Biodynamic by Intuition

The Hager family has been farming in Mollands — a small winegrowing village in the northern Kamptal, Lower Austria — for five generations. [^5^] Matthias grew up in the vines, absorbing the rhythms of the vineyard from childhood. He studied at the School of Oenology & Viticulture in Krems and spent several years working in the Wachau and Burgenland at larger commercial wineries before returning home. [^2^] But the conventional approach he inherited did not satisfy him. Around 2005, he began converting the estate to organic agriculture, and shortly thereafter embraced full biodynamic cultivation, becoming a certified Demeter member in 2008 — making him one of the youngest biodynamic winemakers in Austria at the time. [^3^] [^5^]

Taking the reins at 21 meant Matthias had to grow into his convictions quickly. The estate today comprises approximately 13 hectares of vineyards in and around Mollands, farmed without irrigation, without synthetic chemicals, and with a deep, almost obsessive attention to the interplay between flora, fauna, and vine. [^3^] [^5^] He is known for his encyclopaedic knowledge of plants and insects — not as a winemaker who happens to farm biodynamically, but as a farmer who happens to make wine. This distinction matters: for Matthias, the cellar is an extension of the vineyard, not a corrective for it.

The northern Kamptal is a region of striking geological diversity. Where the southern Kamptal is dominated by loess, the northern sector around Mollands offers everything from wind-deposited loess and heavy clay to crystalline primary rock — mica schist and gneiss — that speaks of ancient tectonic pressure. [^1^] [^3^] Cool winds from the Waldviertel forest and pronounced diurnal temperature shifts preserve acidity and aromatic intensity, while the Pannonian influence from the east provides enough warmth for full phenolic ripeness. [^5^] It is a climate of tension — and Matthias has built his entire philosophy around expressing that tension rather than resolving it.

In the cellar, Matthias practices what the vineyard demands: minimal intervention, maximum transparency. All fermentations are spontaneous, relying solely on the indigenous yeasts that have colonised his biodynamic vineyards. [^5^] This is not a gimmick — it is a logical extension of his farming philosophy. If the vineyard is healthy and diverse, the microbial population will be healthy and diverse, and the wine will carry that complexity into the bottle. For whites, Matthias often allows partial skin contact or maceration depending on the vintage character, adding subtle phenolic texture and broadening the aromatic palette without losing freshness. [^5^]

Reds — primarily Zweigelt and Blauburger — are handled with natural fermentation, gentle extraction, and site-specific treatment. [^5^] Wines are aged on fine lees, frequently in neutral or older oak or inert vessels, with minimal stirring. This builds texture and mouthfeel without the influence of new wood or aggressive manipulation. No fining or filtration is applied when possible. Sulfur additions are kept to an absolute minimum and only used when necessary for stability — a principle that makes the zero-sulfur Red Line possible only in the cleanest, most balanced vintages. [^1^] [^5^]

Matthias also produces Pet-Nat (pétillant naturel / ancestral method sparkling wines) — a style that suits his philosophy perfectly. [^5^] Using natural fermentation, limited or zero sulfur, and minimal intervention in bottling, these sparkling wines capture the effervescent energy of the Kamptal in its most unadorned form. The result is a portfolio that ranges from crisp, crystalline Grüner Veltliner to amber-hued skin-contact Riesling to cloudy, gently sparkling Pet-Nat — all united by a single thread: the refusal to adapt the wine to international tastes. What grows in Mollands is what goes into the bottle.