Tokaj Treasures & Volcanic Soul
Hungary
From the volcanic hills of Somló to the loess terraces of Tokaj, discover how Hungarian natural winemakers are reviving centuries-old traditions with Furmint, Kékfrankos, and Kadarka—embracing biodynamic farming, amphora aging, and the pure expression of Central Europe's most diverse wine country
The Crossroads of European Wine
Where sweet Tokaj meets volcanic whites and elegant reds
Hungary—landlocked yet defined by water, from Lake Balaton to the Danube—possesses one of Europe's most diverse and historically significant wine cultures. While Tokaji Aszú has been celebrated since the 18th century as the "wine of kings, king of wines" (Louis XIV), the country's natural wine movement is writing a new chapter that extends far beyond sweet dessert wines.
This guide focuses on the pioneers of Hungarian natural wine—producers who work across 22 distinct wine regions with wildly different terroirs. Bencze Birtok crafts some of Europe's most exciting natural wines from volcanic Somló. Gábor Karner has eliminated all additives (even sulfur) since 2017 in the Mátra foothills. Krisztina Csetvei experiments with amphora-aged Ezerjó in Mór. Franz Weninger bridges Austria and Hungary with biodynamic Kékfrankos from Sopron.
What unites them is a commitment to Hungary's indigenous varieties—Furmint and Hárslevelű in Tokaj, Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) in Eger and Sopron, the ancient Kadarka brought by Serbian settlers, and unique grapes like Juhfark and Ezerjó. These varieties, grown on volcanic, loess, and limestone soils with minimal chemical intervention, express a Hungary that is simultaneously ancient and cutting-edge.
Key Facts
- Location: Central Europe, Carpathian Basin
- History: 1,000+ years (Tokaj since 1700s)
- Key Regions: Tokaj, Eger, Balaton, Mátra, Villány
- Main Grapes: Furmint, Kékfrankos, Olaszrizling, Kadarka
- Method: Biodynamic, amphora, zero sulfur, spontaneous
- Style: Volcanic minerality, high acid, indigenous
- Notable: First appellation system (Tokaj, 1737)
From Roman Pannonia to the New Wave
2,000 years of Hungarian wine evolution
Roman Foundations
Romans introduce viticulture to the province of Pannonia (western Hungary). The first vineyards are planted along the Danube and Lake Balaton. Ancient indigenous varieties begin their evolution in the Carpathian Basin's unique climate.
Tokaj Protection
The Habsburg Emperor establishes the world's first protected wine appellation system in Tokaj, delimiting the region and its classification system. Tokaji Aszú becomes the world's most famous sweet wine, prized by Russian tsars and European royalty. Louis XIV declares it "the wine of kings, king of wines."
Kadarka Arrives
Serbian settlers fleeing Ottoman invasions bring Kadarka to Hungary, introducing the country's first significant red grape. Kadarka becomes the dominant variety, making Hungary a red wine nation. The legend of Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) is born when defenders of Eger fortress drink red wine before battle.
Communist Era
State-controlled wine production focuses on quantity over quality. Indigenous varieties are replaced with high-yielding international grapes. Traditional methods are abandoned for industrial production. The reputation of Hungarian wine suffers internationally.
Post-Communist Revival
Privatization returns vineyards to families. Foreign investment arrives (Royal Tokaji, Oremus). Young winemakers travel abroad to learn modern techniques while rediscovering indigenous varieties. The focus shifts back to quality.
Natural Wine Revolution
Gábor Karner and others begin eliminating sulfur and additives entirely. Bencze Birtok gains international recognition for volcanic natural wines. Krisztina Csetvei experiments with amphora. The "New Hungarian Wine" movement embraces organic, biodynamic, and natural methods while focusing on indigenous grapes. Hungary becomes a hotbed of natural wine experimentation.
Volcanic, Loess & Limestone
The six distinct terroirs of Hungarian wine
🌋 Tokaj
Located in northeastern Hungary at the foothills of the Carpathians. Volcanic soil from ancient volcanoes (over 400 once active) mixed with loess. Two rivers (Tisza and Bodrog) create morning mist essential for noble rot (botrytis). UNESCO World Heritage site. Home to Furmint, Hárslevelű, and the legendary Aszú wines. The first delimited wine region in the world (1737).
🏰 Eger
Baroque city in northern Hungary at the foot of the Bükk Mountains. Volcanic rhyolite tuff and andesite soils. Cool continental climate with high diurnal temperature variation. Famous for Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) blend and Egri Csillag (white blend). The Nagy-Eged hill (501m) produces the region's finest wines from limestone soils.
🏔️ Somló
Unique extinct volcanic mountain in western Hungary. The "basalt giant" creates wines with extreme minerality and high acid. Juhfark (sheep's tail) grape is indigenous here. Tiny region (600 hectares) with distinctive smoky, flinty character. Wines are said to guarantee male offspring when consumed on wedding nights—hence called "fertility wine."
🌊 Lake Balaton
Central Europe's largest lake creates a unique microclimate. Badacsony region on the north shore has volcanic basalt slopes. Olaszrizling (Graševina) thrives here with mineral, salty character. Perfect for natural orange wines with extended skin contact. Robert Gilvesy and others champion organic methods here.
🌾 Mátra
Mountainous region in northern Hungary with volcanic andesite and rhyolite tuff soils. Protected from cold northern winds by Mount Kékestető. Gábor Karner and the "Tőkések Mátra" (Handcraft Winemaking Circle) champion natural methods here. Focus on Kékfrankos and Olaszrizling with zero sulfur.
🍇 Villány
Southernmost wine region with sub-Mediterranean climate. Limestone and loess soils. Known for full-bodied reds including Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. Wassmann winery practices biodynamic farming here. Different character from cooler northern regions.
Key Natural Wine Regions
| Region | Climate | Soil | Natural Wine Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tokaj | Continental, misty | Volcanic, loess | Mineral, high acid, botrytis |
| Eger | Cool continental | Rhyolite tuff, limestone | Elegant, structured, spicy |
| Somló | Cool, windy | Basalt, volcanic | Smoky, mineral, flinty |
| Balaton | Lake-moderated | Basalt, volcanic | Salty, mineral, textured |
| Mátra | Cool, protected | Andesite, rhyolite | Pure, high acid, volcanic |
The Featured Producers
The pioneers defining Hungarian natural wine
Tokaj & the North – Volcanic Whites
Mátra & Mór – The Zero-Sulfur Revolution
Eger & Beyond – Reds and Blends
The Grapes of Natural Hungary
Furmint, Kékfrankos, Kadarka & indigenous treasures
Furmint
Hungary's most important white grape, covering Tokaj and beyond. Thick-skinned, late-ripening, high acid. Makes everything from bone-dry minerally whites to the world's greatest sweet wines (Tokaji Aszú). Volcanic soils give distinctive smokiness and minerality.
- Style: High acid, mineral, smoky, age-worthy
- Natural Wine Role: Dry styles, skin-contact, amphora
- Top Producers: Homonna, Szepsy, Karner
- Regions: Tokaj, Somló, Eger
- Notable: Base of Tokaji Aszú
Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch)
The noble red of Sopron and Eger, called Blaufränkisch in Austria. Late-ripening, high acid, elegant tannins. Aromas of sour cherry, black pepper, and spice. The spine of Egri Bikavér blends. Franz Weninger makes benchmark expressions.
- Style: Elegant, spicy, high acid, medium body
- Natural Wine Role: Zero sulfur reds, single vineyard
- Top Producers: Weninger, Karner, Bukolyi
- Regions: Sopron, Eger, Mátra
- Notable: Compulsory in Bikavér blends
Kadarka
One of Europe's oldest varieties, brought to Hungary by Serbian settlers in 16th century. Thin skin, pale color, light body. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, paprika, and black pepper. Often compared to Pinot Noir. Nearly extinct during communism, now revived by natural winemakers.
- Style: Light, fruity, spicy, low tannin
- Natural Wine Role: Glou-glou reds, carbonic
- Top Producers: Heimann, St. Andrea, Gál Tibor
- Regions: Szekszárd, Eger
- Notable: Key component in Bikavér
More Indigenous Treasures
Hárslevelű: "Linden leaf" – aromatic white from Tokaj. Honeyed, floral, mineral. Often blended with Furmint. Bencze Birtok makes excellent expressions.
Juhfark: "Sheep's tail" – indigenous to Somló. Thick clusters, volcanic minerality, smoky, flinty. Said to guarantee male offspring when consumed on wedding nights.
Ezerjó: "Thousand good things" – traditional white from Mór. Light, crisp, citrus. Csetvei ages in amphora for added texture.
Olaszrizling (Graševina): Most planted white in Hungary, also called Welschriesling. Neutral but expressive of terroir. Karner makes zero-sulfur amber versions.
Leányka: "Girl" – traditional Eger white, out of fashion but championed by natural producers like Nyolcas. Light, floral, delicate.
Szürkebarát: Hungarian Pinot Gris, pink-skinned. Csetvei uses in SunMoonStar blend. Can make structured, textural wines.
Food Pairing & Hungarian Cuisine
Natural wine meets goulash, paprikás, and lake fish
Pairings for Kékfrankos
- Goulash: Traditional beef soup with paprika
- Paprikás csirke: Chicken paprikash with dumplings
- Grilled meats: Kolbász (sausage), pork chops
- Game: Venison, wild boar stews
- Local match: Mangalica pork (curly-haired pig)
Pairings for Dry Furmint
- Lake fish: Fogas (pike perch) from Balaton
- Chicken: Roasted or grilled with herbs
- Vegetable dishes: Lecsó (pepper-tomato stew)
- Cheese: Túró (fresh cheese), aged trappista
- Local match: Halászlé (fisherman's soup)
Hungarian Wine Traditions
Hungary's wine culture is deeply intertwined with its cuisine and history. Tokaji Aszú—the legendary sweet wine made from botrytized grapes—has been Hungary's most famous export for centuries, prized by Russian tsars and European royalty. The "puttonyos" system (3-6 puttonyos) indicates sweetness levels. Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) is the legendary red blend from Eger, named for the story of defenders drinking red wine before battle against the Ottomans. Modern regulations require Kékfrankos as the base with at least 3 other varieties. Fröccs (wine spritzer) is the everyday drink—white wine mixed with sparkling water. Natural winemakers are reviving amphora (qvevri) aging, especially in Tokaj and Mór, inspired by Georgian traditions. The "New Hungarian Wine" movement emphasizes indigenous varieties, organic farming, and natural methods while respecting the country's 1,000-year winemaking heritage.
Visiting Natural Hungary
From Tokaj's cellars to Somló's volcanic slopes
🍇 Tokaj
Base in Mád or Tokaj town. Visit Homonna for natural Furmint and Aszú. Szepsy or Royal Tokaji for traditional styles. Explore labyrinthine cellars carved into volcanic rock. Combine with Juliet Victor (modern luxury winery). Best time: September (harvest) or spring.
🌋 Somló
Visit Bencze Birtok for volcanic Juhfark and natural wines. The tiny mountain has just 600 hectares. Combine with Krisztina Csetvei's amphora wines (she works here too). Stark, otherworldly landscape with basalt columns. Best time: May-September.
🌊 Lake Balaton
Base in Badacsony or Balatonfüred. Visit Gilvesy (organic volcanic whites) and Szászi Birtok (pioneer organic). Homola (Attila Homonna's project). Take a ferry across the lake. Combine with swimming and beach time. Best time: June-August.
10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary
Day 1 - Budapest: Arrive, explore natural wine bars (Napolyi, VinoWino). Overnight Budapest.
Day 2 - Eger: Drive to Eger (1.5 hours). Visit Tibor Gál (historic cellars), Nyolcas (natural Leányka), or Bukolyi (organic Nagy-Eged). Explore baroque town. Overnight Eger.
Day 3 - Mátra: Drive to Szűcsi. Visit Karner Gábor & Fanni (zero sulfur, volcanic Kékfrankos). Meet the "happiness fairies" winemaker. Overnight Mátra region.
Day 4 - Mór: Visit Csetvei Cellar (Krisztina's amphora Ezerjó, SunMoonStar blend). See the custom ceramic amphorae. Overnight Mór.
Day 5 - Somló: Drive to Somló mountain. Visit Bencze Birtok (volcanic natural wines, Juhfark). Stark volcanic landscape. Overnight near Somló.
Day 6 - Badacsony: Drive to Lake Balaton. Visit Gilvesy (organic Olaszrizling) and Szászi Birtok. Swim in Balaton. Overnight Badacsony.
Day 7 - Tokaj: Drive to Tokaj (4 hours). Visit Homonna (natural Furmint). Overnight Mád.
Day 8 - Tokaj: Cellar visits in labyrinthine volcanic cellars. Szepsy or Royal Tokaji for traditional Aszú. Juliet Victor for modern interpretation. Overnight Mád.
Day 9 - Sopron: Drive to Sopron (3 hours). Visit Franz Weninger (biodynamic, cross-border Kékfrankos). Medieval town center. Overnight Sopron.
Day 10 - Budapest: Return to Budapest (2 hours). Final tastings and shopping. Departure.