Hirotake Ooka – La Grande Colline Japon (Okayama)

Hirotake Ooka is a pioneer of natural winemaking in Japan, known for his minimalist philosophy and experimentation with both native and European grape varieties. Originally from Tokyo, Ooka studied chemistry before moving to France, where he founded Domaine de la Grande Colline in Cornas. Years later, he returned to Japan to establish La Grande Colline Japon in Okayama, applying the same biodynamic and natural methods to Japanese terroir.
His vineyards are farmed without pesticides or herbicides, and he works with grapes such as Shokoshi, Yama-budo, and Muscat d’Alexandrie.

Fermentations are spontaneous, and the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, with minimal intervention.
Ooka’s approach reflects both French natural wine tradition and the Japanese philosophy of harmony with nature. His wines and experimental fruit ferments are praised for their purity, energy, and subtle expression of place.

Winemaking Philosophy

Ooka's winemaking approach is characterized by an uncompromising dedication to natural wine and minimal intervention.

  • Natural/Additive-Free Wine: He strives to produce additive-free wine and uses natural fermentation techniques (spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts).

  • "Do-Nothing" Farming Influence: His methods are strongly inspired by the farming philosophy of late Japanese farmer and philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka, often called "do-nothing farming." This hands-off viticultural style historically involved forgoing treatments, including those allowed in organic viticulture, though he learned he sometimes needs to spray when necessary after an issue with rot in 2013 in his French vineyard. He aims to work with the cycles of nature and refrain from the use of pesticides.

Wines and Grape Varieties

The winery in Okayama produces a variety of wines, transforming the conventional concept of Japanese wine.

  • Shokoshi: A red wine made with a grape unique to Japan. One bottling, the La Grande Colline Japon Syokoshi 2020, is described as being made from 90% Syokoshi and 10% Fuji-no-Yume, both of which are Japan hybrid grape varieties.

  • Le Canon Muscat d'Alexandrie: A white wine made using the Muscat of Alexandria grape.

  • Other Varieties: He also makes wine from other local Japanese varieties like Yama Budo and European varieties like Syrah.

  • Non-Grape Beverage: Ooka also produces a unique gastronomic drink by pressing the entire Amanatsu citrus fruit (which resembles an orange) and allowing the must to ferment naturally.