Greece Natural Wine Guide: Mythic Vines & Mediterranean Soul | Assyrtiko, Xinomavro & the Aegean Revival

Mythic Vines & Mediterranean Soul

Greece

From the volcanic caldera of Santorini to the mountain slopes of Macedonia, discover how Greece's natural winemakers are reviving 4,000-year-old traditions with indigenous varieties like Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, and Vidiano—fermenting with native yeasts, embracing skin-contact, and zero sulfur

Assyrtiko Xinomavro Retsina Orange Wine Biodynamic Volcanic

4,000 Years of Winemaking

200+ Indigenous Varieties

6,500 Islands

PDOs 33 Protected Origins

The Cradle of Wine Civilization

Where ancient mythology meets modern natural wine

Greece's natural wine scene represents one of the most dynamic and ancient movements in the Mediterranean, rooted in traditions that date back over 4,000 years. As the birthplace of Dionysus and the source of the first named wine regions (Chalkidike in Homer), Greece possesses an unparalleled viticultural heritage. Today, a new generation of Greek winemakers is reviving these ancient practices—fermenting with indigenous yeasts, embracing skin-contact whites, and practicing biodynamic viticulture on volcanic soils and mountain slopes.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Greek natural wine—producers who combine ancient methods with modern minimal intervention. From Tatsis Winery (Greece's first certified organic and biodynamic producer) in Goumenissa to Thymiopoulos Vineyards' pure Xinomavro expressions in Naoussa, from Sclavos Wines' old-vine Robola on Kefalonia to Kamara Estate's natural Retsina revolution near Thessaloniki, these winemakers are redefining Greek wine.

What unites them is a commitment to indigenous Greek varieties—Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Moschofilero, Vidiano, Liatiko, and Roditis—grown organically or biodynamically and crafted with zero or minimal sulfur, native yeasts, and often extended skin-contact. The result is wines of profound authenticity, expressing Greece's diverse terroirs from volcanic islands to mountain highlands.

Key Facts

Location: Southern Europe, Balkan Peninsula
History: 4,000+ years (Minoan origins)
Key Regions: Santorini, Naoussa, Nemea, Crete, Kefalonia
Main Grapes: Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Vidiano
Method: Amphora, organic, biodynamic, minimal intervention
Style: Indigenous, volcanic, saline, structured
Notable: First EU organic certification (Tatsis)

From Minoan Amphorae to Natural Renaissance

Millennia of wine history, decades of revival

2000 BCE

Minoan Beginnings

Archaeological evidence of winemaking on Crete dates back 4,000 years. The Minoans establish viticulture traditions and trade wine throughout the Mediterranean. Amphora fermentation and storage become standard practice. The "Vaphio cups" depict grape harvesting scenes.

800 BCE - 300 CE

Classical Antiquity

Greek colonists spread viticulture throughout the Mediterranean. Homer mentions "Chalkidike" wine. The Greeks develop the pruning knife and study wine academically. Resinated wine (proto-Retsina) appears as a method of preservation. Symposium culture elevates wine to philosophical and artistic realms.

1453-1821

Ottoman Era

Under Ottoman rule, Greek winemaking continues but faces restrictions. Many vineyards shift to raisin production. Tsipouro (pomace brandy) becomes widespread. Traditional "kouloura" basket pruning developed on Santorini to protect vines from wind.

1997-2002

The Organic Revolution

The Tatsis brothers in Goumenissa become the first Greek winery to achieve organic certification (1997), later adding Demeter biodynamic certification (2002). Sclavos Winery on Kefalonia follows with organic practices. This marks the beginning of modern natural wine in Greece.

2010-2015

Natural Wine Emergence

Domaine Ligas (Pella) and Thymiopoulos Vineyards (Naoussa) begin experimenting with zero-sulfur wines and extended skin-contact. The "Retsina Renaissance" begins with producers like Kechribari and Kamara creating artisanal, natural versions of the traditional pine-resin wine.

2016-Present

The Golden Age

Explosion of natural wine bars in Athens (Santone, 7 Cliches, Heteroclito). Papras Bio Wines introduces ancestral method sparkling from Mount Olympus. Iliana Malihin revives ancient Vidiano vines in Crete. Greek natural wines gain international recognition at RAW WINE fairs worldwide.

"Let nature be the winemaker. We are merely guardians of the process, allowing the vineyard to express its truth through indigenous yeasts and zero intervention." — Dimitrios Kioutsoukis, Kamara Estate

Volcanic Islands, Mountain Slopes & Ancient Soils

The diverse terroirs shaping Greek natural wine

🌋 Santorini & The Cyclades

Volcanic caldera islands with soils of pumice, volcanic ash, and lava rock. No irrigation needed—the porous volcanic soil retains moisture from sea mists. Ungrafted vines (phylloxera never reached the island) trained in "kouloura" baskets. Extreme diurnal temperature variation. Assyrtiko achieves razor-sharp acidity and saline minerality here.

🏔️ Naoussa & Goumenissa

Mountainous Macedonia in northern Greece, 150-400m elevation. Limestone and clay-loam soils. Xinomavro thrives in these continental conditions with cold winters and warm summers. The region produces structured, tannic reds often compared to Nebbiolo. Home to Greece's most established natural wine producers.

🫒 Crete

Mediterranean's largest island with diverse microclimates. Liatiko (indigenous red) dates to 3rd century BC. Vidiano (white) nearly extinct 20 years ago, now revived. Calcareous soils at altitude (600-900m) provide freshness despite southern latitude. Thrapsathiri and Plyto are rare ancient varieties being revived by natural producers.

🏺 Peloponnese

Achaia (northern Peloponnese) features cool mountain vineyards. Sant'Or winery practices Demeter-certified biodynamics here, reviving ancient Santameriana grapes. Nemea produces Agiorgitiko from limestone soils. Mantineia is home to Moschofilero at 600m elevation. The region connects ancient Mycenaean wine culture with modern natural practices.

🌊 Kefalonia & The Ionian

Robola (white grape) thrives on limestone soils at altitude on this Ionian island. Humid climate requires careful organic management. Sclavos Winery maintains ungrafted vines planted in 1919. The maritime influence creates wines of elegance and salinity distinct from Aegean styles.

🍇 Mount Olympus

Thessaly region with vineyards on the slopes of Mount Olympus ( mythical home of the gods). Papras Bio Wines cultivates Black Muscat and Roditis at altitude. Cool nights and warm days create aromatic complexity. The region is becoming known for ancestral method sparkling wines.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Santorini (PDO)	Mediterranean, windy, arid	Volcanic pumice, lava	Mineral, saline, high acid whites
Naoussa (PDO)	Continental, alpine influence	Limestone, clay-loam	Structured, tannic Xinomavro reds
Goumenissa (PDO)	Continental, mountainous	Sandy clay, schist	Elegant Xinomavro, Limnio blends
Crete (PGI)	Mediterranean, mountainous	Calcareous, limestone	Aromatic Vidiano, elegant Liatiko
Kefalonia (PDO)	Maritime, humid	High-altitude limestone	Mineral Robola, saline whites

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining Greek natural wine

Macedonia – The Heartland of Natural Wine

Periklis & Stergios Tatsis

Tatsis Winery, Goumenissa, Macedonia

Third-generation brothers who transformed their family's winery into Greece's first certified organic (1997) and biodynamic (Demeter 2002) estate. Located in Goumenissa (PDO), they cultivate Xinomavro, Limnio, and Roditis on clay and sandy loam soils. Pioneers of natural winemaking in Greece, they use indigenous yeasts, minimal sulfur, and traditional methods. Their "Roditis Orange" is a benchmark for Greek orange wines—30 days skin contact, 12 months barrel aging, unfiltered. Also produce fresh Limnio reds and Xinomavro structured like Nebbiolo. Philosophy: "Live and breathe in the vineyard 24/7."

First Organic Certified Demeter Biodynamic Orange Wine Pioneer 3rd Generation

Apostolos Thymiopoulos

Thymiopoulos Vineyards, Naoussa, Macedonia

The rising star of Naoussa and Xinomavro specialist. Practices organic farming with biodynamic principles in the Fytia area at 500m elevation. Known for "Earth & Sky"—a blend of the best parcels from 45-year-old Xinomavro vines. Also produces "Young Vines" (fruit-forward), "Alta" (single vineyard), and the legendary "Blanc de Rose Cuvee R"—a unique white wine made from Xinomavro with 6 years on lees. His wines are low sulfite, unfiltered, and express the tomato, olive, and red fruit character of Xinomavro. Decanter Gold medalist.

Xinomavro Specialist Organic/Biodynamic Decanter Gold Low Sulfite

Thomas Ligas & Family

Domaine Ligas, Pella, Macedonia

Founded in 1985 in the shadow of Mount Paiko, now run by Thomas with children Meli and Jason. Focus on reviving rare varieties like Kydonitsa (quince-scented white) and producing natural wines with zero added sulfur. Uses stainless steel, concrete, oak, and amphora. Experimental approach includes "Spira" (blanc de noir Xinomavro), skin-contact Roditis, and "Limniona Sauvage Bleu" (no sulfur red). Practicing permaculture and regenerative agriculture since 2007. Indigenous yeast fermentation, unfined, unfiltered. Leading voice in Greece's zero-sulfur movement.

Zero Sulfur Rare Varieties Permaculture Amphora

Thessaloniki & Mount Olympus

Dimitrios Kioutsoukis & Family

Kamara Estate, Oraiokastro, Thessaloniki

Former chemical engineer who planted 11 hectares in 2010 near Thessaloniki with Greek varieties (Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Roditis, Xinomavro). Converted to natural winemaking in 2015 with daughter Stavroula (agronomist). All wines are naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts, zero additives, unfiltered, and zero sulfur added at bottling. Famous for "Kamara Pure Retsina"—natural retsina with Roditis-Assyrtiko blend and Aleppo pine resin from Evia. Also produces "Nimbus" series (cloudy natural wines), "Stalisma" (rosé and white), and "Shadow Play" (Xinomavro red). Philosophical approach: "Let nature be the winemaker."

Zero Sulfur Natural Retsina Indigenous Yeasts Unfiltered

Stergios Papras

Papras Bio Wines, Tyrnavos, Thessaly

Organic since 1990 on the slopes of Mount Olympus (mythical home of the gods). Specializes in Black Muscat of Tyrnavos (rare clone) and Roditis. Produces "Pleiades"—an orange wine from Roditis with skin contact, and "Melanthia"—ancestral method semi-sparkling rosé from Black Muscat. Also makes "Oreads" (mountain nymphs) rosé and "Dryads" red. Low sulfites (30-40mg/L), wild fermentation, unfined/unfiltered. Focus on mountain terroir expression and traditional methods like cold extraction and skin contact.

Since 1990 Mount Olympus Ancestral Method Black Muscat

The Islands – Volcanic & Ionian

Vladi Sclavos

Sclavos Wines, Lixouri, Kefalonia

Fourth-generation winemaker (family originally from Odessa, returned 1919) managing ungrafted vines planted in 1919 on the Paliki peninsula. Certified organic and biodynamic (homeodynamic). Old vine Robola, Mavrodaphne, Vostilidi, and Tsaousi at altitudes up to 800m. All wines spontaneous fermentation, unfiltered, minimal sulfites only when necessary. "Metagitnion" (Goustolidi from 100-year-old vines, aged 1 year in oak) and "Alchymiste" are benchmarks. Maritime-influenced wines with high acidity and mineral character. Described as "guru of natural wine" in Greece.

Ungrafted Vines 1919 Plantings Biodynamic 4th Generation

Haridimos Hatzidakis (Family)

Hatzidakis Winery, Santorini

Established 1997 by Haridimos and Konstantina Hatzidakis, who restored a 1950s abandoned vineyard. Now run by the family after Haridimos's passing (2017). The only certified organic grower on Santorini. 40 hectares across various altitudes and microclimates. Ungrafted Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Mavrotragano on volcanic soils. Traditional oak aging for some wines. "Pure Santorini" from 200+ year-old vines in Pyrgos and Megalochori is a natural wine benchmark—fermented in concrete, 14 months on lees, no additives. Focus on expressing the volcanic terroir's mineral and saline character.

Santorini Organic Volcanic Soils Ungrafted 200+ Year Vines

Panagiotis Dimitropoulos

Sant'Or, Santomeri, Achaia (Peloponnese)

Founded 2007 in Santomeri village at foothills of Mount Skolli. First Demeter-certified biodynamic winery in Greece (2019). Revived the rare Santameriana grape (nearly extinct after phylloxera), producing the only varietal wines from this thin-skinned white grape. Also makes "Santomeri" (Roditis-Moscato blend), "Orange Nature" (skin-contact), and red blends. 20,000 bottles annual production. Amphora aging, minimal intervention, wild yeasts. Focus on local varieties and ancient methods including foot-treading.

First Demeter Greece Santameriana Revival Amphora Biodynamic

Crete – Ancient Origins

Yiannis & Natassa Economou

Domaine Economou, Ziros Plateau, Crete

Visionary winemaker on the high-altitude Ziros plateau (eastern Crete) working with ungrafted, organically grown indigenous varieties. Produces rare Thrapsathiri (Cretan white) aged with oxidation like a "magician," and "Antigone" red blend. Extremely low intervention, native yeasts, releases wines with considerable age. Assyrtiko planted at altitude shows different expression than Santorini—richer, more honeyed. The wines are singular, defying logic with their aging potential and complexity. One of Greece's most respected natural wine artisans.

High Altitude Ungrafted Oxidative Style Rare Varieties

Iliana Malihin

Melampes, Rethymno, Crete

Young winemaker (founded 2019) reviving old mountain vineyards (600-900m) in Rethymno. Focus on Vidiano from 90-140+ year-old self-rooted vines on steep terraces. Organic dry farming, manual cultivation. Two expressions: "Old Vines" (dense, complex) and "Young Vines" (aromatic, lively). Also working with other mountain villages (Fourfoura, Vatos) to preserve ancient vineyards. Minimal intervention, native yeasts, low sulfites, no clarification. Represents the new generation of Greek natural winemakers preserving heritage.

Old Vines Mountain Viticulture Vidiano Revival New Generation

Manolis Thalassinos

Thalassinos Winery, Heraklion, Crete

Small-scale natural producer focusing on Vidiano skin-contact ("Little Troublemaker") and Moscato Spinas amphora aging ("Tyto Alba"). Also produces Liatiko reds and Syrah aged in amphora. Wild fermented, unfined, unfiltered, low sulfites (30-60mg/L). Farm winery offering tastings and local food pairings. Represents the artisanal side of Cretan natural wine with very small productions (400-2,500 bottles per wine).

Skin Contact Amphora Micro-Production Farm Winery

"As long as there is healthy fruit, we have no reason to add anything. The wine knows what to do if we let it." — Periklis Tatsis, Tatsis Winery

The Grapes of Natural Greece

Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Vidiano & ancient treasures

White Variety • The Volcanic Star

Assyrtiko

Greece's most famous white grape, indigenous to Santorini but now planted throughout Greece. Thick-skinned, high-acid, mineral-driven. On volcanic soils produces wines with saline, citrus, and stone fruit character with remarkable aging potential.

Style: Mineral, high acid, saline, ageworthy
Natural Wine Role: Orange wines, skin-contact, zero sulfur
Top Producers: Hatzidakis, Karamolegos, Kamara
Regions: Santorini, Crete, Macedonia
Notable: Ungrafted vines on Santorini (phylloxera-free)

Red Variety • The Greek Nebbiolo

Xinomavro

The noble red of northern Greece (Naoussa, Goumenissa, Amyndeon). High tannin, high acid, pale color. Aromas of tomato, olive, red fruit, roses, and spice. Ages beautifully, developing complex tertiary notes. Often compared to Barolo.

Style: Structured, tannic, aromatic, age-worthy
Natural Wine Role: Zero sulfur expressions, blanc de noir
Top Producers: Thymiopoulos, Tatsis, Ligas
Regions: Naoussa, Goumenissa, Macedonia
Notable: 12% of total Greek plantings but rising fast

White Variety • The Cretan Revival

Vidiano

Ancient Cretan variety nearly extinct 20 years ago, now revived by young natural winemakers. Rich, textural, aromatic with apricot, honey, and herbal notes. Thrives in Crete's mountain vineyards at altitude (600m+).

Style: Textural, aromatic, stone fruit, herbal
Natural Wine Role: Skin-contact orange wines
Top Producers: Iliana Malihin, Thalassinos, Douloufakis
Regions: Rethymno, Heraklion (Crete)
Notable: Self-rooted old vines (90-140 years)

More Indigenous Treasures

Other native Greek varieties in natural wine

Moschofilero: Pink-skinned aromatic white from Mantineia (Peloponnese). Intense floral, rose, lemon zest. Troupis Winery makes "Hoof & Lur" orange version.

Liatiko: Ancient Cretan red (3rd century BC). Light color, red fruit, herbal, elegant tannins. Natural winemakers use short maceration for freshness.

Roditis: Pink-skinned white grown throughout Greece. Natural producers use it for orange wines (Tatsis, Papras) with extended skin contact.

Malagousia: Aromatic white revived in the 1970s. Stone fruit, jasmine, herbal. Often blended with Assyrtiko or alone in natural expressions.

Limnio: Ancient red from Lemnos island (mentioned by Aristotle). Light, herbal, silky tannins. Tatsis produces a benchmark natural version.

Robola: High-acid white from Kefalonia's limestone soils. Mineral, citrus, almond. Sclavos works with 100-year-old ungrafted vines.

Santameriana: Rare white from Achaia (Peloponnese) nearly extinct, revived by Sant'Or. Thin-skinned, aromatic, honeyed texture.

Food Pairing & Greek Cuisine

Natural wine meets Mediterranean gastronomy

Pairings for Assyrtiko

Volcanic whites and orange wines

Seafood: Grilled octopus, fried calamari, sea urchin
Mezes: Tzatziki, fava, dolmadakia
Vegetables: Briam (roasted vegetables), fasolakia
Cheeses: Feta, manouri, aged graviera
Fried: Whitebait, eggplant chips, tomato fritters
Local match: Assyrtiko with Santorini tomatoes

Pairings for Xinomavro

Structured reds from Naoussa

Grilled meats: Paidakia (lamb chops), souvlaki
Stews: Kokkinisto, beef stifado
Game: Wild boar, hare stifado
Mushrooms: Mushroom risotto, grilled portobello
Aged cheeses: Kefalotyri, aged goat cheese
Local match: Xinomavro with boubari (sausage)

Greek Wine Traditions

Ancient customs and modern revival

Greece's wine culture is deeply rooted in ancient symposium traditions where wine was mixed with water and consumed with philosophical discourse. The Retsina tradition—adding Aleppo pine resin to wine—dates to ancient preservation methods and is being revived by natural winemakers (Kamara, Kechribari) as an artisanal product rather than industrial commodity. Tsipouro (pomace spirit) remains a staple of Macedonian culture. Natural winemakers are reviving amphora aging (Thalassinos, Ligas, Sant'Or), connecting to Minoan traditions of clay vessel fermentation. The concept of kefi (joyful spirit) remains central—wine is for celebration, food, and community, never consumed alone.

Visiting Natural Greece

From Santorini's caldera to Naoussa's mountains

🌋 Santorini

Visit Hatzidakis Winery (organic, ungrafted vines) and Artemis Karamolegos in Pyrgos. Tour vineyards trained in "kouloura" baskets. Combine with sunset in Oia and archaeological site of Akrotiri. Best time: May-June or September-October (avoid August crowds).

🏔️ Naoussa & Goumenissa

Base in Naoussa town (Macedonia). Visit Thymiopoulos Vineyards in Fytia and Tatsis Winery in Goumenissa (45 min north). Combine with Vergina archaeological site (royal tombs) and Mount Vermion. Mountain roads require careful driving.

🏝️ Kefalonia

Visit Sclavos Winery in Lixouri (Paliki peninsula). Combine with Melissani Cave and Myrtos Beach. The winery maintains 1919 ungrafted vineyards. Tastings available by appointment. Ferry from Killini (mainland) or fly from Athens.

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Thessaloniki: Arrive, explore the city's food markets (Modiano), dinner at natural wine bar. Overnight Thessaloniki.

Day 2 - Thessaloniki Region: Morning visit to Kamara Estate (Oraiokastro) for natural Retsina tasting. Afternoon at Papras Bio Wines (Mount Olympus slopes). Overnight Thessaloniki.

Day 3 - Goumenissa: Visit Tatsis Winery—Greece's first organic/biodynamic producer. Taste orange Roditis and Xinomavro. Overnight in Naoussa.

Day 4 - Naoussa: Morning at Thymiopoulos Vineyards for Xinomavro masterclass. Afternoon at Domaine Ligas (Pella) for zero-sulfur wines. Overnight Naoussa.

Day 5 - Delphi & Peloponnese: Drive to Achaia (4 hours). Visit Sant'Or (Santomeri) for biodynamic Santameriana. Overnight in Patras or mountain village.

Day 6 - Athens: Drive to Athens (2.5 hours). Visit natural wine bars (Santone, 7 Cliches) for tasting of Greek natural wines from across the country. Overnight Athens.

Day 7 - Santorini: Ferry or fly to Santorini. Visit Hatzidakis Winery (organic Assyrtiko from 200-year-old vines). Sunset dinner with local wines. Overnight Santorini.

Day 8 - Santorini: Visit Artemis Karamolegos and vineyard tour with "kouloura" basket vines. Beach time at Red Beach. Overnight Santorini.

Day 9 - Crete: Fly to Heraklion. Visit Thalassinos Winery for Vidiano orange wine. Drive to Rethymno region. Overnight Crete.

Day 10 - Crete: Visit Iliana Malihin in Melampes (mountain village) for old-vine Vidiano from 90-140 year-old vines. Return to Heraklion for departure.