, from Stefan Vetter's terraced Franken masterpieces to Wasenhaus's Burgundian-inspired Baden Pinots, these winemakers are redefining what German wine can be.

What unites them is a commitment to organic or biodynamic farming, native yeast fermentation, minimal or zero sulfur, and an embrace of both tradition (Riesling, Silvaner) and innovation (orange wine, pet-nat, PIWIs). The result is wines that are vibrant, alive, and deeply expressive of Germany's diverse terroirs—from slate to limestone to volcanic soils.

Key Facts

Location: Central Europe
History: Roman times, organized viticulture
Key Regions: Mosel, Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Baden, Franken
Main Grapes: Riesling, Silvaner, Spätburgunder, Müller-Thurgau
Method: Organic, biodynamic, minimal intervention
Style: Precise, mineral, experimental
Notable: World's oldest winery (Staffelter Hof, 862 AD)

From Roman Vines to PIWI Revolution

2,000 years of evolution, 10 years of revolution

1st Century

Roman Introduction

Romans bring viticulture to the Rhine and Mosel valleys. The steep slate slopes of the Mosel prove ideal for wine production, with the river reflecting sunlight and storing heat.

862

Staffelter Hof Founded

The world's oldest continuously operating winery is established in Kröv on the Mosel. Originally a monastery winery, it passes to the Klein family in 1805 after Napoleon secularizes the monasteries. Still operated by the same family today.

18th-19th Century

The Golden Age

German wines, particularly from the Rheingau and Mosel, command prices higher than Bordeaux and Burgundy. The Bocksbeutel bottle becomes iconic for Franken wine. Riesling establishes its reputation as Germany's noble grape.

1960s-1980s

Industrialization & Decline

Post-war industrialization leads to high-yield clones, chemical farming, and mass production. The reputation of German wine suffers internationally due to cheap, sweet Liebfraumilch. Traditional steep slope viticulture becomes economically unviable.

2010s

The Natural Wine Awakening

Young winemakers return to family estates with experience from Burgundy, Austria, and Australia. The Klitzekleine Ring forms to save abandoned steep slope vineyards. Jan Matthias Klein at Staffelter Hof experiments with natural wine; Daniel & Jonas Brand convert to organic; Stefan Vetter revives terraced Franken sites.

2016-Present

The PIWI & Vitiforestry Revolution

Climate change forces innovation. Jan Matthias Klein plants disease-resistant varieties (PIWIs) and launches "The Grape Resistance" label. Vitiforestry—integrating trees into vineyards—becomes a model for sustainable viticulture. Berlin's natural wine scene explodes with bars like Drunk By Nature and Naturales.

"Nature is always the boss." — Klaus Peter Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen

Mosel, Pfalz, Baden & Franken

The diverse terroirs shaping German natural wine

⛰️ Mosel

Steep slate slopes (45-65° gradient) along winding river valleys. Blue Devonian slate dominates, with red slate in some sites. The river moderates temperature and reflects sunlight. Home to the world's oldest winery (Staffelter Hof) and some of Germany's most ageworthy Rieslings. Cool climate produces wines of high acidity and elegance.

🌾 Pfalz

Germany's second-largest wine region, protected by the Haardt Mountains. Warmer and drier than most German regions, with diverse soils: limestone, sandstone, loess, and volcanic. The "Deutsche Weinstraße" (German Wine Road) runs through here. Northern Pfalz (where Brand Bros are) is cooler and more mineral.

🌲 Baden

Germany's warmest and third-largest region, stretching from Heidelberg to the Swiss border. Almost Mediterranean climate allows red wine production (40% of plantings). Volcanic soils in Kaiserstuhl, limestone in Markgräflerland. Wasenhaus and Enderle & Moll produce Burgundian-inspired Pinots here.

🏰 Franken

Main River valley with continental climate, cold winters, warm summers. Keuper soils (ancient stone and minerals) predominate. Famous for Silvaner and the Bocksbeutel (flattened round bottle). Steep, terraced vineyards require hand cultivation. Stefan Vetter and Andi Weigand are reviving abandoned sites here.

🌊 Rheinhessen

Germany's largest wine region, "the land of a thousand hills." Diverse soils: Roter Hang (red slate), limestone, loess, and volcanic. Once known for quantity, now quality-focused with young winemakers experimenting. "Natürlich Weinreich" represents the natural wine movement here.

🌿 The PIWI Revolution

Germany leads Europe in developing disease-resistant grape varieties (PIWIs = Pilzwiderstandsfähige Rebsorten). These crosses reduce spraying by 80-90%. Jan Matthias Klein's "Grape Resistance" project proves they can make serious natural wine. Varieties include Souvignier Gris, Muscaris, Donauriesling, and Satin Noir.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Mosel	Cool, continental	Devonian slate	High acid, elegant, experimental
Pfalz	Warm, protected	Limestone, sandstone, loess	Diverse, mineral, zero-sulfur
Baden	Warm, almost Mediterranean	Volcanic, limestone	Pinot-focused, Burgundian
Franken	Continental, cold winters	Keuper, limestone	Silvaner, terraced, ancient
Rheinhessen	Mild, varied	Red slate, limestone, loess	Experimental, diverse varieties
Württemberg	Warm, sunny	Keuper, limestone	Red wine focus, Trollinger

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining German natural wine

Mosel – The Ancient & The Future

Jan Matthias Klein

Staffelter Hof, Kröv, Mosel

7th generation winemaker at the world's oldest continuously operating winery (founded 862 AD). Took over cellar in 2014 after internships in Australia, New Zealand, and France. Converted to organic (certified 2014) and biodynamic practices. Makes two lines: classical (organic) and natural wines (cartoon-like labels, zero sulfites). Split is now 50:50. Pioneer of PIWI (disease-resistant) varieties and vitiforestry—integrating trees into vineyards. Planted Portuguese varieties (Arinto, Fernão Pires) and created "The Grape Resistance" label from 6-hectare Paradies vineyard with 2.8 hectares of PIWIs. Collaborates with agroforestry consultant Nicolas Haack. Goal: create sustainable, biodiversity-rich vineyards that inspire others. Also makes natural cider from 5 indigenous Franconian apple varieties.

Since 862 AD 7th Generation PIWI Pioneer Vitiforestry

Rita & Rudolf Trossen

Weingut Trossen, Kinheim, Mosel

Pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in the Mosel since 1978 (certified by Demeter). Converted to organic in 1977, then biodynamic, making them one of the first in Germany. Rudolf Trossen is a legend of the German natural wine movement. Known for "Pyramid" wines—Riesling fermented and aged in pyramid-shaped vessels based on esoteric principles. Also make excellent Pinot Noir and Elbling. Minimal sulfur, native yeast, long aging. The estate represents the spiritual, philosophical side of natural winemaking in Germany.

Since 1978 Demeter Certified Biodynamic Pioneer Pyramid Wines

Pfalz – The Pur Movement

Daniel & Jonas Brand

Brand Bros - Weingut Brand, Bockenheim, Northern Pfalz

5th generation, took over in 2014. Estate founded 1891 as mixed agriculture. Daniel studied winemaking; Jonas apprenticed in Austria and France (including with Lise and Bertrand Jousset in Montlouis). Converted 18 hectares to organic (certified 2018), using biodynamic treatments. Two ranges: "Classic" (wild yeast, light filtration, minimal sulfur) and "Pur" (wild yeast, unfined, unfiltered, zero sulfur). Pur range includes "Wilder Satz" (field blend), "Helden" (Riesling), and "Böser Wolf" (Spätburgunder). Labels drawn by grandmother Helga. Cool climate northern Pfalz with limestone soils at 350m elevation. Focus on understanding each plot separately.

5th Generation Organic Certified Zero Sulfur Pur Range Family Art

Sabine & Philipp Wöhrwag

Müller-Ruprecht, Gimmeldingen, Pfalz

Young couple revitalizing historic Müller-Ruprecht estate (founded 1702, split from Koehler-Ruprecht in late 1800s). Both families farm prime Saumagen vineyard. Certified organic, hands-off winemaking, native yeast, minimal sulfur. Make 30+ bottlings including single-vineyard Rieslings (Trocken to Spätlese), "naturals" line with bold labels and deep color, orange wine (Huxelrebe, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay blend with 10 days skin contact), and "Vampire Soda" Pet-Nat (100% Dornfelder, carbonic maceration, 9.5% ABV). Focus on local market and tasting room rather than export—"we want to meet the people who drink our wines." Playful, vibrant, family-friendly approach with kids roaming the cellar.

Since 1702 Organic Orange Wine Pet-Nat

Lukas Krauß

Weingut Krauss, Pfalz

Natural winemaker in Pfalz focusing on minimal intervention wines. Part of the new generation of German natural winemakers working with indigenous varieties and creative techniques. Specific details limited but recognized in Raisin's natural winemaker directory for Pfalz.

Pfalz Natural Minimal Intervention

Baden – Burgundian Inspiration

Christoph Wolber & Alexander Götze

Wasenhaus, Staufen, Markgräflerland, Baden

Founded in 2016 after meeting in Burgundy—Alex worked at Pierre Morey and de Montille, Christoph at Leflaive, Bernhard van Berg, Domaine de la Vougeraie, and Comte Armand. Returned to Germany to create artisanal Pinot-focused winery in Christoph's hometown. Work with old parcels (some planted 1965) on limestone similar to Burgundy, plus volcanic soils at Kaiserstuhl. Approximately 2.5 hectares owned, supplemented by organic neighbors. Hand harvest, natural fermentation (some carbonic), minimal intervention, stem inclusion on reds. Aged in old French oak, unfined, unfiltered. Sulfur used judiciously (30-50ppm total) after malolactic for smoother tannin integration. Serious, pure, terroir-driven wines with finesse. Tiny production, ages incredibly well.

Since 2016 Burgundy Trained Pinot Focus Minimal Sulfur

Florian Moll & Max Lecat

Enderle & Moll, Baden-Württemberg

Cult natural wine producers in Baden-Württemberg. Known for "Liaison" Pinot Noir—100% natural, no added sulfites (55 mg/L). Focus on Pinot Noir with "taunting complexity" (Wine Enthusiast). Part of the Baden natural wine movement emphasizing low intervention and terroir expression. Specific vineyard and technique details limited, but recognized as top natural producers in the region.

Baden Pinot Noir Zero Added Sulfites Cult Status

Hanspeter & Edel Ziereisen

Weingut Ziereisen, Baden

Top Baden producers offering unique, unfiltered red and white wines aged in wooden barrels. Recognized as "rebels" and pioneers of the high-quality Landwein movement in Baden and across Germany. Focus on terroir expression through minimal intervention and traditional aging.

Baden Unfiltered Landwein Pioneer Rebel Status

Franken – The Terraced Revolution

Stefan Vetter

In Vino Vita, Franken

"F-ing punk rock" winemaker at forefront of German natural wine movement. Works only old vines on steep, terraced sites—everything by hand. Slow, careful, methodical attention to detail. Picks earlier for ripe, clean grapes with higher acidity. Gentle pressing with old screw or basket press (4-6 hours). Juice sees short skin contact then moved to old barrels (some new 300-600L Stockinger). Topped off during élevage, bottled without filtering with minuscule sulfur. Also makes natural cider from 5 indigenous Franconian apple varieties (Winterrambur, etc.). Physically drawn to old terraced sites, wants to work them and save them. Feels the greatness and history, willing to do hard work to let it show. Changing Franken's reputation one old vine at a time.

Franken Old Vines Steep Terraces Punk Rock

Andi Weigand

Iphofen, Franken

Began making wine in early twenties; 2015 shifted family's 10 hectares to new phase of farming and natural wine. Certified organic since 2017—important for transparency. Keuper soil (ancient stone and minerals) makes wines herbal, crisp, fresh. Cover crops adjusted yearly based on soil needs: buckwheat, borage, sunflowers, parsley. Aged in large local oak barrels plus amphorae for skin contact wines. Predominantly Silvaner, some 50 years old. "Zusammen" (collaboration with importer Jenny Lefcourt) blends 45% Scheurebe, 25% Riesling, 20% Müller-Thurgau, 10% Silvaner—lively, zippy, peach and lemon. "Amphora" is Müller-Thurgau and Bacchus, 9 months whole bunch maceration in amphora—textural, tart fruit, popcorn notes. Silvaner from 50+ year old vines: direct pressed to 10-year-old 1250L barrels, spontaneous ferment, 10 months on lees—light white flowers, fresh, lifted, deep.

Since 2015 Organic Certified Amphora Old Vine Silvaner

Michael Völker & Melanie Drese

2Naturkinder, Volkach, Franken

Former travelers turned full-time natural winemakers. After years living in different cities, moved back to Bavaria to join Michael's father's winery. Converted conventional plots to organic and biodynamic, created new line of products. Now entire production is low intervention, organic/biodynamic, zero additives. 7 hectares in Kitzingen, center of Franconian wine production. "Drei Freunde" (Three Friends) blends Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, and Silvaner with skin contact, bottled without fining or sulfur. "Wilde Heimat" orange wine. Labels feature abundant local wildlife with special attention to bats—rare grey long-eared bat lives in cottage in vineyards, important for ecosystem (feasts on moths, produces guano for fertilizer). Part of earnings support bat preservation. Urban winery approach with dedication to nature.

Urban Winery Biodynamic Zero Additives Wildlife Conservation

Rheinhessen – The Experimental Zone

Bianka & Daniel Schmitt

Weingut Bianka und Daniel Schmitt, Rheinhessen

Natural wine producers in Rheinhessen making "Riesling Brut Natur" (sparkling, no sulfites added) and other experimental wines. Part of the "Natürlich Weinreich" (Natural Wine Empire) movement in Rheinhessen. Focus on minimal intervention and creative techniques.

Rheinhessen Natural Pet-Nat Zero Sulfur

Philipp Freitag

Weingut Freitag, Gau-Weinheim, Rheinhessen

Family winery managing 35 hectares in Rheinhessen. Part of the new generation of German winemakers exploring natural wine techniques while maintaining family traditions. Specific natural wine focus details limited, but included in Raisin's natural winemaker directory.

Rheinhessen Family Estate 35 Hectares

Kai Schätzel & Jule Eichblatt

Weingut Schätzel, Rheinhessen

Innovative Rheinhessen producers working with natural methods. Part of the younger generation transforming Germany's largest wine region from quantity to quality focus. Specific details limited but recognized in natural wine circles.

Rheinhessen Innovative Young Generation

"We want to inspire people to do the same. We want to bring people here to see it, learn about it and talk about it and spread the ideas." — Jan Matthias Klein, on vitiforestry and sustainable viticulture

The Grapes of Natural Germany

Riesling, Silvaner, Spätburgunder & the PIWI revolution

White Variety • The King

Riesling

Germany's most important grape, accounting for 23% of plantings. Thrives in cool climates and slate soils. Naturally high acidity, aromatic, capable of expressing terroir with precision. Natural winemakers emphasize dry styles, longer skin contact, and minimal sulfur.

Style: Citrus, stone fruit, petrol (with age), mineral
Natural Wine Role: Extended skin contact, zero sulfur
Top Producers: Staffelter Hof, Brand Bros, Trossen
Regions: Mosel, Rheinhessen, Pfalz
Notable: Can age for decades in natural versions

White Variety • The Franken Star

Silvaner

Ancient variety (possibly from Austria), Franken's signature grape. World's largest plantings in Rheinhessen. Neutral aroma, high acidity, expresses terroir purely. Often called "the thinking person's wine" for its subtlety.

Style: Herbal, mineral, subtle, fresh
Natural Wine Role: Old vine expressions, skin contact
Top Producers: Stefan Vetter, Andi Weigand, 2Naturkinder
Soil: Keuper, limestone
Notable: 50+ year old vines in Franken

Red Variety • The Burgundian

Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

Germany's most planted red grape (11% of total), thriving in warmer regions like Baden and Pfalz. Cool climate expressions are elegant and mineral; warmer sites produce richer wines. Natural winemakers favor whole bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, and minimal extraction.

Style: Red cherry, earthy, spicy, elegant
Natural Wine Role: Whole bunch, carbonic, low sulfur
Top Producers: Wasenhaus, Enderle & Moll, Ziereisen
Regions: Baden, Pfalz, Ahr
Notable: Ahr Valley produces Germany's most structured Pinots

The PIWI Revolution & Ancient Varieties

Germany leads Europe in disease-resistant grape development

Souvignier Gris: PIWI cross of Seyval Blanc × Zähringer. White variety with Sauvignon Blanc-like character but disease resistant. Jan Matthias Klein's "The Grape Resistance" label features this variety.

Muscaris: Aromatic PIWI cross (Solaris × Gelber Muskateller). Muscat character with fungal resistance. Used in natural blends and orange wines.

Donauriesling: PIWI cross for Riesling lovers. Maintains Riesling character with 80% less spraying. Part of the sustainable viticulture future.

Satin Noir: PIWI red variety. Disease resistant, suitable for organic farming without copper treatments.

Elbling: Ancient variety (possibly Roman), nearly extinct. High acidity, neutral character, perfect for pet-nat and sparkling wines. Trossen and Staffelter Hof champion it.

Scheurebe: Cross of Riesling × Bukettrebe. Aromatic, grapefruit and blackcurrant notes. Andi Weigand uses it in his "Zusammen" blend.

Bacchus: Cross of (Silvaner × Riesling) × Müller-Thurgau. Aromatic, early ripening, floral. Popular in natural wine blends for its exuberance.

Food Pairing & German Gastronomy

Natural wine meets hearty German cuisine

Pairings for Riesling

High acid, mineral, versatile

Spicy foods: Thai, Indian, Sichuan cuisine
Pork: Schnitzel, roast pork with crackling
Fish: Smoked trout, pickled herring
Cheese: aged Bergkäse, goat cheese
Vegetarian: Spätzle, potato dishes
Local match: Handkäse mit Musik (marinated cheese)

Pairings for Silvaner

Herbal, subtle, mineral

Asparagus: The classic German pairing
White fish: Simply prepared, with herbs
Vegetable dishes: Green beans, peas
Light meats: Veal, chicken
Cheese: Fresh cheeses, young goat
Local match: Grüne Soße (green sauce) with potatoes

The Berlin Natural Wine Scene

Where German natural wine meets urban culture

Berlin has become one of Europe's natural wine capitals, with a vibrant scene of bars, restaurants, and shops dedicated to low-intervention wines. Drunk By Nature (opened 2022) is a "micro wine bar" with just 14 seats, focusing on minimal intervention wines and a "microscopic level of detail." Naturales (opened 2023) is a natural wine bar and shop in Neukölln with weekly changing wine lists and a focus on "organic, biodynamic, and natural wines." These venues serve as hubs for the German natural wine community, hosting tastings, meet-the-maker events, and fostering a culture of wine exploration that bridges traditional German wine regions with urban sophistication.

Visiting Natural Germany

From the steep slate of Mosel to the terraced hills of Franken

⛰️ Mosel

Base yourself in Kröv or Bernkastel-Kues. Visit Staffelter Hof in Kröv to see the world's oldest winery and taste Jan Matthias Klein's PIWI experiments and natural wines. Weingut Trossen in Kinheim offers biodynamic pyramid wines. Combine with hiking the steep slate vineyards and visiting Roman wine presses. Best time: September-October (harvest).

🌾 Pfalz

Stay in Bockenheim or Deidesheim. Visit Brand Bros for zero-sulfur Pur wines and grandmother's art labels. Müller-Ruprecht in Gimmeldingen offers orange wines and Vampire Soda Pet-Nat. The Pfalz is warmer and more Mediterranean than other German regions—combine wine tasting with cycling the Deutsche Weinstraße. Best time: May-June or September.

🏰 Franken

Base in Iphofen or Volkach. Visit Stefan Vetter's terraced vineyards and taste old-vine Silvaner. Andi Weigand offers amphora wines and collaborations. 2Naturkinder in Volkach combines urban winery with wildlife conservation. Explore the Bocksbeutel bottle tradition and Keuper soil terroir. Best time: September (Bavarian wine month).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1-2 - Berlin: Arrive, explore natural wine bars Drunk By Nature and Naturales. Meet the German natural wine community.

Day 3-4 - Mosel: Drive/train to Kröv (6 hours). Visit Staffelter Hof, taste PIWI wines and natural Riesling. Hike steep slate vineyards. Overnight in Kröv.

Day 5 - Mosel: Visit Weingut Trossen for biodynamic pyramid wines. Continue to Pfalz (2 hours). Overnight in Bockenheim.

Day 6-7 - Pfalz: Visit Brand Bros for Pur range tasting. Müller-Ruprecht for orange wine and Pet-Nat. Cycle the Deutsche Weinstraße. Overnight in Deidesheim.

Day 8 - Baden: Drive to Staufen (1.5 hours). Visit Wasenhaus for Burgundian-style Pinots. Continue to Franken (3 hours). Overnight in Iphofen.

Day 9 - Franken: Visit Stefan Vetter and Andi Weigand. Tour terraced vineyards, taste amphora-aged Silvaner. Visit 2Naturkinder in Volkach.

Day 10 - Return: Return to Berlin or Frankfurt for departure (4-5 hours).