The Asureti Valley & the Architect's Cellar

The story of Gotsa Wines begins not in the present, but in the late 19th century, when Konstantin Gotsadze (1860–1940) — the great-grandfather of the current winemaker — started making wine in his cellars in the village of Tskhratskharo, in the Zestafoni district of Western Georgia. This was a time when Georgian winemaking was still entirely domestic, when every family with land made wine in the autumn and every cellar was a marani filled with qvevris buried in the earth. Konstantin was not a commercial producer; he was a steward of tradition, passing down methods that had remained unchanged for centuries — wild fermentation in clay, no additives, no manipulation, just the grape and the earth.

In the early 20th century, the Gotsadze family moved to Tbilisi, Georgia's capital, and continued making traditional wines in the city. The tradition survived the Soviet era — a period when private winemaking was suppressed and industrial production dominated — and was handed down through generations. The current custodian of this legacy is Beka Gotsadze, an architect by training and a winemaker by calling. Beka represents a fascinating archetype of the new Georgian wine movement: the educated professional who returns to the land not out of nostalgia but out of conviction, bringing with him the precision of an architect's eye and the creative fearlessness of someone who has spent years designing spaces before designing wines.

In 2012, Beka planted the Gotsa vineyard in the Asureti Valley of Kvemo Kartli, within the boundaries of the Algeti National Park. It was a deliberate choice of location — not the famous Kakheti to the east, nor the trendy Imereti to the west, but the undervalued, historic Kartli region, where the continental climate, volcanic soils, and isolation from other vineyards created perfect conditions for biodynamic viticulture. He planted 22,000 vines across 14 different indigenous Georgian grape varieties, creating a living archive of Georgian viticultural biodiversity. There are no other vineyards for kilometres — Gotsa sits alone in the forest, surrounded by oak trees, wild grasses, and the silence of the national park.

The Gotsa winery and cellar — the marani — is located in Kiketi, at 1,300 metres above sea level, in the very place where historical tradition says the Georgian Kings had their favourite wines vinified. The cellar is not merely a production facility; it is an architectural statement. Designed by Beka with natural materials and environmental harmony in mind, it reflects his background in architecture and his commitment to working with, rather than against, the landscape. Around 40 qvevris are buried in the cellar, divided between fermentation and ageing chambers. The cool mountain conditions are perfect for natural winemaking — stable temperatures, natural humidity, and the slow, patient transformation of grape into wine that qvevri fermentation demands.

Since the first commercial vintage in 2015, Gotsa has grown from a family project into one of Georgia's most respected natural wine estates. Certified organic in 2017 (Kiwa BCS, GE-BIO-141) and Demeter biodynamic in 2018, the estate has become a benchmark for quality and innovation in Georgian natural wine. Beka experiments constantly — with skin and stem maceration, with blends of Eastern and Western Georgian varieties, with ancestrale sparkling wines, with flor-affected wines, with fortified wines, even with cider and beer. The label art is created by his brother Temo Gotsadze, giving every bottle a visual identity as distinctive as its liquid contents. Gotsa is a member of the Georgian Natural Wine Association and a regular participant in international fairs such as RAW WINE and Real Wine Fair. The wines are exported to the U.S., U.K., Japan, France, Scandinavia, and beyond. Visitors are welcomed by appointment for tastings, vineyard tours, and cellar visits — an experience of traditional Georgian hospitality filtered through biodynamic rigour and architectural beauty.

At Gotsa Wines, the winemaking philosophy is one of absolute minimal intervention and maximum respect for the living processes of fermentation — a commitment to expressing the distinct volcanic terroir of the Asureti Valley and the unique character of 14 indigenous Georgian varieties through ancient techniques, biodynamic timing, and architectural precision. All wines are fermented and aged in traditional qvevris — around 40 large buried clay amphorae divided between fermentation and ageing chambers in the Kiketi mountain cellar. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts exclusively. No commercial yeasts. No enzymes. No additives of any kind. No fining. No filtration. No stabilization. Sulfur is used only to sterilise qvevri vessels before use, by burning sulfur candles; no sulfur powder is ever added to the wine itself. This is as close to pre-industrial winemaking as it is possible to get in the 21st century — and it produces wines of extraordinary vitality, clarity, and energy.

The vinification style is both deeply traditional and highly experimental. Beka Gotsadze works with skin and stem maceration, varying the length and intensity depending on the variety and the desired style. He combines grapes from Eastern and Western Georgia in blends that cross regional boundaries — something historically rare in Georgian winemaking, where regions typically worked only with their local varieties. He produces white wines without skin contact, amber wines with extended maceration, red wines with full qvevri fermentation, rosé wines with brief skin contact, and ancestrale sparkling wines made with natural secondary fermentation in bottle. He has even experimented with flor-affected wines (wines aged under a veil of yeast, like Sherry), fortified wines, cider from local apples, and beer. This is not a winery that follows convention; it is a winery that invents new conventions while honouring the old ones.

"Chinuri" — The Structured Amber: The Chinuri is one of Gotsa's signature wines — an amber-style wine made from the Chinuri grape with extended skin contact in qvevri. Chinuri is the leading white variety of the Kartli region, known for its high acidity and quince character; at Gotsa, it is transformed through skin contact into a wine of textural depth, phenolic structure, and complex aromatics. In the glass, it is deep amber with a slight haze. The nose offers floral and herbal aromatics — dried flowers, wild herbs, quince, and a distinct mineral note from the volcanic soils. The palate is structured and mineral, with tannic grip, vibrant acidity, and a long, savoury finish that speaks of the Algeti forest and the qvevri's slow micro-oxygenation. It is a wine of both power and elegance — the kind of amber wine that proves why Georgia invented this style 8,000 years ago. Serve at 12–14°C. Drink young to medium term. ~€20–€30 / ~$22–$33 USD.

"Rkatsiteli" — The Deep Amber: The Rkatsiteli is Gotsa's most profound and complex amber wine — made from Georgia's most widely planted white variety, but treated with the respect and patience usually reserved for the finest reds. The grapes undergo long maceration on skins in qvevri, developing a deep amber hue, complex phenolic texture, and a bouquet that evolves continuously in the glass. In the glass, it is copper-amber with a slight haze. The nose offers dried apricot, orange peel, walnut, honey, and a distinct earthy, smoky note from the volcanic terroir. The palate is full-bodied, with pronounced tannins, high acidity, and a long, complex, savoury finish that seems to unfold in layers. It is a wine for contemplation — a bridge between ancient Kakhetian tradition and the volcanic soils of Kvemo Kartli. Serve at 14–16°C. Age 5–10 years. ~€22–€32 / ~$24–$35 USD.

"Saperavi" — The Dense, Dark Red: The Saperavi is Gotsa's flagship red — a qvevri-aged wine made from Georgia's most famous indigenous red variety, the "teinturier" grape with red flesh and red juice. Unlike many commercial Saperavis that rely on oak and extraction, Gotsa's version is fermented and aged in qvevri with natural wild yeasts, producing a wine of dense, dark fruit expression with natural freshness and no added heaviness. In the glass, it is deep purple-black with violet reflections. The nose offers blackberry, black cherry, plum, black pepper, and a smoky, earthy undertone from the basalt soils. The palate is full-bodied, with firm but ripe tannins, high acidity, and a long, clean, mineral finish. It is a wine of both power and poise — proving that Saperavi does not need oak to express its grandeur, only time, clay, and patience. Serve at 16–18°C. Decant if possible. Age 5–12 years. ~€25–€38 / ~$28–$42 USD.

"Tavkveri" — The Vibrant Light Red: The Tavkveri is Gotsa's most joyful and approachable red — a light-bodied wine made from the Tavkveri grape, an indigenous Kartli variety that produces fresh, low-tannin wines with bright acidity and red fruit character. At Gotsa, it is fully qvevri-fermented with wild yeasts, capturing the grape's natural vibrancy and the forest's aromatic complexity. In the glass, it is medium ruby with bright clarity. The nose offers cherry, forest fruit, wild strawberry, and a hint of spice — the kind of bouquet that makes you think of walking through the Algeti oak forest in autumn. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, soft tannins, and a long, refreshing, fruity finish. It is the perfect introduction to Gotsa's style — authentic, alive, and unmistakably Georgian. Serve at 12–14°C. Drink young. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28 USD.

"Tsitska-Tsolikouri" — The Western Blend: The Tsitska-Tsolikouri is Gotsa's bridge to Western Georgia — a blend of two of Imereti's most important white varieties, made with the precision of Kartli and the energy of the west. Tsitska provides acidity and citrus; Tsolikouri provides body and stone fruit. Together, they create a wine that is energetic, saline, and deeply refreshing — a white wine that proves not all Georgian whites need skin contact to be compelling. In the glass, it is pale straw with bright clarity. The nose offers lemon, green apple, white flowers, and a distinct saline, mineral note. The palate is medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, a silky texture, and a long, clean, refreshing finish. It is a wine of elegance and energy — the kind of wine that pairs perfectly with Imeretian cuisine or simply with good bread and cheese. Serve at 8–10°C. Drink young. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28 USD.

"Merchant's Blend" (Kisi & Khikhvi) — The Aromatic Amber: The Merchant's Blend is one of Gotsa's most celebrated wines — a gorgeous Georgian amber made from Kisi and Khikhvi, two aromatic indigenous varieties from Kakheti. It is textured, with notes of bergamot and stone fruit, and is widely regarded as a gold standard for amber wines. Kisi provides exotic perfume and floral intensity; Khikhvi adds structure and mineral depth. Together, they create a wine of extraordinary complexity and balance — an amber wine that manages to be both powerful and graceful, ancient and utterly modern. In the glass, it is deep amber-gold with a slight haze. The nose offers bergamot, dried apricot, honey, wild herbs, and a distinct smoky, volcanic minerality. The palate is textured and tannic, with vibrant acidity, phenolic grip, and a long, complex, savoury finish. It is a wine for the adventurous and the discerning — proof that Georgian amber wine belongs on the world's finest tables. Serve at 12–14°C. Drink young to medium term. ~€22–€32 / ~$24–$35 USD.

"Ancestrale Sparkling" — The Pet-Nat Revolution: Gotsa's ancestrale sparkling wines represent the estate's most playful and innovative side — pet-nat wines made from white, amber, and red varieties, fermented with natural yeasts and bottled during primary fermentation to capture their effervescence naturally. These are not method champenoise wines; they are method ancestrale — the oldest form of sparkling wine production, where the wine finishes fermentation in the bottle, creating a gentle, natural fizz with no added sugar, no added yeast, and no disgorgement. The result is wines of extraordinary freshness, vitality, and slight "funk" — alive, unfiltered, and utterly charming. The white version offers citrus and floral notes with a creamy mousse; the amber version adds tannic texture and dried fruit complexity; the red version is a revelation — a sparkling red that is both serious and joyful. Serve at 6–8°C. Drink young. ~€20–€30 / ~$22–$33 USD.

Vessels & The Cellar: The Gotsa cellar in Kiketi is a place of both ancient tradition and architectural innovation — a mountain marani at 1,300 metres above sea level, surrounded by oak forest, housing around 40 traditional qvevris. The cellar is divided into fermentation and ageing chambers, each designed by Beka Gotsadze to maximise natural temperature stability and humidity. The qvevris are large, beeswax-lined clay amphorae, buried deep in the earth — vessels that have been used in Georgia for 8,000 years and that provide the perfect environment for natural fermentation and ageing. The cool mountain conditions slow everything down: fermentation is gentle, ageing is patient, and the resulting wines have a clarity and energy that is impossible to achieve in warmer, more hurried cellars. There is no stainless steel at Gotsa — Beka explicitly rejects it. There is no technology, no rushing, no forcing. Just wild yeasts, ancient clay, volcanic grapes, forest air, and the passage of time. As Beka tends his 10,000–20,000 bottles each year, he is not merely making wine; he is continuing a conversation that began with his great-grandfather Konstantin in Tskhratskharo, and that now unfolds in the oak forests of Kiketi, at the intersection of architecture, biodynamics, and ancient Georgian tradition.